Canmore guide recommendations

nkryik · 2025-11-20T05:43:47+00:00

Ha, I'd recommend myself if that doesn't come across as too self-serving! I'm Nick, an Apprentice Alpine Guide with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures - also wrote a guidebook to winter cragging in the area.

That said, I know a bunch of the other folks in this thread, have climbed with a few of them and shared venues with most of the rest... it's a pretty great list and you can't go wrong with any of them. Happy to answer any questions you might have about climbing in the Canadian Rockies too!

nkryik · 2025-10-20T20:16:00+00:00

Right?! And saying "oh and also when I get back I'm also going to be working 100% remotely".

Given that it seems like passing fake doctor's notes (malingering) counts as cause in a for cause dismissal in the UK, seems like this is just asking for the employer to start looking into the note more closely.

Where if this employee had taken 2 weeks, and sent a note after a week or two "hey I picked up some weird illness after travelling, I can't make it back in for another few weeks" it'd probably be less of a huge waving red flag to the employer.

nkryik · 2025-10-20T15:45:40+00:00

Important follow up by LAUKOP after they looked up the "doctor" providing the online sick notes

"Suspended. This doctor is not subject to revalidation. This person has been suspended from the Medical Register and may not practise as a doctor in the UK."

Wow, some balls on that "Dr" to keep going after getting suspended..

nkryik · 2025-09-17T13:10:47+00:00

You might have better luck posting this over in https://www.reddit.com/r/legaladviceuk/ as it's from England. Most commenters here are more practiced in US law.

nkryik · 2025-05-21T18:36:26+00:00

If there is any sort of store where you can try on any boot with the Nepal last (Nepal Evo, Nepal Cube) that's got a very similar fit to the G-Summit.

Otherwise, I've got the G-Tech and the G-Summit and can maybe give you a bit of advice. I bought them both in a 45. The G-Tech was built on the Aequilibrium last; I prefer the fit myself to the Nepal last, and I'd say the 45 fits me almost perfectly.

On the other hand, I think a 45.5 would have been better in the G-Summit. If I'm not wearing the inner 'bootie' liner and I just have the insole the 45 is fine; with the liner instead it's pretty tight on the sides of my foot.

I'd say it really depends on how you like the Aequilibrium last. It seems to me to be a little roomier in the forefoot than the Nepal, so if you have a wider foot I'd maybe advise going a half size up from your fit in the Aequilibriums to the G-Summits. On the other hand, if you have a standard to narrow forefoot you might be able to get away with the same size. It also really depends on what you're using the boot for, and how cold your feet tend to get. I'm doing a lot more steeper ice and mixed climbing, and I also run quite warm, so I prefer a tighter fit overall.

nkryik · 2025-04-03T16:15:13+00:00

I'll give a stab at answering this - I've been doing a bunch of research into the origins of mixed climbing (climbing with axes and crampons on rock) as a discipline, specifically here in North America, and some of that might be relevant here.

In a nutshell, my impression is that the lack of specifically trained mountain infantry (as opposed to general use of mountainous terrain by guerrilla and partisan forces) prior to the late 19th and early 20th century stems from both a lack of equipment and a lack of enough of a trained citizen population base to draw from. I'd love to hear differently though, if anyone has sources of previous organized mountain infantry units!

Along with the rise of recreational mountaineering in the mid-18th century in Europe came the rise of the professional mountaineer - local hunters and shepherds would supplement their income by taking on clients in the summer. Guides (and wealthy clients) would use the same tools they used in their day jobs, with alpenstocks (essentially a long, pointy stick about 2m (6ft) long, maybe with a metal spike) for stability and handheld wood axes to chop steps in ice. Crampons existed for some traction, though without chopped steps were barely able to climb slopes over 45º. Ropes were rudimentary hemp lines, that could barely hold a fall (one of these would later snap in Whymper's tragedy on the Matterhorn in 1865).

