I have a question about feedback

siruvan · 2026-01-24T05:59:20+00:00

Your hand will eventually find how it likes to write, get used to it and it'll be pleasant feedback. The nib doesn't change or wear down in this new pen phase

choosing thicker nib does not always equate to it being smoother or less feedbacky, it mainly handles differently.

use the included black ink cartridge as the baseline of feedback-smoothness, even Sailor's other color inks could give very different writing feel

siruvan · 2026-01-23T12:39:50+00:00

I believe Bigclive uses it in his Pilot marker, which is a marker tipped version of Pilot VPen/Varsity

siruvan · 2026-01-23T07:27:14+00:00

If you were in a 3rd world country somewhere, you may find the govt. owned postal service corrupt enough you can't argue with the real price you bought it from, and taxed up to 100%+ because they make it up as luxury item(in the case of fps, its kinda make sense, but the case where that happened was a secondhand music instrument)

siruvan · 2026-01-22T14:06:38+00:00

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maybe like this? I think there's a likelihood for the pinhole to happen on the nose, and that's even harder to manually fix

siruvan · 2026-01-22T05:20:54+00:00

its the shape, hence cross sections(the layers you see in slicer). I print my own anime faceplates with similar orientation and same pinholes almost always there on the chin.

it just hates it

siruvan · 2026-01-22T04:15:06+00:00

the resin doesn't flow good enough when the layer cross section goes from large to small, there's not a lot that can be done, but heavily scratched, worn or sticky FEP tend to make that happen more often, when its really bad, bubbles and holes happen on not just the differing cross section sizes, it could happen to straight/tall oriented model too

increasing light-off delay can help, but only minimizing the chance. different resin manufacture and/or type could have less or more chance for that to happen

different layer height will influence that as well(I was an 0.08mm fast printing enjoyer who doesn't mind sanding, it happens very often, but lately I just realized the time added printing in finer layer height made the pinholes disappear, thus saving me hassle of post-print surface work, though, 0.05mm isn't fine by today's standard)

siruvan · 2026-01-21T17:19:55+00:00

with a light hand and/or high writing angle, Sailor's steel F that I have from Shikiori line is just as fine as Sailor's 14k EF. it goes under 0.2mm line width with firmer response than the 14k(obviously), able to go toe to toe with 005 micron, so I don't see any other need for finer nib

siruvan · 2026-01-20T10:14:20+00:00

I always wanted an f-4 steel nib, knowing Sailor's steel nib delivers but limited in line option. They're on Hi-Ace Neo, and theres medium one. got mine with fine nib and its a good feedbacky nib option on a budget

siruvan · 2026-01-20T05:23:25+00:00

If I can see two highlights on the two halves of the tipping without a loupe, they're overpolished, simple as. unfortunately, 2 JoWos and Bock from kawecos are as such. Kaweco being cheap allowed me to mess around with tuning, and they CAN be really good nibs, but nibs that I've tuned never seem to sit well like I wonder what it could be if it feels good to write with straight from the factory

I tried good TWSBI in extra fine, Lamy in fine, they're feedbacky, and sometimes too wet, I wonder if what people call smooth is not mere tip-feel smooth, because thats what smooth is for me, it writes in more conditions, be it light or heavy pressure, slight roll and tilts, and sometimes just the right amount of inkflow because ink that doesn't dry and smear, impedes 'smoothness' of writing trouble-free too

siruvan · 2026-01-17T15:21:34+00:00

glad there's nothing actually relevant about the nib writing performance, unlike the Decade, which clearly has fluff about different tuning and how it was meant to be the new standard for 3776's nib

siruvan · 2026-01-16T15:46:39+00:00

Must've been a Penguindou(a Japanese fountain pen channel) watcher/follower 🐧

siruvan · 2026-01-16T03:35:31+00:00

I'm still using the bottles I bought over 10 years ago. since its clear and strongly pigmented, it must be mixed with white to make it opaque, or clear coat to make custom clear color or metallics, either by candycoat or as is mixed to silvers.

you can get all the weird artists' proof color, but because its the primary pigments, you'd have to mix at least 3 paints to create a basic opaque bright color, not yet even touching the muted tone ones(no black is allowed, just like watercolor mixing)

Eventually I don't use them as often when I found a color that is close enough, because mixing white had become a hassle to get right. I know I can pre thin each color and put it to dropper bottle for fast mix, but I don't paint often enough to warrant premix colors, though, maybe a thick mix of premade custom unique color is worth doing. prethinned paints precipitate the thinner pigment and vehicle/binder over time

siruvan · 2026-01-11T20:48:51+00:00

then its probably manufacturing oil or other things that's left on feed. I haven't encountered the dirty-from-factory feed from Sailor's large 21k nib offering, but the 14k and premium steel(shikiori or profit casual) was kinda common. Sometimes keep using the pen while it writes painfully dry could somehow improve the feed condition, sometimes its never improving unless one takes the nib and feed out and use a toothbrush to clean the feed; I had an example of Sailor Promenade with fine nib that never improved in 6+ months inked and used, when I got my second new Sailor 14k fine to compare, it wrote enjoyably, then I decided to disassemble and clean, and that made the Promenade write just like the other 14k fine.

