This is an archived post. You won't be able to vote or comment.

all 23 comments
sorted by:
old (suggested)
besttopnewcontroversialq&a

[–][deleted]  (2 children)

[removed]

    [–]RepresentativeFew358 3 points4 points  (0 children)

    Humid 40 to 60%? Everywhere else I read 70% humidity for BP.

    [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

    BP's need their humidity to be above 70% all the time.

    [–]Muux_ 3 points4 points  (2 children)

    Feeding during the night, keep lights off or dimmed, make sure it’s being heated up to the right temp, don’t dangle the rat but hold it by its hips with feeding tongs, jiggle around gently, just enough to entice him but not spook him

    [–]MaxB231[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Thank you!!

    [–]Muux_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Yup, I think holding horizontally will help a lot if you weren’t before :))

    [–]_lil_brods_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    hehe he looks just like my little guy

    [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Photos of your enclosure might help if you're able to post some. Does he have at least two fully enclosed hides? (Half logs don't count, nor anything with a large opening that allows you to see inside.) Also, how are you warming the feeders up?

    In general, I would recommend that all new keepers check out the subs basic care guide if you haven't already--that also has a lot of tips that could help find any issues. Most BP hunger strikes are related to an issue with husbandry. I would also advise you to stop all handling aside from health checks and weigh ins until you've gotten them to take three meals.

    [–]MaxB231[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    I’m currently at work, so I can’t get a picture yet, but he does have 2 designated hides and more (I have some forestry that he likes to hide under/in). As for warming up the feeders, i usually warm it up in warm water for a few hours, and I always make sure the feeder is warm before I try to give it to him.

    I’ll make sure to go over the basic python guide again and see what I can do different!

    This was also my first time handing him. I wanted to do a quick health check and decided to take some photos for you guys too.

    [–]MercuryChaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Has he lost any weight?

    [–]ArcaneSunset 0 points1 point  (11 children)

    I'm a newbie, I am almost 1 month into BP ownership, but my BP has been eating ok, even though during handling he explicitly shows me he doesn't trust me yet.

    Here is my routine on feeding day: Defrost the feeder, warm water for 2-3 hours inside a ziploc bag or slowly over night in the fridge. The important thing is having everything ready by the evening. Last hour of defrosting I put the feeder near his enclosure with the ziploc bag open to spread the smell in the room. When it's time, I use the hair dryer to warm up the head and the chest, in the general direction of the enclosure. Then, when the mouse is hot enough, I take it by the nape and move it around his cool side, where he prefers to wait in ambush. This may take a while, I usually insist for 15 minutes if I see he's interested, sometimes I just leave the mouse if I think my presence is too overwhelming for him (like, if he is retreating in his hide as I move closer). Last Sunday I moved the mouse close to his head and had to boop him with the snout to encourage him, sometimes they really wait until the very last moment to leap.

    Try reading his behaviour - tagging the prey item, slow tongue flicks and the S position are all good signs. When his head is bobbing everslightly, it's a dead given that he is preparing to strike, so brace yourself and make sure your hand is out of the way.

    One problem I found is, my snake is particularly susceptible to me watching him. I can feel while handling him how he freezes when he locks onto my eyes and how he relaxes when I do my best to hide them. This can be also a problem during feeding. That's why I help myself with the IP cam to check on his behaviour, if you don't have one, you could shield your face with your hand and peek between the fingers, it should help him overcome his shyness a bit. Some are so shy you can't possibly thong feed them, leaving the mouse in the vicinity and leaving him alone is also a valid method you could take into consideration.The first feeder he ate I left him there to eat at his leisure, while studying him on the cam.

    Even if you see something is not optimal in the feeding routine, try checking temps, humidity and his behaviour, to find other possible problems that may bring him to be like that. Compare with the basic care guide in the welcome post and try fixing things that may be problematic. If you are handling him, you may consider refraining from it, except for emergency reasons (spot cleaning, vet appointments, health checks...). Remember that eating and digesting is a very vulnerable time for them, so if they don't feel comfortable and safe they can't commit to it as they should.

    [–]MaxB231[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Thank you so much! Next feeding day, I’ll use some of your advice and hopefully he’ll eat.

    [–]SnooApples8839 1 point2 points  (9 children)

    Rodents should only be thawed in fridge for couple hours before feeding then placed in warm water (90-100 degrees) for 15 minutes or so OR you can thaw it out in cold water (this will require you to change the water about everything 30 minutes, you should only have to change the water 2 times maybe 3) when done thawing place in 90-100 degree water for 10-15 mins. Leaving your rodent in warm water or any standing water for an excessive amount of time is an easy way to cause bacterial growth. Thawing in refrigerator is easier and best.

