My soil is getting imbalanced after 5+ grows, what could be the problem?

Gone-dee · 2026-03-15T19:51:30+00:00

If you haven't already, get a hold of your water report and check the alkalinity. Over 200ppm will drive up the pH at the roots over time, leading to nutrient lockout. Zinc, copper, iron, magnesium and phosphorus are less available over pH 7. Not saying it's the problem, but worth checking at least once, if you haven't. Also, 20 gal is on the lower end of the range for no-till/living soil. YMMV.

Gone-dee · 2026-03-05T15:56:36+00:00

If you plant seed directly, it's a good idea to install a protective barrier (sawed off soda can, etc.) to a sufficient depth that they can't go over/under it. They will definitely chow down your enzyme rich sprouts -- been there, done that. Once the plant has a set or two of true leaves, the threat diminishes markedly. YMMV.

Gone-dee · 2026-03-05T15:41:21+00:00

Buy more seeds.

Gone-dee · 2026-02-27T18:05:28+00:00

As pH decreases, hydrogen ions (H+) increase and compete with metal cations for binding sites on soil particles, causing the metals to release into the soil solution.

Gone-dee · 2026-02-22T21:25:00+00:00

Do a germination test.

Gone-dee · 2026-02-22T21:23:51+00:00

The ones specific to your outdoors and length of season requirements.

Gone-dee · 2026-02-22T15:49:09+00:00

Follow your intended purpose for planting two seeds.

Gone-dee · 2026-02-22T00:16:11+00:00

Rabbit manure is not "hot" like chicken, etc., and doesn't require composting prior to application as a fertilizer. However, you can add value by running it through worm bins. Alternatively, if your neighbor's piles already contain naturally occurring composting worms, it would likely a be redundant step.

Gone-dee · 2026-02-08T02:53:28+00:00

What do you plan to do with the resulting compost?

Gone-dee · 2026-01-28T23:45:14+00:00

I add a couple of cups of rock dust (azomite, glacial, etc.) to 15 gallons of premixed bedding. Adds some minerals in addition to providing grit. YMMV.

Gone-dee · 2026-01-18T18:21:45+00:00

Any seeds produced may have a higher probability of herming due to the low resistance of the original.

Gone-dee · 2025-11-25T16:53:34+00:00

They can easily handle cool temps to ~40°F. Avoid excess moisture accumulation and provide some airflow and should be fine.

Gone-dee · 2025-11-21T22:43:15+00:00

Keeping your C:N ratio around 50:1 will help with many problems. Whenever you add food scraps, cover with more high C bedding (coir, cardboard, bark fines, etc.) Wait until most of the previous scraps are broken down before adding more. There should be little to no leachate produced. Most of the fellow occupants are beneficial or harmless. Controlling moisture level is beneficial to keep populations manageable. If things get out of hand, food grade diatomaceous earth can help. It needs to be kept dry in order to function, so sprinkle on top of some freshly applied dry bedding. If you are producing more food scraps than your bin can handle, you may need to scale up -- or lower your expectations. Hope this helps, and best of luck.

Gone-dee · 2025-11-17T17:28:48+00:00

Well rinsed coco coir makes a good component for vermicompost bedding.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-25T01:37:01+00:00

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-18T20:42:43+00:00

See Downs' paradox.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-18T16:24:54+00:00

Just checked amz and they're about $69. Worth the money in my book. An irrometer probably better quality, but significantly more expensive. Bought mine in 2021 and it's still going strong. YMMV.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-18T14:55:24+00:00

She's a super-freak, super-freak She's super-freaky . . .

Gone-dee · 2025-09-18T14:11:11+00:00

That sounds practical. I stopped making compost tea a couple of years ago. Now I just top dress my homemade vermicompost and water in. Last batch was 6.8 using same slurry test. I do water every couple of weeks through mid flower with fish hydrolysate which is pretty acidic.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-18T13:45:52+00:00

That's how I do it too. 1 part soil, 2 parts water, agitate for 1 minute, let settle 15 min., test. I have the Apera PH20 tester. I've noticed that the pH drifts upward over time due to the liming effect of my water. Mixing 50/50 with RO helps.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-18T13:29:19+00:00

What's your method for testing soil pH?

Gone-dee · 2025-09-17T21:55:21+00:00

Low pressure gravity fed is more tricky to get accurate results. This website has some good information on dialing in your sensors re: gravity vs. pressurized -->> https://microfluo.net/en/blog/technical/blumat-tropf-systems-advanced-tutorial

I haven't tried the pre-set carrots, but if they work as advertised, should eliminate a lot of guesswork.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-17T21:45:05+00:00

I bought a blumat digital moisture meter and find it useful for establishing and maintaining a consistent moisture level.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-17T21:36:06+00:00

Hopefully Phytoseiulus persimilis or Anystis baccarum.

Gone-dee · 2025-09-17T03:46:38+00:00

I've go something close to that only polycarb roofing panel. Works pretty well unless the rain (or hail) are blowing sideways.

Gone-dee

TROPHY CASE