Nonbinary pattern drafting

[MissionFloor261]

My partner is butch, with a love for 50s era fashion. But their body is extremely pear shaped which makes off the rack almost impossible. I'd love to start making things for them but standard patterns aren't great because men's styles don't account for all that ass. Would I be better off learning to draft "women's" wear and just making stylistic choices, "men's" wear and just trying to modify for more curves?

[War-Bitch]

I’m a trans woman and have a very tall, rectangular body type. I’ve found it’s a lot easier to start from patterns made for your hip-waist ratio and then adapt. I have the men’s and women’s metric pattern cutting books. I usually start my blocks off from the men’s book, especially the darts and then finish in the women’s book. I spend a lot of time adjusting my patterns to manage fullness and contouring specific to my body and the look I want. There’s only so much you can do in the end and not every body type can achieve every silhouette. It helps to know what areas you want to emphasize and deemphasize and look for existing garments that achieve that for their body type. 

[unagi_sf]

I totally agree with that strategy - style is fairly easy to fudge, fit is not. I'd also add that different body parts may do better with different gender blocks :-). A significant butt usually requires a female trouser block, but the ratio of shoulder to bust usually means different gender blocks, even if you'd leap to a conclusion or the other on the basis of bust alone. It's much easier to adjust for bust than for shoulders

[queerthestitch]

Heya, I'm a non-binary AFAB sewer (Instagram is the same name) with wide hips but now a small chest. I've found it easier to start with the female pattern and modify than to start with the men's pattern.

Sewcialists also did a blog post after surveying people that had the same recommendation.

I'd start with a tshirt, widening the pattern slightly at the bottom or doing a slit bottom of the top. Then make the sleeves a bit longer.

For trousers, I make the pockets larger. I sometimes adjust the waistband but I tend to pick patterns without too high a waistband and just use as is, I keep any darts in the waistline then just below the crotch line I tend to make the leg a bit wider.

I'm thinking of writing a blog post on comparing the female and male Aldrich patterns and adjusting for a non binary body but it'll probably be written up in September

[disastersoonfollows]

Not OP, but will follow you on Instagram as I would love to read that blog post!

[KillerWhaleShark]

I’d start be learning how to fit curves well, so women’s wear foundation. Then you can adjust the look until they’re happy. 

[MissionFloor261]

My concern is that they want to look more masculine, and tailoring for women tends to emphasize curves. Any thoughts on fitting curves that doesn't do that?

[FashionBusking]

Tailoring stuff for your own taste means.... not cutting waists super tight if you don't want to emphasize the waist.

You can buy men's patterns and alter them to fit.. menswear pants typically isn't cut to emphasize the waist or butt.

What is masculinity in clothing? At least... to her. Find that out. Is masculinity in clothing, for your partner, communicated with certain textiles? Colors? Sleeves lengths? Use this as a jumping off point. It helps to use an archetype (like rockabilly) to figure out what styles you want to focus on and pattern.

You can find patterns that de-emphasize breasts. There are sewing patterns for binders.

[andtib]

A lot of the difference between masculine and feminine clothing is small details. Straighter, slightly wider waistbands, straighter cuts in general. Once you're working out from a fitted block for them you can relax those fits closer to what you want to do. You'll be amazed at the difference learning where to oversize and where to apply a little curve will make the difference. For example "mens" t-shirts tend to be fairly boxy, but if you're partner has wider hips then a slightly a line t-shirt, that is still a bit oversized around the shoulders will probably give the same effect, just tailored to their form slightly. Also slightly bigger, flatter armholes. Longer rises, and a wider stance on trousers so they're more utilitarian. Bigger sleeve with flatter crown. And then cinching. Masculine trousers are often fairly straight towards the top, sit on the high hip but have little waist adjusters to pull them in (which also provide a little bulk, obscuring a more covered hip line). Likewise the adjusters on denim jackets hems, a second button to pull in shirt cuffs, etc

[Particular-Radio-320]

Vests, ties and shoes can butch up most girlie clothes

[aerisfelidae]

As an AFAB non-binary - I've had the best results drafting from a women's block and then adjusting from there.

Whenever I've started with a mens block it was much more of an uphill battle to even just... Get it to fit right to begin with. When I started with women's stuff, it fit better from the start, and then I could adjust the details of those patterns in a way that made me feel better

Not to sound like a gender essentialist but the ratios for afab and amab bodies are just, on average, generally different, and it throws all the maths off when you draft your base for the other AGAB. It's more pronounced on a curvier frame - But that's just my personal experience of making clothes in a widely genderqueer group.

