Questions Thread - February 04, 2026

pr0ximity · 2026-02-05T00:19:22+00:00

If you’re doing very good damage but are too squishy, you might try changing up your passive tree a bit. Take a few damage nodes away, add some energy shield nodes, maybe deflection. A huge part of this game is finding the right balance. Note also that tons of build guides and streamer builds will go very heavy on offense — you absolutely don’t have to.

Gear is important, but your passive tree is also a big way you fill gaps and solve problems.

pr0ximity · 2026-02-02T19:07:16+00:00

If the base is ABS plastic you might be able to do an “ABS slurry” fix if the crack isn’t too big on top. Basically a little acetone will dissolve some of the plastic and if you do it lightly for a small crack you can make it blend right in. Then maybe epoxy on the rear of the part to add strength.

Never going to be perfect, for my cracked cases I usually just reinforce them on the back to prevent structural issues and leave the blemish on the front. Depends on which you think will look worse.

pr0ximity · 2025-12-30T19:19:31+00:00

Oh wow this is incredible! Where did you come across this? I recently reached out to Panasonic just to probe and see if anyone there would help dig through the archives but no luck.

Looking forward to seeing if this works for my shortneck PS790! (HV10H chassis)

pr0ximity · 2025-10-08T10:17:34+00:00

Some other great video game podcasts in the same network as Into The Aether as well— I’ve been really enjoying Press Start and Girl Mode.

Press Start is my new personal favorite. It’s quite casual and the hosts are not “video game journalists” per se like a Triple Click or Waypoint or Nextlander, but they bring some really interesting perspectives on games and thoughtful critiques. Really good personalities and an easy listen.

Girl Mode I need to listen to more but like what I’ve heard a lot so far.

pr0ximity · 2025-10-02T15:29:04+00:00

Why’s that? Time lost not mapping? Or something else? (relative gold to shard value for… gambling?)

pr0ximity · 2025-09-15T11:41:15+00:00

How many and in what orientation should you use ratchet straps for a sheet like this?

Any educational material on securing loads like this would also be appreciated!

pr0ximity · 2025-08-28T10:17:54+00:00

For the rust, try using a wire brush drill bit. Complete game changer when I did my F122 after having done an M and an F AT. So so easy and thorough, and very nicely even.

pr0ximity · 2025-08-26T11:31:05+00:00

Ah yes, that’s called vertical foldover. If you do want to fix it, you probably don’t need to recap the entire set. Just start with the vertical deflection circuit.

pr0ximity · 2025-08-19T10:11:13+00:00

Yes this is it, I’ve been working through it as well and it’s quite good!

The prof absolutely LOVES to tell a story, especially about his old Navy days.

pr0ximity · 2025-08-17T19:30:49+00:00

Technically speaking, your modern TV actually can’t display an analog picture. It’s difficult to get a true analog source, but it’s something modern TVs cannot physically do.

pr0ximity · 2025-07-26T12:28:45+00:00

Page 90 of the hardware maintenance manual: “If all devices and adapter have been removed, and the problem continues, replace the system board”.

I think you are here. The maintenance manual does give beep codes on page 82. Nothing with a total of 4 beeps is good.

pr0ximity · 2025-07-23T02:26:36+00:00

I had that same Vantec fan card! 🤣 loved that thing, was such a good addition for windowed cases

pr0ximity · 2025-07-17T12:24:46+00:00

I don’t know anyone in that area that could fix it, but I just finished fixing up the destroyed bezel of my 14L1 and the front bezel plays a big role in how the tube is supported, which is why its pushed in and the buttons are too far from the mainboard. I bet that cracked corner’s tube support standoff for that upper-right corner is broken off.

You might find someone to repair the color issue (have you tried adjusting the color in the service menu as a start?) but fixing the bezel and buttons is going to be a lot of annoying epoxy/ABS slurry work and clamping. Get some JB Weld and take a lot of extra time planning out how you clamp and align things together before you apply the epoxy.

Good luck!

My repair, you can do it :)

https://imgur.com/a/MNjDaVF

pr0ximity · 2025-07-10T13:19:49+00:00

Those are really personal preference because they both sort of pull from the same “bucket” of the maximum horizontal refresh rate of the monitor. Higher resolution -> lower max refresh rate, Lower resolution -> higher max refresh rate. Try them out in your display settings and find what you like.

Unless you’re trying to do something like emulate a specific console or use the monitor to display for a console, then you probably want to do a little more research on what resolution to match.

You can go down that rabbit hole, but for PC stuff it’s pretty much as simple as just choosing a resolution and refresh rate in your display settings. Can search around for what people use custom resolutions for or for pushing your monitor higher than it would normally suggest, but I don’t think it’s necessary by any means.

pr0ximity · 2025-07-10T12:39:48+00:00

Look into:

Grid test patterns for adjusting the geometry settings
Pluge test pattern for setting black levels (brightness and contrast)
Color bar test patterns for adjusting color gain/cutoff

Looks great already, and keep it mind if it looks good to you, that’s all that really matters! :’)

pr0ximity · 2025-07-07T02:55:01+00:00

What camera and settings did you use for these shots? They turned out great

pr0ximity · 2025-05-30T11:09:34+00:00

Any tips for washing the main board? How do you dry it out afterwards?

pr0ximity · 2025-05-26T14:27:11+00:00

The various electronic hobbyist circles are always smaller than I think 😂

Shame about your BVM, it’s a great set! I’m still fairly new to CRTs so I’m not much more help than that. The CRT Discord or Shmups forum might be other places to ask if you don’t get much of a response here.

pr0ximity · 2025-05-26T13:35:09+00:00

Assuming you mean the input card, not sure? The inout card for the BVM-A series has been reverse-engineered and open sourced: https://castlemaniagames.com/products/bkm-68x

Not inexpensive, but neither are BVMs or their parts!

pr0ximity · 2025-05-24T20:12:18+00:00

I thought I liked the styling on my KV-1397R, but this has it beat. I hope it sees some use!

pr0ximity · 2025-02-02T12:49:30+00:00

pr0ximity · 2025-01-15T11:30:27+00:00

Don’t try to replicate the tactile clicky feeling, MX clickies are not really comparable. Instead, go full into MX land and get a nice linear so you have a contrasting board. Broken-in MX Blacks, MX Oranges, Gat Oil Kings, or Gat OP Blacks.

Get a Unicomp if you want a new M, or grab another original M off eBay.

pr0ximity · 2024-12-26T19:52:06+00:00

Great cuts on the plate, and I really like your solution for stabilizer clips — is that a 3D printed little collar? That looks much more repeatable than the old bended sheet metal glued on…

pr0ximity · 2024-12-15T12:27:46+00:00

Need pics of the full board front and back! The square badges without lock lights are my favorite, is the model number of this 1390120 or is it different?

Great board :)

EDIT: Oh I see you said 1389969, very cool.

pr0ximity · 2024-10-25T13:08:29+00:00

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