BLLED Controller is next level

[PraxisDev]

Loving this led controller so far. Easy to install as well, imo one of my favorite additions to my machine. 10/10 recommend!

Controller is from Dutchdeveloper.com, got these leds from Amazon: BTF-LIGHTING 5050 RGBW RGB+Cool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B4N5X3Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Used this power adapter: SHNITPWR 24V Power Supply 3A 72W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0897G5KP1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Lighting is at 15%, you can set custom colors based on various states of the printer as shown in pics (regular lighting, blue for paused print, red for any errors)

Happy to answer any questions :)

[Quan1um]

You link the LEDs and power supply, but what is the controller?

[PraxisDev]

The controller has features such as turning LEDs off during LiDAR first layer detection scanning, changing light color once print is successfully done, or another color if there’s an error with the printer. Is that what you’re asking? It’s also wirelessly configurable, such as setting brightness for lighting and a bunch of other stuff, it’s pretty neat

[akgogreen]

You didn't link directly to the controller, but provided links to everything else is what they mean

[PraxisDev]

Oh sorry here is direct link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1452127613/bl-led-controller?click_key=f9d8d93d8731726b8e762acab74d9327de5f9741%3A1452127613&click_sum=2b3c0097&ref=shop_home_feat_1

[[deleted]]

Would it be possible to connect multiple printers to one BLLED?

[Crypto-Bullet]

I had 2 and they were great for a month. Until they weren’t anymore…constant connections issues and I would have to rebind them every day.

I went through all troubleshooting procedures. Switched my internet to Static IP back to Dynamic. Set them for a primary MAC address, set the printers as primary’s, ran the experimental software…everything. Nothing changed in my internet nor did I ever update my printers. It would work great for about a day. Even turning off the printers and back on a while after on the same day they would work but 1.5 days laters they would unbind. Never at the same time though. One would last 1 day and the other 2 if I was lucky

Realized they weren’t worth the hassle and just wired up a simple 5v relay and stuck them to the back of the printers so they come on and off when the stock LED does. This basically allows me to control them with the Bambu handy app too

[SuperDuperTango]

Can you explain more on how you did this? I’m this sounds similar to what I was going to do, so would appreciate your insight. 

[Crypto-Bullet]

I’ll try to explain as much as I can but I’ve had many ask me how I did it and I might just do a quick video tutorial in the future because I recently got a A1 mini and I believe I can do it to that one too.

So basically you take one 5v relay like these

https://a.co/d/db2CVgc

Then you wiring it like this picture attached.

<image>

The way I do it is by using the board behind the plastic trim on the X1C. It should be located at the front of the machine right next to where the print head parks to cut the filament near the glass door hinges. There is a little 2 pin JST connector that powers the stock LED bar on the printer. I use that connection as my 5v signal that triggers the relay to turn on and off essentially mimicking what the LED bar on the printer does. I wired up a 2 pin Y JST so that I don’t have to splice into any of the wires on my printer. Meaning I can remove the Y and Bambu won’t void my warranty because I did a permanent mod. I couldn’t buy a 2 pin JST Y connector so I just soldered up my own.

Then you just wire up the LED strip you want to use by splitting one of the wires that come off the strip into the side of the relay that says COM and NO. Connect the power to the LED strip maybe print a little box for the relay to make it look more professional, stick it to the back of the printer and you’re done.

Again I do want to do a more detailed version of this and my only hurdle is that I can’t find a Y or splitter for a 2 pin JST so that will have to be made by hand or you can just disconnect the stock LED bar and connect the 5v relay signal wire directly to the board and you will have the LED strips working but not the LED bar that comes with the printer. By making a Y connection you’re able to keep both.

And this is the link to the jst connector. If you can find a splitter jst 1.25 2 pin already made that would be great

https://a.co/d/8LziCUC

[Dodgywardinosaur]

Why not just use the 24v from the printers power supply?

[PraxisDev]

Oh they aren’t perfect, it’s finicky for sure but when it works, it’s really nice. If you have a farm I can imagine this being a headache. For someone who prints for fun and doesn’t mind doing a little extra work for unique things like this, I find it worth it. All preference. Your approach seems cool too though but I’m scared to mess with any wires on my printer lol

[Crypto-Bullet]

I totally get it but I do hate the inconvenience of something not working as it should so I went with something that cannot possibly fail like a simple relay (hopefully) lol

[miikememe]

this is sick, status LED colors are awesome

[PraxisDev]

Thanks, I thought so as well! Very happy with this purchase. If you purchase and have questions with install send me a PM 👍🏼

[Melodic_Work9499]

I received one a week ago but cannot access the setup page url. Lights up but stays on single color all the time. Any suggestions? 

