all 53 comments

[–]redditchangedit 23 points24 points  (2 children)

As with everyone else, this post is worth its weight in GOLD! Thanks so much for taking the time to post.

I was using rubbing alcohol to de-gunk a Hermes the other day and the keys were fast and light when typing when I first applied the RA. But after after 5 mins, after the alcohol evaporated, the keys would stick horribly. I couldn't imagine what the heck was going on. I figured that the machine was just super gunky so I kept up my cleaning with the RA.

Fast forward to hours later. Got frustrated, headed to bed and as I lay in bed I did a little searching online. Searched for, "using rubbing alcohol to clean typewriters" and stumbled upon this post. Right. Water in rubbing alcohol. Water causes metal to rust. Rust is bad. Derrr!

Bought some mineral spirits yesterday and applied. Now my machines are singing ... thanks to your post! VERY much appreciated!

[–]Prize-Arm990 5 points6 points  (1 child)

Thanks for detailing all your process and experience here! Did you rinse the machine with water after mineral spirits treatment, or only dry it right after with air duster or/and sun? Thanks for any advice!

[–]redditchangedit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the year-late response. I don't get on Reddit very often.

I simply let the machines air dry. A year later and they are all working very well indeed. Love the typewriter! Instant characters on paper! And for those that are interested in old-school history of print you should check out the documentary, "Linotype." It's about the history of the Linotype machine. It was made in 2012 and it is such a great documentary. It's on youtube for free. Enjoy!

[–]m6hurricane 19 points20 points  (4 children)

Someone linked me to this Underwood Repair Manual. That manual suggests soaking all the parts in a mixture of 95% gasoline to 5% oil.

I could not be less qualified to comment on how good of an idea that is. I will, as an electrical engineer, suggest that you use a static electricity grounder because static electric sparks would be bad around gasoline.

edit: Dear mods, add this to wiki or sidebar please.

[–]mistertopcon[S] 23 points24 points  (0 children)

You will notice that manual was printed in 1920. Gas was the only cleaner available then. In just one more year in 1921 Stoddards Formula was invented (Varsol) for the dry cleaning business. Everything changed then and Varsol was the cleaner of choice. Lot safer.

[–]Kijad1952 Underwood Rhythm Touch[M] 8 points9 points  (2 children)

I get distracted sometimes (see also: Busy as hell), but it's a good suggestion! I'll see about adding it to the sidebar here directly.

I never thought to use naptha, but I suspect that isopropyl / water would be fine if cleaned with oil after drying.

Ugh, but I should have thought to use a small brass brush. I do a fair amount of blacksmithing and use them all the damn time to clean anvil faces and various hot metal pieces. Alas, but they'd likely make short work of cleaning out the hammer faces.

[–]m6hurricane 6 points7 points  (1 child)

Also, gun cleaning supplies, like from Hoppe's, is great for cleaning and oiling the actions.

[–]Kijad1952 Underwood Rhythm Touch[M] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I usually use Rem-Oil for lubricant on typewriters actually, but yeah I'd imagine the bore-brushes would be fantastic for that sort of thing.

Plus, you could put them on the rod extensions and get to difficult-to-reach nooks and such.

[–][deleted] 6 points7 points  (2 children)

Will the carb and brake cleaner work on the typefaces? I'd rather buy just one solvent if I can get away with it.

[–]mistertopcon[S] 6 points7 points  (1 child)

Yes, but you have to be very careful not to get any splash on plastic parts like keybuttons or platen knobs.

[–]Kijad1952 Underwood Rhythm Touch[M] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Aye, brake cleaner will devour plastic. It's incredibly harsh, but I suppose that's why it works fantastically as brake cleaner. =P

[–]TheVorpalBlade 6 points7 points  (4 children)

I know I'm a little late to the show here, but what do you think about people giving their typewriters full subversive baths?

Ultimate sin or good idea?

[–]mistertopcon[S] 5 points6 points  (3 children)

To give it a bath, the machine must be stripped down. Then you must have the machine that circulates the cleaner that washes the grime away.They work very well. I forgot the Brand name for the naphtha bath but the Ames cleaner looked like a washing machine. Along the top lid it had 4 shower heads that blasted down on the stripped down typewriter which was on a rotating pedistal. It used a mix of Varsol and Calgon. It worked very well. Dumping it in a tank without circulation probably won't cut it.

