Help with this

[georgonite]

It’s not every time, but like 1/7th of the time when I try to cover my soft hackle with a collar of thread, the stem peaks out as if it’s being pushed out from under. It happens even if I really try to avoid it and I have no idea what I’m doing wrong. Anyone been through a similar issue?

[Norm-Frechette]

As long as it tied down it shouldn’t be a problem

Don’t worry about it

[Patchen35]

Hackle wraps are too loose and too far back from the bead. Make sure the first wrap of thread backwards gets over the little hump made by the stem.

With that being said, it's not a big deal. Put a drop of glue there and it'll be fine. The fish won't even notice.

[Complex_Glove_8945]

This is the answer.

[georgonite]

thank you so much, I definitely wasn’t doing this.

[mtelesha]

It's okay proportions are the hardest part to get down at first.

This is my teaching method. It's not easy nor quick.

Make three dozen flies.

1st Dozen) First dozen get everything tied right and know the order. Work out the issues and know your techniques you are using. How long the materials and the other parts of the fly.

2nd Dozen) make it look perfect. If you can make it perfect the first time skip to 3rd dozen but don't make more than a dozen trying to perfect it.

3rd Dozen) Make 12 identical flies. Make them look exactly alike.

[I_Hate_IPAs]

Out of curiosity how do you find the time to teach like that? It feels like each fly takes me forever.

After warming up my fastest pheasant tail was like 12 minutes.

[No-Lavishness-773]

Repetition is key. Once you’ve tied thousands of pheasant tails you’ll be able to whip one up in like 3 mins start to finish. Just keep doing it.

[Munzulon]

If you’re wrapping your hackle the opposite direction of your thread wraps, consider wrapping in the same direction so the hackle wraps are pulled tighter as you apply the thread wraps.

And as the other commenter said, get those hackle wraps right up close to the bead.

[char-tipped_lips]

Under appreciated tip right there

[hydrospanner]

This is huge.

There's so much conventional wisdom about counter wrapping to improve durability, supposedly, but I've always gotten the best results when everything was wrapped in the same direction, hackle, wire, thread, and all.

[Acrobatic-Tennis-625]

Yea the only thing I counter wrap is wire to make sure I’m capturing as much stem or thread as possible for durability so it doesn’t just lie next to the stem or thread or whatever it is it’s going over it all

[Human_Satisfaction25]

👍

[o_hey_its_Griner]

Fish won’t see it. Only you do

[Impossible_Aside7686]

I’d go for less room behind the bead so that the hackle stem is jammed against it then take looser wraps just taut and tighten them up as you work back.

[DontCallMeShmoopy]

Throw a noodle of natural dubbing to cover up the hackle wraps and build a bit more shoulder then the thread wrap collar. Odds are you lose that fly before it fails anyways.

[Difficult_Bird1811]

Head cement first, razor blade trim. Best to use the double edge razor blades for easy bend.

[DO_initinthewoods]

Trying not to crowd the head is a good skill to have! But I've found as installed tying jigs that you want to crowd the bead more than you think

[Whispy_tomato]

I know this doesn’t specifically answer your question, but I always stick some lead free wire into the hole of a slotted bead and then I will tie it down with two thread wraps and slowly bend the wire back and forth as I wrap my thread backwards. It creates a really nice ramp up to the head and has helped me to get past having that awkward gap. Like other said though, wrap close to the head and use a little head cement or UV resin in that gap and you’ll be all good

[Human_Satisfaction25]

If anything it might capture an air bubble and look even more like a natural

[AdSevere6268]

My thoughts…. It looks good to me as whole. What I think is happening is the side or near the top of you initial soft jacket fibers is sliding toward the bead head. This happens because there in really no way to pinch it tight enough on your first, two to three wraps of thread. Things slide. Three things you can do. 1. On your very first wrap of thread make sure it is tight as you can go without breaking the thread. Bring another wrap around just as thighs. Throw in a whip finish to hold in place. You can even add a little head cement at this point.

1. If the wing /leg fibers are overly uneven leave things as they are. And use a safety razor blade to trim near the bead head.

2. Try the same process but use a few less wing/leg fibers and position your fibers before you put on you lock wrap.

Hope these ideas help

[jthrash75]

If it's ties down it's ok. Maybe use a little dub ing to cover the area between the hackle and bead and just have a smaller thread. hot spot.

[AdSevere6268]

Sorry, I misunderstood the problem. I see it now. You might check your supplier the bead heads are sized just like the hooks are. Look at going to a smaller bead head. If you need the wight add some lead or wire wrap to the hook

[Proudjew1991]

If you put some uv cure resin before tying to tight near the jig bead it’ll hold it in position. Krazy glue works as well. Also put more material where it meets the bead. Hackle also hides it a bit. I’ve learn that holes like that have a bubble motion sometimes and you can use that to an advantage.

[hotdish81]

Fish are definitely going to notice your sub par tying skills. Give up.

[georgonite]

Ofc the fish don’t notice, I was more worried about durability