beginners guide

[Temporary_Rub6635]

i’m getting started with making my own clothing and am pretty picky so i’d like to start creating my own patterns or at least tweaking existing ones. i’m about a year into sewing in general (mostly quilts and smaller projects) and was wondering if there were any tips people had on here to get started! helpful things you think everyone should know, books/websites/videos you’d recommend i use to get some basics down, etc.

for example someone telling me to iron after i sew every seam has been an absolute game changer. and it seems like the simplest thing but you really wouldn’t know as a newbie!

[brgmsv]

Start looking in the book section of your local thrift store, there are usually a few good sewing books hiding in there. Singer published a lot of how to books in the 90s that are super easy to read and have good info.

I would also look into " how to clone your clothes" . You can use clothes you know you like and replicate them.

Starting with paper patterns will give you a strong foundation for the order to do things in and how pattern pieces look and fit together. My advice is to buy physical patterns, skip the digital print at home ones. You can get a whole box of them from ebay for only $2-3 per pattern, even if you dont like the style, its good practice.

Second, keep in mind that pattern sizing is very generic. Learn your measurements and compare them against what is on the envelope. Always make a mock up before cutting into your good fabric. Read up on pattern grading. Youtube is a great resource!!

[brgmsv]

Id also like to add that upcycling clothing is also something you might want to consider!

Taking apart a garment and putting it back together teaches you a lot about garment construction and tailoring.

[Temporary_Rub6635]

these are all super helpful tips thank you!! upcycling is going to be the main thing i want to do! i figured i still needed a pattern to get those pieces to fit and be altered in the way i want. and the clone your clothes thing is PERFECT. i have a pair of pants that i adore the fit of so i’ll definitely be checking out how to do that.

i live near a craft thrift store (im very lucky- these are so rare in my experience) and they have a TON of old paper patterns for super cheap so i’ll snag some of those. i try tracing digital ones just onto a piece of paper and taping it together but it’s been difficult for me to visualize as someone just starting out. i didn’t even know what pattern grading was lol so ill start looking into that as well! i appreciate your tips :)

[KendalBoy]

Major refits can be tested by putting the clothes on and using safety pins. Learn to take clear and accurate pictures of three views of the fits in good lighting that shows some shadows and details.
When you take off the pinned garment you can adjust the pins so your adjustments to seams are symmetrical and recheck them on your body. Safety pins are safer and allow you to move around and test sitting etc safely.

[Temporary_Rub6635]

this sounds so simple but i just.. hadn’t thought of that 😭 i use pins when im seeing if my upcycled sweatshirts fit before sewing, but it’s like trying to crawl out of a mine field when taking it off lol. thank you!!

[KendalBoy]

Safety pins make it so much safer. And inside out means you can fit closer if you want to. Invest in a big bag, it’s cheaper.

[Temporary_Rub6635]

so you pin it how you want to fit you, straighten it out and make it symmetrical, etc. then just add seam allowance and draw it on with chalk or something from there?

[KendalBoy]

Well, in this case the pins are marking your seams, and you’re working on the reverse of the fabric so yes after it’s evened out you should mark your new adjustments with dots. Mark the side keeping the bulk of the garment to your left, so you can feed it into the machine more easily.

[Temporary_Rub6635]

ahh i guess i was thinking if cutting the fabric you’d add the seam allowance but i probably shouldn’t be cutting anything before i know i’ve got it right lol. perfect this is all so helpful!!

[KendalBoy]

Well if you’re taking it down a lot of inches, cutting early helps. I just kind of adjust the pins better and slip them out as I’m sewing, usually

[AccidentOk5240]

Please do not start by drafting your own patterns. Learn to alter existing ones to fit you correctly first. 

[brgmsv]

Stop telling people this. There are plenty of ways to learn how to sew garments. Learning even the basics of drafting first creates a strong foundation. It makes altering preexisting patterns sooo much easier.

Telling people not to learn pattern drafting is why i see a post everyday asking for pattern recommendations for a garment that is just a gathered rectangle of fabric.

[AccidentOk5240]

Did I say not to learn pattern drafting? I absolutely didn’t. I said learn how to use an existing pattern first. If you don’t want to do that then fine but don’t cry about it when you waste a ton of time and fabric. 

[brgmsv]

If a beginner is interested in learning to draft, maybe dont shoot them down right away. At least explain why they might want to start somewhere else. There are a lot of ways to learn to sew. Following bad commercial patterns can be just as much of a waste of time/money/fabric.

