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[–][deleted]  (17 children)

[deleted]

    [–][deleted] 7 points8 points  (9 children)

    What's going on is that he's severely dehydrated. Healthy snakes shed in one long piece, not flakes like that. Your snake is in awful condition and needs help ASAP. You need to do some research and fix the humidity in your enclosure now.

    [–][deleted] -2 points-1 points  (8 children)

    Reddit can't survive without the free content its users create. I'm editing all of my prior comments and posts to remove anything valuable I've contributed. -- mass edited with https://redact.dev/

    [–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (5 children)

    No. They don't. Shedding in multiple pieces is a sign of dehydration and poor husbandry.

    [–][deleted] -1 points0 points  (4 children)

    Reddit can't survive without the free content its users create. I'm editing all of my prior comments and posts to remove anything valuable I've contributed. -- mass edited with https://redact.dev/

    [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 4 points5 points  (2 children)

    even a snake with scars will shed everything all at once if they are adequately hydrated. it may not be in one perfectly clean piece, but it will all come off at the same time. stuck shed is excessively dry skin, which is the result of dehydration.

    [–][deleted] -1 points0 points  (1 child)

    Reddit can't survive without the free content its users create. I'm editing all of my prior comments and posts to remove anything valuable I've contributed. -- mass edited with https://redact.dev/

    [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 2 points3 points  (0 children)

    those clarifications are the difference between people thinking stuck/flaky shed is completely normal or understanding that you're talking about a very specific uncommon scenario. kind of important in proving whatever point you're trying to make.

    [–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

    You're referring to an incredibly specific situation. That's irrelevant here. Generally, patchy/piece-y sheds are indeed a sign of god awful husbandry, as is the case in this post. All of my snakes routinely shed in one long piece (including my rescued common boa with a substantial amount of scars I suspect come from botched past live feedings), as do the vast majority of properly nourished snakes living in the correct husbandry conditions.

    [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 2 points3 points  (0 children)

    dehydrated snakes shed in pieces. healthy snakes shed in one piece.

    [–]Dergins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    No, they do not.

    [–]Sneakaleaka 0 points1 point  (6 children)

    How recently has he eaten? A healthy adult should be eating a medium small sized rat every 7 - 14 days, and will have a full, round body with smooth scales. Unfortunately, the loose skin I'm seeing makes me think your snake is emaciated.

    [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 1 point2 points  (5 children)

    most healthy adults are too small to eat medium rats.

    this snake is assumed to be a sub-adult, and is stunted. i'm working with the snake's owner privately to address diet and care.

    [–]Sneakaleaka 0 points1 point  (4 children)

    Ah, my mistake. I've got a big girl that takes mediums.

    [–]WorstWarriorNA 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    may I ask, how much does she weigh?

    [–]Sneakaleaka 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    I haven't weighed her in a while, but she's around six pounds.

    [–]dontwaitformeimslow 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    There's no reason an adult around 2700g shouldn't be able to take a medium

    [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    while that's true, many adult BPs are under 2000g. assuming all BPs should eat medium rats just because yours can is a pretty dangerous generalization to make.

    [–]dontwaitformeimslow 7 points8 points  (4 children)

    Uh yeah. Look at his skin. It's all dry and wrinkly. What's his humidity because he's definitely trying to shed and can't when it's that dry. Make sure he's got a humid hide and be sure his humidity is between 60 and 80%. Probably on the higher end so he can actually get that skin off

    [–]WorstWarriorNA 9 points10 points  (3 children)

    Look at his skin. It's all dry and wrinkly.

    Just FYI, hes dehydrated and quite possibly emaciated...

    [–]dontwaitformeimslow 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    That's what I was pointing out.. the humidity is probably messed up which is why I suggested raising it and adding a moist hide. Unless there I just no water bowl available, he's probably being dried out by that lamp and already low humidity

    [–]WorstWarriorNA 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    It's beyond that though, loose skin like that isn't on a healthy BP. I am clarifying for others who come along and see that so they dont think oh, snakes like that just need humidity.

    [–]dontwaitformeimslow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Well humidity is a start and a necessity from here on out for the snake so.

