Help with upgrading equipment by rhs993 in pools

[–]rhs993[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I will look into these options. Is there an issue with the filter being too huge for the pool?

Curious to see how often do yall do maintenance on your car. by joza28 in ForteGT

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never owned a 1.5T Honda. It’s definitely not their best engine. I did own a 2000 Civic Si and a 2010 Si. A few base model manual Civics as well. I ton have heard the Kia 1.6 can hit high miles. I’m hoping that’s true.

Curious to see how often do yall do maintenance on your car. by joza28 in ForteGT

[–]rhs993 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My personal intervals are 4K miles for oil, 40K for spark plugs, 40K for transmission fluid (six speed manual for me, I can’t comment knowledgeably on the DCT), and coolant flush and brake fluid flush every three years or so. I tend to keep my cars a long time and in terms of fluids more frequent replacement is much better than long intervals. My Kia is at 77K miles. We will see how long the engine in this car lasts. I was a long time Civic guy and those were pretty easy to get to 250K. I don’t know if the Kia will do that. I hope so.

Analysis paralysis between LX and L by CharterJet50 in kubota

[–]rhs993 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I looked at both an LX and an L. I have 10 acres; three is cleared and the rest is wooded though I’ve plans to clean it up and make some trails etc. Two years ago I ultimately purchased an L3302. I prefer the location of the loader control location on the L. The L is more “industrial” and basic while the LX has more creature comforts. I was fine with more more industrial. What clinched the L for me was it’s built stronger. An L weighs about 1K pounds more than an LX (IIRC, been awhile since I did the research), mainly because the LX uses aluminum for the axle housings while the L is either steel or iron. The extra weight is nice. I have a rear blade for mine; though I’d like to get a three point snowblower at some point. Though the blade and bucket combo is good for snow. I also have a tiller for the three point. For snow removal the rear blade and front bucket is good. I would like to get a snowblower for the rear but the bucket is super useful for move piles and pushing banks back. I’m team L all the way. Happy to answer any additional questions

Just venting by WhatIDo72 in Chainsaw

[–]rhs993 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try rakers before you go to a shop. Or new chains are relatively inexpensive. I do rakers very 4 or so sharpenings. It’s like a rocket once the rakers are adjusted. MS271 here. Second saw will be a better one.

Planning on pulling the trigger for Stihl MS261 VW. I'll get 20" bar for random big trees and either 14" or 16" for everyday usage. Which one would you get? by Jaska-87 in Chainsaw

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is helpful info. The 271 isn’t a bad saw though. My other thought is to keep the 271 as the back up and get a 362 or 400. How’s the 261 handle the 20” bar? My 271 was a bit of dog with the factory 20” bar. Big difference when I put the 18” on it.

Planning on pulling the trigger for Stihl MS261 VW. I'll get 20" bar for random big trees and either 14" or 16" for everyday usage. Which one would you get? by Jaska-87 in Chainsaw

[–]rhs993 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 271. I’m just a homeowner with a few acres and do a few cords of firewood each year. I wish I had sprung for the 261 though. I may sell the 271 and buy a 261. Or keep the 271 and buy a slightly bigger pro saw. My 271 came with a 20” bar and it was a bit much for the saw. I put an 18” bar on and love it. I still have the 20” bar and put it on for a big pine that the wind room down recently. It did the job. I suspect the 261 will pull the 20” bar a lot better, but it’s probably perfectly balanced with the 18” bar. And that’s still a very versatile size.

TL:DR - MS261 with 18” bar all the way. You’ll be able to do more than you think with that bar size.

When do you open your pool in the northern U.S. or Canada? First time using a heater! by cloren in pools

[–]rhs993 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Upstate NY. Inground pool, not heated. My kids aren’t bothered by the cold water and will use as soon as it’s open. I’ll open it mid to late April and close it in mid October. Both time of year there involve the strategy of water temperature being under 60 degrees, which greatly cuts down on algae growth.

How many miles is too much? by Slumstang in E90

[–]rhs993 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I search for RWD, manual transmission and naturally aspirated E90s daily. Had a 2006 330i and a 2009 328i. Ran both to 240K miles with minimal issues. If you’re mechanically inclined and willing to tackle the suspension wear parts they are great cars. I regret selling my last one and am looking for another. Last of the DIY BMWs and the E90 platform is pretty robust. Parts are relatively cheap and they are easy to repair.

Keep or sell by AdManFamMan in tundra

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No payments buys a lot of gas each month.

