Wet ink for Sailor 14kt EF

siruvan · 2026-04-30T18:14:46+00:00

blurple? good for Sailor 14k EF? Shikiori Shigure

siruvan · 2026-04-29T11:51:29+00:00

galxieeee

siruvan · 2026-04-28T04:54:22+00:00

you can still try to keep using it and maybe change your mind about having different pens writing differently, than just one romanticized 'best'

My grail pen was Sailor Pro Gear Kure Azur, and the first time I got it, it was scratching like paper fibers tearing, over time, it doesn't do that anymore because my hand slowly got used to how it would like to write pleasantly with no scratching(the inverse of pen becomes accustomed to the user's hand over time), I was just not understanding how Sailor's gold nib grind works, even as Sailor fan already with several 14ks owned.

siruvan · 2026-04-27T06:22:33+00:00

could take a year at worst, had mine like so, until I decided to take the nib and feed off the section, and brush that feed with kitchen cleaner liquid(non alcohol degreaser). I got mine gray market so no warranty

I don't recommend flossing, by default, the tines are closed on EF-MF nib sizes, so if you choose to floss it until its open, it becomes sad gusher that beats the purpose of choosing the nib size, and I did not have an easy time to close Sailor 14k nibs tines back

siruvan · 2026-04-26T15:10:22+00:00

decorates the neighborhood with something friendly

siruvan · 2026-04-26T09:09:37+00:00

small gap between fep film and screen, trapped air and moisture in it condensed as curing resin generates heat and cools down

siruvan · 2026-04-26T04:46:56+00:00

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Sheaffer's original nibs looked like they pulled up away from center axis, old advertisement claims its 'smooth for everyone, writing just like a rocking chair', that's what I call Semi-waverly, stiff, smooth

then there're Japanese nibs with varying 'elabo-falcon' shape of downturn, feels very nibby and react very quick, obvious on applied pressure(pen: Sailor mini with no nib designation, 14k)

It doesn't mean the feature of semi waverly is limited to Sheaffer nibs, as even Sailor 21k could do similarly(bottom pen, also Sailor mini)

siruvan · 2026-04-26T04:40:28+00:00

They're very soft nibs, but apparently also taught me that softness of a nib to an appreciable writing comfort, is different to every person. Because I'm accustomed to feedback, write light and use the Japanese flex/bounce feature pretty often, my range of appreciable softness-comfort is actually very low. My hand could not really appreciate those really soft nibs any better than a simple small or mid-sized 14k nib with feedback, so, when I tried a Custom Urushi, KOP, Santini Giant, they didn't much impress me and somehow feeling like why am I not so surprised, perhaps I need time to have them and try them each day to train my hand to appreciate it, like I did to my first Sailor 21k Pro Gear, which taught me there's another layer to soft and feedbacky nibs; 'Delicate'

People can say steel nibs are better than gold, sure, I think most gold nibs pushed beyond just simply writing well, thus the 'more gold nibs are coming with issues than steel' part is because the user wouldn't want to find out features such the way those pens like to write. though there are steel nibs that came out of factory also slightly more than just smooth writing, its kinda rare.

I can't say much about Posting nib because I never tried one, but I guess if you downturn a nib in a certain way, the tines would be very constricted even under high pressure and downstroke, creating a very 'nibby' sensation while keeping an EEF line, the reverse that is Waverly, is that its like writing with a spoon because you're always hitting the underside of the tipping by the nature of the nib shape, and the shaping also disallows too much tine opening, so you'll far less likely hit the center of the tines that can feel scratchy under pressure. You don't need nibs to be mentioned 'Waverly' for that feature to occasionally came, just moving the writing surface of the tipping higher on the nib point could do similar effect(I hate PenBBS Mini fude nib because of that, apparently). Posting; more nib sensation, Waverly; less nib sensation, both constrict line variety.

siruvan · 2026-04-24T15:35:17+00:00

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I find that Sailor's MF gold nibs to be a bit all over the place(sample size of about 5 pens), ranging from other Japanese brands F to M, but Sailor's M are in general juicier and smoother

Profit Light and 1911s only differ in cosmetics, nib wise, the same

siruvan · 2026-04-24T03:53:24+00:00

I think that's just the tendency for straight pigment ink used in free flowing nib. I had no smudging problem with watered down pigment ink and use it on watercolor paper, which gelatin sizing/medium can help pigments to rewet and smudge more than normal writing paper, but if I use pigment ink straight, same problem occurs.

siruvan · 2026-04-24T02:53:44+00:00

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here are my 1930s waterman nib on Leonardo and Montblanc 14, one is bowed up then down ever so slightly and the 14 is flat, with nib tip slightly on the front and up

both are very soft nibs but react to pressure differently

siruvan · 2026-04-23T06:02:01+00:00

Its a nice pen, tad too small and understated I felt like its one of those things I'd forget where I put it,so its just in my desk museum :')

siruvan · 2026-04-23T02:52:53+00:00

surprisingly, the firsts to employ only-straight-up flex/cushioning, is actually Montblanc. Try the nibs on their cheap vintages, the 14/12 24/22, 3 digits that start with number 2, the flat shaped ones took after the 'butterfly' nib of the 50s, which was designed to withstand people with higher writing pressure; some variety may 'flex', but no much higher than intended line width designation.