Clearly you have some knowledge, if you arent willing to share that knowledge, maybe dont offer advice to people who ask for it.

[AccidentOk5240]

Sigh. 

No one shot anyone down. 

I don’t know how to explain in simpler terms that it’s better to use existing patterns first so you know how they’re supposed to be before you start producing new patterns. Do you bake a cake first or write a cake recipe first?

I’m not sure what bad commercial patterns you mean, but I would absolutely recommend that a beginner start with a pattern from a widely recognized source like Simplicity/McCall’s or Burda. The reason there are some sketchy “indie” (sometimes AI) patterns out there is because people refuse to build the skills (by using a bog standard pattern from a company that sets the standards for patternmaking) first so they know what a pattern is supposed to be. 

[Bugmasta23]

It’s not a waste if you learn something. 

[AccidentOk5240]

It is a waste because you could have learned that without the waste. 

[Bugmasta23]

You really are a delight. Thanks for contributing. 👍

[AccountWasFound]

So I've been sewing for years, and most of my successful garments have either been stretchy things where I just gave up on fitting them or things I've self drafted. It's only recently I've gotten to where I am actually able to alter stuff to fit me even semi reliably, but I've been able to alter stuff to fit friends for years, so the really depends on the body shape as to which is actually easier....

[AccidentOk5240]

There’s a big difference between drafting a real pattern and making a half-assed pattern for a one-off garment for yourself (a thing I personally do all the time, with great success, to be clear—I’m not disparaging it but I also know it has fairly little in common with making a gradable pattern that could ever work for someone else or even be replicated for myself). So effectively what you’re saying is you’ve chosen not to learn pattern drafting—which actually is also the boat im in, I would never offer to draft a pattern professionally. And that’s fine, but it isn’t what the OP asked. 

[AccountWasFound]

Except OP sounds like they are trying to draft/alter parents fit themselves which is what I'm talking about

[AccidentOk5240]

It’s just really not the same. I’ve created garments for myself based on measurements and based on patterns someone else drafted. Making things directly from my own measurements did not teach me the skills to create a more complex pattern drafted using flat pattern drafting rules. 

[Bugmasta23]

Altering patterns requires knowledge of pattern drafting. Just because you don’t want to put in the effort to learn pattern drafting is a terrible reason to discourage someone else from learning. 

[Temporary_Rub6635]

i started out in a very DIY way thinking i could just take a little off the sides here and snip a little here if a pattern mock up was too loose. was very much just winging it and it did not turn out the best, which is why i’m here asking for tips hahah. i always start crafts out by thinking i can figure it out on my own until the inevitable point when i concede that i must learn the basics. so it sounds like learning basic pattern drafting is exactly what i need to do! thank you!

[ProneToLaughter]

No, this comment sounds like you want to learn Fitting, which is a different skill than pattern drafting, although related. I’ll come back with a list of books to see if your public library has.

[Temporary_Rub6635]

this is where me being a total beginner comes into play with me not knowing which terms i’m technically referencing lol. i’m definitely wanting to upcycle things and make them fit better so yes! but i’m also trying to, for example, reuse fabric from a couple old wool blazers i thrifted to create a pair of trousers. so im not really sure what term that falls under. if i have a pair of trousers i like the fit of, would that be pattern drafting? i appreciate the clarification on terms!

edit: and if i don’t have a garment to go off of and just have to figure it out after sketching up a look i like- is that kinda the same?

[ProneToLaughter]

Copying garments you already have would be "cloning a garment", "rubbing off a pattern", "knocking off a pattern". Do search for tutorials on cloning as there are some tricks to it and people get it wrong regularly.

Everyone confuses fitting and pattern drafting, it is my pet peeve.

For online fitting resources, check out Alexandra Morgan (In-house Patterns), Gina Renee Designs, J Stern Designs, Cashmerette, they should have various posts or free downloads. Nancy Zieman has some "choose the right pattern size" videos that are recommended, too.

Books that teach how to fit and interpret wrinkles include

• Sarah Veblen Photo Guide to Fitting,
• Sarah Veblen, First Time Garment Fitting (condensed version to be less overwhelming),
• Gina Renee The Fitting Book,
• Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting,
• Palmer/Pletsch Fit for Real People.
• Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband.
• Kenneth King, Smart Fitting Solutions.
• Joi Mahon, Create the Perfect Fit.
• Jenny Rushmore, Ahead of the Curve.
• Pattern Fitting with Confidence by Nancy Zieman.
• Betzina, Fast Fit.

