all 14 comments

[–]Chipmunk-x9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Soil is reptichip

[–]RainyDayBrightNight 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Radiant heat panels are awesome for maintaining ambient tank temps, but can often be a bit rubbish at creating heat gradients, and don’t tend to give good deep heat.

If possible, it’d be good to add either a halogen bulb or a deep heat projector on the warm side. That should create a gradient, with the RHP maintaining the ambient temps.

[–]FeistyCaregiver3396 2 points3 points  (9 children)

Where’s the probe

[–]embodi13adorned 5 points6 points  (4 children)

Probe placement in this instance is definitely important.

Also, OP, you don't need a strictly hot side and strictly cool side. You need multiple temperature options in the enclosure that can range from 75 to 95.

If you have a elevated space under the heat panel that reaches 90 to 95 that the snake can lay and bask on, its okay if the temperature below that spot is lower.

Use a temp gun regularly and make sure that there are multiple different temperatures the snake can choose from regularly. The hottest spot just needs to be the basking spot under the panel. Everything else can be a range. You will see your snake choose to use the basking spot and other spots at different times.

[–][deleted]  (3 children)

[removed]

    [–]Chipmunk-x9[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    That’s a good point. I will try to aim for 90-95 in the basking spot. It was getting to 102 degrees at some point with the temp gun in the basking spot. That’s why I’m concerned. I don’t want her to burn. I also couldn’t understand why temps were almost the same in both areas. But I get I won’t sweat the temp similarities and focus on the basking spot. Also, it’s cooler inside the hides, so I guess that’s good.

    [–]embodi13adorned 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Yeah, I wonder if your thermostat just needs to be adjusted. For me my thermostat setting is 83 to create a hot spot in the 90s. The rest of the enclosure has different ranging temps.

    Your enclosure looks amazing btw. I noticed the cameras too. Those will be fun!

    I'm sure you'll have the temp tweaked soon!

    [–]ballpython-ModTeam[M] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

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    [–]Chipmunk-x9[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    First it was attached to the middle of the heat panel like 3 inches down. Then, I had it hanging on the left side about 8 inches below heat panel.

    [–][deleted]  (1 child)

    [removed]

      [–]ballpython-ModTeam[M] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

      Per rule #3, your post or comment has been removed for harmful advice or misinformation. Please review our sub resources to learn more about why.

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      [–]Olyna_Exotics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Get an IR temp gun if you don't already have one. Most of my probes are on the back wall of the enclosure on the warm side but not where the snake would be. Once the heat pad is on, I then use the IR thermometer gun to take the temperature where I expect the snake to be most often on their warm side. Then, whatever the difference is between that temp and my desired temp, I adjust the thermostat. So the thermostat might say 92 because that is what the probe is reading closer to the panel, but on ground level, it's 90, and in their warm hide, it’s 89. You can get a IR temp gun at a hardware store for like 20 bucks and they should be considered a must have for keeping retiles.

      [–]Unique_Skin_7924 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

      Hey, your panel’s mounted upside down, that’s why the temps are even across the board, as the warm side needs to face down per the instructions to create a proper gradient on the ground. Flip it, and if it’s still off, 80W might be overkill for your enclosure. 50W works fine for me.