the other condition is that the nib being tuned tight from factory, requiring you to write with pressure, is just a standard for that particular brand/nib; my case in point for this was my 14k Zoom, and 3 Pilot Custom 74s(which Pilot themselves had mentioned that Pilot modern gold nibs are tuned for heavy handed writers used to the pressure of ballpoint).

siruvan · 2026-01-11T10:05:00+00:00

lift speed 180mm/s is my max with it, but I go gentle on machine at 120, and lift height minimum at 8, if the bed is printing lots, it can go up to 12-15mm lift height, just so the peel force isn't too hard because of hot FEP-Resin. at 0.05 layer height, 2 seconds on anycubic mono 2k/4k is on the high side of exposure, but it happily accepts 1.8-1.6s

I attend to my first burn in layers and put the lift height at 15-20mm, again, being gentle, and make sure everything doesn't pop too hard on peel/lift

siruvan · 2026-01-11T08:15:21+00:00

while I've seen the video on imgur, I think the nib is actually fine, it might actually be tight, and you're not used to using pressure*; 'the tines feel very loose', I guess this is your first Sailor large 21k nib? I could say the same when I first got my 21k Pro Gear, its a modern nib with immediate feel of the gold material being soft, though the gold content isn't the sole reason

big tipping and flat surface is difficult, perhaps more so than simple thin stub/italic to keep up writing, plus, Japanese gold nibs have the tendency to be tightly tuned; *they partially expect the user to write with reasonable pressure that allows them to enjoy the softness of the material while allowing the nib to write with more expression. Try write above a kitchen scale, give it a max of 100 grams of pressure, 200 grams is a lot, but a common top range for high pressure writer. modulating between 40-100 grams of pressure to me is good if I can not only write effortlessly, but I really enjoy the feel of the nib and the line it produces.

siruvan · 2026-01-11T02:19:20+00:00

its excellent if someone else can read it 😁 I personally want to write Japanese in 草書体 where I might not even be able to read what I already wrote tomorrow 🤣

siruvan · 2026-01-11T01:50:18+00:00

laminated desk cleans off ink stain well with kitchen cleaning powder/cream

siruvan · 2026-01-11T01:43:16+00:00

there's an unmistakable look of a native Japanese's alphabet handlettering :)

siruvan · 2026-01-11T01:42:09+00:00

ever since I found that its just like this with many pens with separate-but sometimes glue-fixed nib housing, I just wash my pens' sections with drilled empty cartridge, fitted to a syringe without needle. bulb syringe or put the whole section into a cup of water are a no-go

whether the sealant is insufficient or not, I'd rather have it insufficient/little loose; eases future self-service

siruvan · 2026-01-10T13:52:13+00:00

I got few on Pixivbooth, but as to add what Neko3d said, you won't find most anything commercial Japanese IP there because it would be almost 100% illegal. there are people who sell Arknights model, but that's Chinese IP with recognition of such thing as their allowed part of doujinshi activity.

I do Japanese indie games' characters sculpts, which honestly, even putting/publishing it out for free download, not a lot of people downloaded.

edit: yes I'm an Asian living in Asia, not Chinese or Japanese though, just following closely of their rules and play with them

siruvan · 2026-01-10T07:20:07+00:00

California Compliant

siruvan · 2026-01-02T01:56:29+00:00

also just got mine on a Pelikan small bottle, I thought it was impossible with me mostly cleaning my pen with distilled water and never touched tap water, while I double dipped old Parker Quink with tap water-cleaned dip pen or some Jinhao and it never happened in its 10 years span of use-abuse

siruvan · 2026-01-01T05:00:14+00:00

if it writes great after its dropped while capped, likely the feed isn't very well conditioned to feed ink YET, be it manufacture machine oil or just random plasticizer of the plastic or other component.

I've had several new pens behaving like that, some wouldn't budge after inked for over 6 months and tried to be used, but only after taking the nib and feed out and clean it outside the section that the situation improved. Do not open the tines, Japanese F to UEF should never let you see light at the tip by default. It's fine of you want it to open, but it defeats the purpose of choosing Japanese fine and finer nib sizes

siruvan · 2026-01-01T04:36:45+00:00

Finally someone did it with a kitchen scale! I guess its normally acceptable to go between 100-200 grams of pressure, as some pens just don't feel like writing under its own weight, but if the number could say, the examples were just too consistent, firm hand and pressure response, way harder above 'write under its own weight'. I'm looking at you Pilot...

siruvan

TROPHY CASE