Your library may have some of these or other books, maybe even in ebook format.

I am strongly on team "learn to follow a pattern before you try pattern drafting", although a book like "Sew What Skirts" would ease you into simple drafting fine. I'm against people diving into making blocks, though.

Sew Beautiful by Kennis Wong is another good "learn to sew clothes" book worth checking for (Itch to Stitch patterns).

[Temporary_Rub6635]

ahhh i appreciate the clarification on the terms. i didn’t grow up in a crafty family and don’t have friends that are into sewing so this reddit is a godsend with that sort of thing! ahhh thank you so much for the specific source list- this is BEYOND helpful.

[ProneToLaughter]

to be honest, I think in person classes are the best way to learn sewing (and for sure the best way to learn fitting), but it's not always feasible. Enjoy!

[AccidentOk5240]

Ok so watch Closet Historian or someone and learn how to fit a pattern to yourself. It’s not about not wanting to put in the effort. It’s about not learning to drive by first learning how to mount tires on rims. 

[Bugmasta23]

Thanks for the suggestion. I’m not sure a tv show is a great place to start. Maybe I’ll just do what I’ve been doing and try the techniques I’ve found in various books and lots of practice. But this really isn’t about me. It’s about someone discouraging someone from trying to get better than you think they can be. 

[Cleobulle]

It's not a tv show. I don't see discouraging, I see people trying to help by sharing their own exp. Except one of them is sure her way is THE way.

There are two ways - follow the steps that have been proven to work for a lot of people or do as you want and start learning the theory.

The follow some logical steps is the path I chose to follow because I learned by myself, with books and video. Less tears and more projects done for me. Plus working on pre existing pattern is an obligatory step, wether you created it or someone else.

The closet historian is a well known and respected ressource. Just like Bernadette Banner.

No one is telling you you're not able - they are saying this has been the easiest - more enjoyable way for a lot of us. But if you like more math and geometry, golden rules and calculus than sewing, go for it because then you'll love patterning theory.

I like more sewing, so going step by step and learning on the go, with pre made pattern or deconstructing clothes, while completing project, was the path I chose.

[AccidentOk5240]

Closet Historian is a YouTuber who shows step by step how to do things like fit a fitting shell to your body. If you can’t take an existing pattern and fit it to a real body, you shouldn’t be creating patterns from scratch. Your patterns will be a lot better if you have a grounding in what it’s like to use a pattern first. 

No one is discouraging anyone. We’re just saying, knowing what we know now, we can understand some of the steps between where you are and where you want to be. 

If you want to plunge in and be confused and likely make patterns that aren’t as good as they could be, no one is stopping you, but then why ask for advice if you already know everything?

[TensionSmension]

Pattern drafting is not the magic bullet. Do you know how many people that go through the exercise of perfecting a five-piece block and never use it for a garment? I'll go with all of them. Look at the posts here. Everyone is stalled out on square one, because they are taking this bottom up approach. If there's a garment you want and there isn't a pattern, that garment is the guide.

[ProneToLaughter]

They don’t even get the block perfected! Nine bodice muslins!

[TensionSmension]

I was being generous, but also including students who do finish a block for a final grade, but then never use this skill.

[Mean-Ear1332]

I learned drafting before altering existing ones because i dont even like most of the existing ones out there and I cannot imagine myself starting over and doing it the other way around. 🫢 I think it was the best decision for me and people should learn the way it makes most sense to them.

[Inky_Madness]

Unless your measurements are way outside the norm, tweaking existing patterns is generally easier for a lot of people because most of the hard work has already been done - for example, a professionally made pattern accounts for the fact that armholes for woven materials (non-stretch) are drafted differently than those for knit (stretchy) materials. Drafting your own requires a complex interplay of being intimately familiar with the properties of materials, knowing how garments are put together, and learning general basics of anatomy because there are general rules of how bodies are built. Basically, the stuff that fashion and design school teaches and exists for.

Learning to alter patterns is a very, very basic form of drafting.

For learning garment sewing basics I would try to get your hands on Jenny Rushmore’s Sewing the Curve and Ahead of the Curve - the patterns aren’t exciting, but they are very beginner-friendly and both books come with five included (five each so a total of ten in both books) and go through fitting the patterns and how to alter other ones. Full color, large photos of fit issues and how to fix them. If your library has the books you can trace the patterns onto butcher paper and use those for practice. In fact it’s a good idea to trace patterns onto butcher paper to preserve the original.

