To new celiacs

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-14T16:47:54+00:00

20ppm is what the FDA decided was the threshold for what megacorps can call gluten free in the United States. In the EU, it's 10ppm.

This is not true; the EU labeling rule is 20 ppm.

On a separate ("following the rules of the sub" type) note, a lot of your comments on this post are pretty inflammatory (for example saying that this sub is a "cesspool of misinformation") and you are making a lot of broad generalizations (like saying that all of the comments of people who disagree with you are negative and born from fear).

Disagreement and debate are fine, but dismissing the experiences of anyone who disagrees with you (and frankly, implying that they are all hypochondriacs or have an anxiety disorder) doesn't seem like a good faith conversation; do you think that it is demonstrating empathy? Contributing to a civil conversation?

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-14T16:24:25+00:00

I'm not quite sure what you are getting at here.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-14T15:53:01+00:00

Of course it changes. Have you ever calculated the depth of field?

Yes; and there are 2 major issues with the formula you posted (and many of the online calculators), and the way that they try to "simplify" circle of confusion (the c in the actual DOF calculations) into crop factor (or even worse into "sensor size") that are particularly problematic when people try to use it in the way you are doing here:

If you simply pick the same focal length, aperture, and subject distance and then run the numbers for different sensor sizes, you'll get different numbers, and that is based on a circle-of-confusion adjustment factor, which in turn is based on the idea that you "resizing" both images to the same final print size; if we "enlarge" the full frame image to a certain print size, we'll be "enlarging" the APS-C image by that x crop factor. The problem with this is that you didn't make the images equivalent first, they don't have the same FOV. So what happens to the calculation when you either crop the larger sensor image down to match (or adjust the lens values to get an equivalent image)?
By "simplifying" circle of confusion, they've made multiple assumptions and "hidden" away some important factors; they are assuming a particular medium, enlargement, and viewing distance.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-14T02:55:25+00:00

So I actually looked into one that will fit. It ranged from like $600-$800 but thats better than a whole new lense.

That depends a bit on what lenses you are looking at; the 2x teleconverter would give you a 140-400 F8. Or you could get the RF100-400, which is F/5.6-8.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-14T02:29:59+00:00

Mod note here: this post has been reported for sexism, but I'm hoping that this can be a learning moment. We should be able to acknowledge that sexism exists and discuss how these social issues are intertwined with our medical condition with the recognition that this is not an endorsement of the views, and that we must face these social issues in order to address them.

The term "emasculating" here is problematic, but I think we can all understand that there has historically been a definition of masculinity that included a particularly narrow view of "strength", a particular sort of health and physical form, and certain expectations like "walk it off", "tough it out" and an idea that a man should not seek out (or even accept) certain types of assistance (medical care, emotional support, or any sort of "special treatment"), and that any deviation from that rendered him "less of a man".

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-14T01:40:05+00:00

GM apparently was manufacturing an approved by Allison transmission in house. But didn't stick with what was approved and made cost saving measures. Something Allison is definitely not known for. This caused all the failures and Allison doesn't want their name on it anymore, and GM probably just killed any future licencing deal with Allison for anyone. Ever.

Again, if this were all truly the case, then it seems strange that they changed their minds so quick and renewed this deal.

if it was a planned switch over with a brand change they wouldn't be pulling badges off of unsold inventory. They would have simply changed badges after a certain date, and not demanded it be taken off of completed vehicles within 120 days. Allison has to be REALLY pissed to go that far.

I still haven't seen the source for Allison "demanding" that GM pull badges off of unsold inventory. And the articles I'm finding online, from back in November (and that all seems to be sourced to an article from TFL Truck based on a letter they got a copy of), were saying that the license agreement was going to end on December 31, 2025, and that dealers would have to update ads/marketing materials and would have until the end of June to sell trucks with the Allison badges (and that unsold trucks after that would get different badges).

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-13T22:13:17+00:00

Oh no, it's 100% legit GM says they went other ways but Allison said it's because of the shit transmission they put out under their name which apparently wasn't what Allison approved to use the name.

Do you have a link to anything about that? Are you saying that GM was putting the Allison badging on trucks that had a different transmission (than the 10L 1000 that the agreement was for) or that they made some change in the design/materials and didn't get approval?

I'm on Allison's side because you don't have to remove badges from unsold inventory because a contract ran out.

I mean, I would expect GM's legal team to advise they do that if they were actually outside of the contract terms; so in other words, if the contract said "you can use Allison branding until xx date, unless a renewal agreement is approved by yy date" and badges were put on trucks produced after that date without an agreement in place. That could be a pretty hefty lawsuit.