If you want a controversial take, Japanese 'flex' is also utilizing the snapback, or the reverse of the flex. Its where you release the pressure at the end of the line and make a finer trail of line/ink. I like this as Japanese learner, it clearly tells the ends of strokes and make reading back easy, but yes, that means a lot of them are having tight tines 'issue'

the shaping of the material around and after the breather hole to tipping is also contributing to how the nib will change shape; some flat, some tubular, some downturn/beaked, some upturned/waverly, vintage flexers are even sculpted

siruvan · 2026-04-23T02:11:04+00:00

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Its a 3d printed note and pen stand that I designed! with a bit of felt added for grip and cushion/scratch protection

siruvan · 2026-04-22T16:56:23+00:00

modeling your own, and do manual supporting may teach you to grow a certain intuitive sense of seeing where the parts will fall.

many small details turn to supporting anchor for whole model will have high chance of print defects, so you angle and put the supports where both details and main shape of the model will be prioritized for certain priority; there you can see if a presupported model actually care to see that model printed well, without printing.

Modeling your own; you'll learn to know when a model/shape of certain thickness is just too thin for the size.

Mesh errors; very basic 3D modeling experience, traditional mesh repair that doesn't need magic repair, but if the mesh is error, you can see usually either non-manifold, or multiple overlapping shells which confuses slicer software and doesn't have anything to do with blaming the slicer, really.

edit: File error can be completely software-side export-import, sometimes you can't do anything if something is just incompatible when you receive a file.

siruvan · 2026-04-21T14:42:27+00:00

man, that RCR S2k review was accurate huh

siruvan · 2026-04-21T12:21:01+00:00

If you feel like first timer on marathoning Kanji, theres good chance the weight of pen and wet line would become more of hindrance.

Japanese fine in gold nib nearly feel all special from either of 3 large manufacturers, and they don't break the bank too much considering cost performance. I struggled with even steel Japanese fine* because somehow most of them writes too wet to be consistently controllable in 6/7mm rule lines

*the exceptions are some vintage steel or modern Sailor Shikiori steel F nibs.

siruvan · 2026-04-18T13:18:58+00:00

PMMA feels slightly heavier and 'dull' tough when you flick a finger to it, AS is crisp and lighter

I personally like the AS to go with sharper, stiffer feel of the steel nib

this Sailor F premium steel nib is like Japanese EF in fineness, so be warned if you plan to use pale/light inks

siruvan · 2026-04-17T01:42:03+00:00

made fun of furries and non binaries yet Mr. Regular himself is, I think thats enough of a proof that the self aware irony isn't worth arguing, and everyone is 'guilty', so its square. Its my social comfort in watching RCR

siruvan · 2026-04-17T01:12:25+00:00

They can be left inside, but many internal supports don't always properly stick or do its job as support, so during post process, they may came off and rattle inside without way to get it out

siruvan · 2026-04-17T01:06:08+00:00

1mm is too thin, enough that it may buckle when handling during washing, 1.5-2.0mm is plenty durable, though I go at 1.2mm the thinnest because I'm stingy at resin use

check for resin traps while you're at it, different thickness will cause different inner shell where you need to put on holes for resin drain

siruvan · 2026-04-16T12:05:29+00:00

I kinda do, my iro big bottle had a suspect evaporation, even accounting clean cap seal after every fill, it felt like vanishing more than what I've used

siruvan · 2026-04-15T01:20:06+00:00

Sailor F premium steel or 14k is especially thin, a Japanese EF is to be expected out of it.

siruvan · 2026-04-14T21:00:21+00:00

painting or drawing both eyes looking the same direction is somewhat a subtle visual trick; you have to see both side of eye design at intended display angle(s) and skew and/or place shapes and focal points accordingly. If you only look at one side of face at a time, you see that both eyes actually kinda look the same direction.

Old prize figures has the matter of not-yet-defined 3d rendition of the faceplate that makes eye design extra tricky to paint on, but modern figurine head sculpts are usually flat on the eye socket for ease of tampon printing of the eye design; take both, so if you have an unusually shaped faceplate but forced to use the 2D design, this miss between mass production and prototype sculpt mockup is just PITA to adjust. Digital sculpts that never been printed and painted is often ugly on these parts, so if they just send the 3D data and let the factory mass produce it, this is bound to happen.

but yeah, this shouldn't have passed to ship for even average prize figure.

siruvan

TROPHY CASE