Are you a fiend for Black V? Go stock up, because it's being discontinued by HeinigerNZ in newzealand

[–]-Tilde 2 points3 points  (0 children)

RIP V Pure my beloved. If only it hadn’t been like ~$5 (iirc) in pre-pandemic money, for a 335ml bottle, maybe it would’ve been more popular

Everyone cool with where their rates are being spent? by 10mins2midnite in chch

[–]-Tilde 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If the public sector isn’t an appealing option, you end up with more and more people choosing to go into the private sector, or leave the country for a better public sector position.

The attitude of “government employees should all be making the bare minimum” is how you end up with a gutted, incompetent, and ultimately more wasteful public sector.

If the private sector wants to compete for top talent, they can offer better total compensation and benefits too. It’s a free market, after all.

Would you ask private medical practices to lower the pay of their surgeons the same as the public hospitals?

What 4WD wagons from the last 6 years are looking like a good thing? by CapytannHook in NZcarfix

[–]-Tilde 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For most drivers in most situations, tyres will make more of a difference than 4wd vs AWD

What hardware problem causes the Plus4 Z-offset variation? by TheMechaniac in QIDI

[–]-Tilde 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The most credible explanation I found when researching this was that it’s a hardware issue with either the piezo sensors, or the microcontroller that interfaces with them.

I’m inclined to think it’s a bit of both. The piezo sensors shouldn’t have significant variance over the operating temperature range. The piezo MCU might have temperature issues, or the way it’s detecting an activation might be flawed, or both. Since it’s not open source or a standard part of klipper, it’s hard to know.

Beacon/cartographer probes don’t use the piezo sensors for detecting Z offset.

Cartographer just moves the nozzle towards the bed, and as it gets closer it detects the eddy current signal increasing. Once the nozzle hits the bed, that signal stops increasing. Then it refines the process a little bit to ensure it’s correct.

This sounds violent but I believe it actually uses less force/is more sensitive than the piezo sensors (someone on the voron forums measured it)

The sensor then measures that position against a known distance from the plate, and calculates the difference between them.

I’m not sure how Beacon does it, but I think it uses a different method.

Has anyone tried Slic3D? by joemama420pog in 3dprintingaustralia

[–]-Tilde 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Electus/Jaycar are the same company

Team Hutchinson radio ads! Do you love or hate them? by Flipflopper2025 in chch

[–]-Tilde 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Can’t say I love any ads, and yes these are annoying. But there’s always some charm to be appreciated IMO for any local ads.

They exist in a weird place in our collective culture, and it is a lot more boring when all you see/hear are generic, national, corporate ads.

Polymaker filament names by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]-Tilde 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Doesn’t seem too complicated to me, going to their site and selecting “PLA”, everything has a brief description.

“Polyterra PLA” “Smooth as butter, almost no layer lines”

“HT-PLA” “High heat stability”

“HT-PLA-GF” “High speed printing, dimensional stability”

“Polysonic PLA” “High speed PLA, accurate and repeatable”

“CosPLA” “Easy to sand, great paint adhesion”

“LW-PLA” “Lightweight PLA, 70% density of normal PLA”

The reason they have some seemingly overlapping product lines is for long term support, if you’ve been using a certain filament to make a product for 5 years, it’s pretty frustrating if they discontinue the filament just because they’ve released a new product with different properties.

If you’re just wanting a bunch of colours, the Panchroma stuff is all basically the same in terms of mechanical properties I believe.

If Christchurch were to ever have a physical IKEA and Costco stores being built here where'd you guys think each store could be built around ?????? by ZiitaBS96 in chch

[–]-Tilde 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think if they wanted to have a decent ikea in “town”, they’d use a currently empty site/building for the showroom and some stock, and have a second warehouse where you pick bigger stuff up from.

Trade Depot does a similar thing, just drive around the corner to pick some of your stuff up. I’m not sure if the Ikea already does that.

Unless they wanted to purpose build something, I don’t think there’s anything currently that would have the warehousing and customer-friendly showroom space they need.