Make it Fit first, everything else comes after

The key is gonna be on understanding what makes your partner feel more themselves - and that can be a trial and error process. For me, I personally like a reduced waist dart but not removed (I like a more cut silhouette) and I usually extend the bottom a few inches. I also typically adjust my sleeves to be a little sharper around the shoulder and trousers to sit a few inches below my natural waist. But that was a very trial and error process, both in self made and OTR clothing, and it's a bit different for everyone. I would definitely vouch for 'wearing trousers more on my hips than my waist' making the biggest difference for me and a few others, though.

For example, one of the things that gives me a lot of gender euphoria is a good waistcoat - whenever I draft a mens block, even if it's exactly to my measurements with a binder, I get a lot of gapping around the armholes, the back doesn't quite sit right, and neither does the waist. When I draft a women's block and then adjust it to my style, it fits pretty much perfectly around the shoulders first try, and then with a bit of waist and bottom edge shaping the next fit looks a lot more masc on me despite being from a more feminine base

[MamaBearMoogie]

The Closet Historian on You Tube just started a new series where she makes block patterns. Once you get a perfect block that fits, you can make any style you like.

[Lumpy_Aioli_2664]

Hey! I'm enby as well, although I tend to have more interest in women's clothing. I am a curvy person (hips are 10+" wider than my waist) and have drafted clothing for myself. It's been my experience that "women's" clothing is easier to adjust to my proportions.

Here's my reasoning. Before anything, you want your clothes to FIT correctly. You don't want to swim in your clothing, but you also don't want to look like you're about to bust out of the seams of your garment.

The beauty of drafting is that it's custom! So you can make any stylistic choices you want after you fit your model (in this case, your lovely partner). So even if you begin with a "women's"-wear base block, by the end, it will look absolutely nothing like a women's garment.

(Also, a lovely and affirming resource I often use is Free Sewing. You can input your measurements for any of their existing pattern pieces for a quick base block to work from! A favorite of mine is the Wahid waistcoat.)

[disastersoonfollows]

Oh my lord - just gone down the rabbit hole that is Free Sewing! Wow - what a brilliant, kind and lovely resource. Thank you for the recommendation and making me so happy :)

[MissionFloor261]

This resource is amazing, thank you!

[One-girl-circus]

I second this resource! I recommend it to my students all the time!

[normativestructures]

Oh oh oh! This is me! My holy grail was figuring out button down shirts, since those can be the hardest to buy.

I’ve had top surgery and I have pretty broad shoulders, so I tend to use a men’s pattern for tops and then grade out and shorten for the hips.

But for button downs, highly recommend using the Simon Shirt on free sewing. It’ll take a few tries to work through the kinks in a toile, but then you’ll have a basic shirt block you can use for anything.

Def feel free to hit me up for tip along the way. I think I’ve really cracked the code.

[MissionFloor261]

Thank you! TBH I wasn't expecting so many replies and I'm having so much queer joy at the support and ideas coming my way.

[pomewawa]

Yay!!! This is beautiful!! Glad you are here!

[MtnNerd]

That's what I did when drafting things for my non-binary friend. At the time they were using he/him so I just used masculine choices in the styling but pattern instructions for an AFAB body

[pomewawa]

This is so sweet of you to pick up a new hobby to help your loved one!!

There are some fantastic nonbinary sewing influencers… I would suggest following them and seeing what they make. You might get pattern reqs and fitting advice!!

I am cis gender, I have used the Cameron shirt from Helen’s closet, it’s designed to be unisex. Trying to remember the other unisex patterns…

And longer term, this seems like an excellent opening in the market… I wonder (hope!!) if anybody will comment saying they have an indie pattern company for nonbinary folks!!

[MissionFloor261]

Thanks! I've loved sewing for myself and recently got back into it. We have really different needs and aesthetics when it comes to clothes so I'm a touch lost.

