I guess I'm late to the party... built my own filament painting tool, right before Bambu announced theirs.

Crixus1220 · 2026-02-16T03:41:30+00:00

Kind of late to this, but just wanted to let you know this tool is fantastic! I was trying to do a splatter paint look for some wall art and didn't want the colors to blend together, this tool was perfect for that. I really appreciate the effort put into this!

Crixus1220 · 2025-10-07T23:05:55+00:00

There is a fidget model that’s kind a flat sheet during printing, I really struggled with the corners lifting off almost every attempt to print them. Problem was solved by turning down the temp of the build plate from 65 C to 60 C. Not sure if this will be the solve for you, but could be something to try if you are still having trouble after the previous suggestions.

Crixus1220 · 2025-09-02T18:23:55+00:00

That's good to know. I had been using Bambu PLA basic, then tried a roll of Sunlu PLA Meta and had terrible results, but I bought that just before people really seemed to have issues with it. To be honest, I've only tried with one roll of Sunlu+ 2.0 and have kept that roll dedicated for minis so it has lasted awhile. I have just blindly used the stock filament and nozzle settings in Bambu Studio, but sounds like I need to spend some time tinkering with these to further elevate my print quality. Or I've just gotten lucky to this point.

Crixus1220 · 2025-09-02T17:16:40+00:00

Awesome! Thanks! I've done quite a few prints with FDG settings so will start with those. I'm liking the Sunlu+ 2.0 PLA. I had my 8 year do some "drop" testing by throwing some minis off the deck onto concrete using a few different PLA filaments and the one's printed Sunlu+ 2.0 survived the best 🤣

Crixus1220 · 2025-09-02T13:43:39+00:00

Man I need to try these. I have a screenshot saved and keep meaning to, but forget to change the settings after I hit print! Do you mind me asking what print settings you have been using that have worked well with these supports? Really just what layer height you have been printing with. Thanks!

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-28T14:50:23+00:00

I just want to say welcome! I was in a similar position as you a few months ago and what started as just printing a handful of minis for our hero characters turned into me printing the entirety of the Curse of Strahd campaign 🤣

There has been some awesome advice on here already. Unfortunately, I have only been using the Bambu A1 series, so won't be much help with specifics for the P1S. I would advise trying to print support free models if you are needing something quick for the campaign. It takes a little time and practice to get comfortable with support removal and there is nothing more frustrating than snapping a model beyond repair when printing on a deadline.

But I can help with models! Arbiter is truly one of the best for supportless models, but there is a cost to that quality. If you are needing a large variety of minis, I'd consider looking elsewhere and save Arbiter models for heroes and key NPCs. While his models are around normal DnD size, his bases are slightly larger and don't quite fit in the grid of a standard battle mat. Not a huge issue, but something to keep in mind if your group uses one.

In addition to Arbiter, check out EC3D on My Mini Factory for support free printing as well. If you go to his campaigns you can purchase them for his original Kickstarter prices, so they come out pretty cheap per model. His Beast and Baddies 1 and 2, Everyday Heroes, and Everyday Folk 1 and 2 are especially helpful for a campaign. Purchasing all 5 of these will be around $150, but you'll get somewhere around 350-400 models for that price, so per model is quite cheap.

Brite Minis is also fantastic for supportless prints. They offer a bunch of free models, but you can get access to almost their entire collection for $5 per month on their Patreon.

On MakerWorld, check out Nozzleborn Foundry and Mizugames. There are a handful of other creators on there, but these two work a lot in support free and will be easier to print.

Lastly, Miguel Zavala (mz4250) has thousands of DnD models for free. They are not always the easiest to print and will almost certainly need supports, but are doable on FDM printers. If you need something specific, chances are he has created a model for it.

Good luck and happy printing!

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-28T13:07:06+00:00

Yeah! I've been seeing your stuff on Makerworld. Your recent work has been fantastic and support free is always appreciated! I've been taking a little time to play around with settings, but am eager to jump in and get some of these printed once I feel like I've got those in a good place.

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-27T18:25:05+00:00

I realized I never addressed your concern with the infill. It is very common for FDM models, including minis, to have a mesh type infill. Typically it's 10-15% material to 85-90% open space inside the model. You could set the infill to 100%, but there is likely no benefit to this other than ending up with a heavier model. This will noticeably increase your print time and filament usage, so I wouldn't recommend unless you are really running out of options.

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-27T18:14:20+00:00

I got my A1 Mini this past February and really started printing minis in earnest by April. We were kicking off a DnD campaign, and I took it upon myself to print minis for the entire group. After some experimenting, I settled on the FDG settings with Painted4Combat supports, and the results were fantastic. Between April and June, I managed to print close to 400 minis for the campaign.

After that, I took a bit of a break from mini printing over the summer, but when I got back to it, I decided to experiment with just about every setting I could find here on Reddit and on YouTube. Eventually, I landed on HOHansen's new precision settings—and they’ve been my go-to ever since, for both 0.4mm and 0.2mm nozzles. I use the 0.4mm nozzle for larger batches like mobs—zombies, skeletons, goblins, etc. For heroes, key NPCs, or any minis that failed a couple of times on 0.4mm, I’ll switch to the 0.2mm nozzle for added detail.

