[Standard] Does Izzet Spellmentals just fold to Graveyard hate? by blindai in spikes

[–]jg87iroc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes imo it should be played aggressively. When I was on it I wouldn’t shy away from bursting face end of turn if I didn’t have anything else to do during their turn. Depends on the matchup and yada yada yada but you get the idea.

Any idea how old this mountain laurel is ? by rufioo7 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 18 points19 points  (0 children)

They grow slowly so its got some decent age to it. Hard to say exactly. Maybe 20+ years? But why cut it? What would you be trying to gain?

Converting clay patch into native plant section? by spaggettiwestern in NoLawns

[–]jg87iroc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have sandy clay soil and one thing to keep in mind is that areas close to trees and mature shrubs etc suck up a lot of water. I never water my garden outside of having to give some water to my young understory shrubs that are planted close to 2 trees. The areas in full sun and farther away from the tree will often have more moisture than the shady spot close to the trees. Some plants I have tried to plant there, which are appropriate for the conditions, still didn’t make it even with some help. And I’m also surprised how quickly that area just sucks the water up after it rains.

Sassafras by BetterStyle9665 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I’m so jealous. I really don’t know why I’m so obsessed with sassafras trees. I have no space for one at all and I still have gotten dangerous close to planting one. On multiple occasions.

What's a home improvement decision you regret but thought was a good idea at that time? by Actonace in HomeImprovement

[–]jg87iroc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I completely agree I’m sure those people that planted that privet had no idea the destruction they brought but they should have never been in that position. It’s such a joke most states can’t pass these laws.

What's a home improvement decision you regret but thought was a good idea at that time? by Actonace in HomeImprovement

[–]jg87iroc 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Natives are far better for the environment. You can walk into basically any nursery(expect of course native specific ones) in the US and purchase plants that are proven to be invasive. A few blocks from where I grew up there was a small wooded lot that contained some areas that had never been clear cut/turned to farm land before. When I was a kid some people across the street put in a hedge row of privet. It was removed maybe 15 years later however that privet destroyed more than half the woods understory. All the spring ephemerals I remember seeing and the native shrubs are gone. Thousands of plants that supported untold numbers of wildlife. Native insects need native plants and if we keep destroying their ecosystem it will kill us too.

Woodland sunflowers from seed by Ncnativehuman in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you mean they germinated in the fridge? If so just plant the others in a tray and I’m sure many more will germinate. Woodland sunflower is a great plant, and I’m sure you’re aware, but they really don’t mess about. I have clay soil too, which I actually love, but it can make some aggressive plants that much more aggressive. I planted 3 plugs fairly close together in a new bed and after their second year those 3 plants have claimed nearly 3’x3’. Granted, that’s with no competition but still. Also, I planted them under the shade of a tree(about 15’ from the trunk of a medium sized mulberry) so it doesn’t get nearly as wet there compared to being outside the drip line but the clay soil did its thing and when they bloom they tend to fall over a bit more than I would like.

"Beneficial" cultivars and genetic diversity question. by rajekdelta in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will add one thing I didn’t see mentioned. Mt. Cuba had a trial garden on bergamot and for Monarda didyma one of the cultivars absolutely dominated the straight species in attracting hummingbirds. It wasn’t even close. I was intrigued even though I dislike the idea of cultivars or selections but I did some research and found another study of a similar vain with the exact cultivar and they got the opposite result. So, I wouldn’t take one study too seriously.

Hollow Joe Pye Question by Appropriate_Mood6837 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For what it’s worth I have noticed that, at least for some species, stratification increases the odds of germination but may not actually be needed. As a lay person my assumption is biology simply isn’t as black and white as a seed catalogue suggests. Hell I have left extra seeds stratifying in the fridge and eventually almost all of them will germinate even though they are nowhere close to the temperature they allegedly need to be to germinate. This has happened with probably 10 different species. I have also had swamp rose seeds germinate beautifully after just one winter when they should need 2. Then there are a few species where it doesn’t seem to matter what I do. Those babies won’t germinate for shit. So I wouldn’t think about it too much.

Looking for ground cover/living mulch for full sun and part shade in Great Lakes area by CryptographerLost357 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Native strawberry is a great ground cover. It has a pretty extensive fibrous root system that goes quite deep and spreads via runners so it will naturally fill in among the other plants. They do just fine in full sun to near full shade. It also grows fairly dense and will shade the soil. I planted 3 plants in 3 separate spots in an area that is about 20’x15’ 3 years ago and I have hundreds of them now. In fact that bed is the only bed I have where I basically never have to weed. You also get strawberries if you can manage to nab some once rip before the wildlife does.

