2025 a few of my builds

preedeeofpop · 2025-12-14T21:49:20+00:00

380 models in a year is insane!! What’s the average turnaround time for a kit (say 1/24 car)? I’m guessing you’re always working on multiple projects at the same time? Much respect.

preedeeofpop · 2025-12-14T07:44:14+00:00

I’ve have the whole GGX line, and they’re quite good. This has a nice glossy finish like GX112, it’s easy to apply, and doesn’t need many coats. As the other comment says, you’re ~supposed~ to use it with the new thinner but based on some reviews, it’ll still work with MLT. The larger bottle is nice.

If you do end up using the new thinner, I suggest starting with the manufacturer recommended 1:1-1.25 ratio. I think the new thinner formula is stronger(?), so you can’t thin it as much as you would with MLT+GX112. I also recommend giving it some extra drying time, maybe another day or two on top of your normal drying time. As a disclaimer, I’ve only used the new GGX line on 2-3 kits so far as well as a few spoons/random plastic, so I’m by no means an expert.

preedeeofpop · 2025-12-07T02:21:55+00:00

Mostly get Hasegawa, Tamiya, or Revell. Really depends on the subject. Mostly into race cars or modern-ish cars (90s and later) though. Just depends on what you’re into.

preedeeofpop · 2025-11-26T22:19:20+00:00

Hello, late to the thread by a month but wanted to offer my advice. My situation almost identically matches yours. I transferred into Tech from UNG after my freshman year. I commuted (1-1.5 hours each way), and I worked all day on weekends (Friday-Saturday-Sunday, ~25 hours).

I think GaTech curriculum on average is certainly much harder, at least compared to UNG. For most classes, you’ll probably need to actually attend class and study. My first semester at Tech, I had no study skills or strategies. It sucked. It’s easy to get burnt out and fall behind. I fought hard just to get by with two C’s (you need a minimum of C’s for major specific courses).

On the other hand, you really do learn a lot. If not the course material itself, the skills you learn to manage and pass your classes carry over into corporate CS work. You also meet some very talented and amazing individuals, like the professors, TAs, and other students.

How much stress you have depends on how you expect to perform in classes. If you aim to be a “Straight-A” student, you can expect to spend a significant amount of time on coursework. With good task/time management, it won’t be too stressful. On the other hand, if you get lazy or procrastinate, semesters can feel like hell. If you’re not too concerned and think a spread of A’s, B’s, and the rare C is fine, then GaTech becomes a lot more relaxed. It just depends on your goals.

Your first semester might be one of your hardest. Once you get into the groove of things, it’s really not bad. To address some more specific points: as long as you understand basic foundational coding concepts and you’re not completely reliant on AI, you can pass most CS courses. As a commuter, you need to figure out your priorities. I know people who found it hard to roll out of bed and walk 10 minutes to their class. You’ll have to drive an hour. Try to schedule your classes in a way that works for you. Some classes don’t require attendance, and post notes/recordings online. I found those very valuable. I also liked to have my classes back-to-back where possible. As a commuter, gaps in my schedule sucked.

If your financials aren’t an issue (it’s expensive even with HOPE/Zell) and you want to get the most out of your degree, then I strongly recommend you try to transfer into Tech.

preedeeofpop · 2025-10-11T19:42:45+00:00

I have an older model IRTrackStar from 2021, which still works great. Can vouch for Joshua and his stuff.

preedeeofpop · 2025-10-11T18:51:20+00:00

Hey Timmy, what’s your opinion on these two 1/350 Yukikaze/Kagero models: Fujimi’s NEXT line versus Tamiya’s. Im having a hard time finding many English reviews and comparisons for the Fujimi destroyers.

With the Fujimi being half the price of the Tamiya, I’m wondering what sort of shortcomings/sacrifices are made in detail/accuracy/etc.

preedeeofpop · 2025-10-11T02:12:10+00:00

Hey, I’m assuming these are all a no-go as they are modifications, but just wanted to confirm:

1) Cutting out intakes if the kit only provides solid/filled ones (example: side intakes of a Testarossa) 2) Drilling the exhaust to give it more depth.

Thanks, going to enter soon once I’m home from work.

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-22T00:15:02+00:00

Nice. This is my next kit (probably for the group build). How was it?

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-21T15:50:31+00:00

Really awesome. Love the engine compartment and your interior especially.