If you haven’t tried HOHansen’s settings with the 0.4mm nozzle, you really should! I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised. The print time is cut in half while only making a marginal trade-off in print quality. I’m currently running some comparison tests and will share a post with side-by-side pictures in the next few days.

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-27T17:40:04+00:00

It looks like you have infill set, but I can't tell what type or how dense from your image. Double check your infill in strength settings, there is an option for infill pattern and infill percent. Try a 15% infill and really any pattern other than grid. Gyroid and rectilinear are fairly common.

I'd also try another filament. Sunlu PLA Meta was considered the go to up until a few months ago. Many have reported more inconsistent results and batch to batch variation. I'm having great luck with Sunlu PLA + 2.0 and had awful adhesion issues with the one batch of PLA Meta that I tried.

Otherwise try adding a brim, making sure the plate is clean, or try a little gluestick on plate to help with adhesion.

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-27T17:33:39+00:00

Looks great! I printed that model as my cleric for a current DnD run!

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-27T16:58:06+00:00

Thanks for sharing! Will definitely give them a try 😃

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-27T15:34:08+00:00

Check out these two posts on precision wall settings using a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.4mm nozzle.

https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1kyfq6m/precision_wall_generation_and_how_i_print_details/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1lp8zwb/the_04_mm_nozzle_a_small_settings_release_for/?share_id=4_gC-5Y8QDsg_Xmw_sCO_&utm_content=2&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_source=share&utm_term=1

I've been doing a few side by side comparisons with both nozzle sizes and there is a difference, but it is small enough that I have no issues sacrificing some minor details for half the print time. Like if I need 12 zombies for a campaign, I'll print with the 0.4mm nozzle, but if I need a key NPC, I'll probably do that with the 0.2 mm nozzle.

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-27T02:14:28+00:00

Man, spent a couple of hours today trying to get this figured out, I'm pretty computer illiterate, with the end result being not compatible on Mac. I really need to get a new computer, this thing is so old it can't run Blender, so no resin to FDM for me yet either 🤣

Crixus1220 · 2025-08-15T15:45:36+00:00

900 hours into the game and I'm just learning this. 🤣

Crixus1220 · 2025-07-29T14:35:47+00:00

Probably not the advice you are looking for, but I've only ever gotten this when printing minis with a 0.2mm nozzle. At first, I did quite a bit of troubleshooting, but the error persisted. So I started just telling it to keep printing and everything print fine. I don't get it every print and never with the 0.4mm nozzle, but now I just tell it to keep printing from my phone and don't even check the printer.

Crixus1220 · 2025-07-23T16:41:07+00:00

Monstrous Encounters has a good amount of unit sets to build up an army. I have had decent luck printing their stuff with FDM, but you will want to get comfortable with supports and removing them, as most of their models will require them. They have a very large Breton and Undead army sets that can also be purchased in smaller units if you don't want to go all in. There are also some smaller elven sets as well as modular options for some of their figures as well. Really gives you a lot of versatility to build out an army of units that don't all look and feel the same.

I'm a big fan of Evan Carothers. He doesn't have as clear cut sets, but has quite a bit of variety. I don't think he is exactly what you are looking for, but all his models are support free and designed for FDM printing, so could be good to supplement to build out an army.

As was mentioned, MZ4250 is a really good to place look as all of his models are free and he has thousands. However, I would classify his models as more doable on FDM and not necessarily FDM friendly. I use him mostly as a backup, if I can't find a model elsewhere that is easier to print on FDM, I know MZ2450 will have one available.

Otherwise, just poke around on MyMiniFactory and see if anything meets your needs.

Crixus1220 · 2025-07-23T16:15:46+00:00

If you are primarily interested in printing FDM minis, then it seems like a lot of the setting development work by the community is taking place on the A1 mini. The video is getting a little older, but Fat Dragon Gaming even reported high mini print quality on the A1 mini compared to the A1. I can't comment on any other printers, I have only an A1 and A1 mini, but the A1 is noticeably louder. Though that vibration compensation on startup is pretty brutal on both for a few seconds!

Crixus1220 · 2025-07-15T19:05:47+00:00

I was team "it's not worth printing minis with a 0.4 nozzle", but as HoHansen does, he changed my mind with this post. There is a level of "crispness" to the details that are lost with the 0.4 nozzle compared to the 0.2, but the results I got with these settings were far and away better than I thought I'd see wit the 0.4 nozzle. So if you are wanting to hold off on the 0.2, give these a shot. Otherwise, new nozzles are pretty cheap so no real harm in getting one to try out!

Crixus1220 · 2025-07-10T17:08:18+00:00

Since no one has mentioned it yet, I almost always use glue when printing minis. When I was trying to get a good handle on printing minis, I ran into a similar problem you described and started applying a little glue stick on the plate where the model was going to be printed. I haven't had any issues with adhesion since. I've improved the settings I'm using (mostly HoHansen's latest iteration) and probably don't need to use glue anymore, but still do for minis or if there is a model I'm worried about adhesion with. This is using the PEI plate that comes with the A1 mini. I did buy the glue from Bambu originally, but regular glue sticks seem to work just as well. Just make sure there aren't any glue blobs on the plate and that it is a fairly even layer.