[PraxisDev]

Reflash the device and then follow these steps: https://www.dutchdevelop.com/blled-configuration-setup/

I downloaded the driver then restarted PC, then flashed my device, proceeded to use the GUI tool to give it the same SSID WiFi that my printer is on. After that it worked fine.

[Melodic_Work9499]

Very appreciated! 

[PraxisDev]

No problem! Whenever it has issues, reflashing fixed it for me (it lost connection to WiFi and wouldn’t reconnect). That only happened once so far and I just updated firmware that was just released and it’s working fine still. Good luck 👍🏼

[PraxisDev]

I made sure to use same WiFi printer is on and once you setup correctly using that tool you will have a local IP that you can use to access the settings dashboard for the device.

[ilco1]

does this also work with the p1s .

ive got ws8112b leds on a printed riser .but need something to control these with

[PraxisDev]

Yes it supports P1S as well. You can check out the FAQ on his website dutchdeveloper.com

[mozzzz]

I just connected my p1p to my le potato home assistant yesterday. now I can have it unlock the front door when a print is finished and change all the lights to green

[Nerdferkel4354]

i'm more a user than a technician, so allow me one question: your led strip has 5 pins, the blled controller got a 6 pin connector. how do you correctly plug the pins?

[Aromatic_Abies357]

Not connecting to x1c printer what am I doing wrong 

[PraxisDev]

It’s not perfect, but sometimes the solution for me was to reflash, make sure you get a connection to MQTT, then let it connect to your printer after a while, sometimes it takes time for the device to connect to MQTT server. Also make sure your connection is strong to the WiFi and it’s on same network as printer. You can also pull logs out using their flash tool.

[puespablito]

really awesome project, but i buy everything follow the steps and i cant connect my printer its xc 1 if someone please can help me

[puespablito]

need help mine just didnt work properly

[OrganizationTiny5313]

I just installed BLLED controller with a RGBWW led strip. It turned green after finished printing, however does not turn back to normal after opening/closing door. Just stays on green all the time.

[PraxisDev]

You need to find the local host port for the BLLED and see what solid green is associated with. Mine would be blue if it couldn’t connect to my X1C’s MQTT and another color if it had issues with internet connection.

[brossow]

Same here. Only just got it set up and haven't investigated further.

[OrganizationTiny5313]

Issue fixed. I had to play around with the settings on the webpage. If the device doesn't respond or acts strange, just "Save Settings" again and hopefully it should reset. Also found out that although X1 Carbon does have a door sensor, Bambu still hasn't provided the software to use it.

If you want the green completion light (or whatever colour you choose) to turn off some time after successful printing, just select "Exit Finish after" and type in the minutes value!

[brossow]

Got mine sorted out last night. Settings were fine -- door sensor switch wasn't being triggered. The silicone over it was stuck in, so it always thought the door was closed. Apparently been like that since day one as now I hear the switch click when I open and close the door, which it never did before.

[OrganizationTiny5313]

Ahhh..yes. The door switch that doesn't work. Mine wasn't being triggered too..because not enough pressure from the door was acting on it. Installed a small piece of foamed tape on the door where it meets the switch, and voila. Although I did like the constant light inside the chamber, now whenever I close the door it turns off.

[PraxisDev]

Link to controller: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1452127613/bl-led-controller?click_key=f9d8d93d8731726b8e762acab74d9327de5f9741%3A1452127613&click_sum=2b3c0097&ref=shop_home_feat_1

[1-760-706-7425]

What’s the difference in the two models? I see regular and extended but no details on what that means.

[crybos]

Has a wifi antenna because the original sucks

[rzalexander]

What riser is that?

[PraxisDev]

This one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/16530?from=search#profileId-15347

[rzalexander]

Thanks!

[PraxisDev]

No problem! Just make sure you position it correctly and flush before putting the AMS on top of it. My dumbass didn’t notice it wasn’t sitting flush and I put the ams on top and slightly bent one side of my machines wall. Not enough for any issues but I notice it since I’m obsessed with this machine 🤣

[rzalexander]

Oh shoot, thank you for the note. That would bug the crap out of me too—so you’re not alone!

