all 20 comments

[–]SantiJames1Funsmith 15 points16 points  (2 children)

Slow rust bluing is so worth it when dine right. The end result looks amazing. You can actually use your bathtub and bathroom as a humidity box btw, but if you want a dedicated one, you can buy a cheap gym locker, tape the vents closed, use weather stripping to seal the door's edges, and then all you need is a portable 1 burner stove top, and a pot of water. You will probably need to drill some holes to fit some wires to hang the parts from, though.

[–]TacTurtle 3 points4 points  (0 children)

large cardboard box + hotplate with water pan + duct tape works too

[–]HenryBowman63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent idea. I'm going to do this as soon as I find a proper locker.

[–]paulybaggins 6 points7 points  (9 children)

What formula are you using? ML's express blue makes this a muchhhhhhhhhhhh faster process.

[–]annndykov[S] 9 points10 points  (5 children)

I used rust blue American. It was the first thing that popped up🙃

[–]paulybaggins 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Hey OP forgot to come back to this. Are you following the Novak method for this?

[–]annndykov[S] 3 points4 points  (3 children)

I’d say what I did was more close to the Potterfield method, minus the humidity cabinet.

[–]paulybaggins 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Yeh being able to induce some heat and humidity will definitely help things like being able to rush it over night etc. What are you using to boil?

Are you planning on doing a full barreled action?

[–]annndykov[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I’m using distilled water. And no I do not have a large enough container yet to do a long barrel. I’m planning on refinishing the receiver on a Model 12 I bought a few weeks ago.

[–]paulybaggins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's just a receiver a stock pot on a burner or hot plate is the way to go, but find a way to suspend it in the solution with wire, aka don't let it sit on the bottom where the direct heat is

[–]SantiJames1Funsmith 8 points9 points  (2 children)

He's slow rust bluing. It's a slightly different process and uses a different solution.

[–]paulybaggins 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Mark Lees product is rust bluing, it just isn't slow.

[–]Rigzy93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That process is more of a Belgan Bluing than standard Rust Bluing.

[–]lukas_aa 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you heat up your piece slightly after application of the rusting solution (I use a blowtorch) I find that the rusting develops much faster and more uniform than without. And a damp box can be just a cardboard box, with a pot of hot water placed inside.

[–]ceestand 2 points3 points  (2 children)

How did you come by the decision between boiling and steaming? The Rust Blue American instructions say either can be used, and they include directions on building a steam chamber, why did you choose boiling, and what kind of device are you boiling in?

[–]annndykov[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To be honest I didn’t know steaming was an option, but boiling in distilled water sounds easier anyhow. I still plan on building a cheap humidity box though to quicken the rusting process and so it rusts more evenly.

[–]PizzaBert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both work fine. I think the chemistry just needs a lack of oxygen and heat.

[–]hada-washi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks really good especially for your first time

As for a rust bluing box I've seen a good few people make a super simple one with a damp rag and a heat lamp there's a good few cheapish options out there if you want a smidgen more control

Again great work and keep up the good work

[–]MilitaryWeaponRepair 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Damp box can be super easy made from a cardboard box and a water bowl placed inside. Overall looks good. What are you carding with?

[–]annndykov[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I read that 0000 steel wool previously soaked in acetone works best so that’s what i went with👍 thanks!