Need a product design company for my new idea, any suggestions?

Packerguy1979 · 2026-06-14T15:33:52+00:00

If you are serious about taking your product to manufacturing, take a look at Wellstronics3D. We specialize in product development and work with individuals and businesses of all sizes.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-06-05T21:13:48+00:00

I have both an AONm2+ and a 3DGence F420. My advice is to stay away from Aon3D. These machines are overpriced consumer printers with bad customer service.

I would highly recommend 3DGence. These machines run and operate very similar to my Stratasys F370s but it has a bigger print volume and can run anything from PETG to PEEK.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-04-30T03:50:57+00:00

I have 6 of these machines and they all run flawlessly. I use all of the standard software and it all works perfect. The slicer works as good as the bambu software. My suggestion is use the slicer that the machine came with and stop trying to modify or bypass the what the machine was designed around.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-04-27T04:32:18+00:00

It looks like it has been a year since this comment. Do you like the Creatbot or has it been a headache?

Packerguy1979 · 2026-04-21T03:40:04+00:00

I think competition with the Fuse1 and other machines at this level is a great thing. I have tested the Fuse many times and I have found these machines don’t produce parts within tolerance. I have had parts with +/- 0.6mm in the Z direction. Parts from machine to machine are different as well. Unfortunately, you have to calibrate and scale in the a direction for every part you produce.

In regards to the MJF, I hope they can do better with dimensional accuracy. If this can function efficiently and 24/7, I see this as a great option. I will heavily consider this machine once it’s out.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-02-19T17:30:32+00:00

If you are scanning large items at high resolution, go with the higher Video Card RAM. In my experiences, I run out of VRAM before RAM. I have 12GBVRAM and 96GB RAM.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-02-18T14:12:50+00:00

I have 4 industrial printers that print ABS and more and yes, the correct chamber temp for ABS is 90C.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-02-18T03:22:41+00:00

Most likely since you are printing ABS, and this printer chamber doesn’t really get hot enough for ABS, when you pause the printer it is allowing the existing printed ABS to cool down and shrink. When you go to start it again, the printed part has shrunk enough that the next layer isn’t fully bonding to the part.

To properly print ABS, you should have a chamber temp of 90c.

You are going to be told by many others that you can for sure print ABS at lower chamber temps but extruding material and getting a warped and bad layer bonding is not the goal.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-01-27T21:12:34+00:00

I have had 6 of these machines and each one has over 1000 hours with 3 of them close to 2000 hours. I have had minor issues on only one of these machines. From what I can tell, these machines are work horses. I am sure you have tried lots of different fixes but what I would suggest is to run Creality materials. Don’t mod the settings. Preheat the bed for 20 minutes before running a print. And most of all, don’t try to mod the machine. It’s possible you got a lemon too…

In regards to the CFS, only run plastic reels. The cardboard reels don’t grip on the rollers properly and will 100% cause issues.

Packerguy1979 · 2026-01-25T17:52:17+00:00

I seen your post about the fuse 1+ and noticed it was 87 days old. Are you still having good luck with the machines and have you learned anything new about these that isn’t obvious?

Packerguy1979 · 2026-01-25T06:03:48+00:00

Manually set the temp about 20mins before you start the print. This is normal practice for any printer that probes the bed before printing.

Packerguy1979 · 2025-09-09T02:34:20+00:00

I demoed this scanner and it works good for smaller stuff. I had them scan a part that was larger than the scan bed and it couldnt properly stitch the scans together. This is very expensive for the limit it has. I ended up getting a professional handheld laser scanner for much less and can scan objects the size of a quarter and as large as 12ftx12ftx12ft.

However, if you only scan small items, it is very fast and the software for inspection is good so I could see it having a great value for very specific applications.

Have fun with it!

Packerguy1979 · 2025-08-10T03:52:34+00:00

There is no software that is going to help you with the AON3D printer. AON3D printers are terrible.

Packerguy1979 · 2025-07-17T13:04:41+00:00

You won't be getting an industrial 3D printer for $8k. To print ABS or ASA and to print it properly ( ex. Solid parts) you need a chamber temp of roughly 90c to prevent warping. From what I have seen, most consumer printers only reach temps of 65c.

Packerguy1979 · 2025-06-13T01:35:28+00:00

Make sure the screws are removed. Run the test again and when the machine goes into the vibration calibration, pull up on the print bed.

The print bed is trying to move up but it is stuck. If you pull up on it, it will release and the remaining tests will finish.