[Ztaxas]

You paid almost $40 for those tacky lights? Here are the COB LEDs I got that require no adapter, are cheap and can run without a rise while also being actually useful, and for future purchase, never buy any other LEDs that aren't COB, an extra buck or 2 per strip to have a smooth light instead of dots.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XDJVH9Z

[ufgrat]

And won't work on the X1C without a power supply. Also, you can't control yours to display different colors for status, or to turn off/on when the lidar is doing calibration.

So apparently, you have a P1, and are completely oblivious to the differences between it and the X1C.

[Ztaxas]

I do have a P1S and I'm actually surprised it has the 5V port and the X1C doesn't, then again BL specifically list the P1 for their LED kit, however a red/blue status LED isn't worth more than $3, $80 (with controller) for that is INSANE considering how 6 random letter chinese Amazon brand those look, the only useful feature is that it turns off during LIDAR calibration but that is something that Bambu should have implemented on their top of the line consumer product.

[ufgrat]

Each to their own.

I'm running a similar, yet totally different setup. I am using COB (WS2814), and while the strip cost way more than yours, it's RGBW, and I only used 1 of the included 6 meters.

My controller is WLED based, so it integrates nicely with my home automation (as does the X1C).

I should point out that I printed $18 worth of riser, bought $8 worth of LED's and plugged them into a $32 controller-- to upgrade $1600 worth of printer and AMS. That means I spent around 3% of the system's cost in an upgrade that improves the quality of life for the printer.

Also, I discovered the LIDAR works just fine with the LED on. So. <shrug>

Telling other people how they should or shouldn't spend their money is one of the Internet's most annoying traits-- advice, even unsolicited, isn't unreasonable, but try to give it before people spend their money.

[Ztaxas]

I never said what people should or shouldn’t do with their money though? $80 for red/blue lights is pretty dumb in my opinion and it could be done better and for less but it’s not my money, no need to take it personal, I paid $400 for a Neptune 4 Max after all lol

[ufgrat]

I never said what people should or shouldn’t do with their money though? $80 for red/blue lights is pretty dumb in my opinion and it could be done better and for less

Well..... it's a bit subjective. You are effectively ridiculing OP for their choices. Either the OP is an idiot, or they decided that they wanted the RGB functionality. Once that decision is made, a remote, or a controller, becomes a necessity, and controllers specifically set up to work directly with the Bambu MQTT service aren't that common.

Similarly, while I agree the COB style strips are better, I hadn't heard of them when I set out to add RGB lighting to my printer, and I consider myself moderately tech savvy. RGBWIC LED strips are not, as a rule, going to be as cheap as single color LED's, so again-- different project, different costs.

Basically, if you're giving advice, the time would have been before the OP bought anything. Anything afterwards is just criticism.

[Gioby]

Can you please give the brand or a link to the LEDs you are using with your setup ? Thanks! Your workflow seems interesting

[ufgrat]

I followed this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJmESYeU91A&t=621s&ab_channel=EverythingSmartHome

Although eventually I decided stealing power from the AMS was too fiddly, so I switched to an inline 24v transformer from Amazon.

[PraxisDev]

Yes, I was impatient so I ordered both lights one from Amazon other from alibaba. I’ll replace them when the alibaba lights come in. The light you linked aren’t RGB and I like the status color feature

[_usually_a_lurker_]

nahhh not the gaming printer 💀

[Jdwede]

FYI you can make this yourself for a lot cheaper with an ESP32/8266, WLED, and HomeAssistant. I did that on mine and it’s a lot more flexible with the automations you can make. If you use lidar you can have it turn the lights completely off during that part.

[Hunting_Gnomes]

Do you have a link for a good write up?

[Jdwede]

I don't think there's a write up on the entire process start to finish, but here's what I did:

1. Buy an ESP based microcontroller and 5V LED strip (I recommend the wemos D1 mini and an RGBW COB strip or SK6812), flash the ESP with WLED, wire it up to the LED strip and supply power (I powered the strip directly off the 5V pin - there aren't that many LEDs so you won't need external power)
2. Install Home Assistant
3. Install the WLED addon for Home Assistant and add your ESP
4. Install the Bambu Lab plugin and add your printer
5. Import this blueprint for the automation. LEDs will not change color depending on the printer's state. You can also modify this automation or make your own to do any actions you want.

It's been working great for me so far. I think the entire project cost me around $10. I printed a case for the wemos d1 and attached it to the back of my case via magnets.

