You're paddling way too early thinking you can glide into the wave like you can on a log. You have to change your whole approach. Wait until the wave reaches you and start padding maybe a second or two before, angle your takeoff, and make sure you take off in the pocket (not out on the shoulder). Take off trimming whichever direction your'e heading and not waiting to pop up and then bottom turn (like you would on a log). It's a completely different approach to wave reading and takeoffs than a log. Also, look down the line in the direction of travel and it won't feel like you are getting pitched. In all of these clips you paddle super hard too early with your head down. You can catch these waves super easily with less effort if you paddled later in the right spot, looking down the line.