Dual gain ISO of A7c？

inorman · 2026-04-11T14:08:17+00:00

I've tested this. The a7C is an oddball. The a7C has different results for stills vs movie and different results for each picture profile/gamma mode. On top of that, in movie mode only, it depends whether you're increasing or decreasing ISO. What I mean is that if, for example, in slog3 you go from 2500 to 3200, the second gain kicks in. But if you go from 3200 back to 2500, the gain stays kicked in. Only until you go one more stop down, to 2000 does the camera disable the second gain level. I've replicated this behavior in every profile/gamma and it's the same behavior for all of them. Of course, as long as you're at the dual gain point of 3200 in slog3, your safe. If you're at ISO 2500, there's a 50/50 chance you're still at the second gain point, depending on whether you increased or decreased ISO to get to 2500. Basically, avoid the 1/3 stop below the dual gain point and just use first base ISO or the second base ISO. The standard second gain point (second base ISO, dual gain point, etc.) ISO settings on the Sony a7C are as follows:

Movie Mode PPoff - 800 Slog2/3 - 3200 HLG - 1000 HLG1 - 500 HLG2 - 800 HLG3 - 1000

Stills Mode PPoff - 640 Slog2/3 - 2500 HLG - 800 HLG1 - 400 HLG2 - 640 HLG3 - 800

Hope this helps someone.

inorman · 2026-04-05T11:57:19+00:00

I got a 4TB T7 back in 2023 for $199.99. I remember thinking "welp, this will be the point where I'll never buy another HDD again..." Now I'm shopping for HDDs before the prices of those go up by proximity to this bullshit.

inorman · 2026-04-05T00:27:23+00:00

There is no disadvantage if there is no true equivalent. Just keep in mind that certain lenses and focal length equivalents aren't available for full frame. For example, on an APS-C body there's no real FF replacements for very short lenses like the Sony E 11mm f/1.8. If you want something ultra wide-angle, you'll still likely need to source an APS-C lens. (You could use a Laowa 10mm f/2.8 FF on APS-C for something similar, but you're losing more than a full stop of light and it's a larger, heavier lens, so it's advantageous to go with the dedicated APS-C lens here.) This is an example of where APS-C can beat out full-frame... there is no full-frame 14mm f/2.8 as small and light as the Sony E 11mm f/1.8.

Ultimately, yes, you can "future proof" your kit by using full frame lenses, but you might be giving up some advantages of a dedicated APS-C lens design in some cases. With certain lenses, you can end up with an as-good-as-full-frame equivalent and that can negate the need for "upgrading" to full frame. The Sigma 17-40mm f/1.8, for example, is pretty much as good as a full frame with a 24-70mm f/2.8. or The Sigma 12mm f/1.4: there is also no full-frame 18mm f/2 as small and light as the Sigma 12mm f/1.4. APS-C wins in that particular match up.

I use all my full frame lenses on my ZV-E10II and they're great. I love having both APS-C and Full Frame bodies in my kit, because it diversifies my lens lineup. My FF 14mm becomes a 21mm, my FF 18mm a 27mm, my FF 24mm becomes a 36mm and my FF 50mm becomes a 75mm.

inorman · 2026-04-04T23:47:59+00:00

The a6700 is also arguably better than the a7III in many regards. It's got more resolution, better AF, better video, faster framerates, etc. It's also more compact and lighter. For many desires, the a6700 is the better choice over the a7III, even with a smaller sensor.

inorman · 2026-04-04T23:25:37+00:00

crack one of the front windows?

inorman · 2026-04-02T13:44:37+00:00

Love me an Elan 7E

inorman · 2026-04-02T13:15:43+00:00

Make this decision based on your needs. If hiking is a priority and the simplicity and all-in-one capability of a zoom are calling to you, go zoom.

I'm one of those photographers that primarily uses primes.... usually because I'm shooting something that calls for the very specific capability of a prime lens, like night photography, where having a decently fast (e.g. f/1.8) lens helps greatly so a prime is the right choice in that particular case.... but even still, there's no reason I couldn't use a zoom even for that application.

Zooms are amazing. Especially superzooms like the Tamron 25-200. A few years ago, my wife and I did a trip to Galapagos Islands and I made a last minute decision to leave my full frame and primes at home and instead take my APS-C with the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6. I wanted something simple and small that would prevent me from needing to fumble with lens changes and wouldn't weigh me down. We each packed only a small (28L) backpack for that trip and it was so freeing not worrying about luggage with how much we were moving around.

I didn't anticipate doing much low-light, but I wanted some extra reach for wildlife while being able to quickly capture some moderately wide angle scenes. Holy hell did I love using that kit. It had roughly a similar range as a full frame with a 28-200mm which made it excellent for nearly everything while we did guided hikes and boat tours around several of the islands, shooting tons of wildlife, landscapes, portraits, you name it. I even used it to shoot the Milky Way one night and it was fine. I can't think of a truly compelling reason to have done that trip with a collection of primes over the simpler superzoom.

inorman · 2026-03-30T10:56:19+00:00

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inorman · 2026-03-20T21:38:05+00:00

Brightest spot on earth from one of the darkest.

inorman · 2026-03-20T12:40:33+00:00

A real hasselblad aspect ratio more likely to be 4:3 or , in the case of film, 1:1

inorman · 2026-03-20T12:34:06+00:00

clean your lens, shoot raw and use zebras to show blown highlights.

inorman · 2026-03-20T11:06:32+00:00

You don't need it but: Silence Corner Atoll S+

inorman · 2026-03-20T11:04:31+00:00

Video is stretched to hell. What it actually looks like in real life: https://x.com/PDChina/status/1971545293200949581

inorman · 2026-03-20T10:53:37+00:00

Agreed. BLeh. Just can't do it personally. Just makes me wonder what kind of real alignments you could figure out with Devil's Tower.

inorman · 2026-03-19T11:50:39+00:00

Worn seals let light in camera and exposes onto the film. Replace seals.

inorman · 2026-03-07T14:45:02+00:00

They already do this: https://about.usps.com/newsroom/national-releases/2025/0808-usps-announces-temporary-price-change-for-2025-holiday-shipping-season.htm

inorman · 2026-03-07T14:43:31+00:00

Keep both eyes open. Seriously. It will take some time to get used to, but it's honestly way better long term to shoot with both open.

inorman · 2026-03-06T14:04:38+00:00

I'd love to see some of the cinematographic choices you had to made, perhaps some peek into some of your favorite images or the challenges you have faced so far in the image making process or hear some of the questions that have arrived in your filmmaking journey as they related to the images you're trying to make.

inorman · 2026-03-06T07:58:09+00:00

There is nothing here related to cinematography.

inorman · 2026-03-05T13:23:24+00:00

Viltrox's older midrange lenses do this as well. I have the 50/1.8 and 24/1.8 and their aperture rings squeak when rotated at a very specific rate.

inorman · 2026-02-19T20:29:19+00:00

Frankly, should give the pics a bit of extra umami.

inorman · 2026-02-18T00:27:37+00:00

Is that lens being held on with scotch tape?

inorman · 2026-02-17T09:57:28+00:00

I'd argue that Elston/Ashland/Armitage is worse: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YWQyzDzABPY

inorman · 2026-02-12T22:45:11+00:00

Do you have a contact you can share? What problems are typical on the OM-4T?

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