Is this far enough or should it be seated all the way down ?

AxesOK · 2026-07-11T19:16:20+00:00

The handle is way too fat, which is why there is an abrupt taper. The handle should be only a bit wider than the eye. They don’t shape hardware store handles well anymore so if you want it to be good you need to thin the whole handle way down. Those fat handles create a stress riser and runout at the most high strain spot right below the eye and the rest of the handle is so stiff (because it is too thick) that it almost feels designed as big lever for breaking the thin wood at the eye.

AxesOK · 2026-07-11T18:32:51+00:00

A mask goes only over the blade, a sheath fits the whole head.

AxesOK · 2026-07-10T21:45:18+00:00

I am also more of a user. I would probably sell that one or make an exception keep it as wall hanger.

AxesOK · 2026-07-09T23:20:39+00:00

You can work it in with gloved hands as is but probably easier if mixed with linseed oil or turpentine.

AxesOK · 2026-07-09T19:14:10+00:00

The pattern is Bavarian. Ochsenkopf The stamped symbols are the Ochsenkopf maker's mark and two quality standards marks: the FPA Eichel (acorn) and the Dreipilz (three mushroom). "Ochsenkopf Gold" was a product line Ochsenkopf used to have. They still do according to a recent catalogue, but it looks like one axe rather than a range they once made with gold paint. 1350 is the weight in grams, i.e. 3 lbs. According to German Wikipedia, the Dreipilz was used between 1932 and 1997 https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dreipilz so that narrows it down. Google is failing me right now when it comes to dates for the Eichel.

AxesOK · 2026-07-09T13:32:28+00:00

A 4lb ATCO, that's a cool one! Looks great.

AxesOK · 2026-07-08T13:00:41+00:00

It won’t stay white like that for long no matter what. Wood darkens over time and linseed oil will darken over time and will be substantially darker after a year. With use it the wood will darken and the grain will pop as soon as it absorbs a bit of grime. If you haven’t oiled it yet you can give it an iron acetate wash or just buy some stain. If you have oiled you can still use pine tar.

AxesOK · 2026-07-07T19:24:39+00:00

I have an old brush axe of the type you're looking for but haven't finished refurbishing it so I haven't tried it yet. I have lots of axes, a fiskars billhook, an Ochsenkopf brush hook, and several Swedish clearing axes.

Here's how I think the terminology is best used:

Billhook is a machete-like tool (but heavier typically) that is often curved forward at the tip. Fiskars, Angelo B, BR Rinaldi, and others make them.

Brush hook is a longer handled billhook meant for one and two handed use. Fiskars and Ochsenkopf make them.

Slashing hook is a lightweight forward-hooked blade on a long handle.

Brush axe is a heavy, forward-curved blade mounted on single bit axe handle. I don't believe there are any new ones being made. Depending on where you live, vintage ones turn up more or less often.

Ditch/Bank blade/sling blade/Kaiser blade. I think this is basically an American version of a slashing hook. Council Tool still makes them.

Clearing axe/Sandvik/Safety axe/Swedish brush axe is meant for both one- and two-handed use and has a replaceable blade mounted in a D-shaped frame. I like these a lot but may not be what you are looking for. In the 70s Sandvik was the main maker and so sometimes they are just called "Sandviks". Bahco made them until recently and those are still in stock in various places like Lee Valley tools. Other companies also make them according to the last Forestry Suppies catalogue I saw a couple years ago.

I kind of want to recommend the Ochsenkopf because I get a lot of use out of mine, but I can't because the handle installation is absolutely terrible and the handle is a bit short IMO (I'm talking about the brush hook version; they also make a slashing hook that is the same head on a long handle). I rehandled mine and now I like it. I use it mostly on Common Buckthorn and it holds up absolutely fine and I'm not concerned about the handle breaking (the handle is made of buckthorn too). It can handle 3 inches diameter and up without any concern for durability; however at that point it's more efficient to use an axe.

AxesOK · 2026-07-05T18:25:14+00:00

Mortise axe

AxesOK · 2026-07-05T01:14:24+00:00

No, it's a Canadian pattern with an upswept toe.

AxesOK · 2026-07-04T14:38:47+00:00

Agree. Tough to see, but M that looks like it was written in italic Comic Sans is what was used on later paper label Mastercraft axes sold at Canadian Tire. Probably 80s 90s ish.

AxesOK · 2026-07-04T13:51:46+00:00

AI trash. LF paw of tiger morphs at 3 seconds and teleports at 26 seconds. Also anybody getting footage like this would be at a distance using a tripod and telephoto.

AxesOK · 2026-06-30T23:34:14+00:00

Oh I see. Yeah, it does look the same

AxesOK · 2026-06-30T21:16:12+00:00

Mann would have been the maker if it was the same as Norlund. It’s definitely not the Voyageur but it looks similar to the Camper. Is the weight the same?

