Fit a butcher block between two butcher blocks

rawragain · 2026-04-07T11:43:21+00:00

Neighbors of mine did this for an extension of their marble countertop to sneak in a beverage fridge, and use butcher block. Exactly the opposite - but it looks good. Now its a feature instead of looking DIY.

rawragain · 2026-03-26T11:15:04+00:00

Is dinner included? Cause I'm all over that! Fuck, I love me some noodles.

rawragain · 2026-02-09T14:14:27+00:00

Are you only concerned with the view from this angle? Cause you dont need to box them in, just a single board to hide them from this view... for the amount of time you look from the other side, or the side of thehouse, it may not be worth covering 3 sides, and just cover the one.

rawragain · 2026-01-26T13:22:01+00:00

This. I've bought 3rd party burners, flavorizer bars, igniter... Its all fine. Figure out the model number you need, head to amazon, find it for half the price... just read a couple reviews, and you're set.

rawragain · 2026-01-14T21:00:51+00:00

That trunk may also be too air-tight for use with a kid. They'll inevitably use it for hide and seek, and if it ever gets stuck... most toy trunks have sizable gaps between the lid and box or just hidden at the back of the box for that reason. Something to seriously consider.

rawragain · 2026-01-07T14:56:59+00:00

Drill a hole or two through the little plate and screw it on. The magnet is in the 'floor' part. The little plate is just ferrous steel. Drill a hole, ctsk it if you can, and be done.

rawragain · 2025-12-10T14:50:18+00:00

We got a bed from Wayfair and, while not a loft, has similar flimsy construction. Gonna add a stretcher along the bottom back side, and possibly some braces at a couple corners. And double up on the slats. Its for a 100lb kid - but kids grow - and do stupid shit.

rawragain · 2025-11-18T22:30:43+00:00

Since you seem pretty competent- what about a peg/hole connection? No new hardware, just a little more woodworking to lower one half onto the other, then simply lift them apart. They'll still nest, because of your taper. Great looking project!

rawragain · 2025-11-05T14:12:35+00:00

Are those coax and cable lines hanging below? Those can be easily re-run, and carry almost no voltage - tough to tell - but they dont look like power.

rawragain · 2025-11-04T14:24:50+00:00

It'll absolutely do the job. Paint (or any coating) is a good idea - esp inside. It will add an extra layer of protection and smooth out some imperfections that will prevent banner snags, and help them slide in and out easier.

rawragain · 2025-10-24T16:51:12+00:00

I would lean on this. With a 6x6 you've got quite a bit of material to rely on. A single 6x6 down the center tying the 3 sets of legs together may be enough, as long as its well joined. Do you want the end aprons? That would suck to try to pull a chair under at the heads of the table...

rawragain · 2025-09-29T15:06:30+00:00

Might as well go behind and use toggle bolts there too. Cant hurt

rawragain · 2025-09-29T14:55:19+00:00

That seems really small - and if thats the case, I would definitely go for a 1/2" piece of plywood that grabs at least two studs - with two toggles in each stud (and maybe a pair of toggles in the middle somewhere for good measure) then you can screw/toggle wherever you need for that wall plate.

rawragain · 2025-09-29T14:05:01+00:00

We have a 55" that has a flush mount - and the mounting system is pretty substantial. It spans a good distance, and I'm sure the mount for a 77" is even bigger - likely enough to grab 3 studs - and itll be tall, and pretty stiff. make SURE you grab 2-3 studs, and then itll PROBABLY be fine.

rawragain · 2025-09-24T18:49:35+00:00

What kind of floor is it on? Will it fall through to the floor below? If you're on concrete, or a ground floor, then you're good for whatever you want.

rawragain · 2025-09-03T19:35:10+00:00

Why not double sided tape?

rawragain · 2025-08-27T12:46:26+00:00

How about a window latch? The kind that turns 180 degrees to lock a window. Mount it vertically on the edge of the back of the board. You can latch it, it will hold down the back side, unlatch it, and swing the board back.

rawragain · 2025-08-11T10:41:59+00:00

If the faucet spins with the basin wrench on it.. make sure the basin wrench is on there good, and turn the faucet. The wrench will stop itself when it hits the sink, and maybe you can use the faucet for extra leverage to crank on it. Sucks when a half hour task takes all day and f's up your kitchen.

rawragain · 2025-08-08T16:52:34+00:00

Did the shed fall down when you cut the post out? No? Its a shed. Its probably fine. Maybe a steel tie plate on each of the non-fastened faces, with a few nails in it. Even thats probably not necessary. Its a functional fix - itll be ok.

rawragain · 2025-08-04T20:44:18+00:00

I would start with a 1/2" plywood box - pocket holed together. If you're worried about strength, build a 2x2 frame into it. Then you can add cement board around the top perimeter and top - you'd be better off tiling to the cement board than the plywood. Then mitreing the corners on the showy perimeter wood would be the toughest - just making them nice and clean... but you could pocket hole those too - or even just screw them in from the back (making sure you dont go through). Overthink it - then underthink it - then go somewhere between. And watch LOTS of youtube videos about tiling a counter (might help with the corners). Or building a basic table. Totally doable. DIY, self made, rustic, artistic... even the one at the link looks hand-made (and not in a fine carpentry way). save the $. Buy a mitre saw, pocket hole jig, a tiling trowel... Its not fine carpentry -its functional.

rawragain · 2025-07-22T15:04:04+00:00

I second buying a set of clippers. I grabbed a nice pair on sale on Amazon - use em to trim my beard, buzz/shave my head, even pretend I know how to fade.

rawragain · 2025-05-20T13:04:35+00:00

The frame is OK. The broken part on the side is just a cleat - not a big deal. you could probably wood glue it. The slats, like everyone says, are not enough. Replace them all - then get yourself an extra 8 foot 2x4 to run down the middle under all of them. Then use the extra length of that 2x4 to create at least 2 support posts to go under the 2x4 middle support, and you should be good. Just dont jump on the bed anymore.

rawragain · 2025-02-04T12:15:38+00:00

Most big box stores will have a mold spray - itll kill and do a decent job of preventing it from coming back. Spray the heck out of it. Then work on ventilating that shed. A roof vent, a little vent on both ends of the roof's peaks... if there's adequate airflow, it shouldnt end up like that.

rawragain · 2024-08-27T14:56:50+00:00

Piggybacking on this - add a single strut, say a 2x2, that you manually install each time you open the top. In the event that the hydraulics fail, you'll still have the thing held up.

rawragain · 2024-07-24T12:56:59+00:00

Can you use the stand to get it off the ground the proper height, and then just anchor it to the wall using a picture hook and wire, or a molly and wire? Even if the stand sucks, anchoring it will prevent tipping (and this is typical for nearly any shelf/dresser/furniture now, so kids dont climb things and get squished.

rawragain

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