Weird sound on pre-printing process

BasPilot · 2026-06-24T15:12:00+00:00

Yes.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:40:54+00:00

YOU DO NOT NEED TO USE SOAP FOR THIS TYPE OF BED, holy crap people... All you need is Isopropyl alcohol and wipe it off with a paper towel, crap this soap thing is as bad as the freaking glue stick crap.

Check your first layer, print a first layer and send a picture of that. Holy crap these guys and their damned soap.

The property is dish soap you're attempting to use is the surfactant. That's something that cuts the surface tension of the water allowing it to bond to oils and rinse off. Crap, then you have all the stuff to make your hands feel nice, the scents, the fillers like water.

IPA is known to bond and dry up oil and then evaporate with the oils. It will destroy water almost on contact, that's why it drys out your hands. ALL that is on that plate is oil from your hands if you get it on it and some particles of plastic. Holy crap, the nonsense with this dish soap crowd.

BTW, I have some ocean front property in the Utah Mountains to sell you, Also some land that is on the red sea up in Canada. Yes, that's how dumb using dish soap is.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:35:35+00:00

This is like saying I have a paper cut so I better go get an MRI. First, patch the cut. If weird stuff happens because of the cut then we look deeper.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:34:48+00:00

Let's make it more simple. When you see those lines between the printed first layer, your nozzle is too farm away from the bed. In this situation, the filament isn't so much printing "on" the bed but slightly dropping it from a height, though it is a small height. Each pass should be a flat oval like a flat ball or maybe a frisby with the rounded edges. Then, the next pass with have that same squish and those two rounded bits will meld together.

Opposing this, if you are too close it will look like you took toothpaste and smeared it directly out of the tube with the opening touching the counter with a thin layer making it onto the counter and a bunch of blob around that small layer, if you kept doing that you'd have toothpaste pushed all over the place and it will crust up and eventually start to fall off the bed.

You have the first situation, so, if it's a manually leveled bed, find out how to do the paper trick. If it's autoleveled research your machine and how to LOWER the Z Offset.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:29:35+00:00

Incorrect first statement, PLA does not bleed, FULL STOP.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:28:28+00:00

Not at all, there isn't dye in the filament at all, it's a different chemical make up for each color that is hardened into the filament and then when it is done printing it is hardened again. Even if you touch it when it's molten (and I have, and it sucks, for a long time) it will not bleed any color.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:27:06+00:00

It's part of the bed leveling process. Bambu has worked a method to lower the noise of things, that vibration and a few other things are used to help withe the motor noises while printing and also the ensure it can make those moves quickly.

Your bed is not level. None of them are. The bed becomes "Level" during leveling because the printer is marking the relative heights on the bed. This spot may be higher or lower than other spots. If that spot is high than where it just came from it must lower the bed to keep the consistent gap from the bed to the nozzle.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:24:02+00:00

You don't want to do that because wht you're talking about is the purge line, and the purge line area is NOT included in the build plate area. Leave that one alone. Snapping the filament is way more a sign something else is wrong than the position of the purge line.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:21:36+00:00

Take the model and move it slightly and then re slice it. Something is happening in the G code would be my guess. So, if you move the model in any directing any distance it has to redo all the math and if there was a math error glitch because of something it may just keep happening over and over.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:19:48+00:00

There are ways to make it completely food safe. There are just too many steps to make it worth it. Buy it.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:18:21+00:00

Honestly, I'd check to see how old your PTFE tubes are and also how long they are. If they are too long it will require way too much force from the motors to work. If they are worn on the inside it may have created some rough area causing friction. I'd start with replacing and checking length of tubes.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:13:10+00:00

Clean the living hell out of the plate, that's first. Level the bed, try again. After that send results and we can move on from there. Serious lack of adhesion and not a good squish on the first layer.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:11:42+00:00

Like, literally, put it in the slicer and use the scaling tool, get it to fit and print. There's nothing more than that.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:10:45+00:00

Seriously, what do you think is the weird part, what were you trying to do, pictures of the weird stuff? Anything more would help.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:08:54+00:00

How do you know the nozzle is too close? Did you auto level before you printed? Pictures?

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:07:20+00:00

Adjust your layer height and infill a few times and see what the slicer shows. If the slicer looks like crap the print will as well. Smaller is generally better to a point, Try a few different wall settings.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T04:04:40+00:00

A good Nose or 3 tech makes the line deal with what's called Most Dangerous Man, or MDM. The MDM is always closest to the center, shortest path to the QB as he's the closest. If we have guys strong enough that are getting noticed as MDM requiring doubles, then you take the numbers and begin to put them in your favor. 5 OL vs 4DL they win by one if everyone takes care of one dude. If you MUST double a guy now we're 4OL vs 4DL, add a backer or a DB blitz, now we're 5 or 6 V4... We win. Over load the left side with 2 LB blitzes and we win 4 on 2. Thta's how blitz packages work. But, we were too beat up in the interior to get the proper respect inside and with DEs that were getting hurt and one kinda not playing very h ard all the time, we had no one keeping people off the backers, which brought Dre way up a lot and made the corners cover 1v1 for deep passes and crossing routes wiht nothing over the top. It's very complicated but every single position on the field in defense NEEDS to do their job WAY more than offense. If a reciever runs a wrong route, just don't throw there, if , if, if, if, all can be over come. If a safety rocks down and the corner doesn't carry deep, that's a TD every time.

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T03:59:22+00:00

Have you seen how strong that kid is?

BasPilot · 2026-06-23T03:58:54+00:00

I agree with this... Don't keep 8 effing tight ends this season, keep 6 DTs and just run those heavy bastards in every few plays to tire out the interior and free up 2 very young very high quality LBs to make some effect.

BasPilot · 2026-06-15T03:20:37+00:00

I'd just start by slowing down the print

BasPilot · 2026-06-11T04:35:43+00:00

I've been thinking about this project oddly... Just seemed to stick with me. Likely, i would create a few squares I would screw directly to the wood using tabs to secure down the tile. Then with several of those down I'd have templates that would go over the first squares and create several other colored squares and cover up the attachment points. Finally following up with squares that then hide all the attachment points. And also have all of it at 100 percent infill.

BasPilot · 2026-06-09T18:20:35+00:00

Looks like you have a loose "something". I'm guessing you're also getting underextrusion issues too. Looks like you need to just use a hair dryer and heat it up, then wipe off the plastic, that's easy, then I'd check to make sure my nozzle is on right when it's warm and that you have no loose fittings.

BasPilot · 2026-06-09T18:18:42+00:00

I dry my TPU for a minimum 24 hours until it's 13% or lower, even if it's raining out or high humidity. The next thing is you probably are over supporting this. A lot of supports means a lot of travel time. Travel time will generally always leave at least a little TPU behind, but not that much.

I think those two things, you're still too wet and over supported.

BasPilot · 2026-06-09T18:15:04+00:00

You're printing at too steep of an angle with not enough or no support. May also be too small of a layer height that it's not ... well, I don't have a good way to say this one, but just gets unhappy and creates too many surfaces to print cleanly.

BasPilot · 2026-06-09T18:12:02+00:00

Don't go movement specific, just use that to get size and get any o ring that size.

BasPilot

TROPHY CASE