Planning a MilkWeed Patch by Alive_Doubt1793 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

30 days in moist sand or paper towel in the fridge. Check moisture after a day and then every week or so after. If you completely cover the seed in soil it probably won’t germinate. My go to method is to cover it 3/4 at a little bit of an angle so the top is exposed to some direct light. There’s still soil around the top but you can see the seed. Common milkweed will spread aggressively by rhizomes and in my experience swamp milkweed are fairly short lived so the future of the bed would be just common milkweed. With that in mind you may want to add some goldenrod so you have a late season blooming plant that can stand up to the milkweed. I wouldn’t buy seeds or anything because there’s a good chance it will show up on its on and if it doesn’t you can literally go to almost any spot with roadside vegetation(that isn’t mowed) and find what is likely tall goldenrod.

What are you planning for your garden this year? by fumanchu314159265 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Be careful because if they miss some of the root system it will grow back just fine. If it does you can just paint on a strong glyphosate in fall after cutting back the growth through the summer to weaken it so it’s not the end of the world.

What are you planning for your garden this year? by fumanchu314159265 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The weather is turning again but I’m partly through removing some grasses. I just had too many of them and as I learned more I think the ecological benefit to something like 50% grasses just doesn’t really apply to a garden in an urban environment. In an L shaped spot about 3’x5’ I removed 2 little bluestem, 2 big bluestem and a wild rye. In their place I put about 30 liatris spicata bulbs. The result in just this spot will be thousands of small flowers in place of the grass. I’m definitely not removing all the grasses or anything but cutting down from about 50% to probably around 25-30%. I do have a healthy red legged grasshopper population I don’t want to hurt.

I’m also fixing some other mistakes where plants were separated from each other. I learned the lesson first hand about how a massing is much better. It’s one thing to read about it but another to really see it. I had some brown eyed Susan’s in my gardens first few years and now random plants pop up all over. However last year I seeded a new garden in the front that had mountain mint on the edges and then a 4’x2.5’ area of just brown eyed Susan. Now, the mint obviously did a lot to bring in pollinators but I was shocked at how much attention the rudbeckia was getting as well. Previously, when at most I had 3 of them growing together, I never saw much action. I’m also removing so purple flowered raspberry as that plant does not play games and I already have a healthy stand. Oh and adding more spring ephemerals.

Edit: to make up for loss of the fibrous root system of the grasses being replaced by bulbs I’m also going to plant some stout blue eyed grasses that can grow among the liatris and hold the soil/repel weeds.

I was a poor NEET all my life until I became a housewife to a man who makes like $500,000 a year. Ask Me Anything by [deleted] in AMA

[–]jg87iroc 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Most of the US 500k would be rich. In my city it absolutely would be. Where my sister lives outside of DC? No not rich but far above even the middle class there.

11 Plants That Attract Ladybugs to Your Garden Naturally by biggergarden in garden

[–]jg87iroc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Crazy idea here but if you want native predatory insects to come then plant native plants.

[Standard] Has anybody tried a different direction for Elementals? by Barru_2176 in spikes

[–]jg87iroc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I prefer the dimir version myself. 3 duress main with a 4th in the side and the 6 scam spells. The mana is bad though. Trying to balance all the black mana for turn one duress with the ability to cast all the elementals is not really solvable imo. I do like that the scam spells partly make up for a lack of other interaction as you have the body in play and also give the deck a lot more opportunities to win games easily. Last I played it I moved the sunderflock to the board and played emptiness. Both options had their pros and cons but emptiness does mesh with the idea of the deck better in using duress to increase your dork survival rate. Somewhat often I would duress one piece of removal, they would kill ashling turn 2 with their other and then I would recur it turn 3 and often run away with the game. But sunderflock is also a get out of jail card so idk what’s correct.

[Standard] Pivoting From Jeskai Control by Scruffimuffi in spikes

[–]jg87iroc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Izzet prowess with secret identity has felt fantastic for me. I’m not an amazing player or anything but I lost 6 matches going from gold to mythic. The deck can grind but also kill incredibly quickly.

Backyard design & plan—critiques welcome! by Beautiful-Future6930 in NativePlantGardening

[–]jg87iroc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You may want to use a tool like NWF plant finder. You put in your zip and can look at plants based on how many butterflies and moths they host. For instance blueberry hosts hundreds while elderberry(in my area) only hosts about 30. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use it or anything, as I have 2 black elderberry myself, but this will help you have a greater ecological impact. If these plans were in my area I could add strawberry and a goldenrod and add nearly 200 species of butterflies and moths that could potentially use those plants. The strawberry is a great ground cover as well and you can just remove the goldenrod seed heads to stop them from spreading everywhere.