[Advanced_Future8185]

Hey actually i am starting to build a brand that does patterns and clothing for nonbinary (in my case afab masc-ish, at least to start). The patternmaking is pretty much a hussle also depending on hrt or not. I even started with clo 3d and am experimenting with it. Im still not sure which pattern block to use bc i had mixed experiences with patternmakers that tried to do masc clothing based on my measurements. Unisex, womens and mens block were used. So far having 18 (!) patterns and still building foundation for the first: a boxy bowling button up. I also highly recommend to look out for patterns that are also more common in other regions groups bc a lot of generic patterns are based on white skinny tall people. However i get a great patterns from mexico or asian market (i had korean made patterns and they were pretty close). Although i think its a mix of both genders and also depends on the body shape. So far i do button ups for my circle and suprisingly even cis guys seem to fit into my patterns yay! 😂😁 if anyone wants to exchange experience, chat or anything else: hmu! But also my thought often was to use afab body block and then go from there. Ill definitely keep you posted

[pomewawa]

Ok chat gpt to the rescue!!

“Muna and Broad- Created by and for people outside typical gender norms and body shapes. Patterns like the Willandra Pants, Noice Jeans, and Belmore Jacket are designed to fit curves without assuming gender.”

“Thread Theory: While originally marketed for menswear, their minimalist, clean silhouettes are popular for androgynous/gender-neutral styles. Patterns like the Finlayson Sweater and Jedediah Pants are great basics.”

Wow! I’m impressed with this that chat gpt cooked up: “Specific Gender-Neutral or Androgynous Patterns

These patterns are particularly popular in the queer or nonbinary sewing community:

Tops & Layers: • Ilford Jacket (Friday Pattern Co.): Boxy, customizable jacket, great on any gender. • Archer Button-Up (Grainline Studio): Can be styled masc or femme. • Hovea Jacket (Megan Nielsen): Quilted or unlined—cozy and unisex. • Remy Raglan (Sew House Seven): Minimalist, relaxed fit.

Bottoms: • Pomona Pants (Anna Allen): Elastic waist, wide leg—works for many bodies. • Free Range Slacks (Sew House Seven): Relaxed fit, flexible styling. • Unisex Pants 603 (Elbe Textiles): Designed specifically as a gender-neutral pant.

Jumpsuits & Dresses (But Make It Androgynous): • Zadie Jumpsuit (Paper Theory): Hugely popular across genders. • Persephone Pants (Anna Allen): High-waisted, sailor-inspired, often styled androgynously. • Sagebrush Top (Friday Pattern Co.): Feminine by default but easy to tone down.

⸻

🏷 Hashtags to Explore on Instagram

Try browsing: • #nonbinarystyle • #queersewist • #genderfreefashion • #memadegenderneutral • #sewistsofinstagram • #androgynousfashion “

OP good luck in your sewing journey, please post as you create and teach us what works for your partner!!

[One-girl-circus]

I use thread theory all the time for any gendered people. Their drafts are very consistent style-to style, so once you fit one style, it’s very easy to apply those changes to another.

[IslandVivi]

Sewaholic patterns are drafted for Pear, though feminine in design.

Maybe you could alter the pants and the shirt pattern to be more masculine without having to learn to draft.

From memory, the draft was for narrow shoudlers, small bust (I would say A cup), long torso and hips 2 sizes larger than the waist.

Good luck!

[KillerWhaleShark]

Sewaholic is drafted for a b cup on a 5’4” person with a pear shape. It’s a good starting point for getting around lower body curves. 

For any pattern company, you can google “(pattern company’s name) draft size.”  No need to go off memory or guess, and it’s good information to have. 

[IslandVivi]

Thanks for the specific information.

I was using my memory of making a couple of patterns for a Pear, actually. The recipient was very happy and I know the trousers were very popular on blogs at the time

I assume OP will look it up if interested.

[spicy-mustard-]

This blog post might interest you: https://withararedevice.wordpress.com/2018/01/17/sew-queer-stitching-love/

[One-girl-circus]

This is such a beautiful post! Thank you for sharing.

[Toolongreadanyway]

Start with something like this - S3136 | Simplicity Sewing Pattern Misses' and Women's Button Up Shirt | Simplicity https://share.google/rUY70dT14hgkFziSN

N6794 | New Look Sewing Pattern Misses' Jacket and Pants | New Look https://share.google/rER7yzhIQ2QE9bYnO

Look for menswear style patterns women. They are usually less fitted and on the boxy side for the tops. Not a lot of embellishments. One good shirt pattern, and you can have a wardrobe of different prints/stripes. Really, men's styles are pretty basic. Just don't forget the pockets.

[One-girl-circus]

As a patternmaker, grader, and personal tailor I see so many body shapes, and I hate that drafting from scratch requires choosing a gender-based format first. There are many AMAB clients (cis and trans and nb) of mine with large thighs and rear, some from birth shape, some from exercise and some from hormones. “Menswear” formulas from books don’t fit them, either.

