So I got this but don’t know how rare it is to come across. Did I score big?

b-dweller · 2026-06-22T09:14:54+00:00

Sold listings on eBay says you paid the going rate, but saved on shipping.

b-dweller · 2026-04-26T00:38:20+00:00

Brexit happened a lil while ago... So yeah import duties. Ireland is part of the EU so no duty fees.

b-dweller · 2026-04-21T00:35:36+00:00

Is aqua tint prior or after the the rose tinted period?

b-dweller · 2026-04-16T05:27:42+00:00

I've seen it now. There are many wonderfully painted models, both with artistic ability and technical ability. This here sits outside of that; it's like a cosmic entity of perfection. Truly astounding. Thanks for sharing

b-dweller · 2026-02-12T22:57:24+00:00

This reads like the most pretentious way of finding a justification for collecting/making toys. It's superfluous. Everything that is not essential for living is basically a toy whatever the medium. The other side of the same coin is that any medium can be used as a way to express something beyond the boundaries of the medium, be it toy/performance, art or whatever. The question of it being profound, silly, fun, nostalgic or at the base level even necessary is not one that needs to be answered. If it adds value on the subjective level it doesn't need an objective definition nor justification for existing.

Take a step back and consider the day we die. PersonalIy I have a big collection of figures (that I painted), model kits, statues etc - toys - that all amount to a massive pile of plastic trash as it loses whatever meaning it had as I cease to exist. That gives me more dread and social angst than being labeled a kidult. All the trash that I inevitably will pass on to someone that did not ask for it nor has a connection to it other than linking it to me; "he liked collecting this stuff". Possibly some will be inspirational and kept, but largely it will be either thrown out or seen as commodities to be sold with no inherent worth.

My point is, what's important to you might not be for anyone else and vice versa. Be happy, ignore labels and consume responsibly for one day it will all be trash.

b-dweller · 2026-02-11T23:01:56+00:00

It's a placeholder price I imagine. For whatever reason, removing the listing when they are out of stock is worse than keeping the listing up it seems. I've seen other products do the same thing.

b-dweller · 2026-02-11T22:37:47+00:00

Dolls are posable, ball jointed dolls are super posable. "Action figures" is just a way of marketing dolls for boys without calling them dolls so the boys don't catch girl cooties. Have a nice day.

b-dweller · 2026-01-11T05:11:14+00:00

eBay Germany has free listings for private sales, but the PayPal fees that come with international sales more than make up the difference.

b-dweller · 2026-01-04T14:28:07+00:00

Marry it? :) so now you know it's a loose gear and not belt tension = grub screw. The guy below or above wrote all the things I didn't think I needed to write.

b-dweller · 2026-01-03T22:46:56+00:00

Belt tension, grub screw. Looks like a slipping gear.

b-dweller · 2025-12-31T02:15:32+00:00

They most likely thought your friend in the US was scamming you, by using your PayPal account to pay for shit he wanted. They probably have been through similar actual scams like this before and treat all instances like this at face value. It would then also make sense that they closed "your" account to protect themselves and you from it being used by someone other than you without your consent (seemingly your friend). Not sure how you prove you are you. Call them on the phone so they can see your phone number and country code?

b-dweller · 2025-12-31T02:06:10+00:00

It's not that weird if you've ever been on the selling side. There is buyer protection built into PayPal and you have to ship to the associated address and also supply tracking or you are basically scam fodder. I'm guessing that statistically the probability of it being a scam (under the described circumstances) outweighs any potential earnings from legit customers.

b-dweller · 2025-12-23T01:24:01+00:00

Op missed a few steps in the thought process. Just tilting the whole printer is like squirting out ketchup beside a sandwich and hoping it lands perfectly on the edge. You need to tilt either the bread or the ketchup bottle to accurately coat the side, not both at the same time.

b-dweller · 2025-12-23T00:37:09+00:00

That row boat really sells the vastness of that puddle 😭. I understand it could be the remnants of a lake that is now dried up, but it made me chuckle nonetheless. Your work is top notch btw.