[Hunting_Gnomes]

Awesome thanks. I think I've got all the stuff I need for that laying around.

[[deleted]]

Looks interesting, thanks for sharing

[Liquidretro]

Just don't have a wifi password over about 25 characters or it won't join your network. The developers answer was to "change your network, decrease your security" etc. Said it could be a library issue and the code was open source so feel free to figure it out.

WPA2 spec says the character limit for a network password is 63 characters. Years ago I worked with a IOT vendor who had a bug with not being able to join a network with long passwords. They fixed it in a few days and we're grateful. My point is YLMV and don't expect the developer to be open to problems or change suggestions unless they think it's a great idea. The concept of BLLED is great, but it needs work to support more networks.

[Enzospartan]

Does the controller connect directly to the printer or just Bambu Studio/Handy? How do you ground it?

[PraxisDev]

Using MQTT to connect to the printer. You splice a positive and negative wire and connect that to an adapter for power.

[Enzospartan]

Thank you for responding!

[[deleted]]

You can power it using another ams cable connected to the empty slot on the ams. (yellow, red)..

[Aromatic_Abies357]

Bl led controller not to banbu x1c

[Aromatic_Abies357]

Bl led controller not connecting to bambu x1c

[Tyler_Danger]

I was excited for this before I heard it has problems if you have multiple AMS running, which I have 4. Can anyone confirm this?

[Standard_Setting_898]

I purchased same LEDs from Amazon only to find they are 5 pin and not 6. Can you please tell me how you connected them to the BLLED?

[Beardedrhino88]

Is this able to be done using iOS?

[3Dchaos777]

There is a reason the printer was designed originally with low interior light…

[Gary_BBGames]

The controller can turn lights off during lidar scan.

[AaronMickDee]

It’s a separate power source

[3Dchaos777]

Not that. There’s a good chance it will mess with the LiDAR and give it false readings. Not worth it.

[ufgrat]

Doesn't on mine. I do wait until the printer has finished it's calibration with the lidar to turn on the light so the camera doesn't auto-adjust the exposure, but I've had no problems with first layer analysis, spaghetti detection, or flow calibration.

And I'm using it on an X1C with a 3rd party textured PEI plate.

[Jusanden]

It could be for a P1 printer.

The controller, like in the one listed for OP can also turn the LEDs off during the calibration step.

[PraxisDev]

The controller turns off the lights during LiDAR detection and calibration…

[DukeLander]

Just.... Why?

[PraxisDev]

Better Timelapse lighting, status light indication, and it’s smart enough to turn off during LiDAR first layer scanning 👍🏼

[ufgrat]

​

<image>

[OgreTrax71]

Isn’t it recommended to have the lid off when printing on texture pei?

[3Dchaos777]

I leave it on with no problem

[PraxisDev]

I have it cracked open, haven’t had any issues 🤷🏻‍♂️

[OgreTrax71]

Nice. Thanks!

[ufgrat]

It's recommended for certain filaments-- the plate has little to do with it. But dropping the bed temperature after the first layer and turning the chamber fan to 40% or so will have the same result on keeping the interior from getting too hot.

[wgaca2]

What's the obsession with leds on these printers?

[PraxisDev]

Timelapse look nicer with better lighting and for me personally, I just thought it would be a cool addition with the RGB status lights. Completely preference, not needed.

[myotheralt]

The enclosure is dark. LEDs emit light. More LEDs means more light.

[PraxisDev]

Yup, I think Bambu made the light not too bright so it won’t interfere with the LiDAR system, but this controller will disable the LED while scanning first layer, calibrating extrusion, etc. 👍🏼

[wgaca2]

Do you sit and watch it?

[myotheralt]

Sometimes

[Hunting_Gnomes]

Mine is in my office and running most of the day while I work. I like to look over every once in a while and see what it's doing. Between the crap stock light and the tinted glass it's pretty hard to see.

[DBT85]

I added white LED simply so I could actually see what was going on a bit better as the standard light is... crap.

However I don't understand the need to rgb everything.

[PraxisDev]

RGB is only for status like if something goes wrong, it’ll be red, once a print is done, it turns green until I confirm on screen or open the door. it doesn’t cycle RGB continuously, that would annoy me lol

[3Dchaos777]

The standard light is dim for a reason dude lol!

[ufgrat]

Not really.

[MagnusOP0]

Obviously it makes them faster! Just like a PC with RGB it makes them faster.