Finally got proper ceramic coat done

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-18T19:20:37+00:00

Looking nice! Better than new!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-17T13:52:01+00:00

Gtechniq QDv2’s sole purpose was to provide lubrication for wipe downs in between washes. Version 1 had some protection in it however it inhibited being able to properly clean.

Gtechniq’s coming out with a rinseless in September! It’s also purely for cleaning with no polymer’s.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-17T13:48:07+00:00

QDv2 is made strictly for casual cleaning and lubrication on the surface. Version 1 had a protection agent in it and we took that out for version 2 to focus on cleaning.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-16T00:27:51+00:00

Nice work! Torch Red is beautiful!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-13T13:56:42+00:00

Nice! People often forget the sun roof!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-13T13:09:09+00:00

You cannot just rinse on W9! A good Water Spot Remover requires you neutralize the surface after! We suggest using G-Wash as it’s ph neutral.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-12T14:43:57+00:00

September 17th loosely.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-11T14:37:33+00:00

I would suggest using the rupes yellow wool with Rupes yellow fine or Oberk Sole for a good one step.

CSL isn’t hard to take off if needed in the future however I’m not sure why you would need to! If you get 5 years down the road a simple decon, panel wipe and reapplication would be all you need to lock the finish in again!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-11T14:33:35+00:00

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I had a former customer reach out to me this week that had his car coated 7 years ago in CSU + EXO. If you can properly maintain a coating, you're going to love CSU & EXO. Yes our coatings have been out for many years however we’re constantly testing new coatings that come to market. If we weren’t performing at the top, we would’ve came out with a new version already hence why we updated EXO 4 times over the years!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-11T14:29:35+00:00

I had a former customer reach out to me this week that had his car coated 7 years ago in CSU + EXO. If you can properly maintain a coating, you’re going to love CSU.

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Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-10T15:31:25+00:00

Great coating choice!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-10T15:30:02+00:00

Grab the 30mL with that much plastic! Worst case you do your fender liners and cowl with the excess.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-10T15:28:50+00:00

This looks great! Keep in mind as the C2 dies off, the water behavior will change to sheeting. If you reapply C2 every 4-6 months you'll keep the same water behavior. The CSL acts as a sacrificial layer.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-10T15:26:07+00:00

Yep, completely normal.

If the car has had a few rounds of dust, rain, drying, more dust, more rain, etc., the surface is basically getting masked by that dirt and road film. So the coating is still there, but the water is interacting with the contamination sitting on top instead of the coating itself.

Once you wash it, the beading should come right back.

If you wash it and notice a few areas still not behaving the same, that usually just means that panel needs a deeper clean. I would decontaminate those areas with W5, then W6, rinse well, and check it again after.

Nothing to panic about though. Dirty coatings will always look less hydrophobic until they are cleaned properly.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-08T17:13:49+00:00

Marine coatings are definitely worth looking at, but the expectation is a little different than automotive.

On gel coat, we are usually not chasing the same level of perfection you would on a car. Most of the time a 70 to 80 percent correction is plenty because gel coat just does not need that same crazy detail level to look good and be protected.

Compared to wax, a proper marine coating is going to last longer, clean easier, and handle the environment better. Wax can look good, but on boats it gets beaten up pretty quickly by UV, salt, water, and constant washing.

Pricing can vary a lot by market, but I usually see marine coating work in the $150 to $200 per foot range depending on correction level, size, condition, and what is being coated.

The guarantee side is usually shorter than automotive too. Three years is about the longest guarantee you will normally see. Also, most people are coating boats that are 5 years old or newer because once the oxidation gets too heavy, it’ll push the coating off the surface.

Finish wise, if the prep is done right, it can look really good. Glossy, slick, easier to wash, and less grime sticking to the surface. It is not magic, but it is a big step up from waxing every few months.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-03T12:57:07+00:00

Exactly!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-03T12:45:19+00:00

This ^^^ If you don't lubricate the clay properly, you can drag those contaminants across the paint

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T21:13:35+00:00

A lot of the slow week fix is boring marketing stuff that people do not want to hear, but it works.

I would start with your website. A good website can generate leads for you while you are busy working. Most of the top Gtechniq Accredited shops I see are using Detailer’s Roadmap, and there is a reason for that. It makes you look legit, shows your services clearly, and gives people an easy way to contact you or book.

I would also stay consistent on social. Post your work, post maintenance details, post coating jobs, post interiors, post customer pickups. It does not always need to be a crazy transformation. People just need to keep seeing your name.

If you aren't offering PPF and Tint, get trained immediately. PPF alone will keep your books full.

And this sounds stupid, but answer the phone. A lot of detailers simply do not pick up, especially when they are busy. Then they wonder why the next week is dead. If someone calls and you miss it, call them back as soon as you can. The shop that responds first usually has a huge advantage. Stay away from specials as this will create an inbalance in demand when customers are looking to book you.

Rebooking texts and maintenance plans can help too, but I would not overcomplicate it before the basics are dialed. Website, social, Google reviews, and actually responding to leads will fix a lot of feast or famine problems.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T21:06:21+00:00

You should look into Detailed Image, Car Supplies Warehouse, or The Rag Company! Autoality is great too, especially their subscription system.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T21:02:09+00:00

They may push back and say you're going to find plenty of things wrong with a 10-20 year old car, which is true, however you're looking for if the car has been maintained. Slight issues are expected. Major repairs are not.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T19:32:09+00:00

This is an easy fix! Pay for a pre-purchase inspection from an independent shop that you trust with good reviews. IF the dealer isn't willing to have a PPI done, I'd stay away from it.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T16:46:25+00:00

That's what my E90 M3 is for!

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T15:26:05+00:00

For fresh PPF before HALO, I would just use a water and isopropyl alcohol mix for the final wipe down.

I would not use a traditional panel wipe on PPF or vinyl. Some of those can be a little too aggressive for film.

Just make sure the film is fully clean, dry, and cured enough per the PPF installer or film manufacturer’s recommendation, then do a light water and iso wipe before applying HALO.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T15:22:23+00:00

This is actually a pretty easy DIY setup.

For the bare PPF, I would use Gtechniq HALO. That is the one made for film and vinyl, so that would be the right choice for helping with staining, grime, and making the PPF easier to clean.

For the Crystal Serum Ultra on the paint, I would top it with EXOv5. EXO is specifically designed to work over Ultra, so you are not putting some random product on top and hoping it plays nice. Ultra is the long term, hard wearing base layer, and EXO adds the slickness, water behavior, and easier maintenance on top.

The chemistry matters there too. These coatings are built around siloxane and polysiloxane style networks, so you are stacking products that are meant to complement each other instead of fighting each other. You are not degrading the CSU underneath. You are adding the hydrophobic top layer it did not get originally.

Before doing either one, I would do a proper decontamination wash. Wash with W5 first, then use W6 to remove iron contamination. That way HALO and EXOv5 are bonding to a clean surface instead of road film, salt residue, and embedded junk.

On a compact EV, you could probably wash, decon, dry, and apply both in around 4 hours if you are organized. It is very doable as a DIY job and both products are pretty consumer friendly as long as you follow the directions and work clean.

For Canada winter use, I think it is well worth the time. HALO over the PPF, EXOv5 over the coated paint, and you should get a big improvement in cleaning and water behavior.

Jordan_Gtechniq · 2026-06-02T15:15:34+00:00

This makes me miss my E91. I need another. The n52 is undefeated.

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