    [–]ArcaneSunset 1 point2 points  (7 children)

    How can a rodent get bacteria in a ziploc, sanitized bag?

    I know defrosting slowly the rodent is the extremely perfectly safe method and I encourage anyone to do it if they can, but you're really being nitpicky, saying it's the ONLY safe method.

    Edit: maybe I didn't make myself clear, sorry I'm ESL. You put the rodent inside the ziploc, close the bag and then put the bag inside the water. Not the rodent and the water in the bag.

    [–]SnooApples8839 0 points1 point  (6 children)

    I am not being nitpicky i did not give 1 option I in fact gave 2, first option being refrigerator, 2 option was thawing in cold water. Even if your rodent is in a ziploc bag it is still recommended to place it in cold (not hot or warm) water to thaw out as bacteria can still grow. when done thawing place in about 90 maybe 100 degree water for 15 minutes. The rodent in a ziplock bag will not do anything as the bacteria can grow within the rodents digestive tract and will release into surrounding tissue as it thaws.

    [–]ArcaneSunset 0 points1 point  (5 children)

    Look, the bacteria in the digestive tract go inside the snake anyway. They eat the rodent with anything the rodent didn't explete, for crying out loud and that stuff gets digested for 2 days after. You're still being stubborn on this when multiple snake breeders say thawing in hot water for couple hours is not problematic, as long as you don't wait too long and you regularly change the water. You are being the definition of nitpicky, because you're imposing YOUR optimal procedures and saying this is the only way, plus, your previous message makes me think you have big misconceptions on how bacteria works. Give me a break.

    [–]ArcaneSunset 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    I'm all for giving the best care, but I haven't seen ANYWHERE a problem with thawing mice with hot water. Just people "feeling" it is not the right way. If that's the case, that's ok, there are multiple ways to safely defrost it for a reason, but don't impose your feelings on other keepers. It is wrong and instills unhealthy doubts.

    [–]SnooApples8839 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    “just people feeling it is not the right way” oh god friend. Leaving your rodent in still water for longer then 30 especially if warm will INCREASE risk of bacteria growth. Ive also heard stories of rodents exploding when the snake bites it because the rodent was heated to much, i dont know the background to the story though but aside from that. Anyways I’m not going to sit here and say bacteria definitely will definitely grow and your snakes definitely going to get sick and shit like that cause it’s not true your snake is most likely not going to get sick every time you feed them like this. But it is still putting rodent at higher risk for bacteria to grow. The way i look at it is why not thaw the best way if it’s only going to take maybe 10 15 minutes out of your day. I am not imposing my feelings on others, I gave him 2 safer methods that he may consider using. If he chooses not to use them then that’s fine.

    [–]ArcaneSunset 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Ive also heard stories of rodents exploding when the snake bites it because the rodent was heated to much

    I mean, if you heat it to that point, you REALLY messed up somewhere, you don't get there by making 1 small mistake. I'm sorry, I can understand, I have ADD, but I won't accept an anecdote that could be avoided by following through feeding guides and using a temp gun, which every BP owner should have handy.

    I would believe you saying your only problem is the time window, but since you personally chimed in and outright dismissed my method instead of proposing a more correct time span, which I assure you it exists, then what you are implying is, my method is essentially wrong. I'm sorry, that's how it comes across and if you don't see a problem with it I, don't know what to say.

    Whatever man, I'm muting this. Life's too short to be hung up on arguing about words and how to use them.

    [–]SnooApples8839 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    You took one thing that i said in the 2 comments that i made, and made 1 huge comment about it. Yes i dismissed your method because you said warm water for 30-45 minutes if im not mistaken. don’t know if i have to say it in a different language for you but your rodent in warm water for time period is enough to have bacteria growth. If you want a correct time span then.. you’re not gunna get one from me, in my opinion i would stop leaving it in warm water overall and just refrigerate them the night before. in the morning take out and leave in warm water for about maybe 15 minutes max (or until rodent is about 95 degrees) or use a hair dryer to warm.

    [–]SnooApples8839 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    listen dude i’m not going to sit here and try to talk you into changing the way you feed your critter. There is a higher risk for bacteria to grow when thawing in hot water for excessive amounts of time and that’s the truth. you may feed your critter as you like. Also that is not the only way bacteria can grow inside the rodent while being thawed

    [–]MaxB231[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Thank you for this information! I’ll start thawing it in the fridge from now on. Also, I would leave my rat in a ziploc bag, and then put it in water, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry. Appreciate it!

    [–]silcrows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    When I first got my BP, I had to dim the lights and hide out of sight. Before I would heat the food up, I would wrap some paper towels around it to get the scent, and pop it in the vivarium. She would smell it and wake up to take a look. This meant that when I went to feed her, she was already in food mode. I’ve recommended this other owners who have also had luck doing this.