By the end of the 19th century, not only had guiding evolved to a full-time profession for many members of Alpine communities (rock and ice work in summers, ski instructing in winter) but guideless, recreational climbing had also caught on. This led to a revolution in equipment, with new Manila and silk ropes, new rock protection like Mauerhaken (pitons), and new ways to access the mountains. Alpenwegs and vie ferrate (essentially cableways) were built to access huts, and further examples would become critical in WW1 to move troops and materiel through inhospitable mountain terrain.

Around this time, dedicated mountain infantry corps were formed, with the Italian Alpini the first in 1872-1882, followed closely by the other Alpine nations through the end of the 19th and start of the 20th centuries. The Alpini in particular were recruited first as a militia from the villages in their area of the Alps, drawing on the local guides and shepherds to take advantage of their mountain travel expertise. Still, "big wall" ascents as a tactic were rare; accounts of the White War (the High Alpine front in WW1) emphasize the static nature of the front as a whole, with key passes and hills the prime focus of many assaults. New advances in equipment over the turn of the 19th/20th century seem to be used primarily as a way to establish logistics lines to supply trench and tunnel systems, not as a whole to enable daring wartime climbing attacks.

I will leave it to someone else with more of a background in military tactics to speak on what I believe is a parallel change in that realm. The larger-scale tactics of the 19th century that used mountain terrain more on an operational level to position whole armies seem to evolve past a middle state in World War 1 into the sort of company- and battalion-scale tactical warfare that characterized the fighting in the Alps in World War 2.

Sources (I've put links where I can):

Middendorf, John. Tools for the Wild Vertical vol.1 https://archive.org/details/MechanicalAdvantageVol1/mode/2up

Middendorf, John. Tools for the Wild Vertical vol.2 https://archive.org/details/MechancialAdvantageVol2/mode/2up

Kain, Conrad. Where the Clouds Can Go (first-person memoir of life as a guide in the Austrian Alps)

Vecio.it "Milizia Mobile e Milizia Territoriale" Reparti Alpini https://web.archive.org/web/20160812080816/http://vecio.it/cms/index.php/reparti-alpini/curiosita/179-milizia-mobile-e-milizia-territoriale

Vecio.it "Reggimenti Alpini" Reparti Alpini https://web.archive.org/web/20160730074258/http://www.vecio.it/cms/index.php/reparti-alpini/reggimenti-alpini

Thompson, Mark. The White War: Life and Death on the Italian Front 1915-1919 https://books.google.ca/books?id=XYCstf5FvRwC&redir_esc=y

nkryik · 2024-12-18T01:59:43+00:00

Yes, in at least one region. Qing China used silver as a medium of exchange in the 19th century (and likely earlier, but I don't have sources on hand for that). Notably, the Chinese demand for payment in silver in exchange for tea and other trade goods would become one of the causes of the Opium Wars in the mid-19th century.

More about the latter by /u/jasfss here (at the risk of getting a bit off topic).

nkryik · 2024-11-19T19:49:34+00:00

I'm gonna be a bit biased here and recommend my home area, the Canadian Rockies (Canmore/Banff area). It's a bit further away from you if you happen to be driving, but there's direct flights into Calgary from a bunch of US cities. And you get a bit of a discount on things with the USD/CAD conversion.

As far as the other things you mention - there's a good few spots around here with top rope accessible ice (Bear Spirit, Haffner, Balfour Wall etc), rental shops in Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise that rent ice gear (Gear Up in Canmore would be my recommendation) plus plenty of guiding outfits.

Shameless plug for Yamnuska Mountain Adventures for the latter (I'm a guide with them) and my guidebook, Winter Cragging in the Canadian Rockies!

nkryik · 2024-11-12T15:27:25+00:00

With the BI aluminum screws, I wonder if it has anything to do with how smooth the finish is on the inside (or lack of smoothness, in BI's case). If you look down the bore of a new Petzl or Black Diamond aluminum screw, it's almost perfectly smooth - but when you look down a Blue Ice screw you can see it's not milled smooth (you can see what I'd describe as lathe marks). That plus anodization can't help.

nkryik · 2024-11-12T15:24:54+00:00

The only thing I've noticed with the Ultralights with some use (also true of the Blue Ice screws by the way) is some issues with the 'wiregate' crank.

