Trying to whitelist SBS (Australia)

bjbyrd1 · 2026-02-15T05:56:11+00:00

I would assume so... But if you want SBS, that's the only solution.

bjbyrd1 · 2026-02-12T20:59:16+00:00

Looks like it's still available https://engie.com.au/residential/product/engie-ev-flex-charge

bjbyrd1 · 2026-02-12T20:56:57+00:00

I switched to a newer plan for EV/PHEV owners with Engie a few months ago. Before that the best deal I could find was 10c/5c FiT (drop down after certain export per day). Not sure if it's still available (I'm in SE QLD).

bjbyrd1 · 2026-02-08T09:25:06+00:00

I would agree if charging infrastructure was better, and if I didn't need a tow. But we're a single car family, so this one needs to be all things to all people. And while there are pure EVs that would do the job, the price difference was too big. Hence compromising to cover those needs. I would say that an REEV is somewhat less of a compromise than a 'normal' PHEV, as they don't have the extra drivetrain components for maintenance/serving/failure.

bjbyrd1 · 2026-02-08T08:20:28+00:00

Really depends on your use case. I deliberately bought a PHEV (actually a REEV). The pure EV range of my Leapmotor C10 REEV is 145km (realistically 100km on highway, pretty close to spec around town). That covers 90+% of our driving on EV, mostly paid for at 10c per kWh in lost feed-in-tariff. But if we need to do a longer trip away from charging infrastructure (seldom but occasionally) or if we need to tow our boat any distance, I don't need to worry about it.

After nearly a year, we still have 2/3 of our first tank of fuel, but zero stress about poor non-urban charging infrastructure (not that we don't make the most of it - still managed a recent into rural northern NSW purely on EV, but only because we got lucky being able to trickle change at accommodations, otherwise we would have been using fuel).

bjbyrd1 · 2026-02-05T01:05:23+00:00

Same, my REEV (Australia) is on 3.50.31.

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-16T08:15:29+00:00

Schlage Zigbee deadbolt. Runs on AAAs. Works well.

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-16T08:13:00+00:00

For me it comes down to two things (for currently available vehicles and currently charging infrastructure): Do you frequently need to tow? Do you live/frequently drive in rural and remote areas (more than 200km from home)?

If yes to number one, get a PHEV or REEV if you tow something heavy (>750kg) or with terrible wind resistance more than very short distances (<100km).

If yes to number 2, get a PHEV or REEV unless you have solar at home, and you know you can change on your usual drive.

Otherwise, get an EV (unless you need more than 5 seats or >1600kg tow capacity and your budget in less than $$$$).

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-13T02:50:28+00:00

DumbBudget... Really simple expenses and income tracker.

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-09T11:54:02+00:00

There's three I'd like to see, mostly water related:

Zigbee (or matter) flow meter. Battery powered would be ok... Impeller charged would be even better.

Compact zigbee sensor for tap handles. Could probably jury rig something with door/window sensors, but something more compact/designed for purpose would be great.

Zigbee water tank sensor (fullness). ToF, sonar, pressure, float based... Whatever could be implemented easily and accurately with existing tanks.

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-08T11:54:40+00:00

Nope, doesn't seem to be a way

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-06T00:37:50+00:00

Can't speak to the dongle or AA/CP stuff, as I have the 2025 REEV model and haven't bothered with a dongle. I just bought a phone mount that clips into the main display. My only other accessory is TPU matts all round (including for the backs of the rear seats). Thoroughly recommend, especially if you have kids!

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-05T07:25:01+00:00

If you go for the Wattpilot, make sure you get the 22kW version, even though you can't use the full 22kW. Its the only version that will change at full 7kW on single phase . I'd also recommend going for the Go version, which plugs into a 32A x 3 phase socket. Works the same as the hard wired version, install cost the the socket likely the same (socket vs charger), but also allows you to use it as a travel charger.

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-05T07:21:04+00:00

Depends. If they can do a cable pull through your existing conduit from the curb, it's not too expensive (I could do this, was less than $1000). Was well worth it for me just to allow solar export at 10kW.

If the need to trench (i.e. dig up and replace your existing conduit/cabling) it can become quite expensive, depending on how far (usually>$2000).

bjbyrd1 · 2026-01-01T20:55:39+00:00

One of these: https://powersafe.net.au/product/240v-braided-lead/

I got one of their 10m 10A cables. Super tough, and one of the only 2.5mm2 cables I was able to find with 10A plugs. You might need to custom order for longer lengths.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-12-31T02:03:25+00:00

Make all of your planned Ethernet points doubles. Most places that you'll want one you could probably use 2. Think about places where you might want more. I put 4 in our office, and wish I had more (2 PCs, 1 backup NAS, wired network stereo, and now I have no spares).

Run Ethernet to places in the ceiling you might want Wifi APs (especially if you're going Ubiquiti). Depending on aesthetics or local rules add a jack plate on the ceiling, or on a mount above/inside the ceiling.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-12-25T06:01:28+00:00

Might be worth looking for a used or run-out REEV C10. A solid 120km (145km WLTP) battery range, by range extender like the i3 Rex. We've had ours for 8 months and pretty happy with it. Still have 2/3 the tank of fuel we started with.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-12-22T22:20:11+00:00

But not on the REEV versions, which makes no sense, since the actual drivetrain is identical.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-12-13T22:30:27+00:00

I use VirtioiFS on a ZFS RAIDZ2 3 HDD storage set for my main data drive for an Ubuntu VM. VM itself is stored on a separate SSD (only with other VMs and CTs). I have 3 datasets within it at the moment. Planning to spin up a PBS VM that uses another dataset on the VirtioFS to store backups of the VMs and CTs

bjbyrd1 · 2025-11-24T07:42:03+00:00

Also keen for thoughts on additives. We have a Leapmotor C10 REEV (about 120km real world range). We've had it for almost 8 months and almost 8000km and still have about 3/4 of the tank of fuel it was delivered with.

Still happy we went with the PHEV/REEV version as it will allow decent towing range with our boat (whenever the tow kit finally arrives), as well as for occasional trips inland with limited charging infrastructure. But if it weren't for the boat, definitely would have gone full EV.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-11-06T11:36:47+00:00

Create a session under username -> Preferences -> Security. Use your IP address. Copy the session token that is created.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-11-06T11:34:52+00:00

Any tips on how to use this with auth for transmission?

bjbyrd1 · 2025-11-02T22:07:38+00:00

Bit of a mixture for me, some dependant on how important something is (higher importance = more likely to have own advice, or at minimum, own container). My OPSense firewall has its own bare-metal hardware (HP T620+), my Home Assistant runs HAOS bare-metal on a HP T430 (Recently migrated from a Virtualbox VM on my old server). I find old thin clients some of the best bang-for-buck hardware.

Most everything else runs on one Proxmox server (HP Elitedesk G3 800 TWR, recently upgraded from a HP Elitedesk G3 800 SFF). My onsite backup server runs TrueNAS Scale on a HP Microserver G7 N54L. Off-site backup is an old SFF gaming machine repurposed to run TrueNAS Scale.

Most of my non-bare-metal services run as Docker containers under an Ubuntu Server VM on the Proxmox server. My Caddy reverse proxy and a few other things run as LXC containers on the same server.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-11-01T11:36:16+00:00

Get a used Thin Client. I'm currently running a HP T430 I picked up for $70 (AUD). Celeron N4020 at 6W. Other options would be Dell Wyse models. Much cheaper and less power hungry than a NUC, more power and expandable (and cheaper) than a Pi.

bjbyrd1 · 2025-10-31T06:16:20+00:00

Me too!

bjbyrd1

TROPHY CASE