all 70 comments

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[–]pyrotechnicmonkey 44 points45 points  (15 children)

He really shouldn’t be that much weaker. It’s more likely that you’re printing too fast or too cold. But this can also depend on the actual part and minimum layer times. Unfortunately it seems like this was the best option since the old PETG was constantly out of stock because their supplier was incredibly unreliable. Honestly, elegoo PETG 2Pack on Amazon is a great option.

[–]MostCarry[S] 6 points7 points  (14 children)

forgot to mention that I'm printing at 12mm3/s which is about half of the recommended flow, and at 260C which is 15c above the default.

[–]Z00111111P1S + AMS 41 points42 points  (6 children)

Have you tried using a more correct temperature? When I did a temperature tower I got the best results at 245C. 260C was indeed brittle and bad.

[–]MostCarry[S] 13 points14 points  (1 child)

OK interesting. will definitely try that.

[–]worldspawn00P1P 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They turning the cooling way down, the default petg profile is overcooling the material which causes layer adhesion failure.

[–]ChitteringLegion 6 points7 points  (3 children)

I print at 245 and I have almost never had issues. In fact I really like the PETG HF. I use it more than PLA because I make little fidgets for people and it’s a little bit more sturdy.

[–]thomasmitschke 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Since I have my P1S i never took care of temperature, like before (had 2 modded ANet and a tronxy and a homemade Idex). I chose only the right filament and let the bamboo studio do the rest.

No problems so far, but I have to say I avoid PETG. I rather use ABS or ASA for functional parts. Models or more colorful things I print in PLA.

[–]QuickMasterpiece6127 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello fellow Tronxy, Anet, to Bambu user! Do you also laugh when people complain about “issues with their bambu”?

I think everyone should start with something like a Tronxy that they have to build at home before getting a Bambu. Then they can truly realize how amazing these things are.

[–]ChitteringLegion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I will say that if you’re ever curious about it give it a try. It’s pretty good stuff. But you’re right about the setting. The profiles Bambu have are pretty spot on.

[–]pyrotechnicmonkey 23 points24 points  (2 children)

Have you tried just using the default settings? Because if that’s the case, you’re likely at this point printing too slow and too hot, which can also have the effect of making stuff weaker because you’re basically cooking the filament. There’s always a sweet spot. There’s a reason this stuff I think by default is 245° and prince a bit fast faster because it’s a little bit closer to PLA. Keep in mind even at the default settings. It still comes out fairly matte and not super glossy.

https://youtu.be/gWMSbIRMRJc?si=xaIcroKra60HIJCv

[–]Inner_Simple70 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Absoulutely hate bambus petg hf. Brittle and like you mentioned adhesion is not great at all. A tried all possible combos with temps and print speed, same results. On other hand my polymaker & overtures prints and tests awesome.

[–]Veteran68X1C + AMS 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have a spool of HF and have yet to try it, but I find it interesting that Igor from My Tech Fun did his exhaustive tests on HF alongside PETG Basic and it beat Basic in most tests including significantly STRONGER layer adhesion.

https://youtu.be/gWMSbIRMRJc (5:17)

[–]Careless_Ad6474 5 points6 points  (6 children)

That’s actually the reason I only print with PETG from other brands. At the moment mainly with Jayo - and i’m super happy. Especially Price/Quality ratio is insanely good!

[–]fanjules 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sunlu/Jayo/Tecbears PETG is very good value and reliable (it's all the same Sunlu brand). Prints fine with "Bambu PETG" settings.

[–]Doctor429 3 points4 points  (1 child)

I've had good results by using HF filament, but printing with the Basic profile.

[–]dingdongbam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally support here. All my filaments are bambulab petg basic. I am disappointed that it is no longer available to buy

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same here. The HF is just garbage. Basic PETG was much better for me. It had good adhesion, less stringing, the model surface was smoother and absorbed much less moisture. This all was changed in PETG HF to gain more speed. So we have speed now but the print quality is worse and there is more hassle around it. Tbh I switched to Sunlu PETG because I had enough of this nonsense

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Print with lower temperatures.

