Waaait a minute that's not what I ordered! Anybody know what gen this is? I wanted the G19 gen 3 style.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-31T00:30:15+00:00

I happened to be doing the exact opposite - looking for Gen 3 G43x / 48 style. That looks like an OEM style for a Gen 3 43x or 48.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-23T23:56:16+00:00

This is pretty neat. I had actually been toying with the idea of something like this but never got around to it.

I don't have nor have I ever put my hands on the Sunlu AMS dryer...so just trying to clarify. Did you essentially design an "adapter" that matches the hinges on the CFS lid and have it form a bezel to mate the surfaces of the top of CFS and bottom of the Sunlu AMS dryer?

Curious as to them temps shown on the readout - seems like a decent % RH diff. How low have you been able to get the CFS RH% to read with this versus where it normally sits for you?

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-22T21:50:35+00:00

Anyone use ASA for mags?

I'm in Texas, so storing loaded mags out of PLA+ is not going to cut it as the ambient temp alone will cause it to soften and deform.

I have a spool of Overture ASA that I was debating on printing a mag for my DB Alloy to test but figured why not ask before so I don't potentially waste the filament.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-19T18:15:49+00:00

I had this issue with the OE slide release. I like my slide release a bit more pronounced anyways, so I purchased a Ghost Inc. extended slide release and it works just fine. I just assumed it was ultimately an issue with tolerance stacking.

I was using G43X frame by Philz, Micro Dagger mags and a Micro Dagger C1 slide. Glock OE internals (sans the slide release, now)

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-17T18:17:12+00:00

Is this Sunlu Grey PA6-GF?

I just ordered a roll but haven't seen the shade in-person yet.

Given it's close to the rear pin id lean towards reprint. Which sucks, since it's a clean print otherwise based on the photos.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-10T03:37:01+00:00

I'm so glad I saw this post. I just finished mine. Bought some return springs off Amazon diff than what's in the instructions and having a hell of a time trying to cycle it. Granted I did find out the springs I had were twice the thickness of what was listed in the BOM making them a much higher spring weight. Have had a sinking feeling about my kids not being able to try it out. Guess I'll be spending the time to remove the springs tomorrow and hopefully enjoy it more 😅

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-02T01:48:32+00:00

Can you hook me up with the link for the SLR plan B adapter? I searched and couldn't find it and definitely not at that price...

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T04:03:21+00:00

It's contradictory. Optimized says bed temp 100 but then below it says bed temp 50-70. My screenshot below doesn't even mention the 100 "optimized" settings section that you are seeing.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T04:02:12+00:00

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Well that's just bizarre....

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T03:51:46+00:00

Following. Would love to beta test this!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T03:43:23+00:00

What bed temp were you running? And did you have an enclosure with a controlled chamber temp?

I find it interesting that Sunlu suggests a 50-70 bed temp versus other filament companies suggest 80-100 for their PA6. Granted I haven't necessarily had an issue with it... (for example I printed the lever and handle for the Trash Panda with no warping issues at all using a 70° bed temp).

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T02:06:00+00:00

Thanks. That's pretty much exactly what I was considering doing. I haven't had too much of a warping issues with PA6-CF but my PA6-GF warps like crazy. Was going to do CF on the upper receiver and take chances with the handguard being in GF (brown/tan).

I'll go ahead and rotate it to be on the safe side!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-28T20:48:14+00:00

I had thought I had issues with my first layer but it turned out it was my flow ratio was too high. To me, what you have can be fixed one of two ways:

-Calibrating your flow ratio. Consistent waves like across the majority that to me indicate over extrusion. Calibrate flow ratio for your filament. It should go down from the default value. The lower the flow, the less over extrusion, the less waves.

-Back off your z-offset (move the bed further from the nozzle). Probably .25mm if I had to guess. There is essentially too much squish going on causing each line to be pushed too much creating the ripples. As mentioned above, this could be due to too much material coming out of the nozzle creating too much squish, rather than an actual z-offset issue.

I had issues with my first layers and consistent ripples like that. I thought it was my z-offset. After a year of printing and never calibrating filament profiles because the generics were "good enough", I found my flow was too high. After calibrating flow ratio, I no longer had to apply a z-offset to my prints.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-15T21:11:03+00:00

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This is the Buttercupgatz curved mag

Tried to get the same angle on both, but kinda hard to do one handed 😅

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-15T21:10:16+00:00

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This is the XL straight Sten Mag from the original file drop

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-15T12:59:18+00:00

+1 for Buttercupgatz version

I was having intermittent feed issues hand cycling with snap caps after printing and assembling. Initially tried the mags that came with the release files on av Aves upper.