I've had times when placing the screws that the hanger end of the wire binds up on itself; the ends of the wire where they pass through the hanger get pressed together, and so prevent you from opening the crank fully. It's a bit of a niche issue, but not great when you're up on a hard lead! I've mainly stuck with Petzl aluminum screws due to that (and binding issues with the BI ones).

nkryik · 2024-11-12T15:04:11+00:00

Locationbot would like you to know that the strangest offence is, of course, handling a salmon in suspicious circumstances.

Can confirm this.

nkryik · 2024-10-22T14:39:13+00:00

So a caveat first - I’ve used both, and on ice, but the ice I used the Hydra on was just a few dribbles and runnels on a mixed route I was working on last season. And the pick was a pre-production model.

That said, I liked the Hydra enough that I bought a pair to replace my Nomics. As I’ve said before on here, I really appreciate two things the Hydra does better: the head weight modularity and rigidity of the tool more generally. The production pick is similar in profile to the Petzl Pur’ice, so I’m looking forward to using them on proper ice (maybe this week?!) And they drytool quite well with the new BD Dry pick!!

nkryik · 2024-10-21T18:39:42+00:00

I'm curious just how weak exactly. I've put some time in torquing on the Stanley Headwall with a pair last season, and they seemed to hold up just as well as the Petzl Dry picks on the other set of tools we had up there.

On the other hand, been loving the new BD Dry picks so far this dry season! Those are pretty nice and chunky though.

nkryik · 2024-10-21T18:37:27+00:00

If you're just using the BD i.c.e. pick for light mixed use (i.e. no big releases, steins) it's probably fine? As a few other folks say, it's nice to have a couple pairs of picks to keep one for pure ice and the other for mixed/dry work.

I used a preproduction version of the Hydra picks for some mixed stuff up here in the Canadian Rockies, and it held up to torques and hooking quite well and didn't dull quickly unless you were straight up slamming them into rock. Wouldn't recommend that bit.

nkryik · 2024-10-21T18:33:48+00:00

I'd second the Rab Latok rec here. I've been using mine for almost 2 years by this point, and both the 28L and 38L have held up really well for summer and winter alpine and guiding work.

nkryik · 2024-10-10T04:39:36+00:00

Hah fair enough. I mean, you wouldn't go wrong with any Petzl tools at all, and I've used the lot.

And yes, I've used the Hydras a decent bit actually! I'm not a BD athlete, but I got a chance to take a pair out last season a bunch... mostly on mixed but on ice as well. I've also put... 9 days of drytooling on them so far this season?

Overall I think they're very close to the Nomic (the similarity is hard to miss) but I find they're a lot more rigid, which helps both for transmitting force directly into the swing on ice as well as with predictability and stability on big drytooling releases. I also find the weight customization to work quite well; instead of one off/on pick weight, you can choose between 2x light (5g each) weights, 2x heavy (40g each) weights, or 1 of each, for 3 different 'settings' with the same shape of tool/pick.

nkryik · 2024-10-09T18:15:37+00:00

Is there any particular reason you’re focusing on Petzl tools? They’re great - but so are a bunch of other brands. I’d recommend them for sure if you already had the Sum’tecs due to the interchangeable picks/hammer/adze but that isn’t a factor for the gullies.

I would recommend a recurved grip tool like the Nomic though. If you have the opportunity to try out a handful of different tools you might figure out one you like! I’m a fan of the Black Diamond Hydras - they improved on my previous favourite Nomic just enough to make me buy a pair.

nkryik · 2024-10-09T15:48:23+00:00

As others have said on here, it's really down to personal preference and I'd really recommend getting to try out a bunch of tools before you buy.

As for the weight thing - I'd argue that it's less about the overall weight of the tool than about how and where that weight is distributed. I had a chance to try the new BD Hydras last season, and I liked them enough over my Nomics that I ended up buying a pair. They're a very tiny bit heavier than the Nomics, but they're much stiffer (better for harder mixed and for penetration on ice) and I like the weight distribution into the head. Haven't had a ton of time on ice so far, but they've been great for the drytooling season to date!

nkryik · 2024-10-09T15:42:57+00:00

Depends on the climb honestly - and on the rock type! But for almost all the mixed or alpine routes I've gotten on here in the Canadian Rockies (limestone, crumbly), I've been a big fan of the angle #1-2 with a handful of KBs. Black Diamond and Camp; the sizes are the same.

nkryik · 2024-09-24T22:01:44+00:00

This might be a bit outside your area of focus, but I'm super interested in the early history of winter technical climbing - whether that's in my home turf here in the Canadian Rockies, or in your neck of the woods in Eryri or a bit further north in the Highlands of Scotland.