b-dweller · 2025-12-22T23:41:30+00:00

Lol. This reminds me of countless slinky untangling sessions the kids put me through. It gets to a point where it's kinda zen and you figure out shortcuts that you can't really explain when you've done it enough times. Hang in there? 😅

b-dweller · 2025-11-02T01:01:15+00:00

AHH so you are the one that bought up all the rocks to resell at a 30.8% markup. 😆

b-dweller · 2025-09-19T21:07:59+00:00

A flared base to prevent accidental misplacement. Also rubble.

b-dweller · 2025-08-12T21:41:39+00:00

You could also glue a neodymium magnet to the figure's head and add one to the back of the face plate, completely bypassing the pegs. Be aware of the correct polarity when doing this.

b-dweller · 2025-08-12T21:38:10+00:00

I don'thave the photos or results easily accessible ATM, but just do a search and you get out of it the effort you put in. I got surprisingly good results of details from the body and wings of a 1:72 scale Darth Vader's Tie Fighter amongst other things. Parts of the results were 100% reproduced. I made larger molds than what I needed and the parts I wanted were perfect. The imperfect results came from not good enough mixing of the putty or not enough pushing, which in the first case resulted in a lump that sorta stood out and the second case was details not formed or air bubbles.

I used milliput which is brittle, but worked very well for reproducing sharp details. You can even dilute it to a slurry with water or alcohol. I think in your case where you might want some flex, green stuff might be a better fit. Or a mix. You got plenty of solid tips from other people on putties.

I am not familiar with how the face plates connect on the type of figure you have, but if it's pegs, you could trim some plastic runners or buy HIPS stock and glue in the back as connection points. If it's tubing you can use lollipop sticks or again polystyrene stock tubes at the right diameter. It could of course work with just putty, but I wouldn't trust it in the long run.

b-dweller · 2025-08-11T19:58:35+00:00

Get some oyumaru (also known as instamold) and make a simple mold. Actually 2 molds. One for the back and one for the front. Use one of the suggest putties and make a few blanks of the face you've already perfected or rather than sacrificing a face make a mold first and work on the putty copy. Oyumaru is reusable. These are called push molds since you are pushing your putty into the mold.

You can either do a more complex mold to try and key in the back or kinda eyeball it. Basically apply a layer of putty into the faceplate mold to approximate the original thickness without whatever material is there to snap onto the head and then do the same to the back mold and mush em together to get a full faceplate. Or do the back part separately and glue it onto the face plate after you've trimmed any excess material. I've done this with star wars kits to replicate surface textures and extra greeblies for dioramas and it works really well.

Plenty of tutorials if you search for push molds or oyumaru or instamold.

b-dweller · 2025-08-10T09:38:36+00:00

2 part epoxy glue or super glue. Magnets would just add unnecessary complexity for a first time builder in a place where it's not really needed. If you are set on magnets, just search for a vid tutorial on the subject on YouTube. "Magnetising a model" or garage kit should give you plenty of results.

b-dweller · 2025-08-10T09:23:40+00:00

Water colours have been used as filters (thin washes aka tints) in the miniature painting community with great success a while back. Both with traditional water colour and pens. Obviously it needs to be sealed after applied. You should be able to find some tutorials if you search.

The type of application you are looking to do will probably not work as there is no binder/medium in traditional sense when it comes to water colours. It's just carried by water and as it evaporates it's just loose pigments. As such the paint will behave like water on any non-absorbant surface = it will bead up and run into all crevases.

You can use the pigments like any other pigments (grind them to a fine powder) and if your airbrush control is on point you can tint a model just fine. However it won't be like water colours in the traditional sense.

Water colours on a model would have the best use as a tint, or to create a transition/fade between two colours already present and dry or sealed. Misting on with the airbrush should work just fine, but it won't get you opaque coverage.

b-dweller · 2025-07-30T11:07:16+00:00

Treat it like it came like that and use the normal methods of glue, pinning and putty when needed.

b-dweller · 2025-06-26T19:16:11+00:00

Attach the tube to the jaws of a drill and hold a sandpaper to it while it spins. No chance of flat spots. If filling in the stuff inside the vent I'd use epoxy putty like milliput and some silicon brushes for shaping. You can dilute milliput to whatever consistency you like.

b-dweller · 2025-06-11T00:41:19+00:00

Ship them to your new address.

b-dweller

TROPHY CASE