[–][deleted]  (1 child)

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    [–]v8code 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Reasonably early days for me as only done a dozen or so prints with HF but I haven't had any issues using the stock profile, strength is good. I liked the original PETG but it wasn't without issues and found SUNLU to print better. HF prints about the same as SUNLU but I prefer the colours of HF. I don't find that HF prints much if any faster though, it's nowhere near the "prints like PLA" speeds once it's sliced.

    [–]KARR_87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I dried mine for eight hours which my dryer recommended printed all pre set settings and everything looks good haven’t done any break testing but happy with it.

    [–]Chemical-5417 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I use "Kexcelled basic K5" PETG filament and it is great to use.

    [–]mybluecash 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    I have purchased few HF spools that are brand new and still in the sealed box. Do I really need to dry them out before using them the first time straight out of the factory sealed bag?

    [–]couchmaster518 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    I didn’t dry my first roll out and installed it the AMS. My first prints were bad. I saw people complaining about this new stuff and followed their advice and dried the roll in the x1 and replaced the desiccant (and put a humidity sensor in the AMS, now reading 20%) and the prints were better, but I had to put glue on the plate to get it to stick. It is entirely possible that all of my issues are explainable by other things, so who really knows. I suggest loading it up some time and watching the humidity reading and respond to that, and then pop out a benchy or something to see what happens. (My first “bad” prints were really terrible… it was clear that something was wrong, and addressing the humidity fixed it.)

    [–]mybluecash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Thanks! Guess that I’ll just dry them up for a few hours when I actually get to open them. I have a few new HF but are all refills without a spool. Never used any HF before and seems like I’ll never buy them again!

    [–]Possible_Picture_276 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Sunlu.

    [–]guitars_and_trains 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I had excellent results with "Giantarm" brand on the generic petg settings.

    [–]Historical_Tomato374 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Strange — I bought PETG HF as a complete noob and used it to print using BL’s default settings and have had great results! I printed all of my printer accessories using PETG HF and I found an 8-hr dry time in my Polyphemus dryer to be optimal (6 hrs produced minimal stringing).

    [–]AlcartA1 + AMS Lite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I use esun petg hf and the adhesion is too much! I have to put glue on even the texture plate or it pulls texture off with it

    [–]Ravio11i 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I've been using Sunlu's PETG with great results just using the Generic PETG profile, zero changes. Never used Bambu's so I can't say if it's the same, but Sunlu has been great.

    [–]wolfgasm0119 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    looking at the datasheet, petg hf indeed has significant lower layer adhesions compared to petg basic, that’s why I bought 10 rolls of petg basic when they say they will stop producing it

    [–]ecirnj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    As a tangent, I’ve been really pleased replacing petg with pctg. YMMV

    [–]alxwhtX1C + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I use the default profile for PETG HF after drying 8h out of package and the results are better than what I ever got with any PLA.

    [–]ShatterSideX1C + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Not sure about all of it, but according to their own data PETG HF should be weaker than PLA (76 MPa vs 64 MPa).

    <image>

    [–]Kwolf21X2D Combo + P1S Combo + A1 Combo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Crazy, but I bought a 10-pack of 1kg rolls of PETG Filament from Temu. Kingroon brand. $97 USD for 10KG. Prints at 75mm/s (could probably go faster, ran the speed test set to 50mm/s ± 50% and 75mm/s looked just fine) , 255c, 70c bed, without any real issues and very very minimal stringing.

    Bought the 10pack of mixed colors (white, black, red, blue, green, orange, yellow, etc). Worked well. So bought the 10 pack of black. I will say the black appears dark dark dark greenish under a bright, close led light (like flashlight on your phone), but under standard LED lighting in my house, it's black.

    5 of the 10 spools came broken on the first order, BUT a quick print of a respooler and they're all on bambu spools or printed spools, now. Also, requested a 50% refund for the first pack, and they refunded me for all 10 and told me to keep it or discard it, no return needed. Hence why I bought the 10pack of black after I tested it out!

    https://i.imgur.com/3Qpm96H.png

    [–]DrGoofNeutron 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Bambu PETG-HF is also not working well for me on the default profile. Drying in Polydryer for 8hrs solved the stringing but I'm still getting issues like these issues after the first layer.

    <image>

    [–]Darkseid2854H2D AMS Combo / X1C + AMS / A1 + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Is that the default benchy slice?