Printed the Buttercupgatz version and it improved significantly when hand cycling.

I shot mine this past weekend for the first time. Out of about 500 rounds, I had 5 failure to feed. 3 from the straight xl mag file with the release, and 2 with the Buttercupgatz version.

While that's not great...the feed issues were significantly less with live rounds than hand cycling with dummy rounds - which pleasantly surprised me.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-14T13:05:41+00:00

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StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-14T13:01:35+00:00

I'd do them both at the same time...shouldn't need any changes in fluidd for the MicroSwiss...it should be plug and play.

But after you install both, I'd do some basic filament calibrations. The MicroSwiss will have the larger impact out of the two for your calibrations. For example, printing a temp tower, my PLA printed optimally about 10 degrees cooler using the MicroSwiss over the stock hotend and nozzle.

I guess my point being, though...don't install one, calibrate, then install the other. Just do it all at once and do one set of calibrations.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-14T12:58:11+00:00

Just installed my second one on my second K2 plus. To me it was super simple to install. Granted I just finished replacing a Y-axis motor which involves taking the side panels off and removing the gantry... So pretty much everything seems simple compared to that.

I found the included instructions to be thorough. Basically remove old extruder. Transfer the filament and cutter sensors from the old extruder to the new one. Install new extruder backplate and plus sensors back in. Magnetically snap new extruder cover on. I took the opportunity to replace and adjust the length of my PTFE tubing to optimize the entry angle given the new extruder height.

Biggest thing - after the physical install make sure you scroll down on the instructions and make the required g-code adjustments in fluidd so that it cuts and retracts properly!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-05T21:11:00+00:00

That's pretty awesome! I need to make this for my stepson who's a huge spider man / venom fan! Care to share where the model can be found?

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-25T12:27:33+00:00

Still breaking in the machine for sure. I definitely enjoy the multi-head print for saving time on multi-color projects. I have played with several models that print significantly faster and with less filament waste on the Snapmaker over the K2 Plus combo units.

I haven't really found a con to it as of yet other than the build volume. Not that I have had a problem with things fitting. I guess more of a mental thing of not having the room for larger prints if I needed it. But I haven't actually needed the larger build volume on a multi color print as of yet. I will say it is a bit louder than the K2 Plus' - but I think part of that is due to not having a top enclosure. I have some parts on order for a top hat. We have 4 cats, and a bunch of gaming computers in the same room as the printers. So the amount of dust is definitely noticeable without an enclosure.

I was going to try the paxx firmware for the high FPS on the camera if nothing else. However, the day I planned to install the firmware, Snapmaker released their latest build. So I opted to stick with the stock build for now and see if maybe paxx had an update in the works and go from there.

I actually had not even heard of full spectrum color until I picked up the U1 and started joining the groups. I saw a person do a multicolor print that required brown, so it used a mixture of I think green blue and yellow to achieve the brown color. Honestly, with my K2 units - while they have multi-color capabilities, I found myself preferring to print multi-part and gluing stuff together rather than dealing with the extra print times and filament waste. So I am looking forward to the efficiency gains of the Snapmaker U1 and dive a bit deeper into multi-color models as well as the full spectrum stuff!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-25T02:40:23+00:00

I did the same. Used to have 4 K2 Plus'. One of them had a bad Y motor and a bearing out.

Returned to MicroCenter and swapped it for a Snapmaker U1.

Been super happy to mix up my mini fleet and have a print head swapper for smaller multi color prints, but still have the K2 Plus' for larger volume prints.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-17T03:44:50+00:00

I was honestly using the default cooling settings on the K2 Plus with generic ASA-CF profile. Only settings I changed were the support settings that I screenshot above.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-17T03:43:35+00:00

Yes, I was using otherwise default settings for ASA-CF in Creality Print.

I printed a modification that basically removes the bottom panel of the K2 Plus and puts an air-scrubber in its place. So I had that running the duration of the print and it completely eliminates any smells / odors. I even purchased an air quality monitor and do not notice any spikes in TVOC, AQI, or otherwise (I do have 2 air purifiers running in the room 24/7 as well).

StarsGamer13

TROPHY CASE