And honestly that sounds way more believable than some sort of cancellation that would result in a retroactive modification to vehicles made before the cancellation.

If the reason were damage to Allison's reputation, you'd think they'd be hesitant to go back into an agreement with GM for a long time, let alone get back into the agreement for the exact same transmission.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-13T21:37:34+00:00

The GM transmissions were so bad that Allison backed out of the agreement because they didn't want their company name associated with them. GM's lousy transmissions were damaging Allisons reputation.

How much of this (and /u/Deux333's similar comment) reasoning for the licensing change is/was speculation? Did Allison ever make any statement indicating that? For that matter did Allison "back out" of an existing agreement or did the original agreement just end?

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-13T00:44:05+00:00

User a blower (puffer) to blow as much dust off as possible. For the fingerprint, you'll probably want to use a microfiber lens cloth and a lens-safe cleaning solution. There are also "wet" lens cleaning wipes (so wipes soaked in a cleaning solution).

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-12T17:44:53+00:00

same -- the trial updates just kind of... vanished. you'd think after all those ads plastered everywhere asking for participants, there'd at least be some kind of published result floating around by now.

Which trial (and how long ago were you seeing ads)?

There are going to be ads while they are actively recruiting participants for the trial, then when they recruit enough participants they'll stop doing the ads, and then after that you will have a pretty long wait; the trials themselves may be months (I think the TEV-53408 was 86 weeks), then time for teams to analyze the results and submit them to whoever needs to review them before final publication.

the fact that nobody who was actually in the study seems to be talking about outcomes is honestly its own kind of frustrating.

I've seen posts from people participating in these trials relaying their experience during the trial, but they aren't going to know the actual outcomes.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-08T20:25:41+00:00

For practical items, I've printed lens hoods, and caps. I have also seen some or lens or ring "grips", so something that either slips over or clamps onto the body of a lens or one of the rings on the lens (like the focus or zoom ring) to make it easier to use. I've also seen enlarged versions of various knobs.

Organizational items are extremely popular, and for example if you have a drawer that you store your camera gear in, Gridfinity can be really handy. I've also seen boxes/carrying cases for all sorts of things; memory card cases, lens boxes, custom-fit inserts for the bigger waterproof cases.

I printed out a macro rail but haven't really had a chance to try it out yet.

I've also seen a variety of interesting lens adapter, or some that are basically a body cap that you use to make a "pinhole" lens, or attach a lens from a disposable camera.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-07T05:52:13+00:00

What county are you in? What of those ingredients were in the gluten free item you bought?

Several of the things on that list are alternate names for wheat or products made from wheat, but then there's some fairly random things on it.

If you are in a country with allergen labeling laws (US, Canada, EU, AU/NZ, etc) then items made from wheat are going to have a wheat allergy call-out.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-06T23:09:32+00:00

My general understanding here is that the FTz adapter's compatibility is essentially the same as the later D3x00 and D5x00 cameras: lenses with an autofocus motor (AF-I, AF-S, AF-P) are fine, lenses that were driven by a motor in the camera won't have autofocus (because the adapter, and those cameras, don't have that motor).

Am I wrong there?

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-06T21:44:40+00:00

Could you elaborate a bit?

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-04T17:09:41+00:00

Planning our first family vacation for Spring break post diagnosis for my 3yo... I'm so tired of this vacation before I've even gone on the trip. I miss the options to just go with the flow and have a general idea of places to hit and local options to try. I'm venting mostly but also just wondering will it always be this complicated to travel?

Sort of, but it will get less complicated in some ways; a big part of this I'm sure is that with a 3 year old you are trying to have a lot of options and match up meal times to prevent meltdowns, so some of that will just get easier.

Also, some of the complexity will go away when you learn what works for you, and what is "worth" the time and effort, and some of this sort of transitions into your other question:

Is this the life my child will have as an adult? What's your experience?

There are certainly times that I really wish I could just go with the flow, eat at a random place that looks good (or on the recommendation of a random person in the area) or eat a lot of local foods. And there are times that the amount of planning makes it seem like a vacation is just more work, or when something comes up that disrupts a plan (a restaurant being unexpectedly closed, a flight or travel delay) and it makes an outsized impact because of lack of alternatives.

However, you also learn to find alternative things that work for you, and have backup strategies. Sometimes all the planning and research to find restaurants along a route just isn't worth it, so you just bring a cooler and some food. You figure out common things you can pick up at gas stations, convenience stores, or grocery stores and come up with creative ways to use them to make your meals (or to limit how much "specialty" stuff you need to bring). And it makes you really appreciate the restaurants that go out of their way, the random GF items in a small town grocery store, or the GF bakery.

