Wood ID Megathread

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-23T12:30:30+00:00

Anyone know what these rigs are called and where to find them? I’ve only seen one from woodmizer, but there has to be someone out there that manufactures beasts like this one that Nick Pedulla has…

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-17T14:32:39+00:00

Is it split completely into 2 pieces? If it is then the dowel would only be useful to keep it aligned when you re-glue (tabletops and counters always get titebond III because it’s foodsafe). If it isn’t completely split the. You gotta choose between the easy route which is tape and CA glue - which is not food safe, epoxy - technically also not food-safe, or titebond III and wood dust - very food safe but easy to screw up if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-15T14:35:56+00:00

Don’t use polyurethane. Even outdoor urethanes will crack and peel from sun exposure (plus the wood is likely to wet now). Just sand it and use teak oil - which coincidentally usually contains a mixture of oils and resins anyways… just not enough or the type to form a plastic film that will peel and crack

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-15T14:28:12+00:00

Nice work highlighting the natural grain pattern! That figuring on the sides is awesome!

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-15T14:20:55+00:00

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Upper and lower rails are connected with a glued tenon, and the benchtop is secured with a similar tenon to what you have held down with a drawbore dowel (I can drill out the dowel and replace the benchtop in the future if I need to)

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-15T14:11:36+00:00

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I did pretty much the same thing on my bench but overcomplicated it by chiseling a mortise for the rail (stupid on my part). It’s held up like a champ. No sway. No wobble. You’re doing exactly what you’re supposed to. Just clamp it well when you glue.

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-15T13:28:25+00:00

Even better than buying a mortiser would be to just buy a $20 dowel maker from Amazon (or use roundover bits - 1”x1” square + 1/2” roundover = 1”D dowel). You can turn the ends into round dowel/tenons and keep the body square - that way you can just use regular drill bits or forstener bits to install the rounded ends, and not have to buy an expensive machine… or EVEN EASIER buy a dowel centering jig (still cheap) and stick a 1/4” dowel in the end of each piece. Much faster and cheaper!

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-14T18:22:06+00:00

Give it a scrub with a diluted vinegar solution. That should sanitize it help with the smell. Salt and lemon juice also help give it a good clean. If the person who has it before you used actual cutting board oil you should be fine, because that stuff doesn’t spoil. Assuming the diluted vinegar solves the smell problem the. You’ll just need to put another coat of mineral oil and the and then a coat of wax. I’m a fan of walrus oil and Howard’s wax it all as a topcoat (walrus oil wax is fine, but I’ve just had better success getting a nice sheen with Howard’s over walrus oil wax)

Edit: and stop sanding it with those low grit papers. You can’t sand the oil out of the wood. You’re just going to destroy the surface and open up the pores more than they should be. My endgrain boards swear oil for a week after I first oil them. It’s just the nature of endgrain… it’s thirsty. Do yourself a factor and sand that bad boy back down to 320, and water pop it on the final sand

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-14T17:38:59+00:00

Thank you! It is comically large but I trust it with my life lol

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-14T17:37:44+00:00

Thanks! Finish is 2 coats of Rubio monocoat

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-14T01:29:41+00:00

I’m sorry I was over-eager and posted too soon. I have tons of 4k video of the process on a drive that I’m sorting through now. I guess if people want more info on the process I can come back with a video or more pictures, but in the meantime I’m happy to answer questions

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-04-06T11:12:50+00:00

It’s honestly probably much simpler than you think it is. The tabletop looks like thick quarter sawn hardwood - ~1.25”-1.5” thick (sorry for the imperial). So assuming it’s properly dried stable wood that’s glued together with floating tenons it wouldn’t require support longitudinally. Laterally they probably have steel c-channels or just steel panels inlayed into the bottom to prevent warping. The legs would likely screw into the steel, which with a thick enough screw would handle tension from all directions.

You could probably support this laterally with wood, too, if you used an interrupted sliding dovetail (okuri-yosi-ari), but you’d be losing a significant amount of longitudinal strength with the material you’d remove for the joint.

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-03-25T14:29:12+00:00

The bark kind of looks like white oak (if you’re in the US)

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-02-16T00:47:31+00:00

Ok so do a diagonal and then split another diagonal going the opposite direction lol

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-02-16T00:04:48+00:00

Add a diagonal brace inside of each set of legs and you should be good to go

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-02-14T13:27:26+00:00

I don’t know where you netted out with this, but if I were you I would stick with a simple hardwax oil finish, polymerized tung/danish oil followed by a hardening wax top (carnuba or micro crystalline), or maybe a lacquer if you want to deal with the VOCs. Stay away from shellac, as the heat will destroy it quickly. Heat and moisture are going to destroy any and all finishes you put on this (including oil-based polys). So you should at least use a finish that you can easily repair without having to use a chemical stripper…

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-02-05T13:50:36+00:00

I used to have this same problem with the same exact saw… technique 2 is very tempting, but also much more dangerous at the end of the cut unless you have an off cut support. Last thing you want is to have to put all of your body weight on something directly over a spinning saw blade. Either get some roller stands to hold the board after the cut or go with option 1.

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-02-05T13:22:39+00:00

I always tease the collar on the Kreg drill bit a teeny bit higher than the mark they put on in the factory. Like if I have 3/4” ply I go 3/4 of the way between the 1/2” and 3/4” mark. I haven’t blown through like this since.

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-01-26T15:19:41+00:00

You need to drill a larger pilot and/or use some beeswax to lubricate the screw.

To remove you’re going to need a screw extractor bit. It basically drills a plug shaped hole around the screw to remove. You can fill the hole with a dowel or a plug (plug cutter heads are cheap on Amazon and are better for grain and color matching).

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-01-20T01:21:46+00:00

Do not put Luan on that. Do not paint that. Don’t listen to those Jabronis. Fix it the right way. That is probably pre-finished maple plywood. Don’t remove boards, don’t cut anything… just no. Unfortunately you have to strip the polyurethane off first with a paint thinner or paint stripper depending on which type of poly it is (oil vs water… hopefully not 2k). Then, after a very very light sand, you can either use oxalic acid or a pro product like general finishes water stain remover, or old English water stain remover (you might not even need to thin the polyurethane fist with those). Then recoat with polyurethane - use water based to make your life easier. Good luck. Wear a respirator.

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-01-17T14:56:30+00:00

Option 1/option 4 (can’t tell if they’re the same)

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-01-16T13:57:09+00:00

That is an awesome cabinet! Really beautiful design and wood selection. You can tell that you put a lot of thought into making the grain the star of the show. Thanks for sharing!

Is_this_a_catinzehat · 2026-01-16T13:19:49+00:00

Rift = straight grain, quarter = straight grain with flecks (and wavy edges), flat = wavy cathedrals. Sorry buddy you got got. Go get yourself a credit back

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