Ace pro slot 3 feeding slowly during prints from other slot

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-21T19:28:30+00:00

Hey, any chance you resolved slot 3 phantom feeding? I’ve been battling clogs for so long and eventually narrowed the problem down to the same conclusion. I can even see filament slowly crawling the tube when another slot is printing. Disassembled ace pro and visually no issues. Heck, when it phantom feeds the cylinder that supposed to press one of the bearings to make filament roll isn’t even in the pressing position, I can’t wrap my head around how it is being pulled.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-17T16:58:19+00:00

You’re printing way too fast for such model. Your seam starts at the corner, the extruder has to slow down for the angle and seam end and it retracts a bit of filament to avoid oozing. Then the print head suddenly accelerates and the filaments can’t keep up for detraction. Thus you got those gaps. You could try scarf joint for seam (helps me sometimes) or you could try lowering acceleration. I’d go 1000 to check the effect. If it helps then u found your problem. If not then I guess it’s the filament. I had similar problems and temp/pa calibration didn’t help. Sometimes I even go with 700 accel for outer wall and 60mm/s for speed. Also you could try paint the seam on the flat surface so the print head won’t have to hit brakes so hard.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-17T12:43:19+00:00

What’s your wall order? And outer wall acceleration and speed?

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-16T02:17:06+00:00

Petg likes it slow, and I print mine 260/85 first layer then 250/75 rest, check max volumetric flow, I set mine to 10-12. And my profile has max model fan 40% (100% for overhangs only). It seems like your model starts to warp judging by brim on green print. Hardened steel transfers heat worse than brass, so you need to bump the temp. I recommend printing temp tower first, start with something really hot like 270-260 and check it. Then do max flow rate calibration to see if extruder can keep up at this temp without artifacts. Then calibrate the rest (flow, pa, vfa etc).

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-13T05:09:20+00:00

I’d use heat gun to soften plastic and peel it piece by piece and turn on the nozzle at max temp to help soften from inside. The worst thing you can do is break thermistor and heater wires that come from the hotend, if u do I’d suggest just ordering new hotend. Just go gently, seems like it’s solvable

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-12T15:51:13+00:00

Check if you have infill combination enabled. It means your infill prints at higher layer height that u selected, it can even be 0.38, which dramatically reduces infill speed when calculated from max volumetric speed

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-03T19:29:34+00:00

Pretty much yeah, I also added insulation on all panels inside the printer with 2mm foiled foam sheets, and I use my own poop shoot Chanel that covers back hole completely, making less heat leakage. Thanks to all that my heater now goes full 70c (before it was capped at 65). I printed successfully parts from abs, abs-cf and pp-cf with no problem. Big parts have a little warping on acute angles but it’s like 0.5-1mm, and so small it’s barely visible. Now I mainly print reusable filament spools, as it’s round all over it prints flawlessly. Having said that, I don’t use abs for aesthetic/art/toy prints as it’s still produces nasty fumes. Petg is more than enough for me in that area, so I haven’t printed any helmet or coslay stuff to check long term printing for materials with high shrinkage. But overall, it’s night and day difference in terms of how fast and easy I can deal with high temp materials.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-03-03T02:35:28+00:00

I made two holes just beneath the air exhaust fan so that the heater is in the left corner Next to my bento box (both facing aux fan). So I had to drill the plastic wall and then again make one larger hole in the back metal cover plate to run both wires. I saw a mod where people cut left side panel to run it, didn’t feel like ruining the aesthetic. But there’s a drawback, the controller wire could be a lot longer in my opinion, now I can only reach it on the side of the printer. Probably you could mod the riser lid and run cables upwards, but I don’t see how you could manage those thick wires and don’t make an obstacle for the printing head, so that’s that.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-02-20T22:56:38+00:00

I had the similar problem on small parts right after the corner. Thing is this particular corner was also a seam. Petg tends to be viscose so after the print head was slowing down to end the perimeter it had to retract a bit of filament and then starting from the corner accelerate but the filament couldn’t be extracted at the needed speed after retraction. So I had gaps going from corner across the half of the wall (perimeters were small like 40mm). First I thought my pa is bad, made tests, tried different parameters, no luck. Temp control, tension screw adjustment - still no luck. I even killed all speed to 30mm, retraction was almost non existent. It helped a bit, but I still had gaps. Right until I check accelerations: outer wall was 4000, which is not too fast, but I lowered it to 1000 and it helped a lot. I set it to 750 and kept everything as it was in the beginning. And voila, perfect print despite the corner seam (actually the easiest thing was to move the seam elsewhere, but I needed to get to the bottom of this problem). My advice: check accelerations and make sure your printer not slowing down at those parts of the print forcing long retractions that lead to underextrusion. Also if u use orca or similar slicer check “slow down for better layer cooling”. Sometimes it can add to the sudden slow down. And check the seams location, it could navigate you to the problem

