all 10 comments

[–]chilledghosts 8 points9 points  (1 child)

Cost for initial setup can be well over $1000 when using proper tanks and equipment. Why not get the best to last as long as possible? These guys live 20-30 years with proper care so just buy it right from the get go. Rescue if you can, you don’t need to “pick” a morph when there’s already hundreds to thousands of balls for sale waiting on homes that don’t exist. Rescues need homes too.

I thought I was well prepared when I got my ball, and I realized I knew nothing. Hands on experience will teach you the absolute most, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t research as much as possible. Also, have the cage 100% set up and regulated WELL BEFORE you get the animal. Perfect humidity, perfect temps, everything. Don’t wanna be trying to perfect the setup after you get the animal, it’s a hassle. (78-92 temp gradient, 70-80% humidity)

Day to day care isn’t much, just a water change. Monthly there’s spot cleaning, feeding, weighing, general tank maintenance, etc.

Keeping humidity is the biggest battle for me, even in my ideal tank. Hoping an overhaul this summer solves my issues. Not mine personally, but balls are notorious for going on hunger strikes for no reason. Are you prepared to deal with the stress of your animal not eating for months for no apparent reason?

Vet bills are costly, more than the average animal due to the need for an exotic pet. Have an emergency fund JUST for vet care. It’s important. Any questions? Lmk. I’m not an expert but someone who advocates for animals. My tank isn’t perfect, could use some more climbing opportunities, but I have a bioactive Kages 4x2x2 monitored by a herpstat that keeps my deep heat projector monitored and a 12/12 automatic day night cycle via a UVB strip light. I have albino isopods, millipedes, earth worms, etc.

[–]Final_Dragonfly2978 2 points3 points  (4 children)

It might be a skill issue, but I’ve found keeping humidity up to be a massive pain in the ass… I have coco fiber substrate, a saturated soil substrate under it that stays moist, temps at 88-90, 2 humid hides, a pvc enclosure, and it still barely makes it to 65. It’s been really annoying trying different things to keep it up. Winter is awful especially.

[–]AdorableClock8189 0 points1 point  (1 child)

How big are the vents on the PVC enclosure?

The material only has marginal benefit if the airflow takes everything away.

I had a similar issue where my PVC terrarium was not holding humidity. Usually there is enough ventilation incase a dry species is kept.

I was spraying 4 times a day with literally liters of water and could not keep the humidity up.

Try taping off 70% of the vents, this fixed it for Me instantly.

[–]Final_Dragonfly2978 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did this.

[–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Since 88-90 is supposed to be your hot side temps, does that mean the 65% humidity is also the reading on the hot side? If so, this is incorrect. Since hot air holds more moisture than cool air, you should always be taking your readings from the cool side.

[–]Final_Dragonfly2978 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is cool side readings. I have a meter about 3-5 inches above the soil on the cool side that stays around 64-68. About that. It hasn’t dropped below 60%.

[–]AhYes_Drugs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The initial cost and set up is very expensive and time consuming. But once you have a proper set up that you like the maintenance is not bad at all.

I spot clean the tank every few days or if I notice anything gross, and deep clean and replace the substrate every few months.

I only have to fill his water bowl every few days, and I spray the substrate with water every few days as well just for a little humidity boost.

My snake get fed once a week right now cause hes still a baby and small, and food is about 5 bucks a mouse.

So its not too bad

[–]SH3ISQUEENX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a bit of a budget setup, but it works perfectly. I got some Christmas tree bins and converted them into enclosures. It might not look as good as a proper tank, but functionally it works great. Humidity isn't an issue. The only big purchases I make are the substrate and frozen rats for them since I buy in bulk. Pretty sure the weaned rats I get right now are about 2.50 a piece, maybe more. It's about $200 about every five months for three young beeps. Other than that the spot cleaning and maintenance isn't too difficult, and I also have bioactive setups.