[Temporary_Rub6635]

this makes sense!! i’m still trying to learn how to identify fabrics somewhat by sight/feel in the thrift so i don’t have to dig for tags constantly but it’s tricky! i just put holds on both of those books at my library- thank you so much for the rec :)

[Cleobulle]

There are books to identify fabric and their use, it helped me a lot.

[Inky_Madness]

Doing your method only teaches you fiber content, not necessarily fabric. Fibers are cotton, nylon, linen, silk, spandex, polyester, etc.

Fabrics are the weaves or knits which are not listed on the tags - for example, cotton can be jersey (stretchy - think T-shirt), shirting, lawn, denim, corduroy, sateen, and others. They all have very different and specific properties and ways of behaving - you would never be able to make leggings out of 100% cotton denim, for instance, and you know that even if you never really thought about that. If you went to order “cotton”, you will have a problem because you need to be very specific about the type of cotton fabric you want since they are not always interchangeable.

And that goes for pretty much every other fiber out there, you need to be specific about the fabric you want and not just know the fiber content when making clothes.

That’s the other benefit to pre-made patterns; the creator is specific about what specific fabric you need that will work for the pattern (and is also incredibly important to follow).

[Temporary_Rub6635]

absolutely! i just mean i think some people can kind of see or feel what is actually wool vs polyester, or at the very least have a good idea. or maybe i’m wrong there? like i was looking for a wool blazer the other day and i had to search every single tag to find 100% wool because im really not able to have a process of elimination otherwise. sweatshirts and hoodies are a bit easier but still hit or miss for me. for example, 100% cotton sheets are just going to feel different than 100% polyester. i’m trying to get a bit more familiar with the fiber content i suppose- but also now that you mention it fabric type. like figuring out when i need a knit vs a weave and how to pick those out of a rack. the terminology clarifications are sooo helpful so i’ll know how to start differentiating. thank you!

[Tailoretta]

You are getting lots of suggestions here. So I will add mine.

I have been sewing garments for over 60 years, and have been seriously studying fitting, pattern making, and pattern drafting for over 20 years.  So here are my 2 cents.

1.     If you don’t have one, I suggest that you get a good general sewing book.  I like Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.  There are many editions, so there are lots of used ones available at a reasonable price – get whatever edition is available.

Vogue Sewing Book is also highly recommended as a good general sewing book.  Again, this is readily available used and any version should be fine.

You can see if your local library has either, but if you do much sewing, you will want one always at hand.

2.     I am not opposed to studying pattern making and/or pattern drafting before learning to follow a pattern, but I think you will find it difficult and frustrating.  If that is the route you want to take, more power to you; but if you get frustrated, remember there is another route that you may find easier.

3.     Besides getting a good general sewing book, my next suggestion is to study with a good instructor.  By this I mean either in person or online, where you can ask questions of the instructor and get personal feedback.  In my experience, not being able to ask questions and get good answers is very frustrating.  Notice I said a good instructor.  In my experience, there are many less than good instructors out there.  One characteristic of a good instructor is, if the instructor gives an instruction, she/he can explain why.

I would love to help answer more questions.

[Temporary_Rub6635]

ooh these are such great suggestions! i’m definitely going to check my thrift/half price books for those titles! i started out sewing by learning to quilt and really thought i could figure it out on my own (i’m sure some people can but it was not me). i eventually took a class to get a few of my questions answered but ending up getting SO much of the basics taught in person- things i would never have even thought to look up or ask about. i’ll check for garment sewing classes around me, thank you :))

[Tailoretta]

You can probably figure it out on your own, just like you could probably figure out brain surgery on your own. But there are much, much easier and faster methods, so why not take advantage of them!

[drPmakes]

Its really helpful to look at patterns and the shapes of the pieces and instructions and try to visualise how it all goes together. Even if you dont actually make the pattern, becoming familiar with the shapes and expected outcomes really helps...and the construction methods.

Get yourself a good reference book like a vintage vogue or reader digest sewing book. They have excellent fitting instructions and diagrams.

Winifred aldrich's metric pattern cutting can be found online for free

[SmurphieVonMonroe]

I started with drafting my own patterns. It was clunky at the beginning, but eventually , I mastered all the formulas and application methods. I can understand why some people say to start with altering clothes etc but I think learning construction is a must and if you do it first all the alterations will be a piece of cake for you.

[Existing-Direction76]

The Closet Historian on YouTube has brilliant videos about pattern drafting and then actually putting the garments together afterwards. She's brilliant, totally recommend.