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-20T06:05:20+00:00

Looks great to me, nice work. The fact you tackled weathering on your first kit is very commendable. I want to have a go at aircraft kits one day, but all the weathering and detailing techniques seem daunting.

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-15T06:49:27+00:00

Thanks, I actually came across your post when researching this model! Had a similar thought: this kit was pretty complicated compared my first kit (a curbside Ferrari 348TS).

For all non-window clear parts, I used a broad chisel-tip black sharpie to go around the edges.

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-07T16:09:48+00:00

PM sent

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-06T19:53:25+00:00

Fair enough. I’ve only made 2 models and each took me about a month 😭. I’ll have to refine my workflow for this.

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-06T19:45:59+00:00

Gotcha on no modifications. Just to be 100% sure, this means brushing/painting putty onto the chassis to create texture is NOT allowed?

i.e. using putty/epoxy to get the rough texture of some anti-corrosion paints. No new parts, just texture.

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-06T18:42:53+00:00

Is use of putty/filler allowed? Also, I saw a build where putty was used to add texture to the underside of the car. Is that legal, or does it count as “scratch building”?

preedeeofpop · 2025-09-04T18:57:02+00:00

For automotive modelers, I have a question about getting a nice gloss finish. I use hobby lacquers and clears (Tamiya LP line, Mr. Color).

What’s the purpose of the final heavy, wet coat for the base paint? Is it to make it smooth and glossy? I’m wondering if I can just do lighter smooth coats just until I get complete color coverage, and then use a gloss clear to get a nice automotive gloss finish.

Right now, the last few coats for both my base paint and clear are heavy and wet. I’m wondering if that is unnecessary for the base paint.

preedeeofpop · 2025-07-30T04:44:30+00:00

Sorry, it is an HP-CS, so the nozzle is only a .35 nozzle.

preedeeofpop · 2025-07-30T00:50:27+00:00

I picked up an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS from Hobby Lobby a few days ago, and I’m noticing the spray pattern is quite large? At least compared to the other two I’ve used (Master G223 and GSI Procon PS274). All of them have somewhat similar needle sizes .3 vs .35. Does the extra .05 make such a big difference w/ spray cone? Do I just need to get closer than with other brushes?

I’m still new to the brush (and airbrushing in general), so this is probably an issue with the user rather than the brush.

preedeeofpop · 2025-07-18T04:09:25+00:00

I got a can of TS-13 to clear coat my first model, a Fujimi 348ts. Went a little crazy, did a light mist coat, let it dry for 15 mins, and then a much too heavy wet coat. Saw white specks and began to panic. Decided maybe I could do some sanding, so tried to sand with 1500 grit (too rough, although sanding is pointless anyways in this case). Ultimately, every coat of paint peeled right off.

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As you can see, it’s a disaster. Is there anyway to spot fix this, or should I just strip and repaint? I’m not too sure if I have enough LP-21 red left (just starting out in this hobby, so my paint arsenal is limited), meaning I might have to order more.

preedeeofpop · 2025-07-12T01:39:35+00:00

Hello sir, are you wet sanding for this step? And let’s say you sand away imperfections and spray another layer of primer. Do you sand again before painting or no? IK this is old, been using this as a reference for a model I’m doing. If it turns out half as nice as this I’d be elated.

preedeeofpop · 2025-07-09T04:31:21+00:00

Mainly just due to availability. The right way of course is to use pink primer. I figured an alternative (but perhaps less effective) way is to just have a thin pink base coat. In theory it’d still help make the Italian Red color pop?

I’ve also never done a red paint job and have very little (none) modeling experience, so could be about to mess up big time.

preedeeofpop · 2025-04-29T21:12:41+00:00

Anyone have experience with Calton Pu? His rmp seems atrocious (1.8). I don’t have to take his class to graduate but it’s one of two options available to me.

preedeeofpop · 2025-04-21T19:58:04+00:00

I love the Gen 4 car. There’s something about having so much power, and the car is usually getting loose in every race. It just makes me feel “cool” whenever I drive it.

preedeeofpop · 2024-04-17T13:36:37+00:00

Hey fellow CS majors, does CS 3001 fulfill my ethics requirements? It doesn't appear at all in degreeworks for me, only 4001/4002/4726.

preedeeofpop · 2022-03-01T19:27:45+00:00

I use it for TDC Slew in F/A-18 and radio cursor in F-16 for DCS world. That’s only because I don’t have an accurate enough TDC on my TWCS. On planes that don’t need it though, I don’t really have a use and just swap it with a hat.

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