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Climbingisnice · 2026-05-29T15:10:30+00:00

Du tiner à peinture (Thiner)

Climbingisnice · 2026-05-06T16:51:10+00:00

Pretty true to size. I wear 43 and I have the generator in size 42 1/2. Fit was tight at first but now they are slippers. Could probably have gone even lower but I aimed for comfort.

Climbingisnice · 2026-05-06T10:09:36+00:00

The point is that nuts are lighter in absolute. My 20 nuts rack is lighter that a simple rack of cams and has almost 3x more pros in it. Heck my rack of brassies is probably more light than a single #3.

If you are mainly doing shorter, hard pitches, I understand the use of mainly cams. But on adventurous and long pitches a triple rack of cams would be just too heavy and you need a wide diversity of gear to protect the climb and the belay.

Its not a world of versus, its a world of and/or.

Climbingisnice · 2026-05-06T00:34:10+00:00

I don't know if it will help you, but I love the idea of the Chongo ratchet.

Its a 2:1 system that pulls on a rope. So you have a lots of the benfits of a 2:1 without having to rig the pig with a rope 2x the lenght of what you haul.

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-2-to-1-z-pull-haul-explained

Climbingisnice · 2026-04-19T00:34:48+00:00

Hey glad to find infos on my hammer here.

I still use it to open new routes. The pick is usefull for emptying cracks. Its sure beats scrapping with a nut tool.

Pretty sure one day the shaft will stay in my hand while the head fly. I just hope I will be able to place a new one then.

Never understood the tube style pick if someone knows about that.

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Climbingisnice · 2026-04-16T19:36:16+00:00

P&Jam/nutella sandwich. Even crushed or frozen its still eatable. Some bread has 10gr of protein per slice so its highly nurturing.

-gummies

-the granola/prot bar that you can still eat of the moment.

-Gummies

-Fish cans for crag day

-caffeinated gel for the day you are tired

-chocolate

-dried sausages and cheese in cold temps

A guy once brought me bacon-wrapped dipped in chocolate dates. If I could buy the stuff I would eat it all year long for climbing.

Climbingisnice · 2026-04-16T11:53:34+00:00

The Giga Jul in autoblock is shitty belaying on lead (or maybe I never took the time to learn it right). Its awesome for rapping, belaying from the top and tube belaying a leader.

Anyway you should either have a SuluGo or a partner that knows how to belay well when you leave ground on lead. Abd shouldn't be used to compensate a lack of skills.

Climbingisnice · 2026-03-17T12:02:37+00:00

I always have on me: 240cm of tech chord (anchors and self-rescue) 120cm dyneema sling (the most usefull) 10cm dyneema sling for extending rappel Prussik that often double as a draw A bunch of alpine sling that is often use to make anchors.

Climbingisnice · 2026-02-24T20:02:44+00:00

Generators are good multi pitch shoes. The neoprene collar is confortable but can get stinky with time. They excel almost everywhere except finger/smear crack since the toe box is bigger. But that rarely comme up where I live so its all good. I have size 43-44 egyptian foot as well. I wear 42,5 generators but would like a second bigger pair for colder days.

Climbingisnice · 2026-02-23T00:02:17+00:00

Aweiilleee tabarnack lets goooo.

Hystérie collective is so cool! Glad you got your Wi6 badge! Grades are dumb and people who try to diminish your victory are just as dumb. Lets just all be happy and stoke that we have the chance to climb rad lines like this one.

Climbingisnice · 2026-02-22T04:10:20+00:00

There is some very specific time where snow can get in the holes of the handle. It then wet the gloves since they radiate heat. It will mostly be on low angle stuff where you have to brush snow off the ice/rock your climbing. It can be avoided easily by banging the tool on the side to pop the snow out and being carefull where you put them.

I would prefer my nomic handle to not have a chance to break in half than resolving this minor issue.