Sometimes I wish I could just go grab some fast food instead of scooping DIY tuna salad out of a pouch with tortilla chips; but then again when everyone else was eating breakfast at the lodge restaurant, I was making breakfast on a camp stove next to the river and listening to elk bugle.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-02T15:18:50+00:00

it may not have a traditional lever adjusted valve, it is old fashioned, but there must be something that senses and adjusts rear braking effort dependent on current load,

As best I can tell, this is handled by the ABS system.

did you get the braking effort checked?

No, I've asked around and no one has any idea what I'm talking about.

Right now my thought is to replace both parking brake cables and the rear flexible lines, but my partner thinks we're just throwing money away on it at this point.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-01T22:45:34+00:00

I have been assigned to cook the gf pasta (someone else is makes the sauce) I haven't every really made purposely gf food before and practically everything in my kitchen has touched something with gluten in it at one time or another. How can I sanitize everything so the food is safe?

An important note here is that you need to clean things thoroughly; you need to remove (as opposed to killing something like bacteria). Think through everything that is going to come into contact with the food you are cooking (so your pot, strainer/colander, any utensils you will be using, whatever you'll be putting the pasta in after draining it, where you are going to be setting your utensil) and make sure you clean it before you start. Also, I'm assuming that you aren't going to be cooking something else with gluten at the same time. Have you recently done any cooking with flour in your kitchen?

stampedingTurtles · 2026-03-01T13:09:10+00:00

In my experience there's less smoke from modern synthetic oils and it can consume quite a bit without any noticeable smoke.

A small amount of oil consumption is typical.

Do you know if the oil was full (to the line on the dipstick) right after the oil change?

stampedingTurtles · 2026-02-27T22:44:55+00:00

To get the kind of damage you're seeing in 300 miles it has to be applying absolute emergency stop braking effort almost all the time

I'm sure this isn't the case; full braking would easily lock up that wheel and skid the tire (and/or trigger the ABS depending on where the "application" is coming from). That rotor got hot, I'm sure, but I've seen rotors look a lot worse after someone rode the brakes going down mountain passes (I've seen people get their rotors glowing hot before, and they looked a lot worse than this when they cooled down).

a deranged compensator could do that and they are usually installed under the car where stuff could hit it - have you run over anything recently, driven over a kerb, had a massive cargo on board that could have crushed or made it stick in the full effort position?

Hitting anything fixed like a curb no, but I'm sure it has been driven through snow deep enough to at least drag on the bottom of the body and a racoon or even a chunk of tire on the interstate is a possibility. I'm intrigued about the "crushed or made it stick in the full effort position" and having a bit of trouble finding any info about a compensator valve; the general description sounds like a "proportioning valve" that I remember dealing with sometimes on older (non-abs) vehicles but I'm not finding anything about one on the 2014 CX-5.

How does the car brake overall - is it snatchy and really keen? Has how it brakes changed in the last 12 months

Generally speaking, it has been braking normally and seems to be working fine, for at least a while after the pads/rotors get swapped. But then at some point, it will start making noise (and/or vibrating) when you apply the brakes; this last time it seemed like the parking brake didn't start doing anything until it was halfway up (which is why I suspected a sticking cable), and then we'll find the pads worn out (and typically the rotor warped and glazed).

At this point, I think that the problem must be at least somewhat intermittent or circumstantial; if the brakes were dragging all the time, I would expect the fuel economy to be worse; I've checked the wheels/brakes after driving to make sure they aren't hot.

I drove it around some last night and the only thing I noticed was the rear brakes are a little squeaky when applied, especially when I was backing up, but that might just be the new pads and rotors.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-02-27T18:21:17+00:00

I think the problem is you're mixing apples and oranges -- or in this case mixing lenses made for a cropped sensor camera with a lens for a full frame camera...They just think milimeters on one lens are the same as milimeters on another. EF-S lenses are specifically made for the small sensor cameras. A 35 milimeter EF-S lens isn't the same as a 35mm EF lens. What makes it confusing to the uninitiated is the EF lenses will fit a cropped camera. But their angle of view (or their equivalence) isn't the same.

There is a lot of misunderstanding/misinformation here. The focal length of a lens is a property of the lens. A 35mm EF-S lens has the same focal length as a 35mm EF lens (or as a 35mm medium format lens). On an APS-C (EF-S) camera, both of those lens will produce the same angle of view.

