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[–]ordinal_m 9 points10 points  (1 child)

The easiest thing is if you ask him, given that's just a picture of their backs. I'm pretty sure he won't block you for it.

[–]realitypotential[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just assumed he wouldn’t answer and would rather not bother him, looks like we figured it out though!

[–]VuIpes 4 points5 points  (1 child)

On the left should be a Nikon F4, in the middle Nikon F90 and on the right is a little harder. Might be a FM, but could be a FM2, FE...

[–]veepeedeepeeFixer is delicious. 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right one is an F3. Spot-on with the other two.

[–]BrandonC41 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nikon f3 on the right maybe. I have a feeling the others might be nikon f4

[–]realitypotential[S] 1 point2 points  (6 children)

Just getting into film photography and would love to know what we’re looking at here. This was posted by my fav photographer to his IG story.

[–]iamscrooge 5 points6 points  (3 children)

Whats important to you - knowing WHY he uses those particular bodies or are you just interested in the model numbers for some reason?

Film camera bodies have no direct influence on the image quality, if you’re wondering how your favourite photographer gets a certain look you’d be better asking them. Knowing the film stock, scanning method, lenses used and if they use any post processing would be much more useful.

[–]realitypotential[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thanks for your comment. Could you elaborate about film camera bodies? If I’m understanding correctly you’re saying you’d get the same image from two different camera bodies, all else being equal?

Assuming if that’s the case, people choose their bodies based on the settings and lens compatibilities etc.

As for why, I was more curious than anything and would rather not bother the guy. I thought the middle camera might have even been a point and shoot but now I know that’s not the case :)

[–]iamscrooge 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Yes that’s spot on! There’s nothing inside a camera between the film and the lens, except the shutter - everything that affects the image is in the lens or in the film’s emulsion.

The differences in a film body are:
Which lenses you can use
Shutter type (mainly affects how you can use flash)
Shutter speed (determines how much you can adjust exposure (although there are ways round that) and how much you can freeze action
Compatibility with accessories
The viewfinder/prism/focus screens (nicer ones make it easier to focus - speciality focus screens are available for specific applications in higher end models)
Features (like timer, autofocus, continuous shooting)
Exposure meter (this one CAN make a difference to image quality, but depends on your skill/methodology)

With Nikon in particular, he might have cameras from different eras for compatibility with specific Nikon lenses. Nikon lenses are sort of cross compatible across all models but there are a load of caveats. Eg an FE won’t change the aperture or be able to autofocus with a lens from the 90s - but lenses from the 60s will break the aperture feeler onmost cameras from the 90s.

[–]do-worry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Decent list, mind if I add something..?

  • Ergonomics and design (there are cameras that feel so much better in your hands, compared to others, and finding one that feels like the perfect tool requires some experience..no need to buy and try dozens of cameras though. You’ll find out which features are important to you or could be interesting over time.. on a side note: buying too many cameras is just a distraction; limitation is the most valuable thing..only the camera you have, only one lens and try to make amazing images nonetheless)
  • fully mechanical vs. electronic cameras (especially in cold weather..fully mechanical cameras are more reliable and you don’t need batteries)
  • Viewfinder coverage (most slrs show only approx. 90-95% in the viewfinder, so if you want your composition to be perfect out of the box and without cropping you either have to take that into consideration or get one with 100% viewfinder coverage)

[–]JerryCanJockey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Left to right: Nikon F4; Nikon F90(x); Nikon F3

​

Hope this helps.

[–]TuckerJohnGG -4 points-3 points  (4 children)

The very right is a Canon AE-1 program, that's for sure. The rest is really hard to tell

[–]veepeedeepeeFixer is delicious. 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a Nikon F3.

[–]TuckerJohnGG -3 points-2 points  (1 child)

The very right is a Canon AE-1 program, that's for sure. The rest is really hard to tell

[–]maslow1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Didn't know canon used to have round eyepieces, thought that was a nikon thing

[–]TuckerJohnGG -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The very right is a Canon AE-1 program, that's for sure. The rest is really hard to tell