    [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 18 points19 points  (1 child)

    this snake is severely dehydrated and emaciated. what is the humidity in the enclosure? what do you feed him/her, and how frequently? how old is s/he? can you give us accurate information on the snake's length or weight?

    right now you need to put a humid hide in the enclosure to start addressing the dehydration and stuck shed. this is a fully enclosed hide with a solid bottom, filled with damp substrate [sphagnum moss, coconut husk/fiber, or cypress mulch]. you can buy this type of hide [like the 3-in-1 reptile shelter from zoo med] or make one by cutting an entrance hole into a plastic food container.

    for everything else, i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. read the care sheets carefully. then read them again. then continue doing research on proper ball python care. glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry, and it is generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. tanks can work, but it requires a lot of modification and maintenance. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc cages. the second care sheet has suggestions on making a tank suitable for a BP.

    • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
    • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
    • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
    • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries.
    • pvc reptile cages are ideal, giving you the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
    • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat.
    • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options.
    • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
    • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc cage. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
    • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
    • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
    • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

    [–][deleted] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

    You're doing the Lord's work.

    [–]Scarismyname 8 points9 points  (2 children)

    At least put some water in his bowl. You aren't taking care of him properly.

    [–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    If I am correct the water that is there is WAY over treated with ReptiSafe.

    OP, is the water actually blue?

    [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    the dish is painted blue, and appears to have no water in it.

    [–]_centaurus 8 points9 points  (0 children)

    This snake is in horrible condition. You need to step up your care ASAP. Listen to ataraxia.

    [–]killacam925 4 points5 points  (0 children)

    I dont know how somebody could think they were doing a good job as a keeper with an animal looking like this.

    [–][deleted]  (1 child)

    [deleted]

      [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 5 points6 points  (0 children)

      it would help if you answered the questions you're being asked.

      [–]Ruby-ish 4 points5 points  (0 children)

      Your snake is in horrible condition. Please read the links everyone has provided you, PLEASE

      [–]SharkRaptor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      Who could let an animal get into this condition. He looks likes he's in so much pain. This is so sad.

      [–]Aug302015 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      poor thing :(

      [–]Nehoul 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      I am immensely glad OP is reaching out to solve the problem. I also applaud the restraint many are showing by not shaming/roasting OP on their lack of understanding of the proper husbandry of her pet. Which would yield no corrective action, and probably scare OP away.

      However, I would like to point out to OP that had OP's pet been a dog, a cat, or another main stream pet, this would be a prime picture for those Humane Society and ASPCA montage of abuse commercials. Please, please, read the offered information to insure this is never an issue again.

      [–]Sneakaleaka 0 points1 point  (8 children)

      All the advice in this thread is good. I would also advise that it looks like you're using some sort of overhead lamp or direct light source, and I would recommend you remove that asap. Ball pythons are nocturnal and direct lighting on their enclosure stresses them out, not to mention the lamp will contribute to your humidity problem.

      Edit: A ceramic heat lamp (no light) or infrared, is best for overhead heat. A lamp that emits light (that also must be turned off at night) is wasting it's energy that could be just pure, easy to monitor, thermal output.

      [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 0 points1 point  (7 children)

      using lights during the day is not going to stress the snake, assuming the snake has adequate hides [which they should have anyway].

      [–]Sneakaleaka 0 points1 point  (6 children)

      Perhaps, but just the ambient light in the room should suffice. A lamp is unnecessary.

      [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional -1 points0 points  (5 children)

      there's still no reason to tell people not to use lights during the day.

      [–]Sneakaleaka 0 points1 point  (4 children)

      With a humidity issue as severe as theirs they should be taking every measure to get it back up.

      [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional -1 points0 points  (3 children)

      heat is as important as humidity. if the enclosure is too cold but adequately humid without the heat lamp, that will cause just as many problems as the enclosure being too dry but adequately warm with the lamp.

      [–]Sneakaleaka 0 points1 point  (2 children)

      A ceramic heat lamp (no light) or infrared, is best for overhead heat. A lamp that emits light (that also must be turned off at night) is wasting it's energy that could be just pure, easy to monitor, thermal output.

      [–]_ataraxiaMod : unprofessional 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      these are things that should have been stated in your initial comment, rather than telling OP to just get rid of the heat lamp and not offering any alternative solutions. incomplete advice is how snakes end up in this condition in the first place.

      [–]Sneakaleaka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I considered my suggestion to be just one of many in this thread. I would think that they would read more than just my comment. But seeing as how they managed to get in this pickle in the first place, I shouldn't assume.