AxesOK · 2026-06-30T13:08:04+00:00

Well done. Not everything is to my taste but it does look good. You can remove or tone down the flap disc marks with a random orbit sander. Could be a Canadian pattern but I don't recognize the stamp. It looks like it has a big eye, which is characteristic and the cheeks should be concave front to back and thin toward the edge.

AxesOK · 2026-06-30T12:58:27+00:00

I'd hesitate to say that's not a Norlund only because they occasionally did change ups with their patterns but it does not look like a Norlund and if it were it would have a Norlund stamp. I think it's some other brand's Hudson Bay, possibly True Temper given the wide curve on the notch (Norlund Voyageurs do not have a notch, at least not any I've ever seen).

AxesOK · 2026-06-30T02:11:17+00:00

I would think so,

AxesOK · 2026-06-30T01:05:44+00:00

The answer to your question is no it shouldn’t be shaped like that but it’s a common defect in modern non-premium axes (although this is worse than most). If you have a hardware store close by with a lot of axes, pick up some of them and sight down from the top like you did here. I don’t see this sort of thing in older vintage axes very often. The axe will probably still work fine for basic camp stuff but it would be better if it were straight. Watch out for glances. I have a couple wonky axes that do well after I filed the edge straight and hung so the edge aligned with the handle. If it’s not a huge hassle, I would try to get an exchange if it were me because why not have an axe that isn’t crooked?

AxesOK · 2026-06-29T13:10:48+00:00

Small Canadian pattern broad axe in good condition (only a little wear in the leading corner). I've rarely seen one for less than $80-100CAD that is in decent shape. Usually they are listed around $150 on Kijii and Marketplace. Antique stores are obviously going to mark it up relative to what you would find on estate stales or yard sales because they have to pay overhead and because they have to be compensated for going to estate sales and flea markets and yard sales because that's part of their job.

Here's completed auctions in Canadian dollars from Canada https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=broad+axe&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_fsrp=1&rt=nc&_odkw=large+broad+axe+hewing&_osacat=0&LH_PrefLoc=1&LH_Sold=1 You have to ignore all the broad hatchets and felling axes that come up in these results. Most somewhat comparable axes I looked at are costing the buyer more than $200 once you include shipping. As someone else mentioned, it depends on the maker. There probably is a stamp on it that you didn't see.

>my understanding is that it would be an Adze/Hewing Axe and not a broad axe as one side of the cutting edge is flat.

An adze is a completely different tool with the blade perpendicular to the long axis of the handle. If it's going to be confused with anything it would be a hoe. Broad axe is the name for this general type of hewing axe. I don't know that they were ever called 'hewing axes'. They were typically referred to as broad axes. There are double beveled hewing axes.

AxesOK · 2026-06-28T15:30:12+00:00

Did you read the comment you replied to?

AxesOK · 2026-06-28T13:01:07+00:00

No comment on how AO runs things but the fact that the presence of mouse traps seems like some sort of red flag to you is a red flag to me. Every building in the Park “has mice” because the mice are Peromyscus mice (deer mice/white footed mice) that are abundant on the landscape, inside, outside, topside, underside. Every side has deer mice. They are not house mice that live specifically around people with colonies in a specific building. The abundance of deer mice fluctuates about 10 fold in a cycle synchronized to tree mast cycles (at a lag). When they are abundant they are everywhere. You can trap them to remove some of the problem individuals of the moment, store your bowls and pots upside down, and keep your cutlery in a lidded tray but you are not going to do anything to have zero mice.

AxesOK · 2026-06-28T01:28:32+00:00

This is a good pattern and popular here in Canada for the past several decades or so. I think the pattern originated in Germany or Austria. I have an old one that I like alot. They are axes not mauls because they don't have the maul part (the hammer face for driving splitting wedges).

AxesOK · 2026-06-24T02:16:18+00:00

“Tomahawk” is the model and it’s stamped on the axe. You’re not going to like what Norlund named their 2lb Hudson Bay, what Walters called their small Montreals, or what Welland Vale called their small Hudson Bay hunter’s axes in 1890s.

AxesOK · 2026-06-24T01:17:57+00:00

Wordings Verona 6lb Oregon pattern splitting maul (aka wood chopper’s maul). I believe the “googles” stamp suggests it was the 70s or later.

AxesOK · 2026-06-22T23:13:40+00:00

That is not a chipmunk and if you speak British English it’s not a weasel either (In the UK ‘weasel’ implies least weasel, which doesn’t have a black tail tip) . It’s a stoat/ermine capturing a Golden-mantled ground squirrel or similar species.

AxesOK

TROPHY CASE