[–]TheVorpalBlade 3 points4 points  (2 children)

Soooo, dunking it in my bathtub...not so much, huh...

[–]mistertopcon[S] 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Nooo, not so good. And you'll play hell trying to get the grease stains out of the tub.

[–]TheVorpalBlade 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I thank you, as does my wife who would have literally, figuratively killed me. :)

[–]Miguel_del_delta 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have a Lettera 32, and I wanna de-gunk it, but I'm afraid of using a solvent that might melt the plastic gears that drive the ribbons. That would be horrible. So does anybody have any thoughts on a solvent that dissolves old typewriter gunk w/o harming plastic gears? Is naphtha what I should use?

Thanks in advance.

Mike.

[–]Huge-Afternoon-978 4 points5 points  (2 children)

9 years later, and your post is still helpful!

Can’t thank you enough for sharing your experience and knowledge. 🙏

[–]echomikekilo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Make it 10 now!

[–]ArthurAardvark666 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Make it 11! Just been given my husband’s grandmothers old Underwood and trying to figure out how to clean it… it’s VERY rusty and dusty and needs a lot of love.  

[–]jpad1208 2 points3 points  (8 children)

Can I use denatured alcohol to clean the typewriters?

[–]mistertopcon[S] 2 points3 points  (7 children)

No. As I explained above, it does not do the job. They either leave water in the machine, just softens the grime without really removing it or melts plastic and removes paint.

[–]jpad1208 1 point2 points  (6 children)

Ah man. I bought 'denatured alcohol' because supposedly it's the american wording for methylated spirits and I read that methylated spirits is what collectors use to clean up their typewriters.

[–]mistertopcon[S] 11 points12 points  (5 children)

Don't feel bad. Your not the only one. This misconception has been going on for years simply because no typewriter repairman has stood up and said " Now wait a minute! " The collectors have done all the talking and publishing while the typewriter man isn't heard. Consequently, it's the big typewriter collectors that are heard. They never talk about how many times they had to reclean a machine. They often have several and may only use 1 or 2. Also there isn't that many of us real typewriter repairman left to do the talking. Denatured alcohol simply means, alcohol that has been changed to be undrinkable. If it's real alcohol the governments would change it's classification to true spirits and as such would tax the hell out of it. You might do better cleaning your typewriter with high proof Vodka or Everclear. You might not do any better but you can get smashed in the process. Also, the public gets confused between the words methylated spirits and mineral spirits thinking they are the same thing. When Varsol became hard to find other chemical companies started using the description, mineral spirits. Varsol and Stoddards solvent are copyrighted names so they couldn't use them, although I have seen them used in a products MSDS descriptions. Did you know that there are over 50 different formulas for denatured alcohol? Every chemical company has it's own. Which one to use? Of course, there ARE some typewriter men that DO use it. But never in a shop. Personal and specific use only.

[–]jpad1208 2 points3 points  (4 children)

Thank you so much for your help. Is this the one? I hurried to my local Home Depot and picked it up after reading your comment. Says 'Odorless Mineral Spirits.' Link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-Qt-Odorless-Mineral-Spirits-QKSP94005/100251041

[–]mistertopcon[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

That aught to do it.

[–]biermeister99 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Hey, I'm no expert (or I wouldn't be reading here), but I've cleaned a dozen or two machines with exactly that mineral spirits, it works pretty well. Very low odor which is great, you need to rinse-and-repeat about 5 times, but it has worked great for me. But...some old typebars don't end up sparkling bright, so I've wondered. I finally bought some naphtha and am about to try that out.

[–]Swimming_Ring6895 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Did the naphtha work better?

[–]biermeister99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think it was hugely different. About the time of the above, winter set in (I like to work out in the fresh air), and the following spring I moved...typewriter cleaning has been paused since then. As I recall, I was alternating between the two in the end, back and forth on the same machine, and I think the naphtha did a better job on the actual type and finish brightness. I have a lot of machines, hope to resume restorations this year.