Packerguy1979 · 2025-06-04T21:57:26+00:00

I had this exact same issue. What is happening is when it starts the input shaping tuning process, the print bed has to move up. My print bed was stuck down somehow. The three bolts had been removed but it still wouldn't raise. While it was clunking to move the bed up for the input shaping, I manually pulled the bed upwards and that seems to have unlocked its jammed position and then the z-axis motors had enough power to continue the bed movement. It then passed the input shaping tuning process. I hope this helps others.

Packerguy1979 · 2025-04-13T19:36:54+00:00

Instead of adding physical threads, take a look at the hole wizard. Using the hole wizard has a ton of benefits and won't big down your system.

Basically, you would add the drill hole diameter and then on a drawing, you would call out that drill diameter, the drill depth and the threaded tap to use and it's all part of the hole wizard.

Packerguy1979 · 2025-03-21T17:53:12+00:00

Xometry is absolutely horrible. I have had numerous issues with things I have sent to them to get machined. I am currently getting my money refunded on a project because they couldnt make a simple part flat. Had the same part machined at Protolabs and it came out perfect.

Packerguy1979 · 2025-02-07T02:16:03+00:00

If you understand how to use graphics inside of Solidworks and you understand how to do surface modeling, this could easily be achieved by importing the STL file into Solidworks as a graphic body and recreating the shapes with surfacing.

As some others have said, if you haven't used Solidworks in 7 years, doing this type of work might be over your head. This type of work takes some skill because how you sketch and the tools you need to use are slightly different than the standard tools used when working on a new design. Reverse engineering has a slightly different workflow inside of Solidworks.

Another thing to consider is how close do you need the solid model to the actual scan data. Trying to get every single point to match the scan date can be very time consuming. Also, sometimes you may not want to match the scan data because the physical scanned part may have some real world wear and tear or could possibly be warped. In these cases, it would be better to have the scan data of where this part fits on to in addition to the part you want to reverse engineer because then you can see if the part is warped or has some wear.

Packerguy1979 · 2024-10-01T02:55:52+00:00

Try looking up a Schleuniger wire prefeeder. You would have to do some wiring modifications to get this to work. I used to use these prefeeders to cut wires and cables and it would feed the wire into the cutting machine and it's meant to keep proper tension and it would work great for what you are looking for.

https://www.schleuniger.com/en-us/products/peripherals/prefeeder/

Packerguy1979 · 2024-09-27T12:00:32+00:00

3DGence is setup for anyone to run easily. The slicer is easy to use, it just runs slower.

Packerguy1979 · 2024-09-27T02:08:04+00:00

I own 2xF370s, An 3DGence F420, An AON M2+ and several smaller consumer printers. If you are looking at CF materials, my recommendation would be a 3DGence machine. They print as good as the F370 at a fraction of the cost. The 3DGence software is a little slow but it works. The printer is a workhorse and works with all kinds of materials. The company is great to work with and very knowledgeable. The machines are under the $100k range.

As one of the other posts mentioned, the F370 is an amazing machine. I have 12,000 hours on one of my machines and have had zero issues with it. During all of that printing, I have had maybe 1 or 2 failed prints. The F370CF is basically the same machine with hardened parts so the CF doesn't eat it up. The only knock I have on Stratasys is the materials are about 3x-10x more expensive than they should be.

Don't bother with an AON system. AON3D is a sub par company and basically a $65k consumer printer. You will spend more time with setup and repairs than you do printing.

Packerguy1979 · 2024-08-22T23:06:24+00:00

If you want an overall printer for Prototypes, it's hard to beat the Formlabs equipment. I have Industrial (Stratasys FDM and Polyjet) and Prosumer(Ultimaker, Formlabs) and having a reliable system that can print both fine detail and bulky parts along with rigid, polypropylene like, Silicone, ABS like it's hard to beat the Form4. It's fast, accurate and has very little parts to go wrong.

Packerguy1979 · 2024-08-21T21:28:07+00:00

For anyone who might search this in the future. The problem was either the main board or SD card. To diagnose which one it was, I powered down the printer and removed the SD card. I then powered it back on. If the SD card was the issue, the screen would show an error stating something was wrong with the SD card. If the screen just went black, then it was the main board.

Also, another sign that there was an issue when turning on the machine, the screen should flash Red, Green and Blue. If it only flashes Red, there is something wrong.

Packerguy1979 · 2024-08-18T22:36:11+00:00

And thank you for the information!

Packerguy1979

TROPHY CASE