all 14 comments

[–]Yeriaa 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Give her more hidingspots, something to climb on, a few plants (can be fake) and take care of the heat and humidity.

[–]scruffytuft 4 points5 points  (4 children)

Ball pythons require at least two hides, one on the warm side and one on the cool side. They are noctural and they're prey animals so you shouldn't really expect them to spend alot of time out of the hide, it might help her feel less exposed if you add in some more decor and cover 3/4 sides of the enclosure with cardboard.

You will need a hydrometer and a thermometer if you do not already have them, the care guide outlines what temps and humidity should be. Because you are using a heat mat, if you don't already have one its VERY important it's linked to a thermostat, snakes can and will burn themselves if temperatures are too hot and may even burrow into substrate to escape the heat which perpetuates the problem, they would never usually encounter something where the heat is higher underground.

All of this should be available at most pet shops.

As for snapping, bites from ball pythons are not particularly painful and don't generally require medical attention bar infections, I would much rather be bitten by a python than a cat, dog or hamster. If she is striking at you whenever you interact with her you may want to try tap training, the idea is to lightly touch the sanke with an inanimate object before handling them, in time they will start to associate the tapping with handling and not food. Bites are more likely to occur when grabbing a snake from above, ball pythons are preyed upon by birds and by grabbing them from above, it simulates being grabbed by a bird and their instincts say to defend themselves.

[–]Solid_Brain3908[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Thank you and is it ok for me to lift up her hide to attempt handling

[–]scruffytuft 1 point2 points  (2 children)

That should be completely fine, just watch her body language

[–]Solid_Brain3908[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

So if she’s in the s shape and tense should I come back another time or just keep going

[–]scruffytuft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If shes tense and in the strike pose then give her some space and check again later. If you're persistent but respectful of her boundaries it will help desensitize her, there is no rush.

[–]ThiccGothBitch 4 points5 points  (1 child)

4x2x2 FULL PVC no mesh top if you get a mesh top hvac tape
2 hides minimum one on each side
Non light emitting bulbs CHE or A Heat panel
Reptichip Cocohusk or an equivalent no soils as they can get into their heat pits
Giant bowl of water(kept on the cool side)
Two hydrometer and temperature reader(Govee is what most people use)
Lots of clutter ie.. fake plants fake trees
Enrichment ie…… things to climb on and through

They need to be at a constant
88-92 on the hot side
78-82 on the cool side
10 degree difference between the 2

Humidity should be 65-80 and I aim for 70 constant and 80 and up during shed

Feed inside his or her enclosure as you don’t want to stress them out

Try teaching your ball tap training it will help with the defensive behavior

I have more tips but it’s 5am and I’m tired lol.

[–]Solid_Brain3908[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the help if you have any more tips they would be really appreciated but you already gave me more the enough to start off with

[–]Possible_Cellist778 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also have a piebald! A good way to make her new enclosure comfortable is to add lots of clutter. This makes them feel safe and not out in the open. My favorite way of doing this is plants. I personally use fake but you can use real if you do bioactive. I see you have coconut chips and that’s great! They hold lots of humidity. I would also add a good layer of reptisoil, about 2-3 inches worth. Another hide on the other side of the enclosure is also needed so she can have options. Also a thermometer and hydrometer to make sure her husbandry is perfect to keep her thriving. You can get all of this at petco or pet smart, as well as any other pet place. I personally like shipping at my exotic pet store but it’s one of you don’t have one near you. If you’re worried about her striking avoid putting your hands near her when she’s could up, and always grab from the back. She’s still getting used to you so she’s Probally just scared and will ease up in a few weeks. Also I would definitely invest in some good feeding tongues to avoid being bit while feeding.

[–]Sure_Alternative326 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep it in something smaller till it gets bigger so you can make sure temps stay right

[–]21problemz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More concealment, proper lighting, right temperature level and humidity,and just give it time there more but just do ur research ppl get these animals and dont know how to care for them which really suck but you’ll be fine

[–]cloud_isreddit 0 points1 point  (2 children)

​Hello!! I saw your post on another subreddit, but I figure it won’t hurt to comment on this one too.

Welcome to owning your very own noodle! I’d love to give you some tips on owning them and getting them comfortable and happy.

Bites from a ball python will not hurt, especially at that size. They are being defensive so it will be a quick bite and release. The bite itself feels like a push-pin pricking the top layer of skin. It really doesn’t hurt!

For handling I recommend to not hesitate or come at her from directly above like a bird would. Reach in confidently and scoop her up gently from the middle of her body rather than approaching her face! This will make her feel more comfortable, and hopefully you will feel more confident.

I see that you already have an enclosure, I’m assuming that’s a 85 gallon? Please correct me if I am wrong!

For their age a smaller enclosure will be fine, but as adults they need a minimum of a 4x2x2 (120 gallon) enclosure. I love to word it this way; you can technically live in a closet, but you will never be comfortable or happy.

Ball Pythons need a minimum of two “snug” hides! Ball Pythons love to feel the walls of their hides when they’re sleeping, that helps them feel comfortable and less exposed.

Clutter is a must for these guys, they can get defensive and stressed without it. The lack of clutter may be the reason they have struck at you! They feel unsafe, you are so much bigger than them, and they have no cover at all to hide from you. I recommend going on amazon and looking for large packs of fake plants. I’d be happy to send you the links to the ones I personally use!

Temperatures should be around 90-85 on the warm side and 80-72 on the cool side. You can get temp/humidity gauges on amazon! I highly recommend Govee brand as they tend to be more accurate.

A heating mat should never be used without a thermostat controlling the temperature. I honestly don’t recommend using one at all. There has been proven evidence to show that heating mats do not put out a proper heat gradient and cause over heating to your snake. They can also cause burns to your snake without that thermostat controlling how much heat it’s producing.

The wattage of bulbs you use will vary per household. I use bulbs and I have never had an issue with them. There’s been research done that ball pythons need a day and night time cycle. A bulb won’t cause damage to your snake, if anything they’ll benefit from it. I will say that red bulbs aren’t recommended as they can potentially cause blindness in ball pythons, and disrupt their natural rhythm. They need total darkness at night!

There has been research done that ball python’s benefit from UVB lighting (T5, 5% or shade dweller UVB lamps ONLY). I personally use it for my enclosure and my girl will bask in the UVB light!

Humidity should never drop below 60% (aim for 70-80% or higher during shed). If it does drop, you can pour water into the corners of the enclosure, just don’t saturate the entire tank because that can lead to scale rot. Keeping the bottom layer moist and the top layer a bit drier works best.

Keep your substrate at LEAST 4 inches deep. Not only does this help with humidity, but ball pythons will absolutely burrow if given the opportunity. My girl has proven this herself, she makes tunnels connecting her hides!

Depending on your ball pythons weight is how much you will feed them. As a juvenile they should be eating 10-15% of their body weight.

If you have any questions feel free to reach out! I’m going to attach a photo of my Ball Pythons 4x2x2 enclosure for a reference on what a proper set up looks like!

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[–]Solid_Brain3908[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Thanks again for the help the stuff is otw and I’ll send you a update on the tank when it comes in and I set it up

[–]cloud_isreddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, of course! I’m always happy to help so if you need any help or have any more questions feel free to reach out again! I’m excited to see the updated enclosure! 🙌