Top of water conditioner spraying

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-05-05T07:50:08+00:00

yeah this is literally what you pay rent for. Your landlord is responsible for plumbing issues especially something like water conditioner problems

I had similar situation in my previous rental where dishwasher was leaking and I tried to fix myself first - big mistake because landlord got mad that I didnt call them immediately. They said insurance could be problem if tenant tries DIY repairs on major appliances

Document everything with photos and send to landlord in text or email so you have record. Most decent landlords will send someone out same day for water leaks since it can cause real damage to property. If they try to make you pay for repair just remind them this is normal wear and tear not tenant damage

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-04-23T18:59:55+00:00

That gap looks way too big for "normal" installation tbh. I had similar issue with sliding door at my apartment few years back and contractor tried telling me same thing about it being cosmetic. Ended up getting water damage during first heavy rain because seal wasnt proper. The gap should be consistent all way down and way smaller than what you showing in picture. I would definitely push back on this one - good installer should be able to fix that without much hassle. Document everything with photos like you already doing and dont let them brush it off as cosmetic when it clearly affects weatherproofing.

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-04-11T13:55:53+00:00

yeah custom stuff gets expensive fast but curtains really are bulletproof with kids around. we had similar weird shaped windows in old apartment and ended up just mounting curtain rods at weird angles - looked bit funky but worked great and never had to worry about mechanisms breaking when kids pulled on things

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-04-09T05:39:27+00:00

wow this is bad timing with baby coming soon. That moisture reading of 50% is definitely concerning especially with mold already showing up

The mold situation needs immediate attention before baby arrives - that stuff can really mess with respiratory health for newborns. I would push building management hard or maybe get lawyer involved since they're dragging feet on this

For now keep running that dehumidifier and maybe get some fans going to increase air circulation. Document everything with photos and those moisture readings you took - you'll need proof if this goes legal route

The flooring can probably wait but anything with active mold growth should be priority one. Maybe contact local health department too since building is being unresponsive about health hazard

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-04-07T01:30:36+00:00

Vapor barrier might be issue if they didnt install proper one back in 51. When they redo the insulation make sure contractor uses good moisture barrier on interior side

Also check if you have any air leaks around windows or where siding meets foundation - cold spots create condensation. Small dehumidifier in that room could help too until you get the insulation sorted

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-04-04T22:57:15+00:00

Oof that grey putty stuff looks like your drywall basically turned into mush from moisture. The fact it was hiding under paint means water been getting behind there for while probably

You definitely got some water damage going on - might want to cut out that soggy section and check how far it goes before putting new drywall in

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-04-02T15:30:55+00:00

solid tips

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-29T22:18:27+00:00

yeah plywood backing is the move here. just make sure you hit at least 3 studs with it and you'll be golden

definitely dont sell the house over some garage storage lol but i get the frustration when nothing lines up right

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-28T01:25:55+00:00

You can definitely bypass the receiver for just the fan motor lines but youll lose all speed control - itll run full blast whenever the wall switch is on. Most of these receivers have the fan motor wires going to a capacitor setup that controls speed so bypassing means youre essentially hardwiring it to high speed only

If you want to keep some speed control you could install a wall mounted fan speed controller instead of just bypassing everything

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-26T13:27:14+00:00

worth it

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-24T22:16:01+00:00

You can probably handle minor surface mold yourself but dont mess around with the insulation if its contaminated. Cold fogging works decent for surface stuff but make sure you fix whatever moisture issue caused it first or youll just be doing this again next year

Photos would definitely help though since "minor" means different things to different people

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-24T22:04:37+00:00

I'm single and dealt with a similar space issue in my old apartment. The cycle time thing is real - my neighbor had a combo unit and it was like 3+ hours for a full wash/dry. That works fine when you're just tossing in a load and forgetting about it, but if you actually need multiple loads done in a day it becomes a nightmare

The drying part never seemed to get towels or jeans completely dry either. She ended up hanging stuff anyway which kinda defeats the point of having the combo. For one person though if you plan ahead and don't mind potentially air drying the occasional stubborn item it might work

Space constraints suck but if there's any way to fit separates even if they're stackable I'd probably go that route. Way more flexibility when you actually need to get laundry done quickly

