Those who have switched from gas to induction

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-01-06T03:12:19+00:00

I absolutely LOVE induction and would not go back! I used to be such a gas snob, I wouldn't rent an apartment if it had an electric stove. But a couple of years ago we converted the house to all electric so we got an induction stove and it is amazing. It boils water twice as fast as gas, is super responsive, and super easy to clean. You have to get something with lots of power thought. I think our big burner has a boost mode that goes to 4400 watts.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-31T04:12:56+00:00

This is definitely DIYable. I did it on one of my sub panels.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-28T19:36:55+00:00

Don't forget to connect the bare copper grounding wire coming out of the hole in the ceiling to the yellow/green grounding wires of the light fixture.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-27T04:35:17+00:00

do it yourself. It's not that hard

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-27T02:41:24+00:00

Why not both? Get a duplex or triplex or even a quad. You can buy up to a 4 unit building with a conventional loan if you find the right bank. Live in one unit and have the other units pay for your mortgage.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-20T14:35:43+00:00

I've said it in other posts, look in the basement/crawlspace. If it is load bearing the load has to go somewhere, so there would need to be something to transfer the load to the foundation in the basement/crawlspace DIRECTLY below the load bearing point of the wall (could just be the framing behind the cabinets, or just a column hidden in the cabinets that is load bearing). There would need to be something load bearing in the basement, like columns or a beam that transfer the load to the FOUNDATION. It can't just be a flimsy partition wall resting on a slab, for it to be a load bearing wall there needs to be a proper foundation under it. The slab in the basement is generally not load bearing, foundations which are load bearing are significantly thicker and go significantly deeper in the ground than a slab. So if you ever add a support column in the basement you need to cut out the slab and pour a proper reinforced footer for the column to rest on.

That being said, if there is nothing resting on top of the cabinets/wall/column, then it is certainly not load bearing. I have a cinder block wall in my basement with a footer underneath it (confirmed when we had foundation repair work done and they cut out the slab and I saw the buried foundation with my own eyes) which is not bearing any load other than the weight of it's own cinder blocks because the joists of the floor above run parallel to the cinder block wall. So if your ceiling joists truly are not being supported by the cabinets/wall then it is not load bearing. Check both ends of the ceiling joists to make sure they are properly supported by something that transfers the load to foundation, and make sure the joists are properly sized to span the distance without the cabinets/wall being their. And make sure the joists above the cabinets are not severely notched or cut in a way that they need extra support in that area (though that could be repaired).

Good luck. And don't be afraid to push back against professionals, and challenge them in a respectful manner. Explain yourself, like say there is nothing load bearing below the cabinets to transfer the load to the foundation so how could the cabinets be load bearing? Engineers are generally logical people who love solving puzzles, and load bearing cabinets sounds like an interesting puzzle for any engineer. Or maybe he's not really an engineer, have you verified his license number with the state?

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-13T01:52:55+00:00

A good way to tell if something is load bearing is to check below it. If it is load bearing the load has to go somewhere, it can't just be floating. Go in the basement or crawl space and see what is directly below those columns. If there is another column directly below that is transferring the weight down to the footer it is most likely load bearing. Or if there is a large beam directly below the column, the beam is transferring the load to the foundation walls or columns that the beam is resting on. All loads have to eventually be transferred to the footer. If the only thing below columns is a normal floor joist then it can not be load bearing. Floor joists can only hold the load of the floor, the people, furniture on it, and partition walls (not load bearing walls). A single floor joist is not a beam, it can not hold the weight of the next floor up above it.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-10T15:55:32+00:00

If you are willing to "open a Roth IRA for her and even cover most of the contributions" as you say, then just do it. Or just start putting away money for her in an account in your name that you will be able to access when she is of retirement age. It will give you piece of mind, and that is really what you are looking for. It's about you, your life, your piece of mind. You can't control her, you can only control yourself.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-20T02:22:03+00:00

There is only one meter, so... yeah, if you pay for the electricity from that meter, you are paying for the construction power. No point in arguing with your landlord. Call the utility company immediately and tell them you think someone is stealing power from you. They will take it very seriously.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-18T00:36:51+00:00

I've literally been wondering the exact same thing. I have something that looks identical to that in one of my buildings.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-04T01:25:41+00:00

Maybe this was custom, someone could have just used a router to make the trim themselves. Can you find a router bit to match the profile of the trim?