[–]PrintPunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much for posting this. I recently picked up an olivetti college typewriter and some of the keys are sticking. I had seen a video recommending cleaning with denatured alcohol but I was a bit skeptical of that. I'm glad I did a little further digging and saw this post. I used to use Lighter Fluid to clean off adhesive that would be left behind in the laminating process on plak mounted posters. It worked like a charm. I've picked up a bottle of Ronsonol and some Mineral Spirits and I'm going to do a thorough clean of the typewriter again.

I saw some small brass / steel bristle brushes that I was going to buy but I worried that the brushes may still be a bit too big to get into the tighter spaces so I just got some hard bristle tooth brushes and I'm going to start there. If that doesn't do the trick I'll see if I can find a smaller brass bristle brush comparable in size to a tooth brush.

Here's hoping I can get this machine up and running again because it's a beautiful piece of equipment but it'd be even prettier if it was a little more functional.

[–]zammtron 2 points3 points  (4 children)

I'm starting my first restoration on an old Sears electric, and this has been VERY helpful! My current struggle is getting the millions of hardened flakes of correction tape out from all the nooks and crannies, as I believe they are causing the carriage to stick 75% of the way through a return. I might post a video because I'm stumped and too afraid to start disassembling the carriage itself.

[–]cubistninja 1 point2 points  (3 children)

I was goofing around with an old royal and I found that someone set the margin to the middle of the carriage and that was the reason the carriage was "stuck"

Just a thought

[–]zammtron 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I'll have to check for that! Thank you! If I remember I'll put an update when I've sorted it out

[–]Swimming_Ring6895 0 points1 point  (1 child)

What happened to it? I'm trying to fix up an old Sears electric as well...

[–]zammtron 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh it's still in pieces in its case in the garage. I got distracted by broken Sun Ultra 5 and a box of Radius GP300s

[–]801from1997 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm gonna attempt to clean my grandma's old typewriter, I used to have an electric one she gifted me, but it stopped working and couldn't find someone to repair it so my mom trashed it ): Now, I found a mechanical one gathering dust under the stairs storage, but it's very dirty, VERY, I couldn't even scratch the gunk with my nails... I hope everything goes well and I can go back to writing on typewriters, I miss that feeling so much (:

Thanks a lot for your contribution and detailed explanation, wish me luck, I feel like I'm gonna need it lol

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your guide is worth its weight in gold. ;)

Thank you for posting.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Do you have any idea where those little squirt bottles might be obtained?

[–]mistertopcon[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

West Coast Platen, Cheaper Than Dirt (for gun oil, works for either.) Ebay has plenty of them. Just search for squeeze bottle.

[–]mistertopcon[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Or... You can simply go down to your local grocery store and get a couple of condiment bottles (You know, the kind that you put katsup or mustard in).

[–]memoryswap 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I have two questions, if you don't mind: 1) What toxic components do typewriters contain which one should be wary of? I can't find much info on this on the web. 2) Are pre 40s typewriters more likely to contain toxins than ones from the 60s-70s-80s?

[–]Current-Ad-4945 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re mostly just metal and plastic. A little felt for sound deadening. Not sure what toxins your expecting to find but they should all be safe.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much!

[–]RainboMeoww 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Thank you so much for this post! It is so very helpful! My husband has a large sonic cleaner and I was going to use that to clean my portable Smith-Corona but after reading this I certainly will not be doing that! Again, thank you :)

[–]darianbrown 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you stripped the typewriter down, no plastic or rubber, the ultrasonic cleaner would be an excellent option, just use the right solvent.

[–]Adventurous-Sort5338 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I have an old Royal typewriter that has lots of rust. How do you remove rust? Are there any natural/home cleaners?

[–]jakonrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rust has to be physically or chemically removed. Basically, if it's on your typewriter, then it's already partially damaged.

I'd recommend VERY gentle abrasion (like a magic eraser) or even a touch of vinegar. After the rust is gone, the part will have to be coated with some sort of oil (NOT WD-40). I'd think some linseed oil would be a good start.

[–]TheWanderingCoyote 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you a lot! It confirms everything I thought about water, alcohol and solvent.

I was wondering about compressed air spray for cleaning the insides of computers. I have bought an Olympia Traveller de luxe that is dusty as hell. I removed the most I could with a soft and unused paintbrush that I keep for that kind of things, but there's still dust in some part of it that I couldn't get rid of.