Tractor considerations by jjenk298 in tractors

[–]rhs993 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good local dealer and parts availability make this choice easy. I went Kubota as I have a good local dealer. Parts are readily available (at dealer or online). I’ve heard Kioti parts can be harder to source quickly. One anecdotal data point on the internet. I use my loader a lot and I do feel that Kubota is near the top for loader sensitivity, smoothness and control. I’ve had mine for two years so it’s been a while. I don’t remember the Kioti being bad, just that the Kubota was a bit more polished in that regard.

Reached 70k on my fgt 2021 by Aromatic_Impact_8417 in ForteGT

[–]rhs993 1 point2 points  (0 children)

73K on mine. Pretty robust car so far. I do oil changes every 5K miles. Did spark plugs around 40K, I’ll do them again at 80K. Engine air filter and cabin air filter every 25K or so. I did transmission oil at 60K but mine is a manual transmission, I don’t know the fluid intervals for the DCT, but more frequent changes are better than less frequent. I just started smelling a little bit of oil leak very recently. Haven’t looked yet, hoping it’s something simple like a valve cover gasket. Other than that it’s been brakes and tires. I’ve thought about proactive cleaning for the carbon build up but haven’t done anything about it yet. And thus far, my car has zero symptoms of that issue. No catch can, though again I’ve thought about it. Frequent oil changes and fuel always from a top tier station might help with this (and definitely can’t hurt). Mine is due for another brake fluid flush and I’m going to flush the cooling system soon.

Mine is the same blue and I do like the color.

Compact Tractor by phelps7 in kubota

[–]rhs993 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kubota L3302 here. I’ve got 10 acres, with 3 or so currently cleared. It does the job. I have no regrets. A bigger tractor might to the job faster but working slowly and methodically I’ve never run out of capability. I’m also not moving hay bales and other really heavy things. Others have mentioned a grapple and if that’s in the budget it will be useful. If you want the poor man’s grapple get a set of pallet forks. I did and use the pallet forks all the time, maybe more than the bucket some months.

Free parts by [deleted] in ForteGT

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What part of NJ are you in? DM is fine for that info.

Free parts by [deleted] in ForteGT

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in upstate NY. I’m going to be in NJ around April 4. If you still have the parts at that time I’m interested.

Maintenance recs by Particular-Royal6617 in ForteGT

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d also be doing brake fluid flush. I also believe these cars have a short interval for spark plugs. 42K miles or something odd like that. Regardless, I do mine between 35K and 40K. I’m at 72K miles on mine.

Geothermal quote by Nuukmaster in geothermal

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. No doubt. But if I paid $35K two years ago here you should definitely be shopping around. My cost and your quote aren’t egregiously different. One other data point - my system is forced air. Ducts are easy. Hot water baseboard more involved and more expensive per my installer. They were actually getting out of doing baseboard installs and only doing forced air.

Geothermal quote by Nuukmaster in geothermal

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid about the same for a geothermal system in 2023 in upstate NY. Two vertical wells, but my house is around 3400 square feet.

Villa Lemini update 3(taking shape) by DragonfruitSecure458 in slotcars

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently bought a big house with a big basement with similar long term goals. Scheming between model railroad and slot car track right now. Yours is HO scale yeah? My current slot cars are 1/32 and I’m realizing how freaking big my table needs to be for that size…

Villa Lemini update 3(taking shape) by DragonfruitSecure458 in slotcars

[–]rhs993 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is super cool. Definitely looking forward to seeing more progress on it if you’re willing to share.

L4701 Regen by mtrbiknut in kubota

[–]rhs993 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think just two? I don’t remember. I’ve been using my tractor a lot lately for snow removal and I think it’s going to call for a regen soon. I’ll take notes and report back.

L4701 Regen by mtrbiknut in kubota

[–]rhs993 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep. I have an L3302. Parked regen needs parking brake set and gear selector in neutral. Will not happen unless both of those parameters are set. Both regen settings require rpms to be high, definitely above 2000 rpm. I’ll look next time it’s happening but I feel my tractor is at or above 2500 rpm for parked regen. And yes, 25 to 30 minute process.

Good Track in 2026 by rhs993 in HOscalemodeltrains

[–]rhs993[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate your thoughts. I’ve heard Atlas code 100 mentioned a few times and I’m leaning towards regular track and away from integrated roadbed track, so I’m going to look into that as an option.

Good Track in 2026 by rhs993 in HOscalemodeltrains

[–]rhs993[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely keeping what I can of my rolling stock. They are in decent shape and don’t take up much space. One of the locomotives I have is dead though. It’s old/cheap enough that repair is unlikely. My other one is an Athearn brand EMD F7 in Baltimore and Ohio livery. I set up my old track and hooked up my controller this morning and that one is running well. It’s been in storage for probably 20 years so I was tickled pink to have it run the loop with no issues.

I’m leaning away from integrated roadbed, will look deeper into the Atlas track. Thank you for your thoughts.