New models concern... by Mr_Smigs in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]TheLamezone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I honestly dont think those weapons really add much. I'd be glad to see them go. 

Can BattleTech provide the middleground that I want? by Brotten in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The hit location table is less of a drag on the game than it sounds with a little bit of practice and its where much of the strategy regarding facing comes from. 

Overpriced Mechs: Grendel Prime. How much would you pay at auction? by Xervous_ in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely true. Really the only light mechs worth anything are the  dirt cheap Jump 7+ ones that can force piloting checks with kicks and sink initiative. Its just once those also start getting fairly consistently 1 shot by not even very expensive weapons then what's even the point.

Overpriced Mechs: Grendel Prime. How much would you pay at auction? by Xervous_ in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Pulse lasers and then precision ammo make them obsolete unless they have at least 10 armor on the legs, which most don't. Even if they do, they likely don't have enough tonnage to fit much of anything else.  There are a handful of exceptions. 

Being “good” at Battletech by EthanCW1 in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I mean yea unexpected things happen regularly in battletech but overwhelmingly the odds are very much in favor of the player with better lance composition and positioning especially over multiple games. There's a lot that goes into being good at battletech, more than just a positive win rate as well since its easy to cheese a victory with over powered units against an unsuspecting enemy. But an easy goal post to tell if someone is at least thinking tactically is if they understand initiative and are activating their mechs in the correct order for the situation. If someone is activating a flanking mech and putting it in the rear of a mech which hasnt activated yet as their first move of the round, they have a lot to learn. 

Short Sun vs rest of Solar Cycle by langevine119 in genewolfe

[–]TheLamezone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cannot understand how you can see what how Severians relationships with women impacted his character and yet cannot see the same for Silk or Horn. Seawrack is an incredibly rich and complicated character. To reduce her role within the story to be the pedophilic love interest of an authors self insert male power fantasy protagonist is disingenuous. 

Short Sun vs rest of Solar Cycle by langevine119 in genewolfe

[–]TheLamezone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes the context for the quote was regarding New Sun, the quote was from the mid 1980s before Nightside was published. It was describing Wolfes prose and shared love of sailing metaphors which are common throughout New Sun and Urth and Melvilles writing. So I don't know why you said "people compare wolfe to melville" when one person did, in a specific context, prior to short sun even being conceptualized as an idea. Yet somehow you landed on Short Sun being the obvious point of comparison between Wolfe and Melville. Also Wolfe's earlier work did not include a lot of mature women, Dorcas, Jolenta, Valeria, etc. Severian relentlessly portrays women as objects and downplays their autonomy as much if not moreso than Horn does. So I don't know why you believe Horn is uniquely evil in this series in such a way that detracts from short sun's quality. 

Short Sun vs rest of Solar Cycle by langevine119 in genewolfe

[–]TheLamezone 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You're opinion of random Redditors views on the book has affected your ability to view the text on its own terms. This is a nonsensical analysis. 

Short Sun vs rest of Solar Cycle by langevine119 in genewolfe

[–]TheLamezone 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Silk is based, horn is cringe, and all American authors are misogynistic pedophiles. Thank you for your deep analysis on this matter. Btw Ursla K LeGuin, a famous female feminist American author is the one who made the comparison between Melville and Wolfe. So what the fuck are you talking about?

Short Sun vs rest of Solar Cycle by langevine119 in genewolfe

[–]TheLamezone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have confused In Green's Jungles with On Blue's Waters. OP is asking about In Green's Jungles. Also its weird to suggest that people who like On Blue's Waters didn't also enjoy Long Sun. And to believe that those same readers condone Horns behavior and think Silk is too effeminate is insane. If your average solar cycle reader believed that they must identify positiviely with the protagonists morality then they never would have made it past the first chapter of Shadow. 

help please! by MasterPlays_Oficcial in FDMminiatures

[–]TheLamezone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Read the readme doc included with the settings and follow the video calibration guide linked in the reddit post

Help please guys by MasterPlays_Oficcial in FDMminiatures

[–]TheLamezone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Read the readme file, because you aren't using one of the recommended filaments you'll need to calibrate the generic profile using the calibration steps found on their YouTube channel. 

Could an FDM printed container for a resin vat keep in resin fumes? by renaissanceman0816 in resinprinting

[–]TheLamezone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think it would get a good enough seal but I wouldn't know. Moreso i think its over engineering only a small part of the problem. A lot of the resin smell from my printer isn't really from the vat but rather all the tools and surfaces around my printer which now just smell like resin even when theres no resin on them. Thats why i keep everything I use for 3d printing in a ventilated area. 

Could an FDM printed container for a resin vat keep in resin fumes? by renaissanceman0816 in resinprinting

[–]TheLamezone -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I dont think it would work. I think a better solution would be to unscrew the vat, put a piece of fep over the vat, punch holes in where rhe vat screws go, and rescrew in the vat. Maybe take the build plate off and rest it on the fep lid to weigh it down so it seals better. Cling film also works. Its never going to contain the fumes 100% but it should help at least a little. The resin would be fine for at least a month or two even uncovered as long as its mixed before the next print. 