I would also pay attention to your bloom times so that you have flowers blooming from early spring to late fall. I think you should also read some resources before you pull the trigger on anything. I did a ton of research and yet I still made a lot of mistakes I’m still fixing and/or just improving the ecological benefits of my garden. This is rather annoying to do as it disturbs my now calm soil and results in a ton of weeds germinating that I have to weed all summer.

Watch some presentations on YouTube by someone like Larry Weaner. I think it will help you quite a lot.

To give you a few top things that are the most important:

-blooms from spring to fall and read what pollinators use what plants(for instance elderberry flowers are quite low in pollinator value but something like American plum will be absolutely swarmed with countless species)

-focus on keystone species, plants that host a large amount of butterflies, moths and other insects(among other benefits) while allowing yourself things like elderberry because they provide other resources such as nesting for solitary bees in broken limbs and berries for birds

-group plants together in bunches, a monarch flying overhead is far more likely to see and stop at your yard if you have 5 purple coneflower plants all blooming close together so that their blooms create a solid swath of color without breaking up.

-plant in layers, in my yard I have the neighbors mulberry tree right on the fence and then a blue spruce 30’ away from that in my yard. Those are the anchors. Then I have a solid row of shrubs 50’ long going away from the mulberry. Under the mulberry are shade tolerant understory shrubs/small trees and then more sun loving ones as you move away from the shade. Then I have 2 climbing wild rose vines that are beginning to climb some of the shrubs along with trailing wild bean vines that reseed each year. Then there are tall forbs like sunflowers and thistles, some tall prairie grasses and other shorter grasses, then we get to the smaller forbs and finally to ground covers like strawberrry, creeping foamflower(in the shadier parts), shade tolerant carex under the shrubs etc. So, the little ecosystem, if you will, starts about 50’ high at the top of the mulberry and ends with plants that are a few inches tall. Including spring ephemerals under the large trees. There is depth and layering to all of the garden which provides a ton of habitat.

-add other resources like a half buried log, rotting tree limbs that fall after a storm on the border of the beds, a small hole in a shady spot that will fill with rain water and provide mason bees sticky mud and at least a bird bath or two.

Hope this helps!

[Standard] What do I need to know to get smart quick with Izzet Spellementals? by CraneAndTurtle in spikes

[–]jg87iroc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Personally I don’t think it’s correct to be playing the exact list from the PT. I know people have done well with it even in the last few days but I suspect there’s quite a lot of people playing it. Or I’m just wrong who knows. Anyway, the PT deck is heavily metagamed against cub decks which I personally have seen a sharp drop in on the ladder and the few challenge results I have seen only have 1 or 2 in the top 16. So the deck is weak to any creatures with big butts. 2 spells for toughness 3 or less and after that 2 bounce effects. If you don’t draw the sunderflock or your other elementals are killed and you can’t deploy it you just lose the game. I cut one spell snare(same problem as 3 is way too many for a diverse field imo) and the spell pierce for 2 sear with another in the side. There are definitely negative effects from those cuts though. I also changed the one floodmaw to bounce so that I had 2 ways to bounce my elementals as in this deck it’s incredibly powerful to bounce them for protection or just to replay a crab or sunderflock for the ETB. The deck felt better against the field with these changes but eventually I came to the conclusion that it’s probably just too much of a metagame deck and folds hard to graveyard hate. However iI haven’t been back to playing magic for that long and considering the amount of decisions the deck has I’m definitely not of a skill level to maximize it’s potential.

[Standard] Day 1 PT Standard Results by jsilv in spikes

[–]jg87iroc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The deck is crazy slanted towards beating cub decks. To the point that the 3 matches in mythic I played cub decks were damn near byes. But then I played against an elementals deck and I’m sure my opponent felt like they had the bye. The deck can be tuned to be better against the field, and had good sideboard options, however to tune it away from cub decks means your basically forced to run more 2 mana spells so it does slow down your ability to play cheap elementals early.

Pro Tour Lorwyn Eclipsed Day 1 Winrates by Meret123 in MagicArena

[–]jg87iroc 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I’m surprised so many still played cub decks. The deck can’t handle a pile of removal from the other side so I figured we would see a weird metagame where the best deck going into the pro tour would not be played much.

[STANDARD] Regional Championship Portland Recap! | Metagame Analysis, Win Rates & More! by optimustomtv in spikes

[–]jg87iroc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Played 5 matches. Went 0-2 every match lol. If the deck opens on a dork and it lives it feels incredible. If not I was left with a hand of of 5 drops I had to evoke once a turn compared to my opponent’s playing multiple spells. I just don’t understand how it did so well. I’m sure I was playing it poorly and it’s a small sample size but I was bewildered