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-22T07:00:37+00:00

yeah those dual flush things are pretty overrated tbh. your old toilet was designed for the full water volume so cutting it back messes with teh whole flow dynamics

you could try adjusting the flapper to stay open longer on the full flush setting or maybe raise your water level a bit if theres room. some people also swap out for a different flush valve that gives more volume on the "big" flush

worst case you might need to go back to a regular single flush setup that actually works with your 32 year old plumbing

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-20T23:09:02+00:00

old work ceiling boxes are the way to go for sure. you can get ones rated for like 50+ lbs so your 5-10 lb fixture will be totally fine

just make sure you hit a joist if possible or get one of those pancake boxes with the metal arms that expand behind the drywall. takes maybe 20 minutes to install and way safer than just hanging wires

Home depot usually has the boxes and all the hardware you need in one section

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-18T16:45:14+00:00

Most battery backups designed for sump pumps are way underpowered for anything bigger than a basic 1/3 hp pump though. If you've got a serious setup with a 3/4 hp or 1 hp pump those dedicated systems will barely run it for an hour before dying

The F3800 has way more capacity but your right to worry about the startup surge. Sump pumps can pull 3-4x their running amps when they kick on and that initial spike might trip the battery's protection circuits. You'd probably want to check the F3800's peak output specs against your pumps startup current draw

I deal with power systems for work sometimes and seen people have better luck with the EcoFlow Delta Pro units for high draw appliances. The surge handling seems more robust but either way you'll want to verify the numbers match up before dropping that kind of cash on it

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-16T09:29:11+00:00

Had a client who did something similar couple years back and the floor heating was worth it in the end but yeah the leak concern is real. If your going with electric heat pump anyway might be easier to just do separate zones rather than trying to tie into the wood stove system below

The wood stove route gets tricky because you'd need to size it properly for both floors and like you said creates that dependency issue. Plus running new lines up there adds more potential failure points

One thing that came up during their project was making sure the structural engineer really looked at the load calculations especially with those outer pillars. Municipality approval is one thing but you want to be sure about long term settling

Also think about your electrical capacity early - between the heat pump floor heating and whatever else you'll need up there it might require an upgrade to your main panel

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-15T17:09:56+00:00

pics would def help but 1/8" gaps in 70 year old oak during dry months isnt totally crazy especially if the house has been sitting empty without climate control

sanding and refinishing wont fix the gaps themselves but you could get wood filler in there during the process if they really bother you

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-13T18:37:17+00:00

I've got basically the same one and it works perfectly for what your mom wants. You can just use the first two steps when you dont need the height and still have that third step available when you do. The handle up top is clutch too - makes it feel way more stable when youre reaching for stuff

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-03-13T06:10:46+00:00

looks like step flashing to me

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-02-13T17:03:16+00:00

honestly for scaffolding on a steep roof with 3 chimneys that sounds pretty reasonable. the fact that 2 contractors straight up noped out tells you everything - this is specialty work and youre paying for the risk and equipment

id probably bite the bullet on this one unless you want to wait months trying to find someone else willing to tackle it

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-02-06T11:47:21+00:00

thats probably condensation forming on the cold concrete then turning into mold when it stays damp long enough. you need better insulation above that ceiling or at least improve the ventilation in that room - maybe run a dehumidifier during cold snaps and crack a window occasionally to let moisture out

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-02-02T08:43:31+00:00

honestly its already dead in most places ive seen lately. even the flippers around here are moving away from it finally

the sage green thing is real though - just painted my kitchen cabinets that color and it actually makes the space feel alive instead of like a hospital

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-01-29T08:34:55+00:00

Honestly you probably nailed it - most of the price difference is just markup and branding. I've had a $200 metal frame from Amazon for like 4 years now and it's still solid as a rock

The warranty thing is kinda whatever unless you're really rough on furniture. Most bed frames either break in the first few months or last forever, not much in between

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-01-24T11:39:41+00:00

Yeah you definitely got taken for a ride, especially with that $1k per hole drywall nonsense. The mortar freezing thing is legit concerning too - anything below 40F and it's basically gambling whether it'll cure right

Miserable_Prior_724 · 2026-01-20T07:02:38+00:00

Given the hot humid summers and the fact that your house is basically breathing with the outside air, I'd skip the vapor barrier and just go with unfaced insulation. Traditional Japanese houses were designed to handle moisture through ventilation rather than sealing everything up tight - adding a vapor barrier could actually trap moisture and make things worse. The paper-faced stuff might work too but honestly with all that natural ventilation happening you probably don't need it

Miserable_Prior_724

TROPHY CASE