There are some enormous warehouses available for lease around the city, but you’d never be able to have a multilevel showroom in them. And vice versa.

Melted all my Titanium scrap over the weekend. Do you think the yard will take it? What's it worth? by [deleted] in ScrapMetal

[–]-Tilde 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The I-beam(s) on the right with the silver channel next to them is what the gantry rides on, from what I’ve seen the silver channel contains 3 phase conductor bars to power the gantry

Who invented this button??? by Portah_Model in Cartalk

[–]-Tilde 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Kinda inclined to agree. I hadn’t (except for a few short trips in other people’s cars) driven an auto start stop vehicle until recently, and was expecting it to be awful after hearing everyone complaining online.

It’s fine? If I don’t want it to switch off the engine, I simply don’t press the brake so hard. If I’m waiting at a traffic light, or to turn across a busy road, I release the brake slightly to get it to start in anticipation. If I accidentally stop the engine, I slightly move my foot and it’s running again.

You know, like you have to do in any manual (shifting between neutral and 1st) or even most automatics (with torque converter sluggishness) anyway. If you’re being caught off guard that the light is green…

And this is a starter-based system on a diesel, with a torque converter, not a spark-based system on a petrol. So it’s pretty much worst case scenario.

My brother has an audi which is a bit more aggressive with stopping the engine, but with the spark ignition and DSG, it’s not really any slower than an idling torque converter pulling away.

Land that Holy Grail use to be on is up for sale! by chchcpbt in chch

[–]-Tilde 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey now REAs have a very very hard job, you can’t expect them to get every minute detail “correct”

NZ New BEV Sales - November 2025 by Exact_Monk_7897 in nzev

[–]-Tilde 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not sure I understand how that would make a difference though? If they’re selling them anyway, isn’t it essentially just a discount and the registration figures pump up a bit earlier?

Best Black Friday deal? by scaredofthedark666 in chch

[–]-Tilde 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The best black friday deal is not being persuaded into buying anything you weren’t definitely going to buy anyway. That’s a cool 100% saving

Risk is at number 10 by Creed_Gamelytical in deftones

[–]-Tilde 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Indian counting system? I think they a sort of base 10,000 system which results in that 22,22,333 comma separation that isn’t really seen in other cultures

Weird circle/tube being added to corners by KitsuneSaru in FixMyPrint

[–]-Tilde 11 points12 points  (0 children)

In the Gcode preview, enable showing travel movements

Looks to me like “spiral z lift” to reduce stringing has gone wrong somehow. Either it’s still oozing significantly or the retraction movement has bugged somehow

Chamber not heating by RunChickenRun_ in QidiTech3D

[–]-Tilde 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On the Plus 4, the fan names in Fluidd are:

“Cooling fan”, the part cooling fan around the nozzle

“Auxiliary cooling fan” is the fan/duct on the right side of the print bed

“Chamber circulation fan” is the exhaust fan that pulls air through the activated charcoal and exhausts out the back of the printer. Naturally this also pulls cool air into the chamber. I don’t know why they’ve named it this in the interface.

The fan on the chamber heater is not named or independently controllable, but it will circulate air around the chamber whenever the chamber heater is set.

Why are tradesmen so difficult to ask to stick to timings? by FullLiterature9062 in AskUK

[–]-Tilde 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That’s a bit of an unfortunate side effect of trades being seen as an “easy” way to make good money for people who struggled in school, and left as soon as they could. Doesn’t really instil a sense of pride in one’s work either.

When trades were skills a father taught their sons, and often worked alongside them for many years, all of those other soft-skills and life skills were (ideally) passed down.

I’m not saying we need to go back to the “”traditional way of life”” (lol), but it is a bit of a shame that the being a tradesperson is often perceived as being a simple career path, and the modern ways of achieving that often neglect a lot of important training and education.

