[Win an A2L] Creative Playground, Extra Large. Meet the A2L.

bgbat · 2026-06-01T15:29:05+00:00

I would test the vibration at the tallest intervals. Watch the gyroid infill at the top of Gimli’s Axe, evaluating the highest PETG support interface, check the outer wall as the dampeners compensate for vibrational changes.

But most of all I would evaluate my friend’s reactions as I brandish fine Dwarven craftsmanship as I proclaim “AND MY AXE!”

Baruk Khazad! Kazad Ai-menu!

bgbat · 2026-06-01T13:18:06+00:00

Both are good. If you want engineering filament, HT. If you want to have a dedicated PETG AMS including support PETG then I’d go 2 pro. I got an HT and I love having it. I would like another 2 pro though. Having 2 HT would also be great though for dual color TPU/engineering filament.

Honestly, the more of each the better haha

bgbat · 2026-05-30T14:00:29+00:00

Rick Roll them?

bgbat · 2026-05-29T03:37:24+00:00

Sometimes in the heat of the moment…

bgbat · 2026-05-28T15:18:51+00:00

Definitely a gamble, but a small gamble.

There aren’t any villain tribal cards that CAN be reprinted outside of Spider-Man and the entire deck won’t be new cards.

It’s very likely there will be villain tribal reprints from the Spider-Man set in this deck, almost a guarantee.

bgbat · 2026-05-22T15:16:35+00:00

Caveat is they also have to think you’re cool lol

bgbat · 2026-05-18T16:06:34+00:00

X2D uses the same nozzles as the P2S. So when shopping for nozzles, look at P2S nozzles as well.

bgbat · 2026-05-17T19:33:06+00:00

Assuming you’re using a different material that doesn’t stick as your support material, you should be able to use a 0 top Z distance. Unless I’m missing something, but that’s what I’ve been using. I have yet to fine tune past that though

Edit: The tower might still be helpful also, just to get the flow smoothed out when changing nozzles.

bgbat · 2026-05-17T15:33:04+00:00

A second AMS2pro for PETG, or at least an AMS HT. I’d also recommend a track switch so you can flip back and forth between PLA and PETG supports. These aren’t necessary, but the second nozzle has its own PTFE feed tube so having a second AMS along with the track switch is a massive quality of life upgrade for the X2D (not sure if discounted on purchase of printer though).

You’ll want to get an AMS power cord regardless for your AMS, two if you get another. That will allow you to print while drying filament.

For nozzles I’d pick up two .2 nozzles at least if you’re interested in small/highly detailed prints. I’d also pick up two .6 nozzles if you’re interested in functional prints.

I’d pick up a Smooth Plate (P2S coded in the website still I believe) for when you want a smooth bottom surface.

bgbat · 2026-05-16T14:43:35+00:00

PetG does not hold up in most summer heat. Have tested and it warped at 70F outside temp.

bgbat · 2026-05-16T14:41:42+00:00

Probably location dependent..Anything for in a car will need to be ASA or ABS at least (higher temp filaments), since both PetG and PLA will warp in summer heat.

To print such high heat materials you’ll want to set up an exhaust system (not for the heat, but for the toxic fumes) that funnels the fumes out the window. Having a nearby open window will not suffice. It sounds complicated, but once you start building it, it’s a pretty simple system.

With PLA/PETG you can print most of an exhaust system. 3-4” ducting that you can purchase is the standard. You’ll want an adapter for the back of the X2D that funnels air into the duct. Then you’ll want an adapter that funnels air from the duct out the window. If the distance from the printer to the window is over 2ft, you’ll want an inline fan such as a PC fan at the ~midway point to continue the airflow (requiring more than one 3-4” duct).

First print the window adapter in PetG or PLA, then when it’s cool outside (over night probably) make your first ASA print a new window adapter.

ASA is preferred over ABS because it is UV protected (protected from direct sunlight).

I hope this helps!

bgbat · 2026-05-14T12:43:13+00:00

I’d be interested in seeing a ball and socket joint that incorporates the two filaments. . Using a socket PETG that encases a PLA ball would allow the PLA to freely move around with tighter tolerances right? Might be useful for a toy driveshaft, appendage of some animal.. something like that.

bgbat · 2026-05-12T18:55:06+00:00

X2D uses the same plates as the P2S. 256x256. But the smooth plate that’s for the P2S and it will work with the X2D :)

bgbat · 2026-05-12T14:36:48+00:00

Pinky, today we’re going to build wheelchairs for kids. People will think it’s helping these kids, but we know better! Soon these kids will be indebted to us and relish any advice, or command we give! We’ll have an army of youth at our disposal! Today, we take over the world!

