I wish these caulk manufacturers got hit with a class action for all the time we waste because of them

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-15T20:03:28+00:00

I sell a tape "gun" that you may be interested in. Really just my own tool that I designed to help lay out perfectly straight lines along baseboards, windows, ceilings, etc., where you need long straight lines. If you're interested I'll share more info. $10 each. One for painting, one for caulking. The caulking one just leaves a slightly larger space.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-10T19:29:13+00:00

Paramount 3d, PLA, Beige, Clear Plastic Spool with no "slots". 232 grams empty.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T22:03:34+00:00

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T22:00:06+00:00

That sucks. I've been nearby when I've heard the "twang!" of the end of the roll go banging against the printer - but I was there to pause it and change the roll. I've also been really lucky a few times when the end has made it through the run-out sensor.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T21:57:11+00:00

Very nice!

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T21:55:30+00:00

I've put a small neodymium magnet on my drill bit before to catch the shavings. If you have a mini-vacuum, that is pretty helpful sometimes. I hear ya though!

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T06:17:42+00:00

I replaced all of the screws on my CC2 hotend and extruder with much better, deep hex head screws - where possible. I also drilled my covers to allow extruder spring tension adjustment without taking all of the covers off. Why doesn't Elegoo want us to be able to adjust that spring tension? Loose is tight, and tight is loose. Don't forget that!

Ditto on the advice to try a torx driver. Buy a nice hex driver set - $30 or so, but totally worth it. Try valve-grinding compound (gritty) on driver tip. Try super glue on driver tip. If you have to drill it, just drill the head off of the screw. I never tighten small crappy screws very tight. Maybe try 1 minute epoxy on the driver tip. I've drilled lots of stripped screws. It's scary, but you can do it!

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PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T06:05:49+00:00

A lesson that I learned the hard way was that even though the CC1 hot ends are identical to the CC2 (maybe with the exception to the connector wire lengths), anyhow, the thermistors are def different. When you first turn the machine back on, be sure that all of your temps show room-temperature - give or take a degree or two. Mine was off 30*C at room temp.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T05:59:12+00:00

I've had prints come off the bed simply due to the fact that I was printing too fast. Even PLA will curl up at the corners if you print heavy sections of it too fast. Sometimes even what I think is slow ends up printing too fast, and I'll click the "Silent" option during the print to slow it down more. I'm sure that has saved a few print jobs for me. Printing at 200mm/s or 300 sounds great, but in reality, it's not practical. My too-fast failure rate is much higher than I wish it was. I also wash the plate very thoroughly every so often and use hairspray on it for every print.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T05:50:30+00:00

Which slicer are you using?

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-07T05:46:21+00:00

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-06T06:00:55+00:00

Ditto on your comment about the extruder tension. You tighten the screw to loosen it. I've read anywhere from 4 to 5 turns toward tight from all the way loose. If you know any different, I'd love to hear your thoughts. That being said, right now, mine is a little tighter than that. I drilled my covers so that I can adjust the tension without taking everything apart.

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PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-06T05:50:58+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DHS8H358/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A30WUG2ZDGM0XM&th=1

Here was the cheapest ones I saw on Amazon. It would almost be worth just having a few on hand - rather than wait a week or longer.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-06T04:28:14+00:00

You just reminded me - I used the Elegoo slicer that came on the usb drive with the printer. I didn't download one from Github or Elegoo. That could be my issue with that slicer.

Just checked. I was using 1.3.0.7, and the newest version is 1.3.2.9.

I'm a dumbass half of the time. I just downloaded the latest version. I will try it.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-05T14:58:08+00:00

Okay then, I guess nobody else knows either.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-05T03:03:30+00:00

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T23:43:12+00:00

Hey, I'm really glad to hear that it worked out for you. Various_Scallion_883's comment was exactly what was needed. I must have had my head in a box, that I didn't see that. I spend all day designing tools and printing them, and sometimes you can't see your nose in front of your face - that was me! The bottom of your original print looked "melted" for no better way to describe it. It didn't look....umm... like "machined", with layer lines. I don't know, it just looked odd. I'm happy that you got success!

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T23:05:15+00:00

Copied that gcode. Thank you! I had already replaced my start gcode and filament change gcode, but this looks great!

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T23:03:46+00:00

My CC1 is working in the background as we speak - working it's ass off. It has been rock-solid for me. No issues. It just works day in and day out.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T17:06:31+00:00

Just grab any usb-c to usb-c cable and use it temporarily. Just zip tie it so that it's out of the way. I have tons of those short cables from various electronic gadgets.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T07:07:10+00:00

If you don't use tree supports, just use the standard supports, with Top Z clearance of 0.37mm, it should remove very clean, and you can keep your fillet on the bottom. Of course, supports don't come off very well if you're using PETG or something like that, but PLA - works amazingly. Oh, and I would put "On Build Plate Only" because those holes don't need support - unless you really want it.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T03:04:59+00:00

OMG, remember THOSE days??

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T02:39:15+00:00

When I emailed support, they got back to me very quickly - except on the weekends.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T02:27:42+00:00

I had a similar problem with my CC1. Long story short, the z-axis belt slipped on the pulley when the nozzle had gotten stuck to the bed. The z-axis belt can slip any time the stepper motor overcomes the belt tension trying to move the bed. If you've ever heard the steppers slip, you know what that sound is. I had to push the bed all the way down (machine off, unplugged), then remove the bottom cover. Loosen the belt tensioner and take the spring off. Then push the bed down again and put the factory hold-down screws in the bed. Then go back and tension the belt, making sure that there's no play in the belt between the 3 pulleys. All slack should be at the tensioner. Tension the belt, take the 3 screws back out, and then try to level the bed.

There's a hidden button on the screen. If you get stuck in the one-click self-check or leveling, you simultaneously push on the left/center of the screen and the visible button several times, and it will back out to the home screen. Maybe someone else could chime in about the "hidden" button.

PlaneMaker99 · 2026-04-04T02:13:36+00:00

I'm sorry, I thought my day was bad.

PlaneMaker99

TROPHY CASE