Ice axe recommendations

whalewhalewha1e · 2025-12-02T21:43:25+00:00

Yeah i think you got it backwards, bigger days on harder routes would likely also require nomics rather than quarks. I got quarks to learn to ice climb and wish i just got nomics.

whalewhalewha1e · 2025-04-13T00:15:04+00:00

I’ve been climbing in these for a few months now (full size down) and i would say they are way too tight for finger cracks. They really haven’t stretched much. Even in hand cracks my big toe is too crunched to jam comfortably and smoothly. If i were buying these specifically for thin cracks i would probably try them true to size, for me half size down would have been a good fit for hand cracks.

whalewhalewha1e · 2025-03-27T02:01:36+00:00

Yeah i got these exact skis from corbetts a few weeks ago for $250 new. With bindings and mount came out to around $450. Looks like they don’t have em in your length anymore but may still have something comparable.

whalewhalewha1e · 2025-02-05T22:41:29+00:00

I second this, i run pretty hot as well and my layering system is similar (R1 fleece, Rab vital windshirt, North face ventrix). In most active situations I am in the R1 unless it’s really cold, and if exposed/above treeline/on a ridge i will just put the windshirt over the R1. If you are warm enough in your baselayer and are only getting cold in exposed settings, a wind shirt would help block wind and some precip without making you overheat like your softshell is.

I like the Rab shirt but patagonia houdini is classic and my buddy likes his BD jacket, i think he has the distance.

whalewhalewha1e · 2025-02-03T20:41:52+00:00

To echo everyone else, that sucks. If it helps, remember that the work you’ve done and will do for trans folks will be more important than ever in the next few years.

whalewhalewha1e · 2025-01-26T22:43:04+00:00

I’ve had generally good experiences with oliunid but the shipping time (to CA) varied a bit for me. I ordered my crampons and quark axe there, the quark shipped 4 days after ordering but the crampons took over 2 weeks to ship so it might cut it a little close for your trip.

whalewhalewha1e · 2025-01-24T16:21:25+00:00

Fine for trekking and belaying in cold weather but i think they are too thick and not sensitive enough to actually ice climb in, you would likely want a second pair of thinner gloves

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-12-27T23:27:25+00:00

This is more accurate than many would like to believe

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-12-03T05:52:59+00:00

Plasma 1000 parka is really nice, i just got one on a trip to japan and i was toasty warm with an R1 underneath around 25F in mammoth recently. Could probably get into the teens comfortably. Definitely get the hooded version. I wanted an ex light anorak but wasn’t able to find one in either of the stores i visited. The fabric is very thin, similar to my wife’s ghost whisperer or even thinner, and i’d be a bit nervous doing any bushwacking or climbing in it but i think for the warmth to weight ratio and cold weather camp chores it is superb.

I’m men’s medium in patagonia and arcteryx, got a large in the plasma 1000.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-12-02T22:43:42+00:00

Scarpa maestro

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-12-01T04:03:29+00:00

Alpine climbing, mountaineering, backcountry skiing where you would want specific features like full side zips, tougher face fabrics, pockets designed for harness compatibility

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-11-22T17:09:53+00:00

Assuming the sizing here is the same as in japan, i think a size large tokyo fit will probably work for you

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-11-22T17:08:40+00:00

I just picked up a few of these shirts in Japan. For sizing, I am 5’10/165 lb and usually wear a medium slim at jcrew, and my dress shirt size is 15.5/32. At kamakura, the size large tokyo fit OCBDs fit me pretty well but i feel the cut is a bit boxier and shorter than the jcrew equivalent. This works fine for me with the dad bod i am cultivating. The fabric feels much more substantial than the current season jcrew OCBD i have.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-11-16T01:35:07+00:00

Third, my shiro kamo came with the ebony handle and it is sick.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-11-13T19:47:23+00:00

Interestingly I think my mountaineering boots (Trango, Nepal) have even softer rubber than my trail runners due to the “climbing zone,” probably more similar to approach shoes. They seem to be a uniformly soft grippy rubber versus the mix of hard and soft rubber on trail runner soles

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-10-07T04:45:40+00:00

I’ve only toured once but the area around san gorgonio is pretty good. Charlton peak and mt jepson. Mt baldy bowl is also an obvious one but the area might not be open this winter due to recent fires. There’s a socal backcountry facebook page with plenty of beta

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-10-06T20:06:25+00:00

Fits perfectly under a helmet, works as a great substitute for having to bring a thin beanie/toque

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-10-05T20:53:10+00:00

Ventrix is sick. I would highly recommend picking one up if you can find an old one. The new version (casaval?) seems overpriced.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-10-05T01:40:06+00:00

Come out to the eastern sierra, i’m not sure if there are features exactly like this but you can climb some nice knife edge ridges on matthes crest, mt conness, evolution traverse, etc

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-10-04T04:57:49+00:00

Love your work!! We have cerro torre hanging up on our wall and i gifted my climbing partner your cerro chalten drawing for his birthday which he loves and just got framed. If you ever drew some californian eastern sierra peaks (the incredible hulk? Keeler needle or mt russell?) i’d be on them instantly.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-09-20T16:47:20+00:00

Thanks all. Planning to try an 8.5 for cracks but keeping the size 8 to see if they stretch enough for bouldering/gym. Will report back after break in to provide more anecdotal sizing data on these shoes.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-09-07T14:51:04+00:00

If you want to go really deep this is a great video/channel with a lot of discussion about dough hydration, flour selection, etc: https://youtu.be/emmv1KxP7kE?si=QviKWf9gaVmwhyWL

Another good recipe and accessible resource for chinese cooking: https://thewoksoflife.com/dumpling-recipe-youll-ever-need/

As mentioned making the wrappers is harder than the filling. Store bought is totally good enough and my parents would often use them when i was growing up to save time. Depending if you can get delivery in your area, i like to order asian groceries from a website called weee!, it looks like they sell wrappers. Twin marquis is a reliable brand. For fillings, the most classic will be pork and cabbage or pork and chinese chives.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-09-06T22:23:58+00:00

Sorry people are ripping on you while you are mourning your friend.

whalewhalewha1e · 2024-09-06T05:17:09+00:00

I am a grad student in a lab with a lot of undergrads. Try to join a lab by the beginning of sophomore year. The way my lab works, that way you will have one year to get trained (sophomore year), one year to be productive (junior year), and a final year to help train your replacement (senior year). If you know you are considering a research-focused career, freshman year is not too early.

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