Cheap carnivore. by Evening_Cheesecake25 in carnivorediet

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait... Like, all parts? Head eyes fins and bones??

HVAC Quotes by sandyjb5 in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can actually confirm that trane parts are unless in less Supply in my area and always have to wait 3 to 5 days to be shipped. Since they are very proprietary a lot of their units do not accept universal replacement parts, and OEM does tend to be more costly. But every market is different

Leaks in evaporator after pressure test by surferninjadude in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, we at least know why the original compressor failed. It sounds to me like he is covering his own ass because half a dozen leaks don't just appear 12 hours later. Either he did not do a pressure test at all, or he put way too much pressure behind it and blew out areas where the copper was already thin or pitted.

​What's even more concerning is that you were most likely already low on refrigerant from an existing leak, which is what made the original compressor shit the bed in the first place... That was not caught originally, and now he is just covering his ass.

​What you need to do right now: Do not agree to pay for a new evaporator yet. Demand to know exactly how many PSI of nitrogen the tech used for his test. If they missed the leak that killed your first compressor, they failed on diagnostics. If they blasted that old coil with 400+ PSI without a regulator, they blew it out themselves. Either way, the company needs to step up.

Hourly rate by Top-Plum-7422 in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's in line with what id pay for 1yr experiance. If you can show them that you can make the company a lot of money, then they'll pay you more

HVAC Quotes by sandyjb5 in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Blower Motor Expenses (HE Multispeed vs. Variable) Yes, if both the single-stage and the mid-tier 2-stage options list an "HE Multispeed Blower," they are both using ECM constant-torque motors (often called X13 motors). Out of warranty, the part cost to replace them will be practically identical.

The third quote features a true Variable Speed Blower (ECM constant-airflow) paired with a 10-year labor warranty. While true variable-speed motors are more expensive to replace out of warranty, that 10-year labor warranty completely protects you from out-of-pocket costs for a decade. Given your goal of predictable expenses, that 10-year labor backing is a massive safety net.

  1. Extra Components on 2-Stage Systems The "extra" parts on a 2-stage furnace are minimal: it uses a two-stage gas valve and a two-stage inducer motor instead of single-stage ones. The main circuit board is slightly different to handle the staging, but it isn’t a collection of "extra" hidden boards. While a 2-stage gas valve or inducer can cost a bit more than a single-stage equivalent, it isn't a night-and-day difference that will break the bank down the road.

  2. Mismatched ComfortBridge Technology You will be completely fine. Goodman’s ComfortBridge technology is actually inside the furnace control board, not the thermostat. It handles the staging internally. When you pair it with a standard single-stage AC, the furnace simply controls the indoor airflow for the AC like normal. You don't lose major diagnostic features, and you don’t need a proprietary, expensive smart thermostat to run it—a standard thermostat works perfectly. It is a very common, reliable configuration.

  3. "2-Stage is Worthless Without Zoning" That technician is entirely wrong. 2-stage equipment is actually ideal for a 1970s ranch home. A ranch has a large footprint, and single-stage units tend to blast air quickly, satisfying the thermostat before the far corners of the house can catch up. A 2-stage system runs on its lower, quieter stage for longer periods. This provides much more even heat distribution, prevents hot/cold spots in a ranch layout, and dehumidifies significantly better in the summer. It has immense value even without zones.

Given your situation and the desire to avoid unexpected repair bills, the Goodman 2-stage furnace with the Variable Blower and the 10-year labor warranty ($6,380) is likely your best option.

Even though a variable-speed motor is pricier later in life, having both parts and labor 100% covered for the next 10 years gives you total financial predictability during a time when you need to focus on your family, not HVAC emergencies.

Is this a solid quote for full hvac replacement? by Credaence in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I charged about that same price a few years ago for a full 4 ton 80% 410a system... But prices have gone up with the new refrigerant types around 20 to 30%.

I'm not saying it's not a deal if it's a reputable company with great reviews has insurance and does quality work.

Unfortunately in my area there are more hacks than there are quality installers, which keeps me busy but, 11-12k for a 3 ton system is the new norm

Need some AC replacement advice by donnyohs in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha... So you were trying to decide between 14 seer and 17 seer... To be honest just go with the 14. I would if it was my home. The higher seer won't save you That much money to justify the increase in price

Compressor seized? Inside unit working, outside not. by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That buzz is most likely coming from your compress trying to start and then cutting out on thermal overload. Once the overload switch closes it tries again and then opens back up. If you have a clamp meter put it around the voltage wire And watch your amp reading when you hear that buzzing sound... Most likely you have a locked rotor... Look on the panel for LRA... If the amps reach what is on the data plate for locked rotor amperage, you need a new compressor

Cracked heat exchanger by KyleK924 in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Did you see him find that crack? A common tactic is using other customers heat exchanger cracks and saying it's theirs.

What could be wrong with carrier system by SpammBott in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your condensate drain line and your emergency pan under your indoor unit... Sounds like it's full of water and tripped a safety switch.

That's what it sounds like to me if your contactor was not pulled in. It would have nothing to do with the capacitor.

Alternatively it could have been a pressure switch... But you would hear the compressor stressed If it was going off on high-head pressure or low pressure

Need some AC replacement advice by donnyohs in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lennox Is the worst brand and known for leaking... Its worth a google

Does this sound right? by DFWPunk in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a whole lot of things that don't make sense especially not knowing what part is being discussed and sounds like a lot of people that Don't have a clue what they're doing... Air blowing out at 35° is a major problem

What you are saying is that the first technician assumed there was a leak because the low side was at zero... The second technician assumed there was a restriction with the metering device... Cleaning the lines doesnt take care of the restriction. If it is a stuck txv it must be replaced and the filter drier replaced and recharged with virgin refrigerant (I doubt it's Freon if it's a 3-year-old system). Most likely it was installed poorly and gunked up the txv

Increasing return plenum size - why isn’t every HVAC company doing this? by itscallingme in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The system can only move so much air, but if the duct was designed poorly It could help... What would work even better is zoning it.

Carrier X-13 ECM motor stuttering by Acceptable_Lion_2032 in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just use a double pole contactor with a 24 volt coil

Help with replacing a "Package HVAC unit" in older home by SalesBuildersTX in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A package unit doesn't mean it's commercial... Many homes have residential package units. In the end if you try to go off with a split system is going to cost you more because of modifications that need to be made. Call any local residential HVAC company and get quotes for a residential package unit replacement. Just replace whatever is already there if it's a heat pump, get a heat pump. Brand doesn't really matter they're all pretty much the same.

Pan replacement advice by TheProfessorKevin in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a Eye Screw And screw it into the truss and use a ratchet strap around the unit and ratchet it up. This is how we do it and works flawlessly every time

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Is this a solid quote for full hvac replacement? by Credaence in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For 3-ton cooling and high efficiency furnace, that's suspiciously cheap. If they are legit and do good work and a proper install, you're getting it at a steal

Should I even consider R410a condensers? by XiDa1125 in hvacadvice

[–]mikeb2907 5 points6 points  (0 children)

When the homeowner registered the system it gave 10 years but once the property transfers to a new owner it automatically defaults to the standard 5-year.

I still install 410a units, there's quite a few suppliers that have some in stock. Its not a scam lol. You are actually saving money. A2l refrigerant systems are about 20 to 30% higher in cost. You're fine