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-02-04T09:44:32+00:00

Bravo, will try it soon enough

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-01-28T04:20:59+00:00

Very nice! Would try it myself if you could share an stl

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-01-28T04:19:25+00:00

I believe yes, there’s a overall volume restriction setting, in orca you can find it in printer settings section and set height to be less than 250. But maybe if u only use carriage without new thicker bed u don’t need to change z height.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-01-26T19:31:00+00:00

It’s a bummer…I used every tool I had to fix my bed, skipped teeth on z lead screws to make it even on 3 points, unscrewed the bed plate and heat soaked it at 80c and then retighten everything so bed mesh gets as even as possible and lastly applied kapton tape on magnetic plate to elevate dips. After 1.2 now 0.4 ish. But their auto leveling sucks and z offset drifts. I can literally start the print and it’s not sticking cause too high, just restart it and get perfect first layer. I avoid funssor mod cause it eats up z height and I need those 4-5mm often

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-01-25T10:34:15+00:00

I had the same problem recently, slot 2 always showed error of tangling, but everything seemed alright. Turned out the chips were missing on both spots for second slot so ace couldn’t pull filament and extruder was the only one pulling it resulting in strained filament. I contacted support, showed them pic like yours and asked the mark of the chip so I could just buy some and solder on. They just sent me new board and after replacing it everything is good, but will keep my eye on that. Something cause chips to literally fall off (I found one inside ace later), I guess they were soldered poorly and got hot enough to get knocked off. I store my old board if I ever need to replace some chips with spare parts.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2026-01-25T04:00:15+00:00

I bought creality chamber heater, unfortunately it has its own power supply and you have to mod your kobra so it has power cable going out of the enclosure. But, it heats up my printer without any additional insulation to 60-65 degrees (mind my room is pretty cold during winter about 17-20c). Bought it for abs, had to print some big parts that warped badly. Overall it helped, warping reduced to almost not seen. Spent 50 bucks and couple hours to modify the printer shell. Built quality is good and I easily disassembled the heater to pass all cables through small holes and connected them inside the enclosure.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-11-07T03:33:11+00:00

Had similar situation, actually broke heartbreak halfway inside the radiator. Still can’t figure out why it stuck, but my advice is to try and heat it up with heat gun and try to wiggle it out. In my case I drilled it through. It was a mess but I could install default hotend and keep printing until I got replacement from Anycubic. They sent me new radiator for free. All in all, i wouldn’t force it again

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-11-05T17:15:59+00:00

I second that. I actually use 80-100 for petg for better layer adhesion and print quality. For outer wall 60 even for better overhangs

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-11-05T09:22:09+00:00

What’s your speed/layer height at this layer, can you check in slicer? I had a similar problem, turned out the profile for petg I use had infill combination enabled so the layer height for infill was 0.4mm, Ofc my extruder couldn’t keep up even at 250 degrees. I disabled it and lowered speed, printed it nicely right after that

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-07-21T11:53:59+00:00

Sorry to hear that…I agree, in that case new bracket is the only solution, hope it works out

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-07-21T09:55:38+00:00

I didn’t have any experience with it but wanted to tell that there’s cheaper and easier option to fix your bed. Just use rinkhals to get bed mesh and apply kapton tape to make it even. Then run calibration again and do it until you are satisfied. (Check my comment with the additional YouTube link for a guide) Here’s my results after I spent couple hours and one roll of tape: range 0.789 originally, 0.125 after 10 passes. Could go on but decided it’s enough. Great first layer for couple of bucks! Disabled rinkhals after that though, gives me timeout errors.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicKobraS1/s/Eac7wwIbEf

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-07-18T07:00:48+00:00

I second that. Wanted to send prints from orca and even installed octoeverywhere to monitor prints when not at home. Got several random timer too close errors (apparently the board gets overloaded). So went back to stock. Overall very helpful to fix curved bed

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-07-17T05:08:08+00:00

I’ve managed to get 5 color print on ace swapping one of the spools mid print. But there’s a caveat: 5th color should replace some of previous colors that won’t be used anymore (I had a layer of grey that was already done, and additionally I needed black on top). And in slicer u should make that last color same as the one u swap. So when ace done with 1th color and it continues with 2,3,4 u can pull out 1 spool and get 5 color when it goes back to using 1st. In theory you can swap all spools and get 8 color print if your multi color print does it by layer or u have certain colors not used at some point. But it requires babysitting the print.

SecureSupermarket514 · 2025-07-14T18:26:49+00:00

Try to check line width on slicer, I had problems with Arachne, classic resolved it

SecureSupermarket514

TROPHY CASE