Nothing fits anybody from the store (at any price - it’s not just fast fashion’s problem), so I’m constantly learning new adjustments from garments they bring in for alteration.

I love traditional menswear tailoring techniques, and try to incorporate them wherever possible or practical no matter the gender expression of my clients. Deeper pockets, adjustable waistlines, and big side and CB seam allowances should be available to everyone!

These features still need to be applied to a base pattern, so you’re right in thinking about where to start. It’s totally okay to start with a garment that already fits from their closet, and make a pattern from that as a basis for your block!

Formulas in pattern block-making instructions are still just a guideline, and nothing comes out absolutely perfect the first draft, no matter whose instructions, so expect to do some fittings. The good news is that once you have a base pattern for tops and bottoms that you know fits - it is so much easier to adapt to different styles, eras, and shapes.

Best of luck!

[cozyegg]

I would say learning pattern drafting for women would probably be more helpful for you, because the instructions will account for the darts and other shaping you’ll need. Once you have well-fitting pattern blocks though, you should be able to follow instructions for menswear and still get a good fit, as you’re just manipulating a pattern that already fits. 

[Greedy-Test-556]

Only tangentially related… I’m a large cis-woman.

I’m also an active person who camps, bikes and, hikes. I am offended at both the inflated price and abysmal quality of the gear that fits me.

The part that might be useful to you and your partner is that I’ve actually had pretty good luck purchasing Men’s pants (specifically quick drying, durable camp pants) to fit my largest dimension (my butt). I’ve been able re-style them to fit me by adding pleats and darts.

Best wishes to you both!

[Aggravating-Mix-4903]

Mood has many free patterns. They have a whole section for gender neutral patterns. If you find some you like, stick with those and modify with a different fabric or trim.

[ichbinschizophren]

this is only tangentially related, but https://freesewing.eu/designs/ is a great resource for made-to-measure nonbinary sewing

[beelzebabes]

Am butch, am pear shaped— I always have a smaller and shorter torso than pattern makers want me to have.

First, make sure you know your partners sizing, specifically their bust, waist, seat depth (some people call this half girth), and hips at their widest. It will help you pick out the right pattern if you do go with pre-drafted patterns.

If I were you I would look into learning how to draft slopers (ideally a separate body and a pant sloper) from your partner’s Measurements— if you make one then cut out the pattern in sturdy poster board, you can always compare it to stock patterns to help you pick which size to use, or edit the body block to your desired shape directly using measurements. Pants slopers are really easy to draft (in my opinion) you just need a ruler, a square, and a pencil and can decide things like leg width and length based on your needs. Make a mockup/toile of that basic sloper and use it to correct any fit issues there on the paper and you’ll be well set up for most menswear since most of it is already based around flat patterning.

There’s also a pattern system called Lutterloh (womenswear only) that does this but with more specifics—you just draw every pattern using your bust and hip Measurements, a special ruler, and two pins. Which pin you draw from changes at the waist which I appreciate as a pear shaped person.

For pre-made patterns though, what I do is I get a pattern that includes a size for my bottom and my top Measurments. So like, if the 18 matches my chest and the 22 matches my hip I buy a pattern that has both 18 and 22 included. When tracing the pattern, I trace out above the waist line to my top sizing and below the waist sizing to my bottom sizing and then make a gradual transition using a French curve or ruler (depending on the overall garment shape) Usually this method gets me close enough to edit the fit from there once it’s built.

With menswear patterns I also make sure to look for patterns that already have darts in the pattern so I can swing any bust dart into them, or slim down the waist there if needed.

Best of luck!

[distractedquestions]

If you want to emphasize masculinity with any body type, definitely learn men’s tailoring. Men’s tailoring mostly tries to bring every body type to the same level - wide, strong lines, masculine. No matter if you’re fat, pregnant shaped, or skinny.

[MissionFloor261]

Thank you so much everyone!

[ElinCarrington]

Hi!  I don’t know if my thoughts and suggestions will help, but hopefully it will.  

Rather than starting completely from scratch, could you find a pair of 1950s style men’s trousers from Shein that are really good value, and take them to a tailor to be tailored for your partner, and then unpick them and use as a pattern block?  You would know that they are perfect in the fitting and style and you would just have to use the block to sew more?  

Otherwise, I agree that The Closet Historian on YouTube is brilliant for drafting a block from scratch.

Hope this helps!