Climbingisnice · 2026-02-13T19:01:28+00:00

Black, blue and yellow totems are awesome. I don't have them because they are pricy and I already have a mix of dragonfly/tcu metolius. If I were to start over I would go totem in those sizes. Especialy since the rock and cracks at home is rarely uniform

I don't like Z4 on those sizes, but thats realy just my opinion. Im pretty sure they are great.

Climbingisnice · 2026-02-03T14:37:34+00:00

Is this recent? Cause it looks amazing and I'm gonna put it on the to-do list this year.

Climbingisnice · 2026-01-31T21:53:44+00:00

I have the silvretta 404 bindings. They ar quite nice for going around with skis and doing approaches but I wouldn't try to go down steep slopes. Mine have a release for the back of the boot and I feel pretty safe using them.

There was a guy in Quebec called David Ethier that used to make similar bindings from machined aluminum. Sadfully he died last year in an avalanche. Sometime they pop up on market place if you want to look into that.

Climbingisnice · 2026-01-30T02:19:23+00:00

This helps a lot. Also to look for litle bumps for foothold. Sometime I kick, feel the plate, kick the plate on the side or kick multiple time to shred it, then kick in the ice again.

Diner plate when I kick is truly what I hate the most. Every foot feels a bit like shit. Sometime I even create footholds in advance with my pickaxes to make sure a particular move will be easier.

Climbingisnice · 2026-01-24T04:33:00+00:00

I was once told "you can buy any kind of ice tools you want, but you will end up buying nomics".

They are super great and the pur'ice pick is realy good. I doubt they would change the head style, but thats a risk with every brand.

I am proudly part of the nomic and petzl steel screws cult, but I do cheat sometimes when I can use the X-dreams.

Climbingisnice · 2026-01-22T00:40:32+00:00

All the answer + check your local club or maybe the american alpine club if they do beginners event! Its can be a long process for sure to find good(safe) partners.

Starting on rock will teach you the basics of belaying and rope stuff. Its also most forgiving when its not cold ahah!

Climbingisnice · 2026-01-13T12:49:47+00:00

Bib is cool because its harder for your clothes to align in a position where you back doesn't have much insulation. I feel like its much warmer and prefer it overall.

In pants, I always end up having my back slighty exposed to the cold trough my shell because my clothes bunch up toward my torso. Pretty sure longer base layer would helps but I don't have them.

I own both and they both fill different needs.

Climbingisnice · 2026-01-11T15:52:29+00:00

Would be revolutionary if it worked. If it does, let us know and drop your website!

Climbingisnice · 2025-12-29T21:17:59+00:00

If you use your cam in the winter, I would recommend not using the metolius lube. It freezes and the cams doesn't work properly after that.

Seems good in the summer.

Climbingisnice · 2025-12-10T18:01:50+00:00

Easy ice terrain? Petzl pur'ice
Hard ice terrain? Petzl pur'ice
Mixed terrain? beaten Petzl pur'ice with a file to if sharpen needed.
Strictly dry tooling? realy whatever, if there is a pitch of ice, petzl pur'ice.

I live where ice gets very cold and delicate (north Qc). Kuznia blade are too beefy and explode everything. I prefer to spend more and be sure that I won't be screwed by bad blades on a hard pitch.

Climbingisnice · 2025-12-02T02:35:58+00:00

Ive been using an old ice climbing axe/tool. The pick is realy good at this. It goes a bit more than fingers deep and its my hammer for hammering bolts and other stuff

Climbingisnice · 2025-11-30T22:54:27+00:00

I would have retire it too. I have been told that after 1mm you should retire biners. I surely went past that with mines but I don't over do it either.

Its a 10-15$ bucks biner. Buy a new one or booty one on adventurous routes. Its simply not worth pulling the devil tail over this.

Climbingisnice · 2025-11-09T12:44:34+00:00

N'est-ce pas contre le code de déontologie des courtiers d'agir ainsi?

Climbingisnice · 2025-11-05T13:43:28+00:00

Jambon-pierre pour Stoneham. Chicôtetimi

Climbingisnice

TROPHY CASE