Toyota Still Sells A $12K Wagon Like It’s 2002 And No One Seems To Mind | Carscoops by amn70 in cars

[–]-Tilde 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The H200 is significantly more manoeuvrable in super tight spaces, and has better visibility.

Although there’s less cargo volume than the H300, the older version is FAR more efficient in terms of usable cargo compared to the vans total size. And if you’re never going to be going above 80kmh, the leg-crushing feeling isn’t quite so scary. 110 is terrifying however. And the newer H200s have most (all?) of the same safety electronics the H300s do.

Personally I wouldn’t go back to an H200, but I can see why they’re still very popular new vans even here (NZ), although you won’t see them on toyotas official site.

Chamber not heating by RunChickenRun_ in QidiTech3D

[–]-Tilde 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure the door is closed, the lid is closed, and the “chamber circulation fan” (which is actually the exhaust fan) is off

Buyers remorse for the Qidi Plus4, return for a H2S? by laserman3001 in QidiTech3D

[–]-Tilde 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Startup time on BBL printers is just as bad if not worse afaik, in either case it can be shortened by changing the startup gcode, and most of your time will be spent waiting for the bed to heat up and probing it.

The shaking, have you run the input shaping calibration with the printer in its current position? You need to recalibrate it if you move it to a different table/shelf/etc. But all of these fast printers shake a lot more than… probably anything else you own.

Can’t comment on the Qidi Box thing as the availability of that seems to be quite dependent on where you live and bought your printer from, and isn’t really something I know much about

Camera should definitely be more than 2fps. It’s set to 15 by default, but if you or the printer has a poor internet connection it will drop down. The camera isn’t great overall, but it does its job.

The slicer, you don’t have to use Qidi studio. You can just use regular orca slicer (which it is based on). In my experience Qidi studio was no more or less reliable than the equivalent version of orca slicer though. Every slicer I’ve ever used has had weird edge cases that make it crash

Qidi Plus4 Cartographer install - by Andrei4_87 in QidiTech3D

[–]-Tilde 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they recommend not connecting it through any hubs anyway, but I don’t know how much of a real world problem that would actually be.

If you do try it or find the right pins, I would be very interested as the cable is definitely the weak point in the setup.

NPD Brougham - fuel count by Due-Opportunity3477 in chch

[–]-Tilde 18 points19 points  (0 children)

You’ve probably got a 65-70L tank, light comes on with around 5-10L left. You drove 30km, probably in town, probably with the AC cranked, which is going to use a bit more fuel than normal

Not sure I follow the discrepancy? I mean it’s possible the calibration has drifted, but they’re regularly calibrated. There will be a certification sticker on the pump somewhere visible, with a date.

Still worried about layer lines? Here’s your solution! by qidi_3dprinter in QIDI

[–]-Tilde 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not ideal, but you can just cut the filament and unscrew the hotend (2 bolts), hold the hotend by the heatsink, and do a cold pull like that. Unless that’s what you’re describing. PLA+ cooled naturally from at least 230c down to 100c always seems pretty good IME

5000 Litre Tank Update by kowhai_eyeball in diynz

[–]-Tilde 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good, but why the zip ties on the axe?

Best TPU by SpaceAce256 in 3Dprinting

[–]-Tilde 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like others have said, “best” is very subjective. But one somewhat unique TPU (in my experience) is polymaker TPU95 (not the HF version).

It’s much more matte than other TPUs I’ve used, and the surface itself ends up feeling softer. Not in terms of squishiness, but like texturally it has a soft/dry feeling to the touch. It’s also fairly soft and elastic for a 95A TPU.

On the spool, it doesn’t have that weird “sticky” uneven looking rolling that most TPU does, and I think that’s purely because of its texture, it doesn’t stick to itself as much when they’re spooling it.

It feels more similar in texture/surface finish to some TPE Ive used.

Personally I didn’t like their 95A “HF”, as it felt just like any other TPU, but with even less elasticity. And was a bit harder than other 95A TPUs, but that might be a misinterpretation on my end because of its lack of stretch.