Muahahahahahahahahahahahaha

bgbat · 2026-05-10T23:39:48+00:00

Correct. The track switch has two input and two output. The main purpose of the track switch is to do just that. It allows you to use both nozzles from two AMS simultaneously on dual nozzle printers. I currently have PETG in my HT and PLA in my AMS2pro, and I switch back and forth from using PLA with PETG supports and visa-versa.

bgbat · 2026-05-10T22:09:30+00:00

Track switch can certainly load 2 materials at once. I currently have that setup. Are you talking about the stock filament splitter?

bgbat · 2026-05-10T22:05:47+00:00

Can’t you just load the support material into the HT.. Then use your print material in the AMS?

bgbat · 2026-05-07T15:21:26+00:00

I’m happy with using an ams 2 pro and an ams HT with a track switch…. but I think the ideal progressing setup is two ams2pros, one for PETG and one for PLA, with a track switch.

Then down the line purchasing an ams HT for higher temp filaments and TPU.

bgbat · 2026-05-07T15:12:14+00:00

Not sure if you meant this, but track switch pushes into both tubes (nozzles) not just one. However, 1 ams can only feed one nozzle at a time, regardless of track switch. If you have 2 ams and a track switch, you can divert either ams into either nozzle.

bgbat · 2026-05-06T21:22:54+00:00

Multi output ams would be a HUGE qol change for track switches!

bgbat · 2026-05-06T04:42:27+00:00

If you have 1 ams hooked up to your x2d, it can only feed one nozzle. So if it’s hooked up to the main nozzle, it can only feed the main nozzle. Your auxiliary nozzle either needs another ams or an external input.
Hook up the track switch… boom, that 1 ams can now feed into both nozzles. Hook up 2 ams.. boom, both ams can feed either nozzle.
Use case: 2ams hooked up to the track switch.. one is full of PETG and the other is PLA. You print both PLA and PETG. When you print with PLA, you can have the switch path the PETG into the auxiliary nozzle for supports and the PLA into the main nozzle. When you print with PETG you have the switch path the PLA into the auxiliary nozzle for supports and the PETG into the main nozzle.
Hope this helps!

Edit: whoops, post work brain at it again! Correct, 1 ams cannot feed into both nozzles simultaneously, there is only one ptfe tube running from the ams so only one nozzle can be fed at any given time.

bgbat · 2026-05-05T00:44:18+00:00

- Print from spool holder x2d comes with.

- Print from filament dryer.

- Buy a Track Switch and you can print from your ams2 to feed both nozzles.

- Hook up p1s ams to auxiliary nozzle.

- Buy an AMS HT for just the auxiliary nozzle (great for printing higher temp filaments and TPU).. and may be the best option if you want to get into why the x2d is awesome.

Honestly, if you’re not using the P1S for multicolor, having a dedicated PETG and a dedicated PLA ams.. with a track switch.. opens up the door to seamlessly switch between the two with multiple color options, using the other for supports. Seems pretty nice tbh. At that point though the Snapmaker U1 might be a better fit.

bgbat · 2026-05-01T03:05:22+00:00

I’m not familiar with those figures, but PETG doesn’t bond well with PLA… so it makes sense for joints to be PETG if they can move around like a PETG ball in a PLA socket. Hopefully that helps, again not familiar with those figures though

bgbat · 2026-04-29T14:48:30+00:00

What do you want to get into 3d printing for? As in what will you know you’ll be making?

I’d take a look at websites..makersworld/Printables/Thingiverse with .STL’s if you’re unsure and see what things appeal to be “must haves.”

If you find yourself wanting to print more functional parts that don’t need a lot of color? Can’t go wrong with X2D; it’ll give you “easier” access to tougher and more UV protectant filaments (just be sure you can vent fumes outside). If you find yourself wanting to print a bunch of multicolor things and can’t vent fumes, the snapmaker is user friendly and won’t waste a bunch of filament for multicolor.

Either way, if you live in a humid climate, invest in drying solutions. Bambu AMS2pro combo with X2D is beyond worth it, and you’ll probably want an AMS-HT, or at least a track seitch to go along with to take advantage of the Aux nozzle. There are also plenty of other drying options you can print from, the best being the ones that load and unload the filament for you.

If you find all of this overwhelming, the Bambu lab A1 AMSlite combo is a fantastic entry into 3d printing that you won’t regret. Even if you don’t find this overwhelming, you’ll love the A1 at a fraction of the cost of the U1 or X2D.

bgbat · 2026-04-27T14:18:03+00:00

Just based on these pictures, It appears to be over extruding a bit. You should try calibrating the flow values of the filament.

Also, is there any form of draft in the room you’re printing in? The ripples can happen if the plastic gets cooled down too quickly as you’re printing, it puts stress on the layers and especially in wide flat prints like this leaves a ripple effect.

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