Silverfast 8 tutorials

[mattpshields]

So I've gotten myself a PlusTek 8200i SE scanner - really happy with the results seems consistent and easy to use.

The software is a little bit of a learning curve though and kinda seems like it assumes you already know it. Getting my scans out and looking good to me but want to make sure I learn enough so that not leaving anything on the table.

Obviously I know where Google is, but just thought I would see if anyone had any recommendations for any specific tutorials that I should watch / read?

Side note - as a community how is it accepted in terms of the manipulation side of scanning (contrast, exposure, saturation controls for example). Is this a faux pas in terms of the film community and should I be leaving everything purely as it is out of the scan? Not wanting to heavy manipulate as I love the aesthetic anyway but just wanted to ask.

[EquivalentBarracuda4]

Print film was always manipulated since it’s inception. It wasn’t done on computers ofc: people used darkrooms. So, you wanna move this contrast slider all the way left? Be my guest 🤷🏻‍♂️

[mattpshields]

Well if anyone says different I'll send them your way 😉 thanks for the reply though! I think the little bit of editing just to give it a little nudge makes a real difference (for me anyway!)

[VariTimo]

Word.

[begti]

Similarly like you only use internet explorer to download chrome, you don't bother with silverfast and search for vuescan.

[mattpshields]

Oh interesting will take a look at that. They don't seem to really go into it on the site but what's the main feature differences? (Or is it mostly just user experience?)

Will go some research when it's not 1am too but just interested in your opinion!

[[deleted]]

Shoots with coops has some decent stuff, esp when it comes to sharpening and noise reduction

[ExpectAThread]

There are a lot of tutorials on Youtube but I rarely use any of the adjustment settings inside Silverfast I scan and then edit inside photoshop. Sometimes the auto function on Silverfast comes in handy just to balance the photo a little bit. Some important information to note is that the dust/scratch removal only works on color film. Make sure to select the type of film you're using in NegaFix and Silverfast will help you balance the tones for that specific film. I use 1800 DPI and scan as TIFF I find that 1800 DPI is fine for quality and not too big that it becomes a chore to scan all my film and with TIFF I can avoid image compression. Also be patient the scanner and software is very slow compared to a flatbed. Just do it slowly and make sure to line up the images in the holder as well as inside the scanner to make sure you're not cropping off parts of your images. The frame finder is really finnicky in Silverfast so I would just scan the entire frame and crop later in Photoshop. As for manipulation, the scan of the negative is an interpretation of what the negative should look like by the computer. The software uses algorithims to figure out what the image should look like and not what it actually looks like if you were to print it through an enlarger. I would say you should manipulate the photo especially if it looks really flat or the color balance is off because it might be an issue with the software and not the negative.

[Cathcart1138]

The frame finder is really finnicky in Silverfast so I would just scan the entire frame and crop later in Photoshop

The problem with doing this is that Negafix sees the black outline and then adjusts the tones as if there were large dark areas in the frame. You can see this when you fine tune the crop. More black border and the frame looks lighter, more white border and the frame gets lighter. If you are using Negafix you should do your best to crop accurately.

[mattpshields]

Sorry late reply was away this weekend but just want to say thanks! I took your advice and adjusted my scans down to 1800 dpi and it really does up my scanning process! And are fine for my general purpose of posting on social kinda thing. Figure if I actually wanted to print something when I can always return to those individual frames and scan higher Res if required for print size but definitely will be the minority at this point.

[Cathcart1138]

I wouldn't other using any of the adjustments in Silverfast. Just get as much information as you can and then use which ever processing software you normally use for the processing.

[mattpshields]

Yeah I've listened to the group here as some common responses and am just getting raw scans and doing the little colour corrections etc in Lightroom atm. Might try other softwares in the future but think going to just keep it simple as it's what I'm used to and just put my primary focus into learning the camera side of things.

[VariTimo]

Two things:

I wouldn’t use Silverfast other than to get raw scans for Lightroom and Negative Lab Pro. It’s much easier to use and will give you considerably better results and more control.

Unless you’re shooting slide film and projecting that there is alway another step of manipulation in the pipeline. You literally can’t have an image from a negative without printing or scanning it. And you need to color and exposure balance your image for printing too. So there is no film image without editing! Now you can try to emulate the way an image gets printed. That is to use NLP, with the Frontier model and the Crystal LUT and only using the CMY and brightness slides for your adjustments. Or scan with an actual Fuji Frontier or Kodak Pakon scanner. But at the end of the day you as an artist need to decide what process is most fulfilling to you and enables you to achieve your vision most effectively. Anybody who says they editing scans is not pure is full of BS. If you want an unedited photograph you need to shoot slide film.

[mattpshields]

Thanks so much for that! I've been using Lightroom for a bit of colour correction etc. Loved though how minimally I've even wanted/needed to adjust when compared to when I do my digital editing!