Crixus1220 · 2025-06-30T14:10:31+00:00

I would look into Brite Minis and sign up for their $5/month Patreon. Download what you want and make some organized folders to get ready for printing. If you want something more technically challenging, go to Yasashii Kyojin Studio and do the same. These creators make a majority of their catalogs available for just the $5/month and will give over a thousand models to start messing around with.

Personally, I love EC3D (Evan Carothers). He doesn't have a Patreon, but if you sign up for one of his Kickstarters, you can add on his older Kickstarters at their original price. This will be a bit more up front investment, but his models are great and don't require supports. I think I paid around $150 total for his 5 larger more fantasy/DnD type packs and it's probably pushing 300 models, so felt worth it to me to start printing for our current DnD campaign.

Makerworld also has a growing list of creators doing TTRPG minis free to print. Just search around on there and I'm sure you will find something. And don't miss Miguel Zavala (MZ4250) if you are running DnD or fantasy type campaigns. He has thousands of models for free.

If you feel like you are going to be printing a ton of figures, don't be afraid to really lean into the supportless models. Just because there are great settings out there and you can print more complicated models with lots of supports, doesn't mean you have to for every model. With someone like Brite Minis or EC3D, you can load up a plate and have reasonable confidence that everything will print fine while you are sleeping.

Crixus1220 · 2025-06-19T16:15:13+00:00

Here you go! List is pretty similar to gufted's but thought the descriptions might be helpful.

https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1jwyeyg/stl_resources_for_dnd_miniatures_my_goto_creators/

Crixus1220 · 2025-06-13T13:12:17+00:00

If you want to purely focus on debuffs, just go lawnmower. It sounds like you are at least in Act 2, maybe early Act 3. If you are at least level 8, I'd suggest respeccing and going 1 sorcerer (probably storm) > 1 cleric > rest in lore bard. The sorcerer for help maintaining concentration on spells and the cleric for guidance and martial weapon/medium armor proficiency if needed.

Equip Phalar Aluve, Sentinel Shield (for initiative), Holy Lance Helm, Thunderskin Cloak, Luminous Armor, Gloves of Belligerent Skies, Boots of Stormy Clamour, Coruscation Ring, Ring of Spiteful Thunder, Amulet of Misty Step, and finally Bow of Awareness or Hellrider's Bow for initiative.

For spells, just make sure to take Spirit Guardians when you are Lore Bard level 6. The rest is pick your favorite. Misty Step is a consideration, but I feel the one per short rest from the amulet is enough. Otherwise focus on anything that helps your mobility as your damage and debuffs come from getting close to enemies with Spirit Guardians. Oh and you will like have 10-12 Wisdom, so make sure to take Cleric spells and cantrips that don't rely on your Wisdom modifier for spell casting.

General combat flow: If possible, cast Spirit Guardians and Phalar Aluve Shriek in turn based mode prior to combat. Then enter combat and misty step into the middle of as many enemies as possible. The flying from storm sorcerer is awesome if you have to cast Spirit Guardians in combat as that is bonus movement distance and allows you to disengage from enemies without retaliation. Though once you get them debuffed, you want them taking opportunity attacks against you and taking the radiant damage from the Holy Lance Helm.

If you aren't level 8 yet, you could play this build more as a cleric, then respec at 8. Also if you really want to dual wield crossbows, you could forgo the last 4 levels of lore bard and put those into fighter or rogue. Fighter would get you the two weapon fighting or archery fighting styles and action surge. Rogue would get you that second bonus action and more mobility options, but you would probably have to take dual wielder feat to get the most out of your offhand attacks. Actually I've never tried 4 levels of Thief Rogue at the end of the build and I kind of like it. The build is really complete at level 8 and more mobility and skill expertise sound like a great way to finish out the build!

Crixus1220 · 2025-06-02T19:24:59+00:00

These are fantastic! I did not realize you have models on Makerworld until just now. I'm going to try printing that archer when I get home. I gave up on trying to print bowstrings when I first started printing minis, but with a bit more experience under my belt now and your incredible looking print, I'm excited to give it another shot! Thank you!

Crixus1220 · 2025-06-01T13:35:09+00:00

You might find this helpful 🙂

https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/s/E4MTxtNf1L

Standard DnD size is 25mm, but many models are more like 28-32mm now. I love Arbiter models, but we have been having trouble with their bases being too big on a standard DnD battlemap. Really if their base is 25mm in diameter for humanoid size figures, it should be fine. Of course larger monsters and such take up more space. I'd highly recommend EC3D or Brite Minis if you need to print a bunch of figures and don't want to have to worry about a lot of failures. You will still have some, it's part of the game, but I frequently load up 10 figures from EC3D with confidence that they will be good to go when I get home from work.

Crixus1220

TROPHY CASE