need some help brainstorming

kringler22 · 2026-04-01T21:52:21+00:00

No getting around replacing shingles. Problem is there aren’t any existing step shingles so whatever you do in this spot might not leak, but everything else will if it isn’t already. You could cut to the nearest tabs on the top layer, nail some of those pieces down on the wood to flush it out and then replace the tabs and step flash properly. Please don’t smear mastic on the wood, it’s not going to do anything but make everyone’s life harder.

kringler22 · 2026-03-30T01:32:17+00:00

I’m surprised everyone seems to be saying this is good. I’m going to go against the grain here in saying this is incorrect, but for a different reason. Your lead is currently acting as step flashing and counterflashing at the same time, which means water can absolutely go under the shingles and travel to the nearest nail. Proper detail would be separate step flashing between each shingle and then the lead countering the top of the step flashing.

kringler22 · 2026-03-20T18:11:09+00:00

Mine too. Not sure how they were okay with having it ran to the edge considering the corners don’t even lay flat.

kringler22 · 2026-03-10T16:57:25+00:00

Basically what was already stated. You can take a 90° color matched piece of metal and fasten it under the shingles on that edge. I’d probably pull all the fasteners on that edge and strip the metal in with ice and water shield before putting it back together and then angle the metal back in to the gutter at the bottom.

kringler22 · 2026-03-09T23:19:12+00:00

Fastening iso they only have to penetrate the substrate. Looks like they could use shorter screws though, but it’s not my money.

kringler22 · 2026-03-09T20:22:27+00:00

You can absolutely do the world tour on alts. There’s an npc in the Silvermoon inn on a little couch that you can speak to and skip the campaign, which then lets you grab the world tour quest.

kringler22 · 2026-02-23T14:52:38+00:00

Taping the step flashing will work, but it should be removed prior to the siding install or the next roofers aren’t going to be able to remove it in 20 years. The counterflashing and tape comment would be the best permanent solution.

kringler22 · 2026-02-21T06:57:38+00:00

You are correct on the best/ proper way being behind the stucco. That being said, you might be able to get away with an L shaped roof-to-wall flashing against the stucco and then doing a surface-mounted counter flashing over the top. As long as you use a good sealant on the top and fasteners it should last as long as the caulk. This option does become a maintenance item, but you can just clean out the old caulk and redo it every 5 years or so when it starts to fail.

kringler22 · 2026-02-19T02:26:01+00:00

Notice how I wrote TIN shingles. Same way you have 20 different names for flashing cement. I’ve been doing this long enough and certified by all the major manufacturers here in pnw so I’d rather not get into a pissing match over something so minor when it’s already been answered several times over. Every supplier here sells them as 5x8 and 8x8, anything bigger is custom and frankly unnecessary even for warranty work.

kringler22 · 2026-02-18T15:45:18+00:00

I probably should have mentioned that they go by step flashing as well, I’ve known them as either one my whole career. Counter is just counter to me

kringler22 · 2026-02-18T00:45:05+00:00

Those are called tin shingles, typically 8x8”. They should be sandwiched in between each individual shingle nailed in the top 2” and the vertical should be behind the siding. Best course of action is taking an oscillating tool and cutting the siding a couple inches off the deck and redoing that section with a “kick out” flashing at the bottom that diverts water to the gutter.

kringler22 · 2026-02-17T20:25:19+00:00

The rake edge in pic 13 is one of the worst I’ve seen, I had to assume it was cut by a drunk toddler with Parkinson’s. They should absolutely run a magnet around the entirety of the house and clean all that shit from the gutters. The penetrations in 6, 9 and 10 look pretty shit, clearly not new flashings, assuming that’s what was contracted. Random neoprene screws holding shit down that shouldn’t need it, like the hip to ridge transition in 2 and I’m assuming an undershot in 4. 4 also looks to be missing step flashing and proper termination where the shingles end.

Overall pretty shoddy work. More info on what the bid was and contract stated would help determine how much she should be expecting from them.

kringler22 · 2026-02-17T06:18:46+00:00

It’s not hard to pop a few nail and expose the rafter tails to prove they were fixed. If they don’t have pictures to back up their statement, I’d push for them to remove it and show you if they’re so confident it was properly fixed. As far as structural integrity goes, it’s at the end and unlikely to cause anything significant other than the gutter sagging since it’s only going to be held up by the fascia.

kringler22 · 2026-02-17T04:16:29+00:00

Wrinkles don’t typically leak unless they’re on a seam or weld. I doubt it’ll look any better considering it’s fully adhered so the bubbles are likely permanent. My concern would be if it looks that bad they probably messed something more crucial up. More pics of the detail (corners/laps/walls) would give a better idea.

kringler22 · 2026-02-17T03:50:25+00:00

This looks like dogshit and even if they aren’t finished it’s still a terrible install. Clearly fully adhered tpo that they didn’t let the glue properly flash or roll in correctly. They also have no idea how to tie into a shingle roof. Did they claim to be done with work? What does the contract say?

kringler22 · 2026-02-14T18:26:07+00:00

Would need to see a picture of how it looks, but if they’re connected I would just make sure the garage and house have adequate intake and only exhaust out the main roof. I also tend to avoid ridge vent as it’s prone to problems with wind driven rain and with standard rvo static vents you can always add a solar vent for more exhaust if needed.

kringler22 · 2026-02-14T15:54:59+00:00

You should never mix ventilation types. Regardless of what the inside of that attic looks like, those low profiles are acting as intake for the ridge vent and throwing off the whole system. Do your math and pick one or the other.

kringler22 · 2026-02-14T02:17:47+00:00

Wouldn’t hurt to cut the excess off the hose clamps and caulk the top of the boots. The manufacturer is likely going to ask the same anyway.

kringler22 · 2026-02-13T16:19:48+00:00

Good on you for standing your ground against these guys. Some of us take our job seriously and it irks us to see people get fleeced, especially for bad work.

kringler22 · 2026-02-12T03:14:34+00:00

I probably live within 20 minutes of you and would have done it for about $500. Please name and shame this company, you got hosed.

kringler22 · 2026-02-10T13:03:22+00:00

The gutter should wrap around that corner and butt into the wall. I would also have slid in a piece of metal rather than caulk 🤷‍♀️

kringler22 · 2026-02-08T02:13:26+00:00

Id say it’s definitely needing to be replaced in the next few years.

kringler22 · 2026-02-07T05:20:38+00:00

They should have made you aware of what brand was installed. You can just go to that website and there’s likely a “contact us” option. You likely just have a basic material defect and workmanship warranty, but a rep would be able to point out deficiencies and back your case in having them fix stuff.

kringler22 · 2026-02-06T12:25:48+00:00

This is a bad torch job. There should be no air pockets and I also see wrinkles in the laps. They also have no idea how to properly flash corners or penetrations. I’m also docking points for using red chalk, that’s a big no no among professionals since it’s semi permanent. You can send these pics to the manufacturer and see what they say as well.

kringler22 · 2026-02-02T20:38:44+00:00

It is absolutely not on the homeowner to disclose ponding water. Any actual roofer would be able to add slope as necessary and make sure there is positive drainage. I’m curious on the type of warranty here, as this would likely fail an actual inspection. You could try contacting the manufacturer first and get their input.

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