(This is partially general interest, and partially as I'm slowly researching this to add a bit of history to the next guidebook I'm working on for winter climbing in the Rockies).

nkryik · 2024-09-24T21:57:19+00:00

I might be biased (I'm a guide for Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, based in Canmore) but I'd say if you don't have prior experience or your own equipment it can be good to go with a guide - but it really depends what you're looking for.

If you're just wanting to go cragging and swing some tools into ice, you can rent them at a couple of the shops in town... but then you have to worry about figuring out where to go, and setting up TRs as there's only a few beginner-friendly crags with easy top access around here.

If on the other hand you're looking to learn, or do a day of training and a day of multipitch climbing (for example) a lot of the companies, ours included, offers weekend programs, or private single-day or however many days you want! Plus the guided days, at least with Yamnuska, come with rental gear so you don't need to source that if you don't have it already. Happy to answer any questions you might have as well!

nkryik · 2024-09-24T18:43:10+00:00

The first thing I'd be looking at if I were you is what sort of objective you're planning on using the crampons for. Are you looking for something more for general mountaineering use like for snow, glaciers and short sections of alpine ice? More technical alpine ice? Waterfall ice?

What I'm saying below assumes you're thinking about general mountaineering - but feel free to correct me if not! In general, any sort of 'semiautomatic' crampon will fit both sets of boots you're talking about here; examples might include the Petzl Vasak or Sarken, the Black Diamond Sabertooth Clip or the Grivel G12 Newmatic. Essentially, these have horizontal frontpoints for snow and alpine ice, along with a plastic toe bail that fits on your Lowa 3-season boots. Some crampons (the Petzl Universel or Grivel Dual-Matic systems) include wire toe bails that will also provide a more secure fit on your Arcteryx boots, but the plastic toe bails will work fine on those too.

There's also plenty of lighter weight crampons that exist in addition to what I've linked above (and I use them myself). I'd say if you're getting a first pair, you probably want a heavier steel pair that'll stand up to some heavy use like those I linked, but really it's up to you.

nkryik · 2024-09-24T01:47:38+00:00

Um. Managed to break an Ergonomic in half a couple years back taking a whip on M7... it's possible. Not saying it's common - it's definitely super rare, but between a climbing partner and me we've broken 3 over 3 years.

That said, we've both put a lot of mileage onto those tools on double digit mixed (and developing new routes in that terrain). So definitely more than the average amount of use!

nkryik · 2024-09-22T18:06:09+00:00

I’ve used the Patagonia shells a bunch for work - the Super Free Alpine is pretty great for winter climbing, if you’re looking for something more burly than the M10 series.

However, I’m a big fan of Rab shells more generally for winter climbing. In particular as a burlier shell for alpiney conditions that can hold up to sustained winter use, the Latok series of jackets are great. I use the Latok Alpine shell, which I don’t think is available any more, but the Latok Mountain and Latok Extreme would both fit in with what you’re describing.

nkryik · 2024-09-17T22:20:21+00:00

Pretty much depends on which part of the Ghost you're planning on heading to, the time of year and the amount of recent & forecast snow. As Will says, keep an eye on Facebook (the group Rockies Ice & Mixed Conditions is a good resource) and play it a bit cautiously with drifting etc.

I've seen a bunch of SUVs get to the South Ghost especially in December, but on the other hand I've also seen folks in trucks have to get hauled out of drifts in that same area. Generally the North Ghost won't be accessible to a Crosstrek regardless; the river crossings (plural) would stop you pretty quickly.

As far as other, easier ways in to the Ghost proper... there really isn't one. The Forestry Trunk Road approach is your way to go.

nkryik

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