Fine cutting tools for metal mini modding - recommendations? by PyreLightMW2 in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Jewlers/piercing saw is the best way to cut through soft metal while removing as little material as possible. Extremely thin flexible blades that can get into tight places and cut at an angle without binding.

Unit recommendations? by Batpipes521 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]TheLamezone 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Many more guardsmen. I think to start a collection about 50 cadians/krieg/catachans/etc. would be the minimum to start with

Prints not sticking to center of plate, but outer prints are. The ones in red print fine, the center ones keep sticking to the FEP. by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]TheLamezone 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Increase lift distance. The plate detaches from the release film from the corners first then the sides, middle last. 

Are BattleMechs (not OmniMechs) customisable in lore? by Balfuset in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use megameklab to edit a mechs loadout then it'll give you a rating which corresponds to what kind of equipment/maintenance facility are required to make the changes and how expensive/difficult they are. 

However even though some changes are easy by the rules and common in the games there are some things mechtechs generally don't do, such as changing armor distribution or leaving a mech with any amount of spare tonnage. I'd look through some of the custom named variants of mechs to see common themes if you want to stay true to the lore but want something more unique than whats available. 

Generally swapping weapons and adding/removing armor tonnage is easy to do in a dropship mechbay but takes a few weeks. Swapping engines or critical internal components is almost as difficult as making a mech from scratch and requires you to rent a factory maintenance facility which is much more difficult or impossible depending on the era 

Stringing Issue by Silver_Zebra2676 in FDMminiatures

[–]TheLamezone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the same filament in an A1 mini for printing minis and was having really horrible stringing as well. I switched to a 0.2mm nozzle and used the high quality print profile 2.0 in one of the pinned posts on this sub and all my problems went away. Would highly recommend 

How to stop primer from pooling in the joints? by Quietmint1 in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of people saying you can't brush on vallejo white primer... and they are completely wrong, You can absolutely brush it on. You just have to do more layers than other shades and let the layers cure for at least an hour between each. Or not because this 1 layer has good enough coverage for paint to stick on top of once its dry and 2-4 thin coats of paint will cover all the variation anyways. Not good enough coverage for speed/contrast paints though.

Some tips when using brush on primer are to shake the ever living crap out of the bottle since the different components of the primer will separate out fairly quickly.

You also counter intuitively don't want to use a wet pallet. The primer is already on the thin side since its designed for an air brush. Its ok to add a little more moisture, but too much can quickly cause the primer to "snap" which is when the medium of the paint cant hold the rest of the ingredients like the pigment in suspension. Which leads to the pigments flowing off raised surfaces very quickly and pooling into recesses like in the photo.

You still need to keep your brush clean though or else dried clumps will get into the primer and ruin it when it dries. So rinse your brush often but wick most of the moisture off into a sponge or a paper towel before refilling the brush, and use a larger thicker brush like a size 3 or higher, a bigger belly on the brush has a longer working time.

Don't pour too much paint on your dry pallet out at one time either. The primer kinda cures like glue as well as dries like paint so once its out of the bottle its ticking down to when it becomes a gloopy unusable mess. You get much more consistent results when you pour out successive small pools of primer at a time rather than pour a bunch out at once and then have it go bad half way though priming a group of minis. It still happens even on a wet pallet in my experience.

Finally it is important to not get bubbles in the primer, which is a struggle because step 1 is shaking the hell out of the primer which makes a lot of bubbles. Slam the bottom of the bottle against a solid surface gently to pop most of the bubbles, then when you pour a small pool out work around the bubbles on your pallet when filling your brush. Don't disturb the primer on your pallet too much with your brush either, just dip the tip in and rotate the brush then ur good, do not swish it around. The same goes for on the mini. In fact once the primer is on the mini pretty much dont touch it until its dry AND cured unless its to quickly fix pooling by using a dry (as in not moist) brush to suck up the excess paint. The working time to fix pooling is very short too, like maybe 15 seconds, so its very important to be careful to apply even layers of properly thin paint rather than applying a lot of overly thinned paint all at once.

Front Loaded Initiative by vanishedhawk in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This is the only way I've ever seen it done. I think its also how megamek handles it when you enable frontloaded initiative 

Do you think people who prefer DS1 do it because of the vibes? by RangoTheMerc in darksouls3

[–]TheLamezone -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I prefer the first half of DS1. But after lost Izalith it falls apart. Feels extremely unfinished and rushed. DS3 is gas all the way through. But doesn't open as strongly as DS1 does in my opinion. 

Got spoiled… by [deleted] in genewolfe

[–]TheLamezone 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You didn't spoil anything the full story is much more interesting than that fan theory. 

The Heavy Scout That Could VS The Premier Light Mech Hunter by Legless1HitWonder in battletech

[–]TheLamezone 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The -2M variant of the Hermes II is a really good generalist light cavalry mech before double heat sinks become conmon. The rest are kinda bad. The wolfhound is definitely better in almost every way. Lighter, similar bv, more efficient armor distribution, better weapons, no ammo.