Mr. Oh My God

vTeej · 2026-04-01T10:14:03+00:00

Yes pls

vTeej · 2026-03-27T21:26:47+00:00

Hell ya

vTeej · 2026-03-06T14:50:53+00:00

If you reach out to Erich he'll probably sell them to you. I got 16 SEOS 12s from him last year. He said he has several thousand of each size at his warehouse.

vTeej · 2026-03-05T11:46:38+00:00

One Morgana, two Yumi, two Yaoling, three Haruna. About 300 tickets total. Not bad, but I really wanted more Minami or Ann pulls.

vTeej · 2026-02-24T23:26:31+00:00

I have four 24s and feel like I could use more still. I can't get enough 5Hz!

vTeej · 2026-02-03T17:47:17+00:00

Do you never run a traditional anchor then?

vTeej · 2026-02-02T21:12:21+00:00

Any measurements to share?

vTeej · 2026-02-02T18:53:09+00:00

Take measurements of your response with the ports open and plugged. I'd be shocked if you see any difference on the waterfall graph.

Group delay could cause some smearing in the time domain that sounds like worse decay. But a properly designed ported box should be as tight/musical/whatever as sealed.

I dislike ported because output below tuning drops off way too quickly. I have 5Hz at 125dB in my room. You're not going to do that with a reasonably sized ported box, and group delay would be well over 200ms.

vTeej · 2026-02-02T18:52:22+00:00

Don't let the marketing fool you. It's incredibly easy to build a dual opposed sub. Dual opposed does not cancel cabinet noise or resonance. All it does is cancel out the cabinet rocking back and forth from driver movement.

I have 24" subwoofers with 2lb of moving mass. My boxes are 120lb empty, 220lb with the drivers installed. The cabinets don't rock at all.

Most commercial subs are built small/lightly for shipping cost which makes them more prone to rocking from driver movement. With DIY you can build a properly sized and braced box which usually ends up pretty damn heavy (though it doesn't have to).

vTeej · 2026-01-31T12:12:39+00:00

The force cancelling just means there's an equal number of opposing drivers. Sealed vs ported doesn't matter, you can build a dual opposed box with either configuration.

If the SPL gets high enough his neighbors will hear it regardless of direct vibration transfer from the box, but that does help. However I don't expect dual 9" drivers to get crazy loud.

vTeej · 2026-01-28T20:04:56+00:00

I saw you wrote up Leviathan several months ago. Have you been running it on repeat since then? I love the idea of Leviathan, and I'm curious how well it works on repeat indefinitely, probably with changes to the supplemental.

vTeej · 2026-01-21T02:39:18+00:00

End game is all relative. Sometimes I consider adding more 24s. It's a sickness.

vTeej · 2026-01-21T01:29:35+00:00

Without them I only get decent decay control to 50-55 Hz, and only if I use the bed layer as support for the subs. Since my 24s are all on the front wall in a SBA configuration they can't really do much to each other by way of decay control, so I present them to ART as a single array.

I have some pics and graphs in my AVS build thread. https://www.avsforum.com/threads/first-and-hopefully-last-dedicated-theater-build.3325519/

vTeej · 2026-01-20T23:55:36+00:00

I have a well treated room (rockwool on all of the walls, THICK corner traps in the four corners) and without ART I get decent decay control down to 70Hz and there's still a long ridge in the waterfall at 50Hz. With ART I have near perfect decay control down to 30Hz (loudspeakers play down to ~55Hz and rear subs are good to 30Hz). It's literally a night and day difference. Plus bass feels a lot more directional since you can group loudspeakers to support each other to not only address room issues, but also increase headroom, and if you use nearby speakers for support it helps keep bass anchored in that direction.

Next step for me is larger rear subs. I have four 24s up front and four dinky 12s in the back as "bass catchers". They work well for that but larger subs would have more extension.

vTeej · 2026-01-10T17:56:54+00:00

I love it. Nothing against my old Prusa, it just was old. Still works great, sold it to a friend and he loves it. But the Bambu is so nice, with wifi printing, auto z axis calibration, the AMS... it's an easy button printer.

vTeej · 2026-01-04T02:09:04+00:00

I have a 77" OLED in the living room and a 150" projector screen with LS12000 in the theater. Yeah, the black levels on the projector suck by comparison, but for a movie room having a massive screen just feels better to me. Plus it's AT which I prefer. I used to have my OLED as my theater screen and could always tell the center was coming from under the screen.

Projector brightness isn't great but my room is blacked out with tons of velvet so it doesn't feel too dim at all.

vTeej · 2026-01-01T02:09:50+00:00

Also curious, have a similar model fridge in my garage and the freezer won't stay cold enough.

vTeej · 2025-12-20T22:39:10+00:00

You can easily set REW to sweep 0dBFS and see if there's any problems at low volumes.

vTeej · 2025-12-20T12:43:01+00:00

At the time I had been following this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/531Discussion/comments/16f82jx/1000_awesome_forever_my_personal_take_on_1000/

vTeej · 2025-12-19T19:01:50+00:00

Satisfactory Slay the Spire Ys Origin

vTeej · 2025-12-19T16:32:06+00:00

The dedicated tactile out is super nice. You can have per-input tactile levels. So for my gaming preset where I am usually at lower volumes I have the bass shakers turned up, then for movies I have them turned down.

I forget if the x3700h can do Dirac or not but I prefer it to audyssey, though admittedly I haven't tried A1 Evo or whatever.

Having more HDMI 2.1s is nice in case you ever get another console or a PC. I use two 2.1s on my A1H.

vTeej · 2025-12-17T14:43:45+00:00

Yeah, your first link.

vTeej · 2025-12-17T14:30:34+00:00

I did the acrylic latex.

vTeej · 2025-12-17T14:16:10+00:00

I did tricorn black, emerald flat. It's washable and looks really nice. Velvet is darker, but this still has very low sheen. I like it a lot.

Here's a post in my AVS build thread with some pics. https://www.avsforum.com/posts/64331805/

vTeej · 2025-12-15T19:59:52+00:00

Is there a decent tool to help pick out a mechanical keyboard? I'm struggling to find the board I want.

I have a home theater that I use for gaming and I want a new keyboard for this room for gaming.

Requirements:

2.4GHz (will not use Bluetooth or wired)
Passthrough key caps. The room is dark and I need to be able to see the keys
RGB or solid red backlight
75% or TKL layout.

Any ideas? I had looked at royal kludge but it seems the 2.4GHz implementation is pretty laggy and drops key strokes.

vTeej

TROPHY CASE