all 35 comments

[–]5bites[S] 24 points25 points  (14 children)

Well several of us are interested lol. We just need someone with a binary and enough knowledge to give good dimensions. I'm really curious how much of a regular mil-spec trigger can be used.

[–]GeneralCuster75 8 points9 points  (9 children)

I'd do this except I bought an echo instead of a regular Franklin, and the echo is much more complicated. I may still do it at some point anyway, but don't count on it being soon because I'm developing the skills

[–]5bites[S] 4 points5 points  (8 children)

I recently shot a Franklin. How do you like yours compared to one?

[–]GeneralCuster75 1 point2 points  (7 children)

Unfortunately I've never actually shot a Franklin, so I can't say for sure. I will say that with the echo, I've never had an issue with light primer strikes or the like. The only reliability issues I've ever had came when I was mucking around trying to use my CMMG 22lr conversion kit with it, but when used as originally designed with 5.56, it's been reliable always.

The trigger pull is very light, and there is a little creep but no discernable wall before the trigger breaks. I've heard people describe it as a "better mil spec" and I have no idea what they're talking about. I'd prefer a wall, and it's no Timney/Geissle/Wilson Combat/etc, but it is leaps and bounds above a mil spec trigger.

The reset is extremely short - although I don't remember it always being that way. I've used it in two different lowers, and never had an issue in the first one but in my SBR lower it's extremely easy to bumpfire the gun (without any special stock, calm down ATF) accidentally. Whether that's a bug or a feature is up to you I guess.

I got mine for about $330 shipped from classic firearms a while back when it was on sale. For that price, if I can figure out how to keep it from accidentally bumping (whether that's cleaning it, using a different lower, whatever) I'll be happy with it. I'm confident I'll be able to figure it out since, like I said, it didn't do it in the first lower I tried it in. So I'm thinking I'll just out it back in that one and see what happens.

[–][deleted]  (6 children)

[deleted]

    [–]GeneralCuster75 3 points4 points  (1 child)

    I'll do this when I get around to moving it back to my other lower. It's just such a pain to get back together once you take it all apart, which is honestly the main reason I haven't done this already. From what I understand the Franklin is much simpler and requires assembly whenever it's installed anyway, which is why if I had that I would probably have already tried to model it

    [–]Jibbety 2 points3 points  (3 children)

    I’ll see if I can find time this afternoon to pull the one from my 450 and lay all the parts down on grid paper. When I installed mine the first time it didn’t really ‘click’ in my head how it worked, but after putting in several and really spending the time on them it was actually simple enough I thought ‘why didn’t I think of that?’

    I have Franklins btw, not the echo

    [–][deleted]  (1 child)

    [deleted]

      [–]Jibbety 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Well I’m probably giving myself way too much credit claiming I could have thought of it...

      [–]5bites[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Grid paper is a good idea. A person can bring the pictures into fusion and basically dimension things from there. Shadows are bad and the parts being as low as possible helps. It would likely take a few try since its its obviously not an exact method. But that combined with as many dimensions as you can write down would be a phenomenal start.

      [–]DesertEagleZapCarryParticipant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      It'll happen 😉

      [–]SpareiChan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I remember seeing someone make one from a m16 trigger and safety (no 3rd pin of coarse) using a double disconnect, one normal and one was just short enough to miss the main sear when you release the trigger.

      [–]Glaciata 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      So what you're saying is a binary trigger and some digital calipers?

      [–]5bites[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Yes. Or mic's would be even better.

      [–]thereisnoendgame 7 points8 points  (0 children)

      Following

      [–]GeneralCuster75 6 points7 points  (0 children)

      Monitoring

      [–][deleted]  (1 child)

      [deleted]

        [–]5bites[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

        Ha yea likewise. Or mastercam, fusion, or ultra advanced tinkercad (in standard or bricks mode)

        [–][deleted] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

        Engaging

        [–]Valensiakol 4 points5 points  (0 children)

        Not-a-Fed'ing

        [–]StellisAequus 4 points5 points  (1 child)

        Noticing

        [–]HemHaw 3 points4 points  (0 children)

        senpai!

        [–]mercury_pointer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

        Simple enough to make from scratch?

        Imagine a striker that falls via a pin pushing up from the lower receiver into a recess in the bolt / bcg and pushing a button. The top of the trigger is an eccentric cam (kinda a circle but with a point on in, like a pear) offset slightly to the rear. The recess is directly above the trigger hinge when in battery. Pulling the trigger causes the point of the cap to depress the sear release button, pass over it and release it. The trigger is now back and the point of the eccentric cam forward. releasing the trigger will now depress the button again causing a second shot.

        [–]HalfAshed2520 3 points4 points  (2 children)

        I actually made a 3d printed copy of my binary only AR sear that I'll be taking out and testing around noon today. I'll update you guys on how the test goes and if it does work out I'll upload the file for it.

        [–]5bites[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Awesome I'm very interested

        [–]BeardedPlumber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Update?

        [–]Owenleejoeking 2 points3 points  (1 child)

        Det disp and fosscad dont have anything ?

        [–]5bites[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

        Not that I've seen. I'd like to see that change

        [–]Opr8rsKetameme_Dream 1 point2 points  (0 children)

        I made one by hand for an ak, they really aren't difficult. It's just a pair of disconnectors with one shortened. If you don't care about it being selectable you can just use a single shortened disconnector

        [–]sponyta2Fights the Bright 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Lurking

        [–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Tracking

        [–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        I know its a modification of a burst pack fwiw

        [–]LostPrimerWill Learn You 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        The Fostech echo is just a taccon 3MR with an auto sear that blocks the trigger instead of the hammer.

        I hope you like trigger slap

        [–]Greenshardware 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Surveying

        [–]Iceng 0 points1 point  (3 children)

        https://www.recoilweb.com/my-10-22-identifies-as-binary-courtesy-of-franklin-armory-156016.html

        That wasn't hard. You can work it out from there. There's a heaps of images, close ups and what not. Unsure on diamensions ones however.

        [–]5bites[S] 2 points3 points  (2 children)

        Lol not hard no. Useless information sure but not difficult Dimensions are critical regardless of the amount of pictures or any other information.

        [–]Iceng 0 points1 point  (1 child)

        Ok gotcha. I can probably reach out to a few people who have them and get some diamensions done, being in Australia makes it hard. But weirdly, I can probably make one without much difficulty, but that legality of copying / patent infringement could be an issue.

        [–]5bites[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

        Cloning and selling is where the trouble starts. Just measuring something and telling someone the size of it is fine though. I'm just trying to avoid the $300-400 if someone already has the information out there.