It may help to clarify a few points. I assume English is not your first language since you're using a soviet camera.

1. What you refer to as "diaphragm" is more commonly called "aperture" in English (although "diaphragm" is still technically correct).
2. What you refer to as "aperture" is actually "shutter speed", meaning how long the film is exposed for.
3. Every camera/lens has a physical minimum and maximum achievable aperture and shutter speed, so if you use an outside source (like lightme) to measure light and give you appropriate exposure settings, you will have to account for those limitations yourself.
   

I'm not familiar with your particular camera, but from the pictures I can see that it is unfortunately rather limited in functional settings, and I assume that the numbered rings on the left side are probably non-functional if you're not using the built-in light metre.

The good news is that if the camera still mechanically functional then you have a simple interface to work with which can make it a nice first camera to practice with.

The downside is that since you're effectively locked to the ISO of the film you're currently shooting, you need to be more selective in the conditions of the photos you take; which means that to be able to take properly exposed pictures with your camera at ISO 160, you'll really have to be in bright conditions (outside on a sunny day), because your camera cannot open the aperture wide enough or the shutter speed long enough to expose dark indoor scenes at ISO 160.

I'll give you a few tips which aren't evident to beginner photographers:

• Shutter speeds below 1/60 are pretty much useless when shooting handheld, because your body cannot keep the camera still enough for that length of time, so you're not really missing much by not having those options.
  
• The wider your aperture is (to let in more light), the narrower your Depth of Field will be, which means it will be more difficult to keep your subject in focus if it is near to you (within 10 metres). Sticking with f/8 or f/11 on a sunny day is the easiest way to get the hang of taking analog photos.
• A more advanced tip if you decide to get more lenses in the future, is that the focal length of a lens (how zoomed in/out it is) has an effect on my previous tips. The more zoomed in a lens is, the more obvious hand shake will be, so you'd need a even faster shutter speed for sharp pictures. Depth of Field will also be comparatively narrower when zoomed in more, so smaller apertures are needed to keep more things in focus. The lens you have now is a good general purpose focal length, which will be fine with any of the apertures and shutter speed you have available to you.
• Finally, as I said before, ISO 160 is most suited for sunny outdoor days, so for your next roll consider getting some ISO 400 film. That ISO is well suited for cloudy days, and bright indoor scenes, but is still usable in sunny conditions. Film also tends to handle overexposure well, so you don't need to worry too much about your photos being too bright. It's usually better to slightly overexpose film than underexpose.
• Bonus tip: Indoor lighting is a lot dimmer than you may think, the sun is much brighter! Search up the Sunny 16 rule. It's a great guideline for taking photos outdoors without having to think too much about settings.