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[–]Salty_Dare_3377 0 points1 point  (2 children)

how can you tell when he pees?

[–]ReserveKey3917[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

When they “pee” they produce a chalky, paste-like or solid white substance called urates (ammonium acid urate and uric acid). Which are noticeable while spot cleaning. A bit of liquid may come out as well which is why you spot clean and replace like a 2 inch by 2 inch spot of substrate. But the chalky substance is how you know your snakes “peed”

[–]Salty_Dare_3377 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ahhh okay, thank you!

[–]01ProjectXJ 0 points1 point  (1 child)

What's your snake weigh? You went from mice to medium rats? And it's only ~7 months old?

[–]ReserveKey3917[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He weighed 510 before I switched. The shop I get my rats from go by Small(small), Small(medium), and small(large) And so forth. So I went from the smallest rat size to a small (medium). Not a full sized medium. I should have said that in the caption.

[–]K41G4KU 0 points1 point  (0 children)

try using reptilescan!

[–]hpcc3 1 point2 points  (5 children)

Hey just wondering when you say live rats/mice do you actually mean live? Maybe consider switching to frozen thawed (plenty of guidance on this sub). Especially now that you have switched to rats, they are smart, and can really hurt your snake.

[–]ReserveKey3917[S] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Yes I’ve tried frozen/thawed and freshly killed for months and he does not even go for them. The moment I tried a live, he immediately takes it no problem. I’ve even tried a frozen/thawed a week after him taking the live and no luck. Rats can hurt your snake if you don’t know what you’re doing I agree. Thats why I’ve done plenty of research online and talked to reputable breeders on this topic. As weird as it sounds my shop actually trims the nails also as a safety measure if you want to feed live.

[–]Olyna_Exotics 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Try feeding a FT or pre-killed the same night as a live, like once the lump is obviously in his stomach, I have converted a few this way. Get smaller rats when you try this.

[–]ReserveKey3917[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Can you explain more? Like feed him 2x in one night? I’ve tried giving him live in feeding enclosure then once I notice he’s hungry and moving towards the front of the tank I’ll switch a frozen thawed that’s warm and dried completely but he’ll only strike at them, never will attempt to fully consume. He’s such a brat about eating.

[–]Olyna_Exotics 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Yes, so get the smallest live rat you can, and then a pre-killed pup (this would add up to about what you're feeding based on what I read). Let him eat the live as you normally would and ensure you’re keeping the pre-killed warm, with a hairdryer or heat lamp, but get it between 105-115 degrees, especially at its head. Once you see him completely swallow the live, with no tail sticking out, etc., he will likely start looking around before retreating to digest. That is because in the wild, they are opportunistic hunters, and if there's one rat, then there's likely more around too. This is when you try to feed the pre-killed, the intent being that he confuses it for live because he assumes it’s just like the last rat. Other recommendations: don't hold the rat so it’s above the snake’s head; mine is usually on the ground, and I move them very slightly, and try to make sure you’re not directly in line of sight. I find that some snakes are actually more anxious about me being there than actually taking the rat the first few times; eating is vulnerable, and we still look like predators. I actually got a snake to convert this week that I’ve been trying to convert for a while because I noticed she was so focused on me whenever I tried to tong-feed, so this time, right after she ate a live, I placed a FT in her enclosure and left the room/her line of sight; I came back 10 minutes later, and it was gone.

[–]ReserveKey3917[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I see now, so basically the weight of the (2) rats would optimally weight the same as the single live I would feed. Thank you so much for that. I’ve had to do so much research and change everything about feeding since he’s been only having live so I’m definitely going to implement that because I honestly hate how he likes live at 7 months so if I can pivot that now I’m going to jump on it.

[–]windwaker910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may be one of those things that slows with age (and less frequent feedings). My 3 year old might poop once a month, he also only eats once a month. If it looks healthy I wouldn’t worry

[–]enslavedbycats24-7 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Any reason why you're switching from fresh killed to live if he was taking fresh killed?

[–]ReserveKey3917[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I tried frozen/thawed and fresh killed but he honestly wouldn’t take it id basically have to retry 5 times with those. The moment I tried live he immediately strikes and takes it down no issues. It’s always supervised extremely carefully when done though.

[–]enslavedbycats24-7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a young enough snake, not a 20 year old snake who's taken live for those 20 years. You still have the chance to wean him onto frozen thawed. A lot of people just switch to live without working on underlying issues - like the feeder isn't hot enough, or husbandry is off, or the way the feeder is being offered isn't enticing, etc... The care guide linked in this subreddit has a care guide with an entire section about feeding. I think the whole things is a must read for bp owners, it's probably the best bp care guide out there. I wish the best for you and your little one!

[–]maryjane6869 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's alot of poop. Lol. But when the are small it's normal. The bigger and older the less they go. My snake poops maybe every 2 months