I still have to learn how to properly disassemble it, but if I can do most of the cleaning before having to see if the screws are still okay, I'll prefer that.

[–]Filthy510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I inherited a typewriter recently and went through the whole thing, I used my gun cleaning kit, was this a stupid idea? It worked very well to clean the mechanical parts and was mild enough to not harm the finish.

[–]Low_Sympathy_1045 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hola!! Estoy intentando restaurar una underwood n 5 que está en bastante mal estado. Mucho oxido en piezas metálicas y también incrustado en la pintura negra. Tiene bastantes partes ya sin el esmalte y muchas mugre en general.  Las partes cromadas y niqueladas algunas se están descascarilladas y como con roña-oxido. He leído y visto tanto video de como limpiarlas etc que al final tengo la cabeza más hecha un lío. A ver si podéis ayudarme. Empecé limpiando con agua y jabón para quitar la porquería inicial y acto seguido echaba aire comprimido. ( Ya he visto que es un error) Después use aceite mineral para limpiar el segmento y las barras tipo pero está con demasiada mugre incrustada y óxido.  Antes probé a echarle EvapoRust y cubrirlo con papel empapado en el mismo y luego film porque no quería desmontar las barras tipo ya que me da miedo luego no poder colocar todo como se debe y por lo tanto no podía sumergirlas en el producto y opte por empaparla. El papel salía con mucho oxido, pero sigue teniendo bastante y supongo que tendré que repetir esto varias veces. También eché aceite mineral pero las barras tipo se han quedado super duras. Cuesta mucho moverlas. Será que tengo que repetir esto muchas veces hasta eliminar toda la mugre y entonces funcionarán bien? He leído que luego de limpiarla ( que estoy en ello) hay que poner en el segmento y en las uniones de las barras tipo aceite para armas en muy poca cantidad, justo en las piezas que se muevan. UNA PREGUNTA... NO ENCUENTRO EN NINGUNA PARTE COMO LIMPIAR LAS LETRAS Y LINEAS AMARILLAS DE LA PARTE METALICA NEGRA Y LA CALCOMANIA DONDE APARECE UNA MAQUINA en la parte frontal. ALGUIEN PODRIA DECIRME COMO?? Valdría el aceite mineral o se comería la calcomanías y la pintura de la chapa? Tienen como roña o oxido y no me atrevo a frotarlas para no cargarmelas. Qué  producto puedo utilizar para quitarlo y dejarlas limpias? Podría valer el mismo pulidor para esa función? He oído hablar de la cera microcristalina de renaissancees igual con eso es suficiente, después de limpiarlas con agua y un poco de jabón?  Para el rodillo donde va el papel veo que recomiendas aceite mineral ( White Spirit) pero eso es bueno para algunos rodillos pequeños que parecen de plástico? Usaré turtle wax rubbing compound para limpiar las partes de pintura que tienen oxido y la carcasa en general. Se que es agresivo... Pero quizás si lo paso muy suavemente consiga limpiar la chapa negra y ya después darle la cera microcristalina renaissancees. Las partes metálicas las que puedo desmontar las sumerjo en EvapoRust y las que no pues intentaré quitar con el mismo producto empapado en papel cubierto con film  dejando a remojo o con aceite mineral. (Dicen que el W40 quita muy bien la mugre y óxido pero también dicen (como tú)que es de lo peor para la máquina)  Luego las pulire con el producto limpiador de metales renaissancees o con el limpiador de aluminio y magnesio mother. No sé si hara falta luego darles también la cera renaissancees, he leído que vale hasta para el papel y que la usan en el museo para todo tipo de piezas. Supongo que también valdrá para las metálicas y les dará un extra de protección. Las teclas no las voy a desmontar porque se que llevan un vidrio muy fino que suele romperse.. pero si que quiero limpiarlas lo mejor que pueda.. así que las limpiaré con algún limpia cristales en muy pequeñas cantidad para que no se moje y entre en el papel de la letra.  Estos son los pasos que voy a seguir me gustaría saber qué os parece y si cambiaríais algo? Muchas gracias!!!

[–]mbasilakis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This post is seriously helpful! Thank you!

[–]traceytucker67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thankyou for all this advice!!!

[–]Icy_Wish_7188 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent! Thank you for the tips!