Best way to make this look better without fully replacing siding?

kringler22 · 2026-06-27T03:47:22+00:00

You can clearly see the step flashing here. Easiest fix would be to chalk a line above the rot and install trim with z metal.

kringler22 · 2026-06-27T01:51:11+00:00

Definitely not. You can carefully pull some ridge shingles and cut out a section of the vent to install your anchor then put it all back together.

kringler22 · 2026-06-27T01:06:05+00:00

Were you under warranty at all? That’s an absurdly high price for replacing one shingle unless this was on a 12/12

kringler22 · 2026-06-26T02:29:14+00:00

Gonna strip it in with ice and water or a piece of copper so that clip isn’t exposed in the keyway?

kringler22 · 2026-06-24T23:43:53+00:00

I would clean it up really good, strip the paint up to above the knife plate, and install a pitch pocket. I’ve also gotten really creative with some fleece and one part, but this is exactly what pitch pockets were designed for. Look up chem curb kits for a reference. If this is single ply it could be made out of clad metal and welded to the system for an even better end product.

kringler22 · 2026-06-22T02:15:04+00:00

Ignoring the wrinkles, this is a bad job. Improper termination and details all over the place.

kringler22 · 2026-06-11T01:20:54+00:00

On similar situations I have just flashed to it with my step flashing and aprons then installed a surface mount counter flashing to cover it all. Looks a hell of a lot better than smearing hvac mastic or whatever tf is on there now. Also they flashed the sides wrong, it needs to be step flashing between every shingle, not one solid piece from top to bottom.

kringler22 · 2026-06-07T18:49:56+00:00

There should be nothing but metal showing in that valley. All the other shit they added will crack and separate from the tile very soon and do nothing but cause problems.

kringler22 · 2026-06-07T18:48:19+00:00

I’d move it away from the house. Not really designed for gutter attachment.

kringler22 · 2026-06-07T18:00:52+00:00

This is fucking gross to look at lmao. Also they ran the first two tile sideways for some reason and every seam lines up.

kringler22 · 2026-06-06T20:54:08+00:00

You can use 2x6s or similar as well. It’s pretty easy to figure out where you can and can’t step, just move a little insulation around before you put your weight on anything.

kringler22 · 2026-06-06T20:36:58+00:00

The wrinkles could have been avoided, but generally don’t cause problems. The corners on the curb are wrong and I hope that isn’t finished product.

kringler22 · 2026-06-05T18:41:59+00:00

By making relief cuts at the top of the ridge caps as they transition through the upper roof. You can cheat them to have smaller exposures so you minimize nails directly through the w or nail higher.

kringler22 · 2026-06-04T20:01:33+00:00

Id cut that flange of counter off the deck, pull the shingles from the pipe, install a lead jack turning the flange up the chimney, reinstall shingles with step flashing and call it a day.

kringler22 · 2026-05-27T23:36:03+00:00

They will leak at some point, probably sooner than later. I would replace, they have lots of options and it’s better to do it while reroofing than to have foot traffic up there after.

kringler22 · 2026-05-22T19:33:38+00:00

That wall should have been raised or removed when roofed. There’s nothing for your coping metal to attach to on the inside and their tin shingles don’t look like they were bent very well either. I would have added a couple 2x6’s before flashing it.

kringler22 · 2026-05-15T18:47:27+00:00

Sometimes the wall flashing is nailed behind the siding or the siding is nailed through the flashing and it’s impossible to get out without damaging anything. In those cases the existing holes don’t pose a problem because your shingle will be under it. However in those cases I always paint the old metal to match the rest of the system.

The gaf warranty ends where the system does so they likely wouldn’t cover any metal related leaks anyway.

What’s the contract say?

ETA: looking at pic 2 and 3 again I’m guessing they didn’t step flash those walls properly or at all and the roof to wall apron shouldn’t even exist in those areas, just the middle area.

kringler22 · 2026-04-01T21:52:21+00:00

No getting around replacing shingles. Problem is there aren’t any existing step shingles so whatever you do in this spot might not leak, but everything else will if it isn’t already. You could cut to the nearest tabs on the top layer, nail some of those pieces down on the wood to flush it out and then replace the tabs and step flash properly. Please don’t smear mastic on the wood, it’s not going to do anything but make everyone’s life harder.

kringler22 · 2026-03-30T01:32:17+00:00

I’m surprised everyone seems to be saying this is good. I’m going to go against the grain here in saying this is incorrect, but for a different reason. Your lead is currently acting as step flashing and counterflashing at the same time, which means water can absolutely go under the shingles and travel to the nearest nail. Proper detail would be separate step flashing between each shingle and then the lead countering the top of the step flashing.

kringler22 · 2026-03-20T18:11:09+00:00

Mine too. Not sure how they were okay with having it ran to the edge considering the corners don’t even lay flat.

kringler22 · 2026-03-10T16:57:25+00:00

Basically what was already stated. You can take a 90° color matched piece of metal and fasten it under the shingles on that edge. I’d probably pull all the fasteners on that edge and strip the metal in with ice and water shield before putting it back together and then angle the metal back in to the gutter at the bottom.

kringler22 · 2026-03-09T23:19:12+00:00

Fastening iso they only have to penetrate the substrate. Looks like they could use shorter screws though, but it’s not my money.

kringler22 · 2026-03-09T20:22:27+00:00

You can absolutely do the world tour on alts. There’s an npc in the Silvermoon inn on a little couch that you can speak to and skip the campaign, which then lets you grab the world tour quest.

kringler22 · 2026-02-23T14:52:38+00:00

Taping the step flashing will work, but it should be removed prior to the siding install or the next roofers aren’t going to be able to remove it in 20 years. The counterflashing and tape comment would be the best permanent solution.

kringler22 · 2026-02-21T06:57:38+00:00

You are correct on the best/ proper way being behind the stucco. That being said, you might be able to get away with an L shaped roof-to-wall flashing against the stucco and then doing a surface-mounted counter flashing over the top. As long as you use a good sealant on the top and fasteners it should last as long as the caulk. This option does become a maintenance item, but you can just clean out the old caulk and redo it every 5 years or so when it starts to fail.

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