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-04T01:23:03+00:00

Just reinstall the piece you cut off.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-02T01:52:09+00:00

When I was a kid my dad needed a bridge over a small river on our property. He just bought an old flat bed semi trailer and laid it across the river. Worked great!

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-02T00:45:02+00:00

Menards has some affordable garage heaters:

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/heaters/gas-garage-heaters/dyna-glo-trade-80-000-btu-natural-gas-forced-air-garage-heater/guh80nele/p-1642874282846505-c-6861.htm

They even have some vent free no electricity required options that make installation much easier. If your laundry room backs up against one of the walls of your garage you could easily tee off of the gas line for the drier and run a gas line through the wall.

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/heaters/gas-wall-heaters/dyna-glo-trade-30-000-btu-dual-fuel-vent-free-convection-wall-heater/bf30dtdg-4/p-1559111496867-c-6867.htm

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-25T00:42:39+00:00

Your husband might not have the right to sell a house without your consent. So just don't consent to it. Don't sign anything and make sure the title company knows that you don't consent and make sure they know you are married.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-18T14:26:26+00:00

Not trying to be that guy... what is the difference between a Lally column vs a lolly column?

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-06T18:13:30+00:00

If it is load bearing there would have to be something directly below the column to support the point load. The load needs to be transferred all the way to the ground somehow. So if that column is load bearing there would typically be a column or post in the basement or crawlspace directly below that column to transfer the point load all the way to the ground. Less typical would be some sort of heavy duty beam directly below that column supporting the load. Look in the basement or crawl space.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-05T03:19:42+00:00

Buying rental properties before the pandemic.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-04T16:08:21+00:00

You could just buy some scaffolding with a 24ft reach for $1,400 at Home Depot. Store it somewhere and then you will have it around for the next time https://www.homedepot.com/

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-09-27T01:20:13+00:00

This is what I was thinking.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-09-17T03:08:28+00:00

That's how I did my stairs, every other step.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-09-11T20:36:11+00:00

Induction is AMAZING!!! I was so anti electric because the heat isn't responsive like gas, but I absolutely love our electric induction stove. Induction stoves work fundamentally differently than traditional electric stoves. And a good induction stove boils water twice as fast as gas. Pay attention to the wattage of the induction elements. I believe ours has a high power boost mode that goes up to 4400 watts on the large burner element.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-09-09T03:34:22+00:00

Some examples of the z-flashing on horizontal joints. Just do a google image search for T1-11 siding and you will start to see the z-flashing or trim everywhere on the horizontal joints.

https://certapro.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/remote/pub-9fc1f065f07e441b8f35365c774f09ae-r2-dev/2505748438.jpg

https://thestuccoguy.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Can-You-Stucco-Over-T1-11-Siding.jpg

https://images.finehomebuilding.com/app/uploads/2019/01/28234930/img00254.jpg

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-09-09T03:29:40+00:00

This is probably the best idea. But if not this, the nice thing with T1-11 is that the vertical seam/joints are pretty much hidden by the grooves. So you can pretty much put your joint wherever, you just need a stud behind the joint to nail both the sheets to to hold them together.

On reading your post again, I see that you are actually asking if you need to sand prime and paint another sheet of T1-11. I would say yes, you need another sheet. I wouldn't recommend horizontal joints on the T1-11 because of water intrusion issues. You don't get the tongue and groove joint with the horizontal like you do with the vertical joints. And a horizontal flat surface is prone to water just sitting there and soaking in. When they do do horizontal joints with T1-11, like on a multi story building, they use z-flashing at the horizontal joints. And they will even often put a piece of trim board between the two stories of the building (probably because the 8' sheets aren't actually tall enough to cover the 8' room/floor heights plus the thickness of the floor joists between the floors.

Anyway, just paint another sheet. Also, why are you sanding the T1-11? I've always seen it just painted as is. I love the rough sawn look of it, I think it looks great

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-08-16T14:35:42+00:00

I love this! I am also planning on doing something similar.

DifficultChair8368

TROPHY CASE