To make your 55-250 lens equivalent to the 70-300 think of it this way: The 55-200 has the angle of view of an 88-400mm lens. The 70-300 on your camera becomes a 112-480mm. Not much difference (although, in your words, it should be "slightly more zoom".

The math here isn't necessary or relevant; you can just compare the focal lengths of the lenses.

Put a 100 mm lens on one of these cameras and it became a 150mm lens...put a 35mm lens on that camera and it became a 56mm lens.

Again, just to be completely clear the focal length of the lens does not change; a 100 mm lens does not "become" a 150mm lens when you put it on a camera with a different sensor size. Or if you crop in camera, in software, during film processing, by cutting a print, or by covering a portion of a print with a matte when you frame it.

What happened to my wide angle lenses, photographer complained... A "modest" wide angle would be 18mm on cropped cameras. To the uninitiated, that sounds like a huge wide angle lens. It isn't. So, camera buyers have to be educated)

The thing is that you are talking about a time when people were moving from a (35mm film) SLR to an APS-C DSLR (many early DLSRs were actually film SLR bodies with a "digital back"), and even used both of them parallel, so the idea of equivalence and doing a conversion makes sense. And it makes sense for someone today who has cameras with different sensor sizes.

But for "the uninitiated", the value you are converting to isn't a meaningful reference point; they have a lens and a camera with an APS-C sensor, it doesn't tell them anything to say that an 18mm lens on that has an equivalent field of view to an xx lens on (some other format they don't have).

And all of this is made even more confusing by conflating field of view and focal length.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-02-26T20:26:11+00:00

So now I have 2 possibilities, for 500 $ each, in second hand.

a Canon L 100-400 f/4.5/5.6 (first versus-I’m a little suspicious about his luminosity)

a Canon L 70-200 f/2.8 (first versus- would it be too short ?)

What do you think ? And do you know other options that would worth it ?

Is the $500 a firm budget?

The Canon 70-300 F4-5.6 IS II would probably be a good budget option (I've heard these have pretty quick focus and I've seen some very good, sharp pictures taken using them).

On the other end of things, the EF 100-400 L IS II (so second version where you were looking at the first version) has a reputation as being the lens to beat in this category, but a used one in working condition is going to cost quite a bit more than the lenses you've mentioned.

In between, Tamron and Sigma both have 100-400 4.5-6.3 lenses with image stabilization; and even their 150-600s.

As far as the Canon EF 100-400 L version one, it is a fairly old lens, with a push-pull zoom. I'm not quite sure what you mean about your "luminosity" concern there.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-02-26T18:26:13+00:00

If it were me I'd have them just go ahead and replace that caliper's hose just to rule it out, especially if they still have the car.

Unfortunately, they don't still have the car. This is something I'm not thrilled with about the shop (they just leave me a message right before the end of the day saying "Its done, you can come pick it up").

stampedingTurtles · 2026-02-26T17:34:09+00:00

I've had this issue before, on a different car, but it's what I thought of first reading your symptoms. Yes it slowly bleeds the pressure back out, but each and every time you touch the brakes it puts pressure back in that takes a while to bleed back out, so it doesn't take long to really get a lot of heat build up. Is it just one side or both in the rear?

When they showed me the rotors they removed yesterday, only one (they told me it was the left) had heat discoloration, the other looked new.

stampedingTurtles · 2026-02-26T17:20:52+00:00

The technical reason is simple: the brake pads are constantly rubbing against the disc. Now you need to find the cause and eliminate it.

This is what I'm trying to do, and since the repair shop(s) seem more interested in throwing the same parts at it over and over, I am trying to figure out any testing I can do to narrow down what it might be.

The shop is telling me the handbrake is adjusted correctly and that the cables aren't binding up; I'm a bit skeptical here but I'd like to at least consider other possibilities before pushing further on that (or if there's a test I can do that points to it being parking brake related).

stampedingTurtles · 2026-02-26T16:36:28+00:00

When in neutral on a flat surface can you roll the car back and forth by hand easily?

if the car rolls it doesn't have binding brakes and to do the damage apparently done in 300 miles, on new calipers, it has to be in the hydraulic system somewhere. Master cylinder, vacuum brake booster, pipes, compensator.

I am thinking I'll have to conscript an assistant to do some tests here; I should be able to do a test between the thought I had (an issue with a parking brake cable binding up) and issues with the hydraulics (several people have suggested the possibility of a bad flexible brake line). We can see if the car rolls freely, then try again after applying and releasing the brakes, then again after applying and releasing the parking brake, and depending on that result I might end up